Ghost Hill Cellars Producing Legendary Pinot Noir

Ghost Hill Cellars is a fifth-generation family farm that has been operated since 1906. After decades of growing crops and raising cattle, the Bayliss-Bower family pivoted to Pinot Noir in 1999.

Located in Willamette Valley's Yamhill-Carlton AVA, the family’s highly prized soils produce Pinot Noir

of exceptional finesse and longevity, crafted by acclaimed Oregon winemaker Eric Hamacher. It's also known for the namesake ghost that is said to haunt the environs.

According to legend, in the late 1800s, a gold prospector on his way to sell his ore in Portland camped at the top of a wooded hill, on what is now known as Savannah Ridge. In the dark of night, a bandit attacked and killed him and his horse, stealing away the gold. Some say the miner’s ghost still wanders the hill in search of his stolen treasure. 

Brothers Daniel and Samuel Bayliss bought the land in 1906 and operated a dairy until Samuel’s son and his wife bought them out in the 1930s. The land was used for growing wheat, hay, clover, and peas, and raising sheep. Their son Mike Bayliss and his wife Drenda raised cattle and hay but opted for producing Pinot Noir to keep the farm in the family.

They started with a goal of providing grapes to other wineries but established an excellent reputation and decided to make their own wine. Today, Mike and Drenda live in the original farmhouse and get help operating the farm from the fifth generation: their son Michael, daughter Bernadette, and son-in-law Cameron Bower. They produce around 1,200 cases of 100% estate-grown Pinot Noir annually.

Eric Hamacher, one of Oregon’s most respected and sought-after winemakers, took over Ghost

Hill winemaking with the 2015 harvest. He favors traditional winemaking techniques and favors wild fermentation and minimal intervention. The winery also benefits from a favored position, atop Savannah Ridge. The 16-acre estate vineyard is 400 feet in elevation and features Willakenzie series soils on top of marine sediment bedrock. The soil type, the best known in Willamette Valley, is ideal for growing Pinot Noir.

During a recent International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association webinar, we had a chance to taste the 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc. This is the best-selling wine for Ghost Cellars and was originally produced so that the winery could offer a white wine in its tasting room. It is whole-cluster-pressed, providing a great depth of flavor, and finished in neutral oak. In the glass, it is a beautiful rose gold color. On the palate, there are juicy stone fruit flavors with notes of citrus and pear. 

It's a delectable wine that is outstanding as an aperitif or a companion for a shellfish entree. The retail price is $34.

Ghost Hill Cellars offers a spirited lineup of Pinot Noir. We recommend them highly.

International Petit Verdot Day Is Scheduled For January 25

Petit Verdot isn't just for blending. Join in celebrating this full-bodied red grape during its international celebration this month.

Sure, I've known about Petit Verdot for many years. In those first years, though, it was 1% here or 3% there, added to a French Bordeaux or an American red blend. My eyes were opened more than a decade ago during a trip to Virginia wine country.

A pre-conference excursion during the Wine Bloggers Conference led me from Charlottesville, Virginia, to the Flying Fox winery. There they poured a glass of 100% Virginia Petit Verdot. Boom. It was silky and rich, flowing with ripe flavors. I became enlightened to the wonders of single-varietal Petit Verdot.

Since then I've sought out Petit Verdot and have enjoyed wonderful bottles from Moon Mountain, Walla Walla, Bordeaux, North Carolina, Colorado, and Argentina. Who knows what other bottles are just faded memories? The point is that single-varietal Petit Verdot is a thing, and it is a thing you should be enjoying right now. We've got the ideal opportunity for you.

The inaugural International Petit Verdot Day, a global celebration dedicated to one of the wine industry's most intriguing varietals, Petit Verdot, is scheduled for Saturday, January 25, 2025. This event aims to bring together wine enthusiasts, connoisseurs, and producers to honor and explore the unique characteristics and versatility of Petit Verdot. 

Petit Verdot translates from French as "little green one" and it ripens later than most red wine grapes. In fact, that characteristic led to much of the French Petit Verdot vines being uprooted and replaced with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which ripen earlier. Today, you'll find Petit Verdot in wide-ranging locales, from Argentina to California to Australia. You'll experience a range of flavors from plum to black cherry and herbal notes such as cooking spice and perhaps violet. For International Petit Verdot Day, you may wish to compare Petit Verdot from different countries.

International Petit Verdot Day is the effort of Arthur Barham, a sommelier and wine judge from North Carolina. He is the creator of Merlot2Muscadine, media created to advance the wines and wineries of North Carolina. “International Petit Verdot Day is an exciting opportunity for wine lovers around the

world to come together and appreciate the complexity of Petit Verdot,” said Barham. It's his hope that this special day will foster a greater understanding and appreciation of the grape variety, whether as part of a blend or as a standalone wine. He notes that Petit Verdot does exceptionally well in North Carolina.

To celebrate this special day, Barham will facilitate and encourage a series of events, including tastings, educational seminars, and wine pairings at wineries and wine bars worldwide. Participants are encouraged to share their experiences on social media using the hashtags #PetitVerdotDay and #InternationalPetitVerdotDay to connect with fellow enthusiasts and discover the diverse expressions of this varietal.

To learn more about how you can participate (as a wine lover, winery, wine bar, or wine influencer) go to the International Petit Verdot Day web page.

Clif Family Wines Climb To New Heights

Bring energy to your holiday entertaining with these wines from Clif Family.

Clif Family Winery in Napa is dedicated to organic farming and sustainable business practices. If the name sounds familiar, it should. Gary Erickson and his wife Kit Crawford are co-creators of the Clif Bar and winery co-owners. The energy bar, named after Gary’s father Clifford, shows a rock climber dangling precariously from the side of a mountain cliff.

The Clif Bar was launched in 1992 and even then, Gary and Kit envisioned a more sustainable model for business, one in which organic farming and ingredients played central roles. In 2004 the Clif Family Farm and Winery began as a way to connect with the family.

What started as a small garden is now a fully operational farm with 90 acres of estate vineyards in Napa Valley’s famed Oak Knoll and Howell Mountain districts. Nine different grape varieties are grown; the vineyards are certified organic and Napa Green-certified.

With a group of friends and wine lovers, we recently uncorked six current Clif Family releases: 

• Unoaked Chardonnay, 2023, Oak Knoll
• Rte Blanc Sauvignon Blanc, 2023, Napa Valley
• Reyna Noriega White Blend, 2023, Oak Knoll
• Rosé of Grenache, 2023, Mendocino County
• Gary's Improv Zinfandel, 2023, Oak Knoll
• Reyna Noriega Red Blend, 2022, Oak Knoll

We opted for a casual tasting with various charcuterie and appetizers rather than a sit-down meal. The unoaked Chardonnay was our arrival wine. It struck just the right chord, with flavors of pear and apricot as we toasted the evening’s fun. 

The next two whites were accompanied by homemade sourdough bread with dipping sauces, cheese, sausage, and homemade guacamole. The Rte Blanc delivers Sauvignon Blanc goodness sans the jarring acidity of New Zealand versions. This wine has notes of white blossom, lemongrass, and oodles of minerality. 

Reyna Noriega is a visual artist, designer, and author. Her work centers on women of color and is designed to instill hope, healing, and pride. In collaboration with Clif, two special blends are offered. The 2023 white blend is 60% Viognier and 40% Chardonnay. The tropical vibes of Viognier fill the palate with tangerine while the full and round flavors hint at white blossoms. This wine gets six months in neutral oak.

For our reds, we had stuffed mushrooms, meatballs, brownies and chocolate. The Rosé of Grenache was the only wine not from Napa (well, we did slip in a seventh wine. More about that later). The rosé hails from Mendocino County and is pale pink with notes of strawberry and watermelon.

Gary’s Improv Zinfandel comes from the winery’s new Valle Di Sotto vineyard and features a 7% splash of Petite Sirah. This was an excellent pick with our brownies. The tannins are restrained with fruit-driven notes of blackberry accented with cooking spice.

The 2022 red Reyna Noriega collaboration wine is 49% Zinfandel, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, and 5% Malbec. The Zin provides a nice jammy note to this medium-bodied wine and Cabernet provides depth. There are notes of plum and strawberry. The aging is 18 months in 20% new oak. This is a delightful limited production (382 cases) wine.

The selection of Clif wines we enjoyed was impressive, made all the more so by the winery’s commitment to sustainability. The prices are accessible, ranging from $30 to $50. The Reyna Noriega duo is available as a set, which is just perfect for holiday gift-giving. Clif also offers a premium range of Howell Mountain wines at higher prices.

As our crowd drifted to the comfortable seating and conversation ensued, we had time for just one more wine. Before our soiree began, I had selected a bottle and placed it anonymously in a “number 7” blind-tasting bag. It was now time for that seventh wine.

To close our evening I decanted and then poured the 2012 Rotie Cellars Northern Blend from Washington State. This winery focuses on Rhone-style wines. The Northern Blend is 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier and appears to be at its peak. This wine was profoundly marvelous. I picked it up at the winery tasting room while visiting Walla Walla. It has meaty dark fruits with a nice thread of minerality and a long silken finish.

Enjoy the holiday season.

Artigiano Bellinis Add Festive Note To Holiday Entertaining

Making plans for a holiday party? Consider adding these wines and wine cocktails for the perfect touch.

Artigiano makes three Bellinis that add a festive note to your event. A Bellini is a light and fruity drink, traditionally made with Prosecco and peach puree. It originated in Venice and is named for a Renaissance painter. Artigiano adds a twist by offering not only peach but mango and strawberry flavors as well. These wine cocktails capture the spirit of Italy by combining fruit puree with white wine (even though it is German white wine from the Mosel region). Carbonation is artfully added. 

The Green Dragon opened all three at a recent girl's night party. Joining the lineup was the Mosketto Rosato from Italy. A Moscato exhibiting "pink power" this one has plenty of fruit and flowers on the nose. Art of Earth is a brand we love because of its commitment to organic and vegan winemaking. The Art of Earth 2021 Riesling from Rheinhessen is off-dry with notes of citrus and minerality.

 

Each wine is priced under $13.

Pennsylvania’s Laurel Highlands Beckons with Outdoor Adventures and World-Class Attractions

The Laurel Highlands is a magnificent mountain region in southwestern Pennsylvania that spans parts of Fayette, Somerset, and Westmoreland Counties. Just east of Pittsburgh, it's known for its stunning natural scenery, outdoor recreational activities, historic sites, and attractions.

Photos and article

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Laurel Highlands is a destination certain to delight year-round. In the spring budding trees and wildflowers create a colorful landscape perfect for hiking and enjoying the mountain air. In summer the warm weather is well-suited for white water rafting, biking, hiking, and exploring the area's many sites of interest. Fall brings a vibrant collage of colorful foliage. The shades of red, yellow, and orange are ideal for “leaf peeping” and photography. Winter brings abundant snow for snowboarding, skiing, snow tubing, or enjoying a drink by a blazing fire.

During our recent visit, we visited some memorable sites and attractions in Laurel Highlands.

Flight 93 National Memorial

I had the chance to visit the Flight 93 National Memorial in Shanksville, Pennsylvania, just hours after President Biden, VP Harris, and former President Donald Trump. It was a heavy and moving experience. 

The visitor center tells the story of 9/11 and the 33 passengers and seven crew members aboard United Flight 93 who perished. The passengers, aware of the Twin Towers and Pentagon attacks, rushed to the pilot compartment to stop the hijackers from crashing the plane into another target in Washington DC.

The walkway to the visitor center follows the plane's flight path, which ultimately flipped upside down and plowed into the rural field burning a grove of hemlock trees. The walls on the side of the walk have the impressed texture of hemlock bark.

A memorial walkway has a wall listing the 40 who were killed. Flowers, photos, and notes were placed along the wall. Beyond, a boulder marks the spot of impact.

The Tower of the Voices is 93 feet high with 40 aluminum chimes, signifying the voices of those who voted that September morning to take a stand against terrorism.

Seven Springs Mountain Resort

Seven Springs Mountain Resort is a family-friendly four-season resort with a history that dates back to 1932. That’s when Bavarian immigrants Adolph and Helen Dupre purchased 2.5 acres on the mountain and established Seven Spring Farm. Adolph developed the first mechanical rope tow in 1935, a significant innovation for skiing at the time. 

The resort is celebrating its 90 years of history with special activities and a display in the main lodge. In 2022 Seven Springs was acquired by Vail Resorts, which manages eight ski resorts across Pennsylvania.

Over the years it developed significantly, adding more trails, lifts, and amenities, such as restaurants and the Trillium Spa. Located at 2,994 feet, Seven Springs features 10 ski lifts and 285 acres of skiable terrain including 33 trails and seven terrain parks for snowboarding.

With an average of 135 inches of snow, there is plenty of white stuff for your winter activities. Seven Springs was a pioneer in snowmaking technology in the eastern US. In the 1970s, the resort was one of the first in the Mid-Atlantic region to implement snowmaking, allowing it to extend its ski season and provide more reliable snow conditions for guests.

Summer activities include kayaking or paddleboarding, a 1,980-foot Alpine slide, scenic chairlift rides, plus plenty of special events.

The Architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright

Frank Lloyd Wright, the most famous 20th-century American architect, believed houses should look like they belong and form an organic union with nature. Gracing the beautiful Laurel Highlands scenery are several Wright homes, including his most famous.

Kentuck Knob, located in Chalk Hill, PA, is one of his Usonian designs, intended as affordable homes for middle-income families. The house is situated just below the crest of a hill and almost appears to be part of the mountain. It features clerestory windows, long low lines, and an open floor plan. A roof that overhangs the porch features 24 hexagonal trellis openings.

Kentuck Knob is a National Historic Landmark. Check the website for tour availability and ticket information.

Just seven miles away is Fallingwater, Wright’s masterpiece. Designed in 1935 for the Kaufmann family of Pittsburgh, it is dramatically cantilevered over a waterfall and Bear Run stream. The main house is 9,300 square feet of which 4,400 square feet are outdoor terraces. The home is constructed of concrete, sandstone, and steel with a color palette of light ochre for the concrete and Cherokee red for the steel.

The home and guest house feature built-in furnishings, custom light fixtures and millwork, as well as 170 custom wood furnishings designed by Wright. The house is a museum now owned by the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy. Tour schedule and tickets are available on the website. 

Polymath Park, located in Acme, PA, is a haven for architecture fans. It features four homes, two by Wright and two by his apprentice Peter Berndtson. The Duncan House is a Usonian home built in Lisle, Illinois, which was rebuilt and preserved at Polymath Park. Mäntylä, meaning “house among the pines,” is a home with angular roof lines that jut skyward like the prow of a ship. It includes all the Wright hallmarks, including natural light, built-in furniture, and strong integration with the natural surroundings. One custom sofa runs the length of the spectacular living room, which has a light and airy feeling due to the clerestory windows and the open design.

Various tours are available, including those with a meal at the resort’s acclaimed TreeTops restaurant. If you wish to immerse yourself in the unique architecture, you can reserve an overnight stay. The houses have a maximum of four guests and stays are limited to three nights.

Fort Ligonier

Before there was a United States, Britain and its American colonies were engaged in a bloody war with the French and their Indian allies. Fort Ligonier was built in 1758 as part of the British campaign to cross 300 miles of rugged Pennsylvania countryside to capture Fort Duquesne (today’s Pittsburgh). 

The reconstructed 18th-century fort was the final staging point for British troops before their attack. During the eight years it was in use, the fort served as a vital supply and communications link and it was never taken by an enemy. At one point, more than 5,000 people lived at the fort, making it the second-largest population area in Pennsylvania (after Philadelphia).

In addition to the fascinating collection of artillery and prickly defensive structures, there is a superb museum featuring galleries dedicated to art and history as well as George Washington, who gained valuable experience at the fort and in French and Indian Wars campaigns. The Friendly Fire painting by John Buxton and the Washington Lafayette Pistols are of special note.

The Buxton painting captures a key moment in Washington's life. In the fog of war, his troops, who were skirmishing with a band of attackers, mistakenly fired on a group of fellow Virginians who had come to help. At great personal risk, Washington halted the shooting, but 13 British soldiers perished.

The Washington Lafayette Pistols were given to Washington by the Marquis de Lafayette. Washington is said to have worn them as commander-in-chief of the Continental Army at Valley Forge. After his death, the pistols were given to President Andrew Jackson who prized them until his death.

Laurel Highlands Restaurants and More

Looking for a great meal or a refreshing beverage while touring Laurel Highlands? We can recommend the following:

Shorty’s Restaurant - 6167 Lincoln Highway Stoystown PA. Shorty’s is a beloved upscale casual restaurant and full bar that “serves up happiness” with outstanding service. It serves everything from loaded pierogies to filet mignon in a relaxed, rustic decor. A short drive from Seven Springs Resort.

TreeTops Restaurant - 187 Evergreen Ln, Acme, PA. Located in Polymath Park, TreeTops features treehouse-style dining in a private dining pod. This is a beautifully relaxing setting made all the better by amazing cuisine. Most of the dishes are the chef’s choice, showcasing the creativity and expertise of the culinary team. There is an outstanding selection of wine as well.

Stone Villa Cellars - 1085 Claypike Rd, Acme, PA. In a hand-crafted stone building, this winery serves up more than 20 quality wines that appeal to all tastes. Sip your wine at a shaded table while you take in the view of the lake and vineyard. All wines are made on-site and the winery is open year-round.

The Kitchen on Main - 136 E Main St, Ligonier, PA. Located on Ligonier’s scenic Main Street, which is loaded with shops and other attractions, this eatery is the place where locals gather. It is a scratch kitchen that offers dishes such as a crispy eggplant tower and orange chive salmon burger. The restaurant focuses on classic gourmet flavors and is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

For information about Laurel Highlands and its events and attractions, check out Go Laurel Highlands.

Pennsylvania's Stone Villa Wine Cellars Crafting Rock Solid Wines

Stone Villa General Manager and Winemaker Dominic Rose

Laurel Highlands winery prepares to celebrate 25th anniversary

Stone Villa Wine Cellars' name is more than catchy marketing. It’s a salute to more than four generations of stonemasons and winemakers. Located on 150 acres in the scenic Laurel Highlands of southwestern Pennsylvania, the winery is owned by Randy and Debbie Paul. Randy’s construction company built the winery, and his father brought his masonry skills to the project and finished all the stonework. The stone construction gave the winery its name and creates an inviting setting for enjoying wine.

Stone Villa has unique stone construction

Laurel Highlands, located just east of Pittsburgh and encompassing Fayette, Somerset, and Westmoreland counties, is known for spectacular scenery and outdoor recreation. It’s also possible to taste your way through the region, which features 52 craft beverage makers. 

The Pennsylvania wine industry dates to the 18th century and benefits from the moderating effects of Lake Erie and the Atlantic Ocean. Today the state has more than 100 wineries. I’ve. visited a handful of PA wineries and was eager to renew my acquaintance with Keystone State wine.

Dominic Rose, the general manager and winemaker, acknowledges that Pennsylvania wine doesn’t have the national reputation of some other states. ”We’re out to change that opinion,” he said during our recent visit. “We are a product-focused winery, not a wedding venue. We don’t put anything in the bottle we wouldn’t like to drink ourselves.”

The tasting room features a wrap-around concrete table with plenty of elbow room that affords a great view of the vineyard and private lake. On this day the sun was glinting off the water and scattered couples were enjoying the scenery with glasses of wine under umbrellas.

Stone Villa grows 12 grape varieties that range from the well-known to hybrid grapes which are suited for the cooler climate. The winery opened in 2000 and is preparing to celebrate its 25th anniversary next year.

Wine tastings are complimentary with 20 selections ranging from dry to sweet with some nice options in between. Bottle prices range from $14 to $24.

The tasting opened with the 2022 Dry Riesling. I was unsure what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised by the mineral notes and refreshing apple and pear flavors. This is a very good Riesling. The 2022 Pinocitro was another treat. It is a Pinot Grigio blend that has a pronounced citrus spin. 

Private lake is the perfect location for sipping

On the red side, my favorite was the 2021 Vintner’s Select. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, De Chaunac, and Corot Noir (the last two being hybrid grapes). It gets aging in French and American oak and I was surprised at the depth of flavor. It has notes of dark cherry and currant. This is their premier wine and would nicely pair with a grilled steak (medium rare, if you please).

At Dom’s suggestion, I tried the semi-dry 2021 Villa Red. This is an enjoyable fruit-forward wine made with Chambourcin, De Chaunac, Frontenac, and Corot Noir. Chamourcin and De Chaunac are hybrids created in France, while Frontenac (University of Minnesota) and Corot Noir (Cornell) are hybrids created by well-known university viticulture programs. 

Stone Villa is located at 1085 Clay Pike Road in Acme, PA. Stop by for a complimentary tasting and soak in the one-of-a-kind atmosphere while enjoying some of Pennsylvania’s best wine.

French-American Partnership Boosts Forge Cellars Riesling Excellence

The Finger Lakes wine region, specializing in cool climate wines and regularly garnering accolades from wine media, is the premier US location for Riesling. During the last 15 years, I’ve visited the area repeatedly and have sampled some heavenly Riesling. Now there may be a new king of Riesling in the region.

Article and Photos by Dave Nershi, CSW

Forge Cellars is a collaboration between French wine vigneron Louis Barruol and US wine industry veteran Rick Rainey. It is located on Seneca Lake’s east side and offers a spectacular lake view.  The Salon, a stylish alpine-inspired tasting room, offers indoor and outdoor seating.

This was my first visit to Forge, although I have sampled their wine before. They debuted with the 2011 vintage. At that time, the wines were being poured at the Hector Wine Company and they started with a few hundred cases of dry Riesling. In 2023 they produced 10,000 cases and have a goal of producing 13,000.

The international collaboration is indicative of the growing worldwide attention the Finger Lakes is receiving.  In fact, Forge Cellars wine is available in England, Sweden, and even Japan.

Barruol comes from 14 generations of winemaking tradition. His family has been located in the Rhône Valley village of Gigondas since the 16^th century. In 1992 he took over the Château de St. Cosme estate, regarded as the finest in Gigondas.

Rainey is a master of the wine business, spending more than 20 years in all aspects of distribution and working as a buyer for a French wine portfolio. With a goal of one day owning a winery, he naturally gravitated to partnerships with growers – something essential for Forge.

Rick has the commercial vision and helped create the Forge tasting salon and Louis has decades of winemaking knowledge essential to create elevated wines. The amazing partnership has created a Finger Lakes phenomenon.

During our recent visit, we were greeted by winemaker Léana Godard. A native of France, she earned an oenology degree from the University of Bordeaux and served as Louis’ intern and mentee at Château de St. Cosme.  She began work at Forge Cellars in 2018 and split her time between France and the US before transitioning to the Finger Lakes in 2022.

Although Forge produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, the shining star is Riesling. Forge offers 11 single vineyard Rieslings plus a Classique bottling, which is a blend of all the single vineyard bottlings. It’s almost too joyful for a Riesling lover to endure.

The vineyards used are located on an eight-mile stretch of the southeast side of Seneca Lake. The varied soils, elevations, and proximity to the lake give each vineyard a distinctive personality. The unifying factor for all the sites is shale. The shale helps the soil retain heat and promotes good drainage. It’s brittle, so the roots can go deep in their search for nutrients. This slice of terroir enjoys warmer temperatures than most of the Finger Lakes region, earning its name as the "Banana Belt."

Each of the single vineyard Rieslings is commendable. Here are my personal favorites:

2021 Willow Vineyard is delicate and finessed with no biting, a nuanced wine with tropical fruit notes.

2022 Wagner Caywood East is from a sloping, windswept vineyard at 978 feet of elevation. It has a beautiful freshness with an accent on minerality.

2022 Bellows Vineyard is from rocky and gravelly soil and has concentrated flavors of honeydew and citrus blossom.

The 2022 Breakneck Creek Vineyard has herbal notes and a vibrant nature. Green apple, peach, and minerality add to the complexity.

The 2021 Classique is a snapshot of Forge Cellars, using grapes from all the vineyards and requiring a tasting of 50 or so different samples to get just the right mix. Look for tree fruit flavors with citrus and a touch of creaminess. Classique accounts for about one-third of Forge's sales.

Forge Cellars is a must-visit destination in the Finger Lakes. Its old-style European winemaking blends seamlessly with the delicious cool-climate Riesling grapes from the Finger Lakes. The hospitality and comfort in the Salon is second to none in the region. 

Erik Martella Blazing New Trail With Muscadine Wines

Can Muscadine grapes produce truly elevated American wines?

Erik Martella spent nearly two decades as a winemaker and winery manager for some of California’s largest and most recognizable brands. In 2018 he left the world of corporate winemaking and returned to family roots, eventually settling in Western North Carolina.

His latest endeavor has a twist. Working with winery and vineyard partners in North Carolina, he is crafting small-batch limited releases of American fine wines crafted with Muscadine grapes.

Muscadine Grapes Are A Southern Favorite

North Carolina is awash with Muscadine grapes, with about 1,200 acres currently grown in the state. Many are made into sweet red and white wines. These are good-time wines for picnics and summertime fun – but while popular, a good segment of wine lovers dismiss these wines as too sweet and simple.

Instead of trying to duplicate European wines, Martella is determined to elevate these grapes to uniquely American fine wines.

Erik Martella and Red.
Courtesy of Erik Martella Wine

More than 99 percent of the world’s fine wines are made with vitis vinifera grapes. This species gives us Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and a plethora of other recognized wine grapes.

Muscadines, on the other hand, are a different species and are native to the American southeast. They are larger, have looser clusters, thicker skins, and have unique acid and aroma profiles compared to traditional wine grapes. They also have higher concentrations of potentially healthful compounds such as resveratrol.

They are also hardy grapes, resistant to many diseases that plague traditional wine grapes. As a result, Muscadines can often be grown with no pesticides at all. Martella works primarily with two Muscadine grapes, the white Carolos and the red called Noble.

We sampled two releases by Erik Martella. The 2021 CVB Sparkling is a 60/40 blend of Carlos and Vidal Blanc. The varieties were hand-picked and fermented separately, then blended together for a second fermentation using the tank method.

A Puzzling And Distinctive Aroma

Upon sniffing both wines, we were hit with a pungent aroma quite different from a typical white wine. Digging below the musky odor, the fruity aroma of the grapes emerged. This sparkler is unfiltered and spends time on the lees to gain additional complexity. The palate has a layer of toast with a splash of muscadine “grapiness.” There is stone fruit and a dash of citrus. I found myself puzzling about the wine, which evolved in the glass, calling me back for more. This is a small production run with 97 cases produced.

The 2022 Summer Kitchen is 100% Carlos, made in the traditional white wine method. Since I mostly focus on vinifera wines, I called in reinforcements. My friend Arthur Barham, whose handle is Merlot2Muscadine, joined me in sipping this wine. I told him I was bumfuzzled by the aroma and he encouraged me to swirl and sniff deeper, then enjoy the unique and pleasant scent of Muscadine. It offers peach and apricot notes with flavors of bruised apple and mushroom. Allowing the wine to warm in the glass provides layers of complexity that I didn’t expect from Muscadine.

Tasting these wines was an experience that helped me expand my palate and my thinking. I’m anxious to see the tasty fruits of Erik Martella’s crusade. The wines are priced at $46 for Summer Time and $52 for the CVB Sparkling. See the Erik Martella website for ordering. 

Be Sure To Visit These Four Finger Lakes Wineries

Scenic view from Sheldrake Point Winery on Lake Cayuga

The Finger Lakes offer world-class wineries and standout scenery.

During our recent trip to the Finger Lakes region in New York, we experienced four must-see wineries. Add them to your itinerary for your next visit to this area that ranks as one of our favorites.

The Finger Lakes got their name from the Native Americans who lived in the region. They believed the lakes were the fingerprints of the Great Spirit. Viewed from the air, they do indeed look like outstretched fingers. There are six major Finger Lakes and the largest two – Seneca and Cayuga – are among the deepest in North America.

The lakes, gouged out by glaciers during the Pleistocene Era, are not only scenic but the main reason the area is known for superior wine. The lakes hold warmth during the winter, moderating the cold temperature, and the water reflects the sunlight for the vines. The sloping vineyards are oriented to maximize sunshine allowing the grapes to develop acidity and complex flavors.

Co-owner Colleen Hardy and Living Roots winery

Living Roots Wine & Co. – Hammondsport, NY

Living Roots is both a winery in the Finger Lakes as well as the Adelaide Hills of Australia. The Hammondsport tasting room opened in September 2023, but the roots of the effort are much deeper.

Owned by Sebastian and Colleen Hardy, the wine journey began in 1850 when Sebastian’s great-great-great grandfather immigrated to Australia and started a 160-year family winemaking tradition. Sebastian grew up in his father's vineyards and he and Coleen, who grew up in Rochester, met during harvest in 2014.

Today an urban winery in Rochester, the Finger Lakes winery, and their Adelaide Hills winery and cellar door, comprise Living Roots Wine & Co. We’ve visited more than 50 Finger Lakes wineries and Living Roots, on Lake Keuka, has the most spectacular tasting room views. The tasting room is spacious, stylish, and the perfect location to relax with a glass of wine.

There is plenty to love with the wine selection. In addition to the line of Session sparkling wines, we were captivated by the 2020 Off Dry  Riesling's tasty “noble rot,” tropical notes, and rich mouthfeel. The 2021 Cabernet Franc exemplifies everything that makes Finger Lakes Cab Franc a world-class wine. A cooler vintage, it offers savory notes and plenty of red fruit. The 2021 Grenache, from old bush vines in Australia’s McLaren Vale, is vibrant and juicy.

Winemaker Jordan Harris and Heron Hill Winery

Heron Hill Winery -- Hammondsport, NY

Heron Hill's wines have a beautiful style, matched by the magnificent winery building on Keuka Lake. The architectural gem was designed by New York City architect Charles Warren and features a tasting room with a vaulted ceiling reminiscent of the inside of a wine barrel. The trademark tower is a beacon for wine lovers, guiding them to an exceptional tasting experience.

In 1972, John and Jo Ingles planted 20 acres of grapes on Lake Canandaigua. When they were unable to sell their grapes, due to that year's statewide bumper crop, they decided to build Heron Hill Winery on Lake Keuka. The winery has been producing exceptional wine since 1977 and grapes from the original Ingles Vineyard now is used in top single-vineyard bottlings for Heron Hill.

The 2022 Classic Dry Riesling is an energetic wine bursting forth with lemon and peach notes, with ample fruit to balance the acidity. Minerality lingers with the long finish. Dancing Bear is a new label and we found the 2023 Blaufrankisch Rose to be crisp and vibrant with sour cherry flavors. 

The 2020 Ingles Vineyard Pinot Noir was a surprise. We've never figured Pinot to be high in the pantheon of Finger Lakes grapes, but with the proper site selection and canopy management, Heron Hill delivers a winning cool-climate Pinot Noir. Enjoyable threads of black raspberry, cola, and violet highlight this wine, which has a limited production run of 156 cases.

The Ryan William Tasting Barn

Ryan William Vineyard -- Hector, NY

The focal point of Ryan William Vineyard is the Tasting Barn. A 150-year-old canted queen post barn, the Tasting Barn was originally used to store hay. It fell into disrepair but was purchased, disassembled, restored, and reassembled. It opened in 2016 as the winery tasting room and a Finger Lakes showcase.

The Tasting Barn features a cafe run by Ryan's wife Samira. The menu features an array of lunch and brunch items and includes everything from quiche to steamed mussels. Many of the menu ingredients are sourced from the animals raised and produce grown on the pastures and fields of the 76-acre farm upon which the barn sits. Wine tastings and wine by the glass or bottle are also offered.

Ryan William grows Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah. All grapes used are estate-grown.

We found the 2020 Reserve Cabernet Franc/Merlot to be a sumptuous drinking experience. Filled with juicy plum and cherry notes, the addition of Merlot gives a velvety mouthfeel. This is a rewarding wine and deserving of the "reserve" label. This was our first visit, but we shall return.

Winemaker Dave Breeden and Sheldrake Point Winery

Sheldrake Point Winery -- Ovid, NY

Sheldrake Point Winery is named for the prominent point of land on which it sits, located on the western shore of Cayuga Lake. This is usually on our list of wineries to visit as it is a short drive from locations on the eastern side of Seneca Lake. The beauty of the location and the outstanding wines keep bringing us back.

The winery was founded in 1997 and today 60 acres are under vine. Sheldrake produces 8,500 cases of estate-grown and bottled table and ice wines. You can also visit Sheldrake by boat, which makes for an amazing day.

Our favorite over the years has been the Meritage, a bodacious blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2020 Reserve Meritage gives a delicious burst of blackberry and blueberries with medium tannins and complexity on the palate. Riesling lovers should try the Wild Ferment Riesling as well as the winery-exclusive Acid Head Riesling. Don't be put off by the latter's name, it is part of the experimental Beta label and the lemon and green apple flavors balance nicely with the dialed-up acid.

The tasting room is open daily. Tastings of library wines are available in the Vintage Room at $50 per person.

Blowing Rock, NC, Visit Includes Grandfather Mountain And Wineries

The Charm of Blowing Rock, NC

Blowing Rock is a charming town in the mountains of Western North Carolina. The town offers scenic beauty, great restaurants, plenty of hiking, and is near several wineries. With the temperatures headed to heat index highs, we decided to head for the cool hills of North Carolina’s High Country.

For accommodations, we can recommend the Meadowbrook Inn, a boutique hotel just two blocks from downtown. Main Street offers just about anything a person could want. About 30 restaurants are inside the village and you'll also find a brewery and wine bar within a short walk. There are also interesting shops aplenty and a market to replenish your supplies.

Dining In Blowing Rock

One thing we learned is that you need to make dinner reservations far in advance, perhaps two weeks or even a month. Some of the top restaurants are closed on Monday or Tuesday, making the hunt for sustenance even more challenging.

We were delighted with our choices, first was the Hearth @ the Embers. Although this is a restaurant inside a hotel, the food and service were impeccable. Blowing Rock and the surrounding area is one of the few places in North Carolina where trout fishing flourishes. You must eat local trout when you dine in Blowing Rock. The trout at the Hearth was delicious and the sleek, upscale decor added to our dining experience.

Main Street Blowing Rock, dessert at Hearth and Chicken entree at Storie Street Grill

Our other dinner choice was Storie Street Grille, a funky farm-to-table restaurant on Main Street. Be sure to try the Mountain Reuby, their take on a rustic open-faced Reuben sandwich. It has corned beef sausages, sweet potato mash, sauteed spinach, sauerkraut, and cider mustard. This is a fun restaurant with a casual vibe and top-notch craft cocktails.

Hollywood & Vine is a wine shop around the corner from Main Street with a front porch that serves as an ideal location for sipping and people-watching. When we returned from our town walking tour, we decided to sip some bubbly and chilled rose and unwind before returning to the hotel. The bottle shop has a wonderful selection and the by-the-glass menu has plenty of options.

Grandfather Mountain and The Mile High Swinging Bridge

Grandfather Mountain is one of the jewels of North Carolina, a rugged peak that ascends to 5,946 feet and encompasses 16 distinct ecological communities. Until 2008 the mountain was privately owned and operated as a nature preserve and tourist attraction. Today, 2,600 acres of the undeveloped portion of the mountain comprise Grandfather Mountain State Park. The Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation manages the 720 acres that include the famous Mile High Swinging Bridge, Nature Museum, and Animal Habitats.

Be prepared for high winds on Grandfather Mountain

The $28 per person admission (with AAA discount) is almost as steep as the mountain, but we found it worth every penny. Our first destination was the Mile High Swinging Bridge. While temperatures at home in the Raleigh area were in the 90s edging to 100, it was in the 60s at the top of the mountain. There was also a 20 to 30 MPH wind that made any thought of wearing a hat a prelude to disaster.

The Green Dragon, knowing my fear of heights, was anxious to see me attempt to walk across the swinging bridge dangling above an 80-foot gorge at an altitude of exactly 5,280 feet. Apparently, she thought this would be a rope bridge with wooden planks. Much to my relief, it had sturdy aluminum footing with sturdy metal cables supporting it.

Magnificent views surround you as you walk across. On the other side, the lofty views continue to amaze. You can also walk out further on a rocky promontory if you dare.

We walked through the wildlife habitat area and were pleased to see elk with massive horns. There are also viewing areas for mountain lions, otters, and bears.

Grandfather Vineyard & Winery

Our trail of choice was Black Rock, two miles in length. What the trail description doesn’t say is that there is no real path. Most of the way you are hopping from one rock to another. Halfway out, a thunderstorm came pouring through the trees. Luckily we found shelter in a large cave before heading back.

If you plan on hiking, be prepared with water, a waterproof jacket, and good hiking shoes. Conditions can change quickly on the mountain.

Grandfather Vineyard & Winery

Our first winery visit was to Grandfather Vineyard & Winery, which opened in 2011. It’s located in the Appalachian High Country AVA, which encompasses parts of three states: North Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia. The unifying factor is the height of the terrain. The average height of vineyards is over 3,000 feet.

The elevation of Grandfather Vineyard is 3,300 feet. The Watauga flows through the property, and we quickly grabbed a table next to the gurgling water. We decided on two flights, one dry and the other the “staff spotlight.”

Standout wines included the Pinot Noir Rose and the Big Boulder red blend, made from Merlot, Carignan, and Marquette. There is plenty of covered seating here with scenic views of the river and hillside vineyard. A packed calendar of events at the vineyard features food trucks and musical performances.

Linville Falls Winery

Linville Falls Winery has its roots in a Christmas tree farm started by Jack Wiseman. The opening of the winery in 2012 was the culmination of a dream he had for 60 years. Today the family-run winery specializes in high-mountain wine and exceptional hospitality.

Linville Falls Winery

Granddaughter Lindsay Wiseman, who handles the wine club and special events, explains that high-elevation vineyards result in distinctive wines. “It’s a very different ballgame,” she said. “Here it is more about acidity, freshness, and lower alcohol. It’s a cooler climate.” The rocky soil is known for producing excellent Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.  

On the patio, we had an expansive view of the hillside vines and the picturesque grounds. It’s a beautiful and tranquil setting to sip wine – so we did.

Favorites included the 2021 Cascade, a white wine made from North Carolina Pinot Gris grapes, and the Red Barn Blend, their take on a Super Tuscan wine. It includes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Petit Verdot. Their flagship wine is the estate-grown Dry Riesling, be sure to grab a taste.

Blowing Rock and the surrounding High Country of North Carolina is a revitalizing destination, filled with memorable vistas, outstanding food, and great wine.