Lone Star Wine Shines Bright As Texas Earns Growing Acclaim

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Texas wine is an immense topic. That’s not surprising, considering the state of Texas is larger than France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, or Germany. I recently had the opportunity to delve deeply into Texas wine during the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association's annual conference, held in Lafayette, Louisiana. I participated in a pre-conference Texas Wine Ambassador certification class and then assisted with a Texas winemaker panel and tasting.

Texas winemakers aim for a refreshing style of wine, said Kelsey Kramer, DipSET, the education director for the Hill Country Wine Academy, who conducted the certification class. Grapes are typically harvested early to retain acidity and avoid exposure to high heat and other extreme weather conditions. 

The early harvest, sometimes four months earlier than other regions, and the warm-plus (don’t call it “hot”) climate define a Texas style with big flavors, with a soft and opulent texture. Wine lovers will discover wines that are fruitier, lighter in tannins, and high in minerality. Herbaceousness is another Texas calling card.

The Lone Star State is a mosaic of more than 1,300 soil types spread across 11 degrees of latitude (France has 10), five different climate zones, and elevations that range from sea level to 8,751 feet. 

There are about 3,700 named rivers and streams in Texas, with about 15 major river basins. Grapes from different river basins result in strikingly different-tasting wine. Rivers like the Brazos and Colorado carve through limestone and clay, shaping soils that give Hill Country wines their bold character. Texas was once completely underwater, with marine influence and sea sediments creating layered sedimentary rock across the state. 

As a result, Texas wines focus on regionality. That’s the reason more than 70 grape varieties are grown in the state’s eight AVAs. While the familiar Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted grape in the state, the second most popular is Tempranillo. The most planted white grape is Blanc de Bois, the unofficial signature grape of the state. It is a hybrid grape prized for its resistance to Pierce’s Disease and its adaptability to hot, humid climates. Pierce’s Disease is a bacterium that is spread by sap-feeding insects, and grapevines are especially vulnerable.

The Texas High Plains AVA has a cold semi-arid climate and is located on a large flat plateau in an area once called the “Great American Desert.” No indigenous grapes were planted there in the early days, and it is considered disease-free. That’s a good thing, since 80% of Texas wine grapes are grown there. It is the “engine room” of the Texas wine industry.

We tasted six wines, including some from Texas High Plains, and three from areas currently in the review process to gain AVA status.

2024 Grower Project Picpoul, Texas High Plains – This historic French grape, whose name means “lip stinger,” has found a home in Texas. This wine is pale in color with mouth-watering acidity, with flavors of apricot and lemon zest. 

2024 La Valentìa Chenin Blanc, Dell Valley – Pale gold in the glass, it’s made with 40-year-old vines and is aged for six months in neutral oak. Soft texture and subtle flavors of lychee and Meyer lemon.

2019 William Chris Mourvèdre, Texas High Plains – One of my favorites in the tasting. Red brick in color, it is herbaceous with delicate flavors of red fruit, sage, and mint.

2023 William Chris Sangiovese, Texas High Plains – I found the ABV a little too hot at 14.6%, but others praised its voluptuous taste and termed it a boisterous wine.

2020 William Chris Blackmon Ranch Blend, Hickory Sands District – This is a 56-44 Merlot/Malbec blend from the Llano Uplift AVA and specifically the Hickory Sands area, which will soon become its own AVA. It has rich cherry fruit with cola notes and a focused mineral edge.

2020 William Chris Tannat, Pedernales River Basin – A bold wine with flavors of plum, black currant, and dried herbs. The Pedernales River Basin is known for its limestone-rich soils, which add freshness to the wines.

At the conclusion of the day-long session, I was proud to receive the lapel pin as an officially certified Texas Wine Ambassador.

Texas wine kept flowing during the IFWTWA conference during a standout wine panel and tasting that explored the Texas Hill Country and Texas High Plains wine regions. The panel was organized by IFWTWA Vice President Andy Harris and moderated by our new friend Kelsey Kramer.

The panel of all-stars included:

• Kim McPherson of McPherson Cellars, a second-generation winemaker and a pioneer of Texas winemaking.

• Nikhila Narra Davis of Kalasi Cellars, a winery known for its bold wines and South Indian inspiration.

• Jon McPherson of Carter Creek Winery & Resort, a luxury retreat in Texas Hill Country. He is the brother of Kim and also a second-generation winemaker.

• Katy Jane Seaton of Farmhouse Vineyards, a family-owned grape grower and boutique wine producer. They provide grapes to more than 20 Texas wineries, and their own wines often feature Rhône and Italian varieties with a Texas twist.

1. Carter Creek Sparkling Tempranillo Rosé 

2. 2022 McPherson Cellars Moore Family Vineyards Tokio Block Tempranillo 

3. 2022 Farmhouse Vineyards “The Vault”

4. 2022 Kalasi Cellars “Kanchi”

Kim and Jon McPherson are key figures in Texas wine, continuing the legacy of their father, Doc McPherson, a pioneer of Texas viticulture and founder of one of Texas’s earliest modern wineries.

Kim founded McPherson Cellars in Lubbock, focusing on grape varieties that thrive in the Texas High Plains, such as Sangiovese, Mourvèdre, and Viognier. Jon moved to California in 1985 and became a winemaker at Culbertson Winery, focusing on sparkling wine. He is now the winemaker at Carter Creek Winery Resort & Spa in the Texas Hill Country, bringing his rich experience back to Texas.

The Carter Creek sparkling Tempranillo is crisp and dry with notes of red berries and a frothy effervescence. Following on was the McPherson Cellars Tokio Block Tempranillo, crafted from a block near Tokio, a tiny town in the High Plains known for its sandy loam soils and its elevation. It has notes of raspberry with subtle oak and accents of leather.

The Farmhouse Vineyards “The Vault” is a delicious blend of 50% 2020 Mourvèdre and 50% 2019 Montepulciano. This wine was one of my favorites from my Texas wine tasting in Louisiana. It is distinctly Texan with plum and cocoa flavors wrapped in a savory package.

Kalasi Cellars "Kanchi" is a red wine blend made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 8. Flavors of black cherry and plum lead in this elegant wine. The tannins are supple, and mocha flavors linger in the finish.

The IFWTWA was a delightful detour into the world of Texas wine. Texas winemakers also poured wines in the hospitality suite. It was there I imbibed a memorable wine: McPherson Cellars 2021 Sagmor Vineyard Sangiovese. This is undoubtedly the best Texas Sangiovese I have ever tasted.

Sagmor Vineyard was planted in 1967 by Doc McPherson and his Texas Tech colleague Robert Reed. It was one of the first commercial vineyards in the state. The Sangiovese is a flagship bottling for McPherson, with very limited quantities (in 2021, only 224 cases were produced).

It features cherry and berry flavors with accents of vanilla and spice. The balance between acid and tannins is perfection itself. It is savory, with understated oak notes delivered in a dry wine with a medium body. Leather and mushroom notes contribute to the layered enjoyment. 

Texas wine is a dynamic, evolving force shaped by geology, grit, and generations of visionaries. From the limestone river basins to the windswept High Plains, each bottle tells a story of perseverance and passion. As a newly minted Texas Wine Ambassador, I’m honored to help share that story. Texas invites you to taste beyond the expected—and discover a wine world as vast as the state itself.