Jeff Runquist And The Quest For Authentic Excellence In Wine

Signature wines are fine, but exploration keeps you fresh and alive.

Deep Roots In Winemaking

Award-winning winemaker Jeff Runquist is on top of his game right now. Jeff Runquist Wines in Amador County was named winery of the year in an international competition and took the lion’s share of honors in the prestigious Critics Challenge and San Francisco Chronicle wine competitions.

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Although he focuses on a few select competitions, the accolades are telling. They are the result of years of trial and experience in the California wine industry. Runquist is an overnight success 37 years in the making.

He began in 1977 as an intern with Paul Masson while studying at UC Davis. Stints at Montevina in Amador County and Napa Valley Cooperative Winery followed. In 1990 he became winemaker at J. Lohr and soon got the itch to make his own wine. In 1997 he released 700 cases of Zinfandel under his own label.

“Jerry Lohr planted in Greenfield (in Monterey County) in the ‘70s,” recalls Runquist. “He was the only person who planted more than 250 vines who didn’t go bankrupt. Jerry was nimble. He took the rootstock and grafted to cooler climate varieties. You’ve got to have the right grapes for the right climate. If not, it’s like pushing water uphill.”

Being Nimble And Curious

Jeff Runquist Wines relies on 16 growers from different parts of Northern and Central California. It’s one reason he is able to be nimble and versatile.

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“I built the winery on a bare piece of ground,” says Runquist. “I didn’t have any vines and when I started I didn’t have two nickels to rub together.”

He didn’t want to risk the investment of planting a vineyard and instead looked to source his grapes. “I thought I’d focus on Zinfandel, but I was offered Sangiovese and Barbera,” Runquist said. The availability of an assortment of grape varieties plus his own curiosity resulted in a wide-ranging portfolio of wines.

Many a winemaker would have been satisfied to hang their hat on Zinfandel. Instead, Runquist uses up to 25 different varieties. “It’s like a chef,” Runquist explains, “you may have a signature dish, but don’t you get tired of it?” Working with the different grapes keeps him fresh, alive and inquisitive.

“I have the growers and enthusiasm,” said Runquist explaining the wide range of his limited-production wines. “I like to try things. Sometimes these are things we’ve tasted elsewhere, sometimes it’s a dare or a challenge.”

He explains it is part of his business model. If you want to learn about red wine, he says, you can join the JRW wine club and receive 12 or 24 bottles a year – each different. Indeed, the list of 2020 JRW releases includes rare gems like Teroldego, Charbono, Alicante Bouschet, Muscat Canelli, Dolcetto, Tannat, Graciano, and Touriga in addition to acclaimed Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Barbera. Some releases are less than 125 cases.

Grounded In The Foothills

He could have starred anywhere in California’s wine country, but Runquist chose Amador County in the Sierra Foothills. “This is where I grew up making wine,” he said. “It’s an interesting area. I’ve always felt most welcomed here and economically it works.”

Growing Zinfandel in the area can sometimes be a challenge, but the Barbera is magnificent. “I probably drink the most of Barbera,” Runquist said. “We also make some outstanding Dolcetto. It’s got more color and substance than any I’ve tasted.”

Amador County also provides varied microclimates that yield different nuances to the same grape. The Massoni Ranch Vineyard has a low elevation and its Zinfandel is supple with black fruit. The Nostro Vino Vineyard, on the other hand, is the last to warm up and is picked about a month later than Massoni Ranch. Cooler nights create more acidity and a balanced, darkly colored wine. All told, JRW produces five different Zinfandels plus a Primitivo.

The Dick Cooper Vineyard is famed for its Barbera. “We’ve made Barbera from six or seven other sources,” said Runquist, “Dick’s always has a little extra top note of lavender and violet that you don’t get at other vineyards.”

Runquist sees experimentation with different varieties in the future for Amador County. “The trend is to look for an alternative to Zin,” said Runquist. While the quality is outstanding for Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Barbera, there has been little expansion in Zinfandel plantings and other red grapes, such as Rhone or Spanish varieties, are being explored. No one has yet found “the” white grape for the region.

Quality In The Glass

A sip of the 2018 Dick Cooper Vineyard Barbera neatly clarifies the excitement around Jeff Runquist Wines. It swaddles your palate with a velvety texture of ripe, red strawberries and raspberries. Toastiness and a touch of earth give a bottom end to the flowing, rounded wine. There are no harsh tannins to interfere with your enjoyment. That’s a theme with JRW.

The wines are all barrel-aged and there are subdued tannins that provide a unifying structure. While the wines can certainly age, they are drinking beautifully right now.

“Our goal is to create a rich, full-flavored wine,” said Runquist. “We try to pack in as much flavor as possible and keep the tannins to a minimum. We want a representation of the grape, not shoe leather, chalk or dust.”

Full disclosure: Wine was received as a marketing sample.

Wine And Cider Fortunes Boosted By Oregon Collaborative Efforts

Busting into the craft beverage market, be it wine or cider, can be an expensive and daunting proposition. In Oregon entrepreneurial souls share resources, combine marketing efforts and collaborate for success.

All Together Now

Wine collaboratives are a common thing in Europe. Individual winegrowers don’t have the wherewithal to pay for all the equipment to vint or store their wine, let alone market it. So, these farmers become part of a commune or collaborative where the costs can be borne collectively.

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During our recent visit to Oregon we saw two impressive examples of cooperation.  Son of Man Basque cidery in Cascade Locks and the Southeast Wine Collective in Portland provide collaboration that is boosting craft cider and wine and feeding the entrepreneurial spirit.

Son Of Man… And Family

Jasper Smith is a cider maker, albeit an unconventional one. Not content to make your typical hard cider and open a tasting room in Portland, or say Hood River, he decided to focus on sagardo, a Basque-style cider. For his tasting room, he picked out a large warehouse building in Cascade Locks. The facility can easily accommodate 150 for events.

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Son of Man opened in the summer of 2018. Making sagardo requires four months of fermentation in oversized oak barrels called foeders. It is dry, complex and is a perfect complement for a good meal. Using wild fermentation, Oregon apples and no filtering or fining, Son of Man Sagardo is a tart treat.

But don’t just pour yourself a glass. Heavens no. To truly enjoy sagardo, you must use the “long pour.” Hold your glass as far away from the bottle as possible, or if you are at Son of Man, get ready to catch the stream of cider shooting straight from the spigot. The long pour aerates the cider and creates its signature bubbles.

As if this wildly successful cider startup isn’t enough, the Son of Man building also houses two small production wineries rapidly gaining notoriety: The Color Collector and Buona Notte. Bethany Kimmel is the owner and winemaker for The Color Collector (TC Collector to friends). Her focus is Gamay Noir, of which there is roughly 30 acres planted in Oregon. The grape is low in alcohol, but high in acidity and fruit. The small production runs are avidly sought by a growing circle of wine connoisseurs.The 2017 TC Collector Gamay Noir undergoes carbonic maceration before being lightly pressed and aged in neutral oak. It’s one reason Gamay is creating excitement in Oregon.

Graham Markel is the force behind Buona Notte wines, a critical favorite that is showing up in area wine shops such as Park Avenue Fine Wines in Portland. The wines are crafted from Italian varieties Sangiovese and Dolcetto with Sauvignon Blanc also offered. The Rosa Rosé of Dolcetto beautifully blends acidity and structure to create a perfect pairing with grilled fish. The grapes come from the Columbia Gorge AVA, which includes portions in both Oregon and Washington. The Cento Per Cento Sangiovese is another beautiful bottle showing graceful cherry notes with a dash of spice. Buona Notte also produces Vermouth, made from rosé of Pinot Noir with herbs and botanicals.

Son Of Man Cider is an appealing destination with cider, wine and special events. Although it is located in an unassuming warehouse building, the rear doors open to a beautiful view of the Columbia River and is close to the attraction of the Cascade Locks.

Keeping Portland Collaborative

With the cost of a single French oak barrel ranging up to $2,000, it’s no surprise that winemaking is an expensive proposition. Portland’s Southeast Wine Collective is helping wine creatives by sharing resources, trading knowledge and bolstering spirits.

The Southeast Wine Collective is an urban winery and custom crush facility that also features Oui! Wine Bar and Restaurant where you can taste the wines produced onsite. SWC was founded by Kate Norris and Tom Monroe and opened in 2012.

Division Winemaking Company is the winery of Kate and Tom and is based at the SWC facility. SWC offers state-of-the-art equipment and highly skilled staff needed for everything from harvest crush, fermentation, blending, and aging to filtration and bottling. At any given time, there are member wineries and others that utilize the custom crush services. After their launch, some wineries build their own tasting rooms or production facilities and move to the “alumni” category.

During our visit, Day Wines, Gamine, Viola Wine Cellars and Esper Cellars wines were tasted in addition to those from Division. Standouts included the Day 2018 “Babycheeks,” a rosé of Malbec, Tannat, and Cabernet Franc from the Rogue Valley; Gamine 2016 Grenache; a delightful Esper 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley; Viola 2017 Aromatica Traminette, Columbia Gorge; and the Division 2012 “Deux” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley.

With so many member wineries and space at a premium in its urban location, keeping the wine production process flowing is a challenge. Production equipment, barrels and bottling must be tightly scheduled.  “We’ve learned to make wine by playing a grab game of Tetris,” said Monroe. “That’s the price you pay for having a winery in your neighborhood.”

The Southeast Wine Collective brings wine country to urban Portland, another example of how creativity and collaboration equal beautifully expressive wines in Oregon.

You may also enjoy:

Cross Border Cooperation Fuels Oregon And Washington Winemaking

Kiona Vineyards and Hightower Cellars Deliver Excellence In Washington’s Red Mountain AVA

Daring And Diverse Wine Flows From The Columbia Gorge AVA

Technorati Tags: Oregon wine,Rogue Valley,Willamette Valley,Pinot Noir,Traminette,Rosé,wine tasting,wineries

Women Emerging As Family Winery Leaders

From marketing brands to making the wines, or managing the winery, these women at family owned wineries often do it all.

Vineyard Brands is a small wine importer that handles family wineries exclusively. Three of those wineries feature  a trio of women who are making their mark on the wine world: Amélie Dugue-Couillaud of Frères Couillaud in the Loire Valley, Berene Sauls of Tesselaarsdal Wines of South Africa, and Olive Hamilton-Russell of Hamilton Russell Vineyards of South Africa.

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While these three inspirational women own or co-own wineries, their path to wine is very different. United by wine, a love for their families, and a desire to be part of a wine legacy around the globe, these women strive for success in all aspects of their businesses.

Born Into Wine: Amélie Dugue-Couillaud, Frères Couillaud

Why the wine business?

“I was born in it! I lived surrounded by vines. For my sister and me, our playground was the Muscadet vineyard. My dad has always been passionate about wine and travel, and he passed these two passions down to me. I’m the seventh generation of winemaker and it’s so special to be able to be part of this family story. Every day is different. The wine business is also about human relationships, sharing moments and time with partners and family and friends from around the world…and always around wine and food. What is better than that?”

Amélie Dugue-Couillaud of Frères Couillaud

What is the biggest challenge for you—as a woman and as a business person? And on the flip-side, what gives you the most joy in the wines business?

“Day to day the biggest challenge is just finding time, just like many working women. I have four children and work full-time. Need I say more? But for me, it’s all about finding a balance between time with my family and the excitement of work. From the vineyards to the cellar, seeing everyone try to do their very best for the winery gives me so much happiness. No matter the job, each member of the team is so important and part of our success.”

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“Keep your motivation- remember why you started and don’t stay in your corner. People will feel your passion.”

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If you hadn’t been in the wine business, what would you have done?

“No question, I would have been a painter. I love to paint. Maybe one day I still will…when I find enough time.”

Grew Into Wine: Olive Hamilton-Russell, Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Olive Hamilton-Russell of
Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Why the wine business?

“Quite honestly, love. I grew up on a cattle farm in South Africa, where wine isn’t really part of the way of life. I moved to the Cape to study food science and nutrition before moving to London for work. It was when I moved to London and worked in the food department at Harvey Nichols that I started to learn about wine and realized how fascinating it is. That experience led me to take wine appreciation courses. When I returned to South Africa, I met Anthony who had just bought Hamilton Russell Vineyards from his family. We are so grateful to do something we love, together.”

What is the biggest challenge for you—as a woman and as a business person? And on the flipside, what gives you the most joy in the wines business?

“Managing time is probably my biggest daily challenge. Balancing time spent engaged in the various aspects of the business—the vineyard, cellar, finance, sales and marketing, hosting visitors, local and international travel—and also time with family requires so much planning. And ensuring we have the right team both day to day and long term, so that hopefully wine will be made on our farm for years to come. But all the work to upgrade this special piece of earth we are lucky enough to live on brings us endless joy—whether it’s organic and some biodynamic farming practices, planting more indigenous trees, clearing our nature reserve of invasive alien species, properly establishing beehives. And of course, sharing our wines and the happiness they bring is pretty special.”

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“To always stay positive!”

If you hadn’t been in the wine business, what would you have done?

“I am a farm girl at heart. And I love the wine business because it is farming and so much more. I honestly can’t think of anything else that could bring me such fulfillment.”

Found Wine: Berene Sauls, Tesselaarsdal

Berene Sauls of Tesselaarsdal Wines

Why the wine business?

“I started my career at a wine estate in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Hamilton Russell Vineyards. But not in the wine business. I was an au pair for the family who owned the estate. But I was very curious to know why the wines were so sought after and decided to learn and experience the delicate process from grape to bottle. I assisted in the cellar and vineyard during harvests, in the wine certification
administration, and even export logistics and packaging. After a few years, Anthony Hamilton Russell presented me with the opportunity to start my own wine business as a wine producer. I focused on Pinot Noir and my palate was basically shaped by these wines. I named my business Tesselaarsdal, the name of my hometown.

What is the biggest challenge for you—as a woman and as a business person? And on the flipside, what gives you the most joy in the wines business?

“I am involved in every aspect- from picking the grapes to stomping, punch downs, bottling and labeling. I handle marketing by myself and I head up a team of six ladies that assist with packaging, stock control, and more. Balancing all the aspects of the business and making sure each customer knows that each bottle was personally handled, and great care and effort went into the product is a challenge. But it is also such a joy to experience the success of each vintage and the feedback from consumers all around the world. Knowing that this is the legacy I leave for my two sons Darren and Calem is very special.”

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“Never compromise on quality.”

If you hadn’t been in the wine business, what would you have done?

“I had no idea what I wanted to do after school. I enrolled as a fighting officer in the South African Defense Force just after finishing school!”

Old World Style Suits Pastoral Winemaker Darek Trowbridge

This winemaker treads a different path. Avoiding “crafty” winemaking ideas, he let’s nature take its course and the results are remarkable.

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Photos by Adrian Mendoza

Family Roots Run Deep

Old World Winery winemaker Darek Trowbridge is just doing what comes naturally. A great grandson of Giuseppe Martinelli, who started growing grapes in California’s Russian River Valley in the 1800s, wine is in his blood. He follows a different roadmap than many other Sonoma wineries as he crafts natural wines with minimal intervention.

Darek grew up working in the vineyard and idolized his grandfather, who he affectionately calls a peasant farmer. Pursuing the family trade, he earned his degree in viticulture and enology at Fresno State. Something, though, was missing.

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“There was a difference between how my grandfather made wine and how they taught me in college,” said Trowbridge. “I don’t want this to be a corporate job. I asked myself, ‘How do I do something different?’” The answer was natural wine.

Darek says he was called to make wine as it was done in the Old World, hence his winery’s name. Old World Winery is a Certified Craft Winery and his title is “pastoral winemaker,” which evokes images of a shepherd leading a flock, or in this case grapes through the winemaking process. “It’s all about inviting nature into what I’m doing,” said Trowbridge. “When people see my title, they know something different is going on.”

Keeping It Natural

The “different” that’s going on is natural winemaking. “Everyone thinks wines are natural,” said Trowbridge, “but people only know what they know.” While grapes and vineyards may earn certification as organic or biodynamic, once into the winery a wide array of manipulations can take place, changing the character of the wine.

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“With each step as a winemaker, you can make a decision,” he said. “I want to honor the place instead of me or my winery. I try not to have crafty winemaking ideas.”

Natural wines are those that are farmed organically and made without adding or removing anything in the cellar. In line with this, no additives or processing aids are present with the exception of a minimal amount of protective sulfur in the barrel.

The “wild”  fermentation process is used utilizing naturally occurring yeast. The wines typically are not fined (a process to clarify the wine) nor filtered.

Using wild fermentation can be an uncertain thing. Commercial yeasts can add known flavors and characteristics. Darek points out that this is a necessity for high volume wineries as they seek to turn over tanks to make the next batch.

“I have a whole different idea,” says Trowbridge. “I am the the farmer. How can I make this taste the way it is supposed to taste. I want to distill it down to its essence.” Although he suffered the loss of a couple of barrels of wine during a difficult time last year, he still considers wild fermentation the way and an amazing thing.

Surprisingly, he doesn’t have a destemmer, crusher or wine press – instead pressing is done by foot. “It was not my master plan,” said Trowbridge. “I had a crew that did this, but the customers were so interested they really wanted to do it. The people develop a comradery. There’s a community aspect. It’s something we’ll continue to do.”

Obscure And Rare Grapes

The first vines planted by Darek were grapes he received from his cousin. He became known for Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. The real prize, however, is the rare grapes you will find almost nowhere else.

The 1890 block features Muscadelle, Tousseau Gris, Palomino (also known as Golden Chasselas), Mondeuse Noir, Abouriou, and Zinfandel. These grapes are used in the Chianti-like Abundance, which retails for $45. The Sherry Martinelli Vineyard features the only four acres of Abouriou (a Basque variety), that exist in the entire New World. Luminous ($45 SRP) is 100% Abouriou.

The “1890 Block” is currently sold out, but is a field blend of three red and three white grapes. Darek describes it as somewhere between a rosé and a red. In a field blend, the different grapes aren’t separated, but grow together and go through winemaking that way. Old World also offers a port-style wine, cider and a couple choices of Syrah.

Nature flows from the field to the bottle at Old World Winery. Sustainable farming practices include the use of native cover crops and dry farming.

The winemaking philosophy of Darek Trowbridge is simple. “It’s inviting nature,” he said. “I want to let the wine be what it should be.” The results are superb – naturally.

Technorati Tags: wine,California wine,Russian River Valley,winemaker

Three Wine, Cheese And Food Books To Savor

Need a good read to tide you over to the spring thaw? We found three three books that should be on your bookshelf now.

The Winemaker Cooks: Menus, Parties and Pairings by Christine Hanna, Photos by Sheri Giblin

I couldn’t use a photo of my copy of this cookbook by Christine Hanna of Hanna Winery and Vineyards in Sonoma. That copy is stained by aioli sauce, noodles and unidentified meal ingredients. We received this book during a recent visit to Hanna’s Alexander Valley tasting room. We had the opportunity to meet Chris Hanna and have a sensational meal overlooking the vineyards.

When we got home, my wife (aka Green Dragon) used the recipes in the book for a wine pairing bash we hosted. The recipes were as promised, “wine country style with its hallmark of casual elegance.”

The book is organized by seasons. Each season has dinner menus followed by recipes, plus there are menus for other occasions, such as springtime brunch, summer dinner under the stars, harvest picnic in the vineyard and holiday open house. The picnic includes recipes for French Lentil, Prosciutto and Pepper Salad as well as Pan-Seared Five-Spice Duck Breast with Balsamic Jus. There are many recipes to try and love – sprinkled with bites of knowledge from the winemaker.

The book is published by Chronicle Books and can be found on Amazon.

The Winemakers of Paso Robles by Julia Perez, Words by Paul Hodgins

This splendid book is one to be savored a chapter or two at a time, like sipping a glass of fine Paso Robles red. Paso Robles is a region that has a long history in wine, reaching back to the 1840s, but in the last two decades it has emerged as the Mecca of ultra-premium California wine. When the AVA was founded in 1983, there were 17 wineries. Today there are more than 200 and over 32,000 acres of vineyards.

The catalyst has been a group of unique and unlikely winemakers. Their stories are told in magnificent photos by Perez and engaging narrative by Hodgins. The book is large (15.7 x 13.5 x 2.3 inches), a perfect size to showcase the insightful portraits and striking shots of the vineyards, wineries and wine.

Winemakers featured include the known, like Justin Baldwin of ISOCELES fame, and little known, like former NFL player Terry Hoage and wife Jennifer of micro-producer TH Estates. The story of Tobin James, the maverick winemaker of the region, is related, detailing how he got his start by making wine from Zinfandel grapes the truck driver was trying to dump. James ended up marrying the truck driver’s daughter.

Fifty-six winemakers are featured. We’d suggest a glass of a Paso Robles wine per chapter. This magnificent book is available at The Winemakers Series or Amazon for $85.

Cheese & Wine: A Guide to Selecting, Pairing, and Enjoying by Janet Fletcher, Photos by Victoria Pearson

Janet Fletcher is a food columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle and winner of two James Beard Awards for her writing. She also makes a mean homemade Ricotta. During a recent visit to Beringer Winery in Napa during the Wine Bloggers Conference we saw her demonstrate cheesemaking.

Her love of cheese and wine shine through this 143-page book. The heart of the book is profiles of 70 cheeses with origins and descriptions as well as suggested wine pairings. The book organizes the cheeses by cheese platter themes, such as “Salute to Spain” and “Aging Gracefully.” There’s also great information on strategies for harmonious wine and cheese pairings, handling and serving cheese, and a convenient table showing cheese options for various wines.

This is a volume that should be on the bookshelf of any wine lover, and off the shelf at your next party. Published by Chronicle Books at $24.95.