The Princely Wines of Liechtenstein Offer Elegance and Freshness

The Hofkellerei, or princely winery, of the Prince of Liechtenstein produces distinctive Alpine wines of the highest quality. Here’s what they taste like.

Schloss Vaduz

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Princely Wines From The Smallest Wine-Producing Country

Liechtenstein is a landlocked country of approximately 62 square miles and 40,000 citizens. It boasts one of the lowest crime rates in the world and zero national debt. It’s a principality and its current ruler is Prince Hans-Albert II. It’s also the world’s smallest wine-producing country.

Of special interest to us are the wineries of the prince. Princely Wines are produced from two vineyards, one in Austria and one in Liechtenstein. The family name stems from the Liechtenstein Castle located just south of Vienna,  Austria. The noble line dates back to the 12th century.

The lineage is steeped in history. To gain a seat in the Holy Roman Empire’s assembly, they had to own land under the emperor’s authority. They purchased the Lordships of Schellenberg and Vaduz in the early 18th century, which became part of the principality. 

Mountains And Microclimate Equal An Esteemed Vineyard

In Vaduz, the Herawingert vineyard and the winery became property of the princely house. Today, it is the most esteemed and important vineyard in Liechtenstein. It is considered the center of winegrowing in the country and is one of the best sites in the Rhine River Valley.

Harvest at Herawingert

The southwesterly exposure, mild climate, and soils rich in limestone and slate are ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The unique microclimate is created by the surrounding 6,500-foot mountains and the Föhn winds: warm, dry downward-sloping winds that occur on the leeward side of the Alps. Vines are more than 40 years old and are cultivated by hand.

Today, the estate features restaurant Torkel, a Michelin-starred establishment situated in a medieval building that was once used for the vinification of princely grapes.

Harvest work at Hofkellerei Liechtenstein Wilfersdorf

The princely winery in Wilfersdorf, Austria, has been in the princely family since the 15th century. The family’s ancestral seat, Palace Wilferdorf, and the Karlsberg and Johannesbergen vineyards are located in northeastern Niederösterreich. White cuvees, Rieslings, Grüner Veltliner, and concentrated reds age slowly in centuries-old vaulted aging cellars on the estate.

The area has a Pannonian climate, a type of Continental climate that features hot summers, cold winters, moderate rainfall, and low humidity. The climate, along with loess soils with dissolved limestone, allows the production of distinctive cool-climate wines. 

Winery Managing Director Stefan Tscheppe

Since 2018, Stefan Tscheppe has been directing the wineries in Liechtenstein and Austria, as well as the Torkel. He has a strong reputation for the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Vaduz as well as the Rieslings, Grüner Veltliner, and white blends grown in Austria. 

Growing up at the 90-acre winery of his family in Southern Styria, Austria, he started with high-end Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay at an early age, before moving to California in 2005 and running Perry Creek winery in the Sierra Foothills. He returned to Austria in  2012 and took over as director of the Esterhazy wineries in Burgenland and Hungary.

Sipping Princely Wines

We had the opportunity to taste three princely wines:

Reid Karlsberg 2021 Cuvée – A complex blend of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, it ripples with citrus fruit and floral notes. Its Alpine nature is evident in the flinty minerality and stone fruit. The wine uses wild fermentation, and a portion is aged on the lees. The grapes are from old vines grown in sparse and silty soil high in limestone content. For me, this was an eye-opening experience. I didn’t know Riesling and Grüner were capable of such a multi-dimensional expression of the terroir.

Herrnbaumgarten 2022 Cuvée – A blend of half Riesling and Grüner, this is a lucious wine with the aroma of tropical fruit. On the palate, it’s juicy with white peach and honeysuckle. This is a lighter expression of the blend, wrapped in a salty minerality. On a hot humid day, this is a welcome reprieve.

Ried Herawingert 2020 Pinot Noir – Herawingert has been one of the most important vineyards in the Rhine River Valley for 1,000 years. The vines grow at the foot of a mountain range, on a mix of slate and limestone soil. True to its Alpine heritage, the wine offers austere notes of smoky black cherry and a precise and stony palate. There are deep notes of dried fruit, cocoa, and subtle strawberry. The old vines give this Pinot a character to savor. 

These wines are indeed fit for a prince, but you are invited to enjoy them as well. If they are not stocked at your fine wine store, try Archetyp in Portland, which specializes in Alpine wines and spirits.

Vineyard and castle photos courtesy of Princely Wines of Liechtenstein.

Exploring The Delights Of Panama City, Panama

Panama City at sunset

Article and Photos By Dave Nershi, CSW

Panama City is the gateway between the eastern and western hemispheres. It is a modern city bristling with skyscrapers. There are plentiful attractions, including, of course, the engineering wonder of the Panama Canal.  Here are four highlights from our recent visit.

Rooftop Dining In Panama City

Panama City is also a UNESCO Creative City in Gastronomy. One of the best ways to enjoy the tropical delights of Panama City is from one of the many rooftop bars and restaurants in Casco Viejo, Old Town.

Lazotea is a trendy restaurant focused on Latin American cuisine and drinks with an amazing view of the Panama City skyline. The person behind the restaurant is Jorge Rausch, a Colombian chef of Polish and Austrian descent. His Bogotá restaurant Criterión has been named Colombia's best restaurant three times. We arrived early to take in the sunset and the scene as day transformed into night. 

We savored a glass of bubbly as the sun sank, painting the pink sky. As we delved into our entrees, the glittering lights of Panama City began to shine. I enjoyed L'Ancienne Grouper, a grouper fillet cooked in hazelnut butter, bacon, paipin, caramelized shallots, Beurre Blanc sauce, and chicken jus. This was paired with Albarino, while my wife enjoyed a prawn dish with a delicious sauce.

Guided Jungle Adventure with Gatun Lake Cruise

We explored the Panamanian jungle on a guided tour that started at the Gamboa Rainforest Preserve and embarked on a boat trip across Gatun Lake. Gatun Lake is a crucial part of the Panama Canal. It’s a massive artificial lake that helps ships cross the 21-mile distance of the Isthmus of Panama. The lake provides the water needed to operate the canal's locks and also serves as a drinking water source for Panama City. We enjoyed seeing the massive cargo ships headed for the locks. They dwarfed our small motorboat.

During our lake voyage, we could visit the famous Monkey Islands, where we could view several different types of monkeys: White-Faced Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, and Geoffroy’s Tamarin Monkeys. The curious Capuchin monkeys approached our boats, and some sat on the railing, allowing us to observe them at a close distance.

We then hiked through the lush Soberania National Park. Walking along the Pipeline Road, which follows an old fuel pipeline built during World War II, we were surrounded by natural beauty and were able to spot a sloth and a Crimson-crested woodpecker.

Sunny San Blas Islands

The San Blas Islands are some of the world's most remote and pristine islands. More than 350 islands are in the archipelago off Panama's Caribbean coast. Only 49 islands are inhabited, and many are barely big enough for more than one palm tree. We wondered why we needed to bring our passports for this excursion, then we learned that we would be entering the Guna Yala comarca, an autonomous territory governed by the Guna people, who have kept their culture and rich traditions alive.

The islands feature white sand beaches untouched by commercialism. It’s a remote and peaceful place. We saw at least eight shades of blue gazing across the tropical waters as the wind rustled the palm tree leaves.

Natural Beauty of Anton Valley

El Valle de Antón is nestled in the bowl of an extinct volcano and is rich in the untouched splendor of nature. At nearly 2,000 feet in elevation, the area is cooler than the lower parts of Panama. It is home to more than 500 species of birds. The area is one of the last habitats of the critically endangered Panamanian golden frog.

We stopped at the Sunday Market (it’s open seven days a week) on Avenida Central before heading to El Chorro Macho. El Chorro Macho is a 115-foot waterfall surrounded by dense rainforest. There are hiking trails that offer spectacular views. After we worked up a sweat (not hard in a Panamanian rainforest!) I took a plunge into a natural pool fed by the waterfall.

Following our hike, we visited the Butterfly Haven, a sanctuary that features 21 different species. Anton Valley boasts more than 450. The butterflies were different than those we have seen in butterfly houses in the States. One of the fascinating species is the Owl Eye Butterfly, found in Central and South America, especially in rainforests. The markings on its wings mimic large animal eyes to frighten away predators. We were also blessed with an abundance of Blue Morpho butterflies, a species not found in North America.

The Butterfly Haven has a video and displays to explain the lifecycle of the butterfly. The highlight is the flight room, with host and nectar plants and butterflies soaring.

H2O Captain Eco-Tours An Aquatic Highlight On North Carolina's Crystal Coast

Mark Sonder - The H2O Captain

A private eco-tour is the best way to see the sights of North Carolina's Crystal Coast.

Once, you could hear the tones of  Mark Sonder’s French horn on Broadway or at Radio City Music Hall. A native of New York City known for his symphony work, his job these days has quite a different rhythm.  “I followed my dad’s advice,” he said. “If you do the thing you love, it’s not work.” As a licensed captain, he now rides the waves of North Carolina’s Crystal Coast as the owner of a boutique charter boat company, H20 Captain Eco-Tours.

 When COVID left him out of his corporate job, he and his wife looked south. They visited North Carolina’s Emerald Isle. At first, it was for a week, then it was for a month. Hooked on the beauty of the area and its coastal charm, they then bought a house. He had to figure something out for employment. Since he had a captain’s license, he launched H2O Captain Eco-Tours.

A Unique Experience On The Water

There is no shortage of ferries and sightseeing cruises in the area, but Captain Mark offers something very different. Instead of piling on a ferry with a gaggle of tourists, H2O offers a tailored experience for visitors to the Crystal Coast, Emerald Isle, Atlantic Beach, Swansboro, and Beaufort, NC. The private tours are limited to six passengers. 

The featured boat is a Carolina Skiff Ultra Elite 21, fully cushioned for passenger comfort. A shallow draft on the boat allows it to approach the shoreline so passengers can head ashore to go shelling or enjoy birds and wildlife. The Cape Lookout National Seashore features Shackelford Banks, known for its wild horses and natural beauty. It’s a popular destination for H2O guests. Captain Mark is an authorized tour guide for the National Park Service.  

North Carolina's Wild Horses Roaming Free

A highlight of our recent visit to the Crystal Coast was a private boat excursion with H2O Captain Eco-Tours. For more than two and a half hours, we cruised the waters of the Southern Outer Banks, seeing the waterfront towns of Moorehead City and Beaufort and the wild horses of Shackleford Banks and Rachel Carson Reserve. A popular feature of many excursions is hiking on Shackleford and viewing the horses up close.

The affable Captain Mark delivered entertainment and education as he piloted his Carolina Skiff through the dappled waters. This is a unique experience with your own private captain. Captain Mark is a US Coast Guard Auxiliary member. He took us up close to US Coast Guard Station Fort Macon, which is responsible for maritime safety and rescue operations along the Crystal Coast and surrounding waters.  

Captain Mark serves on the Habitat & Water Quality Advisory Committee to the NC Marine Fisheries Commission. He has a fondness for fish and wildlife. His boat was formerly used for fishing. As a vegan, he doesn’t offer fishing charters. Of course, wildlife, specifically wild horses, is a main attraction for people coming to the region.

The wild horses on Shackleford Banks are descendants of Spanish mustangs brought here by Spanish explorers as early as the 1520s. The horses at the Rachel Carson Reserve were brought to the site by a resident and eventually became wild. They embody the spirit of freedom. Captain Mark knows where to go, and his craft can get closer to Shackleford Banks than larger vessels. H2O Captain is also a popular choice for shelling excursions.

H2O Captain Eco-Tours is based at the Coral Bay Marina in Moorehead City. You can arrange your excursion here. This was convenient for us as we stayed in Beaufort (not to be confused with the Beaufort in South Carolina). Our lodging was the delightful Inlet Inn. Our second-floor king with a balcony was perfect for us. It was just steps from the water and the shops and restaurants that line Front Street.

Beaufort and the Crystal Coast: A Perfect Destination

Inlet Inn is charming and offers a complimentary breakfast delivered to your room. From our balcony, we could watch boats pull in and out of the dock. Bring a pair of binoculars, because we were able to view wild horses on Carrot Island as we sat in our rocking chairs on our balcony. Inlet Inn is an ideal location for a Beaufort getaway.

A two-minute walk from Inlet Inn is Aqua, a restaurant featuring delicious small plates, a wide selection of premium wines, and craft cocktails. It has an artsy yet intimate vibe. Our Certified Angus Beef petite filet small plates were sumptuous. The meat melts in your mouth, and the presentation was delightful. The Aqua wine list is quite extensive.

Head to the Crystal Coast for an afternoon of watery adventure with H2O Captain Eco-Tours. At less than 150 miles from Raleigh, it's perfect for a weekend trip.

A Different Harvest: A Winemaker Buds In Michigan

A Different Harvest wine tasting with Josh Kessler, left, and partner Chuck Bierman, right.

What’s it take to leap from winemaking hobbyist to running your own vineyard? We catch up with a friend who is an IT manager for a health care system for his day job, but is pursuing his winemaking dream.

A Different Harvest red blend

From Backyard Vines To Micro-Winery

Josh Kessler is a friend from our old stomping grounds in Northwest Ohio. Before we relocated from the Toledo area to North Carolina, Josh, who resides with his wife, Casey, in Swanton, Ohio, was part of our blog tasting team. Josh would contribute articles from his winery visits to Michigan, and we’d gather with friends to raise a glass and empty some bottles.

During one visit, Josh took me behind his house to show off his vines of Riesling. He liked to make wine and wanted to grow his own grapes. During one Open That Bottle Night, we sampled Kessler Cellars Cherry Port.

Recently, Josh sent me a couple of bottles from A Different Harvest, his micro-winery. We had a chance to sample his red blend and a single varietal Marquette. The blend includes DeChaunac, Frontenac, and smaller amounts of Chelois, Foch, 

and Chancellor. We enjoyed the silky texture and tart cherry flavors. The Marquette is for those who enjoy a bolder taste and fuller body. 

“When my wife and I were dating, she invited me to her family’s annual vacation on the western Michigan lakeshore," said Josh. “One rainy day in 2008, we were looking for something to do and happened upon a nearby winery. 

A Corner Lot Grows Vines

“This left us yearning to try more and more wines. I had an instant love for wine, so naturally, I wanted to know more about how it is produced. I read countless books and magazines. It didn’t take long to place my first mail order for the types of grapes I wanted to grow in my small backyard in the city.”

Years later, Josh met someone at the gym who farms in Michigan. “As we got to know one another, I took him some of my wine and jokingly mentioned that if he had a corner lot where I could put some vines in the ground, to let me know,” said Josh. The next winter, we are having a conversation in the locker room, and he says, “Do you want to grow some grapes?”

"Of course, I said, Yes!' " Two acres were planted to start, then another two. Today, there are 2,400 vines. 

The first wine he made was a blueberry wine with fruit from the annual vacation spot. Even before his skills improved, this was everyone’s favorite bottle. Friends and family continue to request it. Josh’s family has grown (he and Casey now have two daughters), and his winemaking operation and skill have certainly grown, too.

From Small Beginnings

His business partner is Chuck Bierman, a multi-generational farmer. His son Shane is also part of the endeavor. Currently, Josh has dedicated space on Chuck’s property. This includes tanks ranging from 10-125 gallons, a crusher/destemmer, a press, bottling equipment, a cooler, and more. There is a building that will be converted into a production and tasting area.

The size of the operation is very small, with approximately 100 cases annually from their estate vineyard. Plans include sourcing more grapes from other growers in Michigan. 

Right now, the wine is only made for family and friends. In the next year or two, Josh plans to be selling the wine in Michigan, not far from downtown Sylvania, Ohio. 

He grows mainly French-American and other non-specific hybrids. The emphasis is on being cold-hardy. Chambourcin is among the grapes he grows. Reds, whites, rosé, and wines of varying sweetness have all been made from his grapes.

He is most proud of his Marquette. Says Josh, “Dry red wines are what I enjoy most, and Marquette seems to bear the closest resemblance to a vinifera wine.”

Winemaking Life Has Its Rewards

Challenges have come along the way. “I made the common amateur mistake of planting too many varieties rather than concentrating on a few," he said. "Working with several smaller lots, however, has allowed me to experiment with many different styles and blends."

The annual task of pruning is demanding, taking 80 or more hours a year. Some people can lend a hand, but pruning requires skill that is not easily learned. So the burden falls on Josh, who has to make it happen in a relatively short window while maintaining a full-time day job. That hard work is worth it, though.

"Tasting the end result of countless hours of labor growing your own fruit is very rewarding," said Josh. "We can control many aspects of the grape quality that you can't when buying them from someone else."

Stinson Vineyard Wines Deliver Mountains of Flavor

We taste three wines from Virginia’s award-winning garagiste winery.

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Stinson Vineyards: From Garage to Gold Medals

Stinson Vineyards is nestled in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains and is in one of our favorite wine regions, the Monticello AVA. They specialize in small lot, garagiste wines with a distinct French influence. The husband and wife team of Nathan Vrooman and Rachel Stinson craft the wines, which are garnering growing acclaim, including three gold medals at the recent Virginia Governor’s Cup awards.

Stinson Vineyard wines

Garagiste wines are so named after intrepid winemakers in Bordeaux who had lots of passion, but little money, and who made their wines in unconventional settings. Stinson’s winery is built into an old three-car garage – but their wines are as smooth and silky as the latest Jaguar concept car.

The Monticello AVA is located near Charlottesville and Thomas Jefferson’s famous home. Jefferson believed that the United States could produce fine wine that equaled Europe. He experimented with growing different grapevines on his estate. Although he never saw that come to pass, some would say that winemakers in the Monticello AVA have fulfilled his vision.

We recently had the opportunity to taste three Stinson wines: 2023 Rosé of Tannat, 2023 Cabernet Franc, and 2021 Meritage. The Cab Franc was a gold medal winner at the Governor’s Cup competition.

The Stinson rosé helped me out of a jam at a recent party. We were celebrating Mardi Gras and had a crowd over for the occasion. The menu included crawfish etouffee, crab cakes, gumbo, and jambalaya. That’s a lot of spice, making wine pairing a tricky proposition.

Stinson 2023 Rosé of Tannat

Rosé To The Rescue

I selected a California sparkler, a South African Viognier, and the beautiful Stinson Tannat rosé. Tannat is a super tannic grape, but Stinson has used it to make a delicate and fruity rosé. That fruit played nicely with the variety of spicy food. The wine is crisp and the aging sur lie in stainless steel adds complexity. Notes of lime and tropical fruit make this a winner. Priced at $25.

It’s no wonder the Virginia Governor’s Cup judges selected the Stinson 2023 Cabernet Franc as a gold medal winner. I popped this open with my good friend and sommelier Arthur Barham, who hosted the tasting. He and I have tasted a lot of Cab Franc, from all around the country and the world. This one pushed all the right buttons.

This is a flavorful wine full of brambly blackberries and savory notes. It is whole-berry fermented, which adds an elegant depth. It is rich, with cooking spice notes complementing the fruit flavors. Six months in French oak (20% new) adds just the right finish. This will only improve over the next three to four years. SRP is $33.

A Mighty Meritage Wine

Stinson 2023 Cabernet Franc

Meritage is America’s answer to Bordeaux blends. The term is regulated and is reserved for a winery's best red blend (white Meritage also exists). We love this style of wine, and the 2021 Stinson Meritage displays the power and structure of the best red grapes in the Monticello AVA.

It is a blend of 50% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot, and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. With a Merlot focus, I expected a softer wine – but this one comes out swinging for the fences. It has 14.5% ABV and is aged for 18 months in French oak (30% new). 

Following a devastating frost in May of 2020, 2021 was a bounceback year. The Bordeaux varieties responded well with pristine fruit showing powerful acidity and pure flavors. 

The flavors pop with deep plum, blackberry, and currant notes. The tannic backbone and acidity make this a blockbuster that needs some time to open up. After swirling and sipping, warm leather notes and toasty oak enhance the enjoyment.

This vintage should shine in another year or two and drink well for five. If you are like me, and just can’t wait, I’d suggest a good hour of decanting. Only 350 cases were produced with an SRP of $41.

In addition to the tasting room in Crozet, Virginia, overnight guests are welcomed at the Inn at Stinson Vineyards. Guests can enjoy a special Wine Cellar Dinner with a four-course tasting menu, use the self-serve wine bar, or walk through the vines to the tasting room. The scenery in the area is spectacular and well worth the trip. To order wines or to get more information on the Inn at Stinson Vineyards, visit the website. 

Vintage Venice Dinner Unearths Classic Wines, New Favorites

Treasures from the cellar are matched with artisan cuisine in our Floridian wine dinner.

Vintage Wines In Venice (Florida)

Our recent visit to Venice, Florida, provided a unique opportunity to dig into a vintage wine collection. We were visiting my brother-in-law and wife (Buddy and Sandra) and were enlisted to help honcho a wine dinner featuring neighbors Bob and Michelle’s wine collection.

Bob had purchased a large wine collection. While a few of the wines were past their drinking window, some had aged beautifully. We carefully tasted through many bottles to select just the right ones and create the menu for the celebratory meal.

Guests included: Buddy and Sandra (our gracious hosts), Mark and Laurie, Bob and Michelle, and my wife and me. The ladies planned the amazing meal, and each couple was responsible for preparing one or more dishes. 

Wine Pairing Perfection

The “bird cage” patio and pool area served as a great setting for the meal. Buddy manned the grill and performed flawlessly.

Spinach and feta puff pastry and prosciutto-wrapped breadsticks were paired with two traditional-method sparkling wines to open the meal. First served was the 2018 Cuvée Jean Philippe Brut Blanquette de Limoux from the home region of France’s first sparkling wine. Once the stubborn cork was removed, this proved lively and fresh with flavors of the Mauzac grape. Our second pour was the Gruet Brut NV from New Mexico. This was frothy and crisp with apple and citrus flavors. The sunny Florida weather, flowing bubbles, and great appetizers were an auspicious beginning.

Our fish course was Grilled Mahi-Mahi with mango salsa and mandarin orange salad.  The 2023 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes was a newer addition to Bob’s collection and a spot-on pairing with the succulent Mahi. The wine surprised some of our guests who weren’t familiar with the tasty dry version of Riesling. Yalumba in Australia’s Barossa Valley is a worldwide leader in Viognier, a grape originating in France’s Rhône Valley. We chose their 2021 Yalumba “Eden Valley” Viognier. It is aged for 10 months in oak and has a creamy texture. This was a superb dish and pairing.

We shifted gears to red wine and another elevated dish: pork tenderloin with cranberry chutney and sauteed green beans with toasted almonds. During my trip to Spain years ago, I was impressed with the wines from the Montsant region, which encircles the famous Priorat DOQ. The wines are powerful and represent a great value. Bob’s collection yielded a 2018 Potente Red Blend. Potente is a blend of Garnacha, Syrah, Merlot, and Carignan. This wine is showing well with notes of cherries and chocolate.

The 2020 Bastide Miraflore Syrah & Vielles Vignes de Grenache comes from Côtes du Roussillon in the French Mediterranean. I may have overplayed my hand on this one, as the blend of Syrah and Grenache tended to overpower the pork.

Through The Ages With Cabernet Sauvignon

Go big or go home. Since we weren’t leaving, we had no choice but to roll out three Cabernet Sauvignon for our Plat Principal. The dish was a mouthwatering beef filet roast with brandy mushroom cream sauce and roasted Medley potatoes. We entered our time machine for our first Cab, the 1989 Robert Mondavi Reserve Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. This was a long shot when I opened the capsule. The cork showed leakage, and while half the cork came out neatly, the bottom had to be pushed in. Using a strainer, the wine proved to be alive and kicking. The wine is past its glory days but still displayed smokey notes, slight earthiness, and some faded fruit – not bad for a 36-year-old wine. 

Hafner is a small, third-generation family winery in Alexander Valley, one of the primo areas for Cabernet in Sonoma. Our second pour was their 2012 Hafner Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins are fully integrated, with no rough edges. Violets, black cherry, and cigar box notes matched well with our filet. It is a wine to savor.

Enjoying A Block Party

Thirty years on from our first Cab, the 2019 Priest Ranch Block 136 Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley is a powerhouse of elegant flavors. Aged for 26 months in 75% new oak, Block 136 has righteous tannins and defined flavors of oak. We decanted for two hours to allow the wine to open up and were rewarded with pleasurable plum, blackberry, and cherry overtones. Thanks to Mark and Laurie for making this a “Block” party.

After four courses and nine wines, we were ready for the finale, a sinful dessert of macerated berries with vanilla ice cream, mint, and Grand Marnier sauce.

The evening was spectacular, filled with good times, amazing wine, and succulent food. Tasting older vintage wines, one more than three decades old, along with current vintages, was a singular experience.

Cheers, Venice!

What's In Your Glass? Here Are A Trio Of Our Recent Wine Pours

What's in our glass? Here are three recent wines we tasted at Vino-Sphere international headquarters. They range from ho-hum to magnificent. Which is which? To find out, read on...

Les Indigènes "Cultivar" 2023 Grenache Blanc, France

This French white hails from the Languedoc region. While red Grenache is most widely known, and we love it, white Grenache has great charm. It is a juicy wine, fresh with ripe green pear and made with organic grapes. It has a medium body, so it stands apart from the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc you might typically buy.

We purchased this at Total Wine for $18. I consider it a great value. It's also at the low end of the ABV spectrum (12.5%), making it a great food pairing wine. It works well with turkey, fish, pasta, or other light entrees.

Element Winery 2015 F.L.X. Cuvée, Finger Lakes

Element Winery is the brainchild of Christopher Bates, who promotes the virtues of the Finger Lakes cool-climate wine with an evangelistic zeal. With wines like the 2015 Cuvée, it's easy to grasp his enthusiasm. 

This is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir, with a dash of Blaufränkisch. It's a limited production with only 281 cases produced. This bottle demonstrates just how beautifully Finger Lakes wines can age.

The three grapes sing in perfect harmony, with tart cranberry to open with rich berry notes and light spice to follow. The lower alcohol level and higher acidity provide the balance that makes this an exceptional experience. SRP $33.

Ego Bodegas 2021 El Goru Gold, Jumillia

Maybe it was the crazy character on the label -- or perhaps the discounted $9 price -- but this bottle from Spain attracted my attention. The label translates El Goru to mean "mad hairy fella." If only for the brilliant portrait on the bottle, I decided to give it a go.

The label proclaimed a 93-point rating by Wine Enthusiast. However, ratings, and pretty labels, can be misleading. It may have benefitted from some decanting because the high ABV (14.5%) nearly bowled me over. Jumillia is known for its Monastrell (Mourvedre) wines, which I've found to be smooth and fruit-forward. This hairy old man wasn't so easygoing. The wine had oak, plum, and leather notes with some mint along for the ride, but it remained closed and unrewarding.

This wine didn't make the cut, but as Meatloaf said, "Two out of three ain't bad."

Add Spice To Your Valentines Day With This Trio Of Wines

These three Portuguese wines from Silk & Spice are just what you need to make your Valentine’s Day one to remember.

Silk & Spice wines are perfect
for Valentine's Day.

We first discovered Silk & Spice wines four years ago, tasting the 2018 vintage of their original red wine. Today it is the best-selling red Portuguese blend in the US. The wine made such an impression that when we learned three new wines were available, we jumped at the chance to taste them.

Silk & Spice is a tribute to the adventurous spirit of the Portuguese navigators who explored the world in the 15th century and opened up the silk and spice trade routes. The wines combine native Portuguese grapes in mouthwatering combinations at very reasonable prices.

If you are searching for a spark for Valentine’s Day, check out these three wines. One (or more) may be perfect. 

Silk Route Red 2021

Playing off the brand name, this wine delivers a smooth ride that begins with the aromas of red fruit and chocolate. On the palate, there are fresh red cherries and plum plus some savory notes and a touch of pepper. 

The blend is 40% Tinto Roriz (Tempranillo), 40% Baga, and 20% Merlot. The wine is very well-balanced. The Tinto Roriz and Merlot contribute to an ultra-plush finish while the Baga provides the tannins for a nice structure. 

This is ideal with snacks, salads, meat, or grilled vegetables

White Blend 2023

This was a surprise for me. Outside of Vinho Verde and Alvarinho, I am used to sipping red wines from Portugal. In my own journey of discovery, I found this to be a fresh and bright white wine – perfect for casual dining or chilling out.

Silk Route smooth red blend.

Blended in this wine are 35% Arinto, 15% Alvarinho (Albarino), and 50% Bical. Peach and melon flavors dominate with touches of white blossom. The mouthfeel is rounded rather than acidic. The wine is fermented in stainless steel but does spend some time in American oak on fine lees.

 

A lower ABV (12.5%) means this is a food-friendly wine. This will be perfect with grilled vegetables, sushi, grilled chicken, or pasta with cream sauce.

Spice Road Red 2021

Spice Road indeed! This wine takes its name seriously. A blend of 20% Touriga Nacional, 50% Alicante Bouschet, and 30% Shiraz, this wine is a salute to the most important spices traded during the Portuguese voyages of exploration, which are now found around the world.

The Alicante Bouschet makes this wine big and bold. Flavors of blackberries and blueberries mingle with notes of chocolate and profound spices. To taste this is to experience the exotic spices of the Silk Route in a glass.

This wine is made with their finest grapes, which undergo additional maceration after fermentation. The result is a deep, beautiful purple. This wine is for the adventurous. 

It is a chance to break out of the bubble of conventional wines and enjoy unfamiliar but delicious grapes. Another tasty aspect is that each bottle costs only $13.99. At this price, you can afford to get all three to go big this Valentine’s Day.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Lessons from the Winescape: Emerging Wine Regions Must Rely on Artisanal Ethos

By Dave Nershi, CSW

China is an emerging wine market.

How do emerging wine regions compete with the big players for shelf space and the hearts of consumers? According to one scholar, they should take a holistic view of their situation and focus on creativity and artisanal winemaking.

"In my research, I’ve always studied emerging and transforming regions and looked at their infrastructures and environments,” said Eric Patterson at the Southeastern United Grape and Wine Symposium, recently held at Surry Community College in Dobson, NC. As a student at California’s UC Davis, it was natural that he would see how this applied to the wine world. “I did preliminary research, and it just exploded. I knew this would be a path.” 

Patterson is pursuing a cultural anthropology doctorate as a PhD student at UC Davis. His research focus is emerging wine cultures and their social, political, and economic impact. 

In his work, he uses a concept known as winescapes, first developed by Vander Valduga, Sarah Marroni Minasi, and Gui Lohmann in the Routledge Handbook of Wine Tourism in 2022. If wine terroir is a chess game, a winescape is three-dimensional chess.

Eric Patterson in a
North Carolina vineyard.

According to Patterson, a winescape is a multifaceted wine region defined by its unique local culture, terroir, and winemaking practices. It stretches beyond mere geography to encompass the social dynamics and economic factors that shape wine production, appreciation, and consumption.

A winescape can have geographic boundaries but transcends a regional focus. It is more holistic, including culture, creativity, and winemaking practices. 

The winescape framework “helps you understand how a wine region will flesh out,” said Patterson. “It includes all the things that affect the wine region. It allows the region to reach its maximum potential.”

Emerging wine regions are gaining prominence as they bring fresh perspectives and innovative approaches to viticulture and oenology. These areas contribute to economic growth and diversify the global wine landscape, offering distinct flavors and stories.

Two winescapes visited during Patterson’s fieldwork couldn’t be more different: China and North Carolina. Both are considered emerging wine regions. Both are unlocking creativity in their growth.

Erik Martella's Summer Kitchen.

“Creativity is a fuel that needs to be used,” said Patterson. “It’s a driving force.” There is a greater need for creativity in regions where conditions (climate, soil, wine market) are not ideal.

 In North Carolina, wineries are embracing creativity and artisanal style.  Raffaldini Vineyards, in the Yadkin Valley, specializes in Italian grape varieties. For some of its wines, it uses the appassimento, drying the grapes before fermentation. The raisinated grapes provide a wonderful depth of flavor.

Carolina Heritage Winery takes a creative approach to be more sustainable. The local county doesn’t have a recycling plan, so the winery uses new sustainable packaging options including eye-catching paper wine bottles. The bottles use 94% recycled material.

Rather than trying to duplicate European wines, winemaker Erik Martella is creating something entirely new. In southern states, muscadine wines have traditionally been produced in a sweet style and even contain added flavors. Martella is taking these grapes, which are naturally disease-resistant and come in about 150 varieties, and applying fine wine techniques. He uses carbonic maceration, aging on the lees or seeds, and extended aging. His goal is to craft fine wines from these native grapes.

Chinese vineyard.

Culturally dense products are a unique and important part of Patterson’s research. Wine is one such product, encapsulating a narrative of both the land and the people behind its creation. Patterson found this to be the case in China, a land with vast potential for wine production.

Formerly, Chinese wine consumers preferred Bordeaux or Australian wines. In 2020, China placed an embargo on Australian wines with a stiff tariff. The embargo was lifted in 2024, but this disruption proved to be a boost for the Chinese wine industry, still in its infancy.

A growing number of Chinese winemakers have graduated from foreign or domestic wine programs. This increased knowledge has boosted the understanding of how to make quality wine. China has become an innovator in the field. They are pushing innovation surrounding sustainability, varieties, and winemaking techniques that bring in more consumers, especially younger ones.

There is a growing middle class in China, and through community engagement and adaptive marketing, the niche is being successfully targeted. Chinese consumers are more aware and hungrier to understand what role drinking wine as a hobby and social activity means to them.

Chinese wines are marketed to
a growing middle class.

According to Patterson, emerging and successful wine regions have an impact that reaches beyond your wine glass. “The wine industry has the potential to transform rural areas quicker than any other industry I’ve studied,” he said. It involves many socio-economic levels, from the farmers to construction workers, winery staff, and ultimately the consumer. The capital barrier for entry is low and there is a wide range of consumers and investors.

He sees an inflection point coming, perhaps triggered by the changing climate, where established regions will need to think beyond rigid frameworks and embrace the creativity needed for their next stage of growth.

Emerging winescapes like North Carolina can be the future model for wine regions, said Patterson. “It’s a mix of tradition and new. The region is trying to do it differently because it can’t do it like everyone else.”

Most photos courtesy of Eric Patterson. Martella wine photo by Dave Nershi.