French-American Partnership Boosts Forge Cellars Riesling Excellence

The Finger Lakes wine region, specializing in cool climate wines and regularly garnering accolades from wine media, is the premier US location for Riesling. During the last 15 years, I’ve visited the area repeatedly and have sampled some heavenly Riesling. Now there may be a new king of Riesling in the region.

Article and Photos by Dave Nershi, CSW

Forge Cellars is a collaboration between French wine vigneron Louis Barruol and US wine industry veteran Rick Rainey. It is located on Seneca Lake’s east side and offers a spectacular lake view.  The Salon, a stylish alpine-inspired tasting room, offers indoor and outdoor seating.

This was my first visit to Forge, although I have sampled their wine before. They debuted with the 2011 vintage. At that time, the wines were being poured at the Hector Wine Company and they started with a few hundred cases of dry Riesling. In 2023 they produced 10,000 cases and have a goal of producing 13,000.

The international collaboration is indicative of the growing worldwide attention the Finger Lakes is receiving.  In fact, Forge Cellars wine is available in England, Sweden, and even Japan.

Barruol comes from 14 generations of winemaking tradition. His family has been located in the Rhône Valley village of Gigondas since the 16^th century. In 1992 he took over the Château de St. Cosme estate, regarded as the finest in Gigondas.

Rainey is a master of the wine business, spending more than 20 years in all aspects of distribution and working as a buyer for a French wine portfolio. With a goal of one day owning a winery, he naturally gravitated to partnerships with growers – something essential for Forge.

Rick has the commercial vision and helped create the Forge tasting salon and Louis has decades of winemaking knowledge essential to create elevated wines. The amazing partnership has created a Finger Lakes phenomenon.

During our recent visit, we were greeted by winemaker Léana Godard. A native of France, she earned an oenology degree from the University of Bordeaux and served as Louis’ intern and mentee at Château de St. Cosme.  She began work at Forge Cellars in 2018 and split her time between France and the US before transitioning to the Finger Lakes in 2022.

Although Forge produces Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, the shining star is Riesling. Forge offers 11 single vineyard Rieslings plus a Classique bottling, which is a blend of all the single vineyard bottlings. It’s almost too joyful for a Riesling lover to endure.

The vineyards used are located on an eight-mile stretch of the southeast side of Seneca Lake. The varied soils, elevations, and proximity to the lake give each vineyard a distinctive personality. The unifying factor for all the sites is shale. The shale helps the soil retain heat and promotes good drainage. It’s brittle, so the roots can go deep in their search for nutrients. This slice of terroir enjoys warmer temperatures than most of the Finger Lakes region, earning its name as the "Banana Belt."

Each of the single vineyard Rieslings is commendable. Here are my personal favorites:

2021 Willow Vineyard is delicate and finessed with no biting, a nuanced wine with tropical fruit notes.

2022 Wagner Caywood East is from a sloping, windswept vineyard at 978 feet of elevation. It has a beautiful freshness with an accent on minerality.

2022 Bellows Vineyard is from rocky and gravelly soil and has concentrated flavors of honeydew and citrus blossom.

The 2022 Breakneck Creek Vineyard has herbal notes and a vibrant nature. Green apple, peach, and minerality add to the complexity.

The 2021 Classique is a snapshot of Forge Cellars, using grapes from all the vineyards and requiring a tasting of 50 or so different samples to get just the right mix. Look for tree fruit flavors with citrus and a touch of creaminess. Classique accounts for about one-third of Forge's sales.

Forge Cellars is a must-visit destination in the Finger Lakes. Its old-style European winemaking blends seamlessly with the delicious cool-climate Riesling grapes from the Finger Lakes. The hospitality and comfort in the Salon is second to none in the region. 

Erik Martella Blazing New Trail With Muscadine Wines

Can Muscadine grapes produce truly elevated American wines?

Erik Martella spent nearly two decades as a winemaker and winery manager for some of California’s largest and most recognizable brands. In 2018 he left the world of corporate winemaking and returned to family roots, eventually settling in Western North Carolina.

His latest endeavor has a twist. Working with winery and vineyard partners in North Carolina, he is crafting small-batch limited releases of American fine wines crafted with Muscadine grapes.

Muscadine Grapes Are A Southern Favorite

North Carolina is awash with Muscadine grapes, with about 1,200 acres currently grown in the state. Many are made into sweet red and white wines. These are good-time wines for picnics and summertime fun – but while popular, a good segment of wine lovers dismiss these wines as too sweet and simple.

Instead of trying to duplicate European wines, Martella is determined to elevate these grapes to uniquely American fine wines.

Erik Martella and Red.
Courtesy of Erik Martella Wine

More than 99 percent of the world’s fine wines are made with vitis vinifera grapes. This species gives us Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and a plethora of other recognized wine grapes.

Muscadines, on the other hand, are a different species and are native to the American southeast. They are larger, have looser clusters, thicker skins, and have unique acid and aroma profiles compared to traditional wine grapes. They also have higher concentrations of potentially healthful compounds such as resveratrol.

They are also hardy grapes, resistant to many diseases that plague traditional wine grapes. As a result, Muscadines can often be grown with no pesticides at all. Martella works primarily with two Muscadine grapes, the white Carolos and the red called Noble.

We sampled two releases by Erik Martella. The 2021 CVB Sparkling is a 60/40 blend of Carlos and Vidal Blanc. The varieties were hand-picked and fermented separately, then blended together for a second fermentation using the tank method.

A Puzzling And Distinctive Aroma

Upon sniffing both wines, we were hit with a pungent aroma quite different from a typical white wine. Digging below the musky odor, the fruity aroma of the grapes emerged. This sparkler is unfiltered and spends time on the lees to gain additional complexity. The palate has a layer of toast with a splash of muscadine “grapiness.” There is stone fruit and a dash of citrus. I found myself puzzling about the wine, which evolved in the glass, calling me back for more. This is a small production run with 97 cases produced.

The 2022 Summer Kitchen is 100% Carlos, made in the traditional white wine method. Since I mostly focus on vinifera wines, I called in reinforcements. My friend Arthur Barham, whose handle is Merlot2Muscadine, joined me in sipping this wine. I told him I was bumfuzzled by the aroma and he encouraged me to swirl and sniff deeper, then enjoy the unique and pleasant scent of Muscadine. It offers peach and apricot notes with flavors of bruised apple and mushroom. Allowing the wine to warm in the glass provides layers of complexity that I didn’t expect from Muscadine.

Tasting these wines was an experience that helped me expand my palate and my thinking. I’m anxious to see the tasty fruits of Erik Martella’s crusade. The wines are priced at $46 for Summer Time and $52 for the CVB Sparkling. See the Erik Martella website for ordering. 

Be Sure To Visit These Four Finger Lakes Wineries

Scenic view from Sheldrake Point Winery on Lake Cayuga

The Finger Lakes offer world-class wineries and standout scenery.

During our recent trip to the Finger Lakes region in New York, we experienced four must-see wineries. Add them to your itinerary for your next visit to this area that ranks as one of our favorites.

The Finger Lakes got their name from the Native Americans who lived in the region. They believed the lakes were the fingerprints of the Great Spirit. Viewed from the air, they do indeed look like outstretched fingers. There are six major Finger Lakes and the largest two – Seneca and Cayuga – are among the deepest in North America.

The lakes, gouged out by glaciers during the Pleistocene Era, are not only scenic but the main reason the area is known for superior wine. The lakes hold warmth during the winter, moderating the cold temperature, and the water reflects the sunlight for the vines. The sloping vineyards are oriented to maximize sunshine allowing the grapes to develop acidity and complex flavors.

Co-owner Colleen Hardy and Living Roots winery

Living Roots Wine & Co. – Hammondsport, NY

Living Roots is both a winery in the Finger Lakes as well as the Adelaide Hills of Australia. The Hammondsport tasting room opened in September 2023, but the roots of the effort are much deeper.

Owned by Sebastian and Colleen Hardy, the wine journey began in 1850 when Sebastian’s great-great-great grandfather immigrated to Australia and started a 160-year family winemaking tradition. Sebastian grew up in his father's vineyards and he and Coleen, who grew up in Rochester, met during harvest in 2014.

Today an urban winery in Rochester, the Finger Lakes winery, and their Adelaide Hills winery and cellar door, comprise Living Roots Wine & Co. We’ve visited more than 50 Finger Lakes wineries and Living Roots, on Lake Keuka, has the most spectacular tasting room views. The tasting room is spacious, stylish, and the perfect location to relax with a glass of wine.

There is plenty to love with the wine selection. In addition to the line of Session sparkling wines, we were captivated by the 2020 Off Dry  Riesling's tasty “noble rot,” tropical notes, and rich mouthfeel. The 2021 Cabernet Franc exemplifies everything that makes Finger Lakes Cab Franc a world-class wine. A cooler vintage, it offers savory notes and plenty of red fruit. The 2021 Grenache, from old bush vines in Australia’s McLaren Vale, is vibrant and juicy.

Winemaker Jordan Harris and Heron Hill Winery

Heron Hill Winery -- Hammondsport, NY

Heron Hill's wines have a beautiful style, matched by the magnificent winery building on Keuka Lake. The architectural gem was designed by New York City architect Charles Warren and features a tasting room with a vaulted ceiling reminiscent of the inside of a wine barrel. The trademark tower is a beacon for wine lovers, guiding them to an exceptional tasting experience.

In 1972, John and Jo Ingles planted 20 acres of grapes on Lake Canandaigua. When they were unable to sell their grapes, due to that year's statewide bumper crop, they decided to build Heron Hill Winery on Lake Keuka. The winery has been producing exceptional wine since 1977 and grapes from the original Ingles Vineyard now is used in top single-vineyard bottlings for Heron Hill.

The 2022 Classic Dry Riesling is an energetic wine bursting forth with lemon and peach notes, with ample fruit to balance the acidity. Minerality lingers with the long finish. Dancing Bear is a new label and we found the 2023 Blaufrankisch Rose to be crisp and vibrant with sour cherry flavors. 

The 2020 Ingles Vineyard Pinot Noir was a surprise. We've never figured Pinot to be high in the pantheon of Finger Lakes grapes, but with the proper site selection and canopy management, Heron Hill delivers a winning cool-climate Pinot Noir. Enjoyable threads of black raspberry, cola, and violet highlight this wine, which has a limited production run of 156 cases.

The Ryan William Tasting Barn

Ryan William Vineyard -- Hector, NY

The focal point of Ryan William Vineyard is the Tasting Barn. A 150-year-old canted queen post barn, the Tasting Barn was originally used to store hay. It fell into disrepair but was purchased, disassembled, restored, and reassembled. It opened in 2016 as the winery tasting room and a Finger Lakes showcase.

The Tasting Barn features a cafe run by Ryan's wife Samira. The menu features an array of lunch and brunch items and includes everything from quiche to steamed mussels. Many of the menu ingredients are sourced from the animals raised and produce grown on the pastures and fields of the 76-acre farm upon which the barn sits. Wine tastings and wine by the glass or bottle are also offered.

Ryan William grows Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Syrah. All grapes used are estate-grown.

We found the 2020 Reserve Cabernet Franc/Merlot to be a sumptuous drinking experience. Filled with juicy plum and cherry notes, the addition of Merlot gives a velvety mouthfeel. This is a rewarding wine and deserving of the "reserve" label. This was our first visit, but we shall return.

Winemaker Dave Breeden and Sheldrake Point Winery

Sheldrake Point Winery -- Ovid, NY

Sheldrake Point Winery is named for the prominent point of land on which it sits, located on the western shore of Cayuga Lake. This is usually on our list of wineries to visit as it is a short drive from locations on the eastern side of Seneca Lake. The beauty of the location and the outstanding wines keep bringing us back.

The winery was founded in 1997 and today 60 acres are under vine. Sheldrake produces 8,500 cases of estate-grown and bottled table and ice wines. You can also visit Sheldrake by boat, which makes for an amazing day.

Our favorite over the years has been the Meritage, a bodacious blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2020 Reserve Meritage gives a delicious burst of blackberry and blueberries with medium tannins and complexity on the palate. Riesling lovers should try the Wild Ferment Riesling as well as the winery-exclusive Acid Head Riesling. Don't be put off by the latter's name, it is part of the experimental Beta label and the lemon and green apple flavors balance nicely with the dialed-up acid.

The tasting room is open daily. Tastings of library wines are available in the Vintage Room at $50 per person.

Blowing Rock, NC, Visit Includes Grandfather Mountain And Wineries

The Charm of Blowing Rock, NC

Blowing Rock is a charming town in the mountains of Western North Carolina. The town offers scenic beauty, great restaurants, plenty of hiking, and is near several wineries. With the temperatures headed to heat index highs, we decided to head for the cool hills of North Carolina’s High Country.

For accommodations, we can recommend the Meadowbrook Inn, a boutique hotel just two blocks from downtown. Main Street offers just about anything a person could want. About 30 restaurants are inside the village and you'll also find a brewery and wine bar within a short walk. There are also interesting shops aplenty and a market to replenish your supplies.

Dining In Blowing Rock

One thing we learned is that you need to make dinner reservations far in advance, perhaps two weeks or even a month. Some of the top restaurants are closed on Monday or Tuesday, making the hunt for sustenance even more challenging.

We were delighted with our choices, first was the Hearth @ the Embers. Although this is a restaurant inside a hotel, the food and service were impeccable. Blowing Rock and the surrounding area is one of the few places in North Carolina where trout fishing flourishes. You must eat local trout when you dine in Blowing Rock. The trout at the Hearth was delicious and the sleek, upscale decor added to our dining experience.

Main Street Blowing Rock, dessert at Hearth and Chicken entree at Storie Street Grill

Our other dinner choice was Storie Street Grille, a funky farm-to-table restaurant on Main Street. Be sure to try the Mountain Reuby, their take on a rustic open-faced Reuben sandwich. It has corned beef sausages, sweet potato mash, sauteed spinach, sauerkraut, and cider mustard. This is a fun restaurant with a casual vibe and top-notch craft cocktails.

Hollywood & Vine is a wine shop around the corner from Main Street with a front porch that serves as an ideal location for sipping and people-watching. When we returned from our town walking tour, we decided to sip some bubbly and chilled rose and unwind before returning to the hotel. The bottle shop has a wonderful selection and the by-the-glass menu has plenty of options.

Grandfather Mountain and The Mile High Swinging Bridge

Grandfather Mountain is one of the jewels of North Carolina, a rugged peak that ascends to 5,946 feet and encompasses 16 distinct ecological communities. Until 2008 the mountain was privately owned and operated as a nature preserve and tourist attraction. Today, 2,600 acres of the undeveloped portion of the mountain comprise Grandfather Mountain State Park. The Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation manages the 720 acres that include the famous Mile High Swinging Bridge, Nature Museum, and Animal Habitats.

Be prepared for high winds on Grandfather Mountain

The $28 per person admission (with AAA discount) is almost as steep as the mountain, but we found it worth every penny. Our first destination was the Mile High Swinging Bridge. While temperatures at home in the Raleigh area were in the 90s edging to 100, it was in the 60s at the top of the mountain. There was also a 20 to 30 MPH wind that made any thought of wearing a hat a prelude to disaster.

The Green Dragon, knowing my fear of heights, was anxious to see me attempt to walk across the swinging bridge dangling above an 80-foot gorge at an altitude of exactly 5,280 feet. Apparently, she thought this would be a rope bridge with wooden planks. Much to my relief, it had sturdy aluminum footing with sturdy metal cables supporting it.

Magnificent views surround you as you walk across. On the other side, the lofty views continue to amaze. You can also walk out further on a rocky promontory if you dare.

We walked through the wildlife habitat area and were pleased to see elk with massive horns. There are also viewing areas for mountain lions, otters, and bears.

Grandfather Vineyard & Winery

Our trail of choice was Black Rock, two miles in length. What the trail description doesn’t say is that there is no real path. Most of the way you are hopping from one rock to another. Halfway out, a thunderstorm came pouring through the trees. Luckily we found shelter in a large cave before heading back.

If you plan on hiking, be prepared with water, a waterproof jacket, and good hiking shoes. Conditions can change quickly on the mountain.

Grandfather Vineyard & Winery

Our first winery visit was to Grandfather Vineyard & Winery, which opened in 2011. It’s located in the Appalachian High Country AVA, which encompasses parts of three states: North Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia. The unifying factor is the height of the terrain. The average height of vineyards is over 3,000 feet.

The elevation of Grandfather Vineyard is 3,300 feet. The Watauga flows through the property, and we quickly grabbed a table next to the gurgling water. We decided on two flights, one dry and the other the “staff spotlight.”

Standout wines included the Pinot Noir Rose and the Big Boulder red blend, made from Merlot, Carignan, and Marquette. There is plenty of covered seating here with scenic views of the river and hillside vineyard. A packed calendar of events at the vineyard features food trucks and musical performances.

Linville Falls Winery

Linville Falls Winery has its roots in a Christmas tree farm started by Jack Wiseman. The opening of the winery in 2012 was the culmination of a dream he had for 60 years. Today the family-run winery specializes in high-mountain wine and exceptional hospitality.

Linville Falls Winery

Granddaughter Lindsay Wiseman, who handles the wine club and special events, explains that high-elevation vineyards result in distinctive wines. “It’s a very different ballgame,” she said. “Here it is more about acidity, freshness, and lower alcohol. It’s a cooler climate.” The rocky soil is known for producing excellent Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.  

On the patio, we had an expansive view of the hillside vines and the picturesque grounds. It’s a beautiful and tranquil setting to sip wine – so we did.

Favorites included the 2021 Cascade, a white wine made from North Carolina Pinot Gris grapes, and the Red Barn Blend, their take on a Super Tuscan wine. It includes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and Petit Verdot. Their flagship wine is the estate-grown Dry Riesling, be sure to grab a taste.

Blowing Rock and the surrounding High Country of North Carolina is a revitalizing destination, filled with memorable vistas, outstanding food, and great wine.

Monticello Wine Trail Leads To Treasures of Virginia Wine

Virginia's Monticello Wine Trail Offers unique terroir, passionate winemakers, and collaborative spirit. 

Thomas Jefferson, founding father and wine lover, envisioned vineyards surrounding his mountaintop home, Monticello, and wines from his native state of Virginia attaining world-class status. While he never lived to see the dream fulfilled, today the more than 40 wineries of the Monticello Wine Trail are working to make his vision reality.

Last month we visited the wine trail in the Charlottesville, VA, area and discovered scenic panoramas, friendly faces, and elevated wine.

Barboursville Vineyards

The Library 1821 tasting at Barboursville Vineyards is a celebration of Virginia wine. It takes place in a posh library overlooking a sloping vineyard of Cabernet Franc with the Blue Ridge Mountains in the background. Wines include two dozen selections including the numerous vintages of the flagship Octagon red blend dating back to 2007.

Octagon is a blend of estate-grown Bordeaux varietals, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. It is only produced in fine vintage years. The 2020 vintage is an angelic-tasting experience with velvety tannins and notes of cooked plums, ripe red berries, herbs, and a touch of oak. It has a finish that lingers. 

Winemaker and General Manager Luca Paschina, who grew up in a winemaking tradition in Piemonte, Italy, focuses on texture and mouthfeel, knowing that the grapes will assuredly deliver aroma, taste, and color. The soil and climate at Barboursville have helped establish a very European style.

There's a lot to love with the Library 1821 tasting (and food is available). In addition to Octagon, the Petit Verdot Reserve 2019 and Paxxito dessert wines were exceptional.

While visiting, be sure to make a stop at the Barboursville Ruins (on the winery grounds), the crumbling remains of Governor James Barbour's Jefferson-designed mansion. The octagon-shaped drawing room in this house lends its name to the winery's premier wine.

King Family Vineyards

King Family Vineyards didn't aspire to produce wine at its beginning, instead when David and Ellen King moved from Texas to Virginia in 1995, they sought 12 acres of flat farmland for a polo field. It didn't take long to realize the land's potential as a vineyard site. The farm now contains both Roseland Polo and King Family Vineyards.

Sipping a chilled glass of wine outside on the winery's patio while watching polo ponies and riders practice on the polo field with a panorama of mountains in the background is an enchanting experience. The 2022 Viognier has a floral aroma with honeysuckle and stone fruit on the palate. Our friend described this as "sipping love from a cloud." Roseland, a classic Virginia blend of  Chardonnay, Viognier, and Petit Manseng, is also recommended.

The reds at King Family are rich and rewarding. The 2024 Cabernet Franc, a 2024 Governor's Cup winner, features black cherry and white pepper notes. The 2020 Meritage is a blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot is a memorable wine. The 2021 Petit Verdot was our favorite red, with inspiring flavors of smooth, juicy raspberry, just the right amount of tannins, and a lush body.

King Family Vineyards is an exceptional winery experience. Located in Crozet, it offers self-guided wine flights, guided tastings, and winery tours.

Chestnut Oak Vineyard

Small is beautiful, or it can be if you discover a hidden gem winery. Chestnut Oak Vineyard is such a find. A small, peaceful winery, it has earned some huge accolades. After a long day on the trail (wine trail, that is), this intimate tasting room was perfect for enjoying outstanding Monticello AVA wine.

We recommend this not only for the wine but the outstanding artwork. The bright and playful mural by artist Carol Barber transforms the space into a one-of-a-kind experience. The Chestnut One and Chestnut Two Bordeaux-style blends have earned high honors in the prestigious Governor's Cup competition.

The 2021 Rosa Virginiana Rosé, made with Merlot and Petit Verdot, bursts with fresh strawberries and peach flavors. My favorite on the red side was the 2019 Merlot, which delivers ripe red fruit notes, smokiness, and just the right amount of tannins. The caramel flavor in the finish was the perfect touch.

Chestnut Oak in Barboursville is open Friday through Monday.

Afton Mountain Vineyards

On the eastern slope of its namesake mountain, Afton Mountain Vineyards was founded in 1978 as one of the first vineyards in Virginia. At nearly 1,000 feet elevation, a layer of fog clung to the vines as we arrived for our recent visit. In addition to the stylish tasting room, there is a pavilion for larger groups.

The 2023 Albariño is a shining example of how fabulous this grape can be in the US. It is refreshing with citrus, green fruit, and apricot notes. 

The clay and loam soil produces some tremendous reds. The 2022 Merlot, smooth with lush cranberry flavors, shows why people should love this grape. I wrongly assumed that the 2019 Bacco would be Bacco Noir. Instead this delightful Super Tuscan-style wine is a salute to Bacchus, the god of wine and agriculture. It is a blend of Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, and Tannat. It has flavors of black currant, smooth blackberry, and mint. This was one of the top wines on our five-winery tour.

T is the flagship wine of AMV. This Bordeaux-style blend has Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was selected as a Governor's Cup gold medal winner this year. A well-balanced wine, the 2019 vintage has pronounced tannins and robust black fruit flavors. We were delighted to be able to taste this alongside the 2017 T vintage.

Organic Cameleon, Danaus Wines Delight With Taste And Value

Are you familiar with “critter” wines? Years ago the wine Yellowtail, best known for a hopping kangaroo on the label, took America by storm, becoming the fastest-selling brand in the nation. Maybe you know Gato Negro, an inexpensive wine from Chile that features a black cat on the label. Or maybe your spouse or friend proudly displays their latest wine acquisition by saying, “Just look at that cute horse on the label!”

I tend to shy away from “critter” wines. My focus is on what’s inside the bottle. When we got the chance to review three new wines, however, these “critter” wines changed my mind.

We recently uncorked the Cameleon Signature Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay from Argentina and Danaus (named after the scientific name for the Monarch butterfly) Spanish red blend. Each distinguished itself from the zoo of inexpensive wines by combining rewarding taste and value. Each is made with organic grapes.

The Cameleon wines are produced by the Bousquet family, a fourth-generation family that left their native France after a long worldwide search for an idyllic wine-growing region. The chameleon exemplifies their ability to adapt successfully to a new environment.

Their search led them to the Tupungato Valley of Argentina, in the Uco Valley. The vineyards are at the foot of the Andes and benefit from a near-constant breeze from the mountains, sandy soils that provide excellent drainage, and plenty of groundwater from the Andes snowmelt.

The 2021 Cameleon Signature Cabernet has a fruit-laden nose and a palate loaded with cherries and strawberries. There is ample oak and notes of dried herb. The texture is silky and the body is medium. The wine receives malolactic fermentation and six to eight months of oak aging. Fifteen percent of Malbec adds to the pleasing experience. SRP is $20.

Made with over-ripe, partially raisinated grapes, the 2022 Cameleon Signature Chardonnay is golden in the glass and offers pineapple, peach, and apricot notes. It has a touch of sweetness and is whole-cluster pressed, resulting in a deeper, richer flavor than you may expect. This is a Chardonnay that can be paired with desserts, not just seafood.

The Cameleon wines are available at Total Wine in 28 states. The SRP for the Chardonnay is $15.

Danaus hails from the Costers del Segre DOP in Northeast Spain. It is a playful wine that combines 45% Tempranillo, 45% Garnacha, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine gets four months of aging in large French barrels providing a bottle with ripe fruit notes combined with toasty oak. Danaus features threads of cranberry and savory notes as well. This is an enjoyable sipper, suitable for most casual occasions. It’s an appealing value at only $13 SRP. Danaus is available in 17 states.

We suggest you round up these critters for your next party.

Judgment of Paris Anniversary Tasting Highlights French and California Wines

We offer our version of the historic Judgment of Paris tasting in which California wines earned their place on the world stage.

The shockwaves on May 24, 1976, started in Paris and rippled around the world. On that day in a blind tasting, French wine experts judged red and white wines from California superior to first-growth and other renowned bottlings from Burgundy and Bordeaux. We set out to stage our own event on the 48th anniversary of the original tasting.

There were two blind tastings in what has become known as the Judgment of Paris, one of top-quality Chardonnay and the other of red wines. Organized as a publicity stunt by British wine merchant Steve Spurrier, many expected a bad showing by the US wines to accelerate the downfall of American vineyards, instead a Napa Valley wine rated best in both categories.

California long had a reputation for unremarkable wines, sometimes marketed with misleading labels like Burgundy, Chablis, or French Colombard. The Judgment of Paris was the shot heard ‘round the world. In an instant, California wine producers learned they could compete with the well-established French wineries. Winemakers across the globe realized their potential as well.

My good friend Arthur Barham (of Merlot2MuscadineMerlot2Muscadine) was inspired after watching Bottle Shock, the 2008 movie that dramatized the Judgment of Paris tasting from the perspective of Bo Barrett of Napa’s Chateau Montelena. We spoke and agreed a JOP anniversary dinner would be a marvelous opportunity for our first full-fledged collaboration.

We decided on a smaller group of four couples (compared to some of our other soirees) and the focus would be a celebration of French and American wine with gourmet food pairings. The event would be held at Arthur and Mary’s house. Each course would feature a California and French wine.

Oh, yes. To kick the event off in style, we would feature sabrage, the opening of sparkling wine with a saber. It was Arthur’s brainstorm to do a double sabrage with each of us opening a bottle -- one French, one American -- simultaneously. It could either be a spectacular prelude to dinner or an embarrassing “fail” circulated on social media. You can see the results here:

We decided to dig deep into our cellars to pick our French and American wines.  The double sabrage featured Korbel Brut (US) versus Bourgeois-Boulonnaise Champagne Premier Cru Tradition Brut. Both are made with the méthode champenoise. The Premier Cru Champagne is made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, while the Korbel has Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Colombard, and Pinot Noir.

The appetizers, courtesy of Sanjay and Michelle, were Chicken Reshmi Kabab, Paneer Tikka, and Gobi Manchurian (deep-fried marinated fried cauliflower florets, onions, chili, and soy sauce). These paired well with the bubbles and the latter was a spot-on match with the next two wines. On the French side, we served an old favorite, the Château Paradis La Grande Terre Côteaux Aix en Provence Rosé 2023. For the American side, we offered the Curran 2022 Grenache Gris from Santa Barbera. This was my first taste of the Curran and I loved the pale rose quartz color and white raspberry flavor.

A most unique salad, La Salade Mentonnaise, was served next. Menton is the Lemon Capital of France and this salad featured plenty of citrus with fennel, orange, artichoke, pine nuts, lemon zest, and orange vinaigrette. Prepared by Amy and Tony, this was a light and playful pairing with the 2020 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du- Pape Blanc and the Chateau Montelena 2021 Chardonnay. Chateau Montelena was an original participant in the Judgment of Paris and bested the French opposition.

Petite Steak Bites with Béarnaise Sauce, baked polenta & roasted asparagus was the featured entree. We paired this (prepared by yours truly) with a beautiful Chateau Beau-Site Saint Estephe 2016 and a 2015 Pursuit Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Both wines feature Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, although the Bordeaux has 60% Cab and the Pursuit has 81%. Each wine was decanted for two hours.

The red wine lovers had been waiting for this dish, steak and two great red wines! I sipped the Bordeaux first, and the Beau-Site (named because its vineyards are on one of the Medoc’s highest points) began with rich flavors of blackberries, plums, and leather. The Pursuit offers more of a new world character, with bold waves of black cherry, plums, and baking spices predominating along with subtle cigar box notes.

As we continued sipping the red wine and revisiting the others, we compared notes and debated the merits of each wine. Meanwhile, Arthur was preparing dessert: a mouthwatering Grilled Fruit Kabob Medley with Chantilly Cream.

Early on Arthur and I had discussed what wines to serve with the final course. I suggested that after having eight wines, we should go with just one dessert wine (from anywhere). After all, the original Judgment of Paris wasn’t a dessert wine contest.

The final wine was the 2019 Paxxito from Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia. This is one of Arthur’s favorite dessert wines and I was bowled over by it during a visit to the winery earlier this month. It was a palatial ending to a memorable wine dinner.

Who won the judgment this year? The Americans seemed to hold a slight edge
but with many crossovers. One guest who spends every summer in Europe was a strident supporter of France. How fortunate we can freely enjoy wines from both countries.

Thanks to all who attended and to compadre Arthur for this great collaboration.

Hestan Wines Highlight Festive Spring Dinner

We celebrate Spring with four premium wines.

“Spring Into Fun” was the theme of our recent wine dinner, which featured wines from Hestan Vineyards paired with gourmet small plates. Hestan is a picturesque Napa estate named for owners Helen and Stanley Cheng whose passion for fine wine and love for Napa Valley's charm led them to purchase the former cattle ranch in 1996. Stanley pioneered hard-anodized cookware in the 1970s, so we saluted this wine with a culinary tour de force. 

The evening began with some Premier Cru Champagne with panko-coated cauliflower florets and chimichurri two ways. Our daughter Rachel provided the amuse-bouche as well as the dessert. Delicious!

Prosciutto-wrapped asparagus spears in puff pastry appetizer were paired with the 2022 Hestan Sauvignon Blanc. This complex wine gets six months of aging in stainless steel and neutral oak. It has aromas of white blossoms and flavors of pear, honeysuckle, and lemon.

The 2020 Hestan Chardonnay comes from the San Francisco AVA. Appropriately enough our next dish was accompanied by homemade sourdough bread made with a starter from San Francisco. The garden salad was dressed with tarragon vinaigrette and the bread was served with truffle oil. This Chardonnay has ample oak and offers notes of apricot, vanilla, and toast.

The stunning 2019 Vincent Christopher Pinot Noir was our next wine offering. It is a single-vineyard wine from Sonoma Coast made with Dijon clones 113 and 828. The label was created for the Hestan line of Pinot Noir and is named for the Hestans’ two sons. Our dish was served with seared snapper and fruit salsa made with apple, strawberry,
and basil. We tip our hats to winemaker Jeff Gaffner for creating a beautiful mélange of cranberry, black cherry, cedar, and herbal tones. I would have enjoyed sipping this all night.

The 2019 Hestan Grenache, served with grilled skirt steak and Mojo sauce, surprised our guests. They didn't expect the intensity and rich flavors. The wine is made with whole-cluster fermentation and is aged 15 months in neutral oak.  It was an ideal match with the wine displaying pure raspberry flavors, plum, and herbal notes. 

Hestan Vineyards delivered a premium wine experience that delighted our dinner party guests.

The Great Atlas of Italian Wines Is An Indispensable Guide For Wine Lovers

Confused by Ciliegiolo? Mixed up by Marzemino? You’re not alone. The world of Italian wine is complicated as well as beautiful.

The Great Atlas of Italian Wines, a 384-page coffee table book by Alessandro Avatanco and Vittorio Manganelli, bills itself as the definitive tool for understanding, choosing, and discussing Italian wine. The book is published by Rizzoli and is available through Amazon and other outlets.

Italy has 20 wine regions and about 350 official wine grapes. It tells the story of Italian wine region by region with a description of the most widespread international grape varieties and the most important native grapes. If you are a lover of Italian wine, this book is a treasure trove of information. At your fingertips, you can look up grapes like Albarola and Grechetto and get important insights into the region.

There is a listing of the 1,500 most important producers and 3,000 of the best Italian wines. The wineries are indicated on plentiful maps that aid in the understanding of the geography. Another great feature is the infographic for the wines from each region. The infographics graph each wine in 10 dimensions from a central point. At a glance, you can see that Vermentino di Gallura rates high in drinkability (5) while not so much in complexity and longevity (3).

The authors have impressive backgrounds. Alessandro Avataneo is a director, teacher, and publisher. He has worked in more than thirty European countries, the United States, and Japan. Vittorio Manganelli is a long-time collaborator of Vini d’Italia and has edited the volumes Atlante delle vigne di Langa and The Art of Italian Wine for Slow Food Editore.

The US price is $85. We find this book a pleasure to read and a vital resource for lovers of Italian wine.

Adelaida Vineyards Releases Trio Of Spring Wine Winners

Rhône grapes add up to unique and refreshing new bottles from Paso Robles.

Adelaida Vineyards is a pioneer in Paso Robles wine. Established in 1981, it was the ninth winery in Paso. It is family-owned and all wines are 100% estate-grown and organically certified.

We were delighted to have the opportunity to taste three spring releases from this critically-acclaimed limited-production winery. The 2023 Adelaida Rosé, 2022 Adelaida Picpoul Blanc, and 2022 Adelaida Anna’s White all come from the Anna’s Estate Vineyard.

The vineyard is dedicated mostly to Rhône varieties. The white varieties (except for Viognier) lie at the lowest part of the vineyard where they benefit from cooler air. The red varieties are planted at higher elevations to capture greater sun exposure.

Adelaida is located just 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The afternoon sea breezes contribute to a dramatic diurnal temperature swing allowing slow ripening and the development of nuanced flavors and high acidity.

The Anna’s White is a standout wine that delighted us from the opening sip. The blend is 41% Grenache Blanc, 37% Roussanne, 17% Muscat Canelli, and 5% Picpoul Blanc.

It's golden yellow in the glass and coats the tongue with rich, strikingly complex flavors of tart green apple, stone fruit, and ginger. The Muscat Canelli adds an interesting twist to this wine. It's aged nine months in a combination of new French oak and concrete. This is a smashing Rhône-style wine. Highly recommended! SRP $45.

We paired the rosé with vegan African Peanut Stew with brown rice and crispy kale topping. The rosé is one of the best we've tasted this year. It has "a lot going on" with 74% Grenache and smaller amounts of Cinsault, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Counoise.  In the glass, the wine is a beautiful pink pearl. A contemporary style of rosé, it’s nice and juicy. It offers floral scents and rounded flavors of cranberry and cherry blossom on the palate. SRP $35.

We’ve been fans of the Picpoul Blanc grape for many years and were looking forward to tasting this new release. Our daughter is a vegan chef, and she whipped up a special dish to pair with the Picpoul Blanc, vegan Aloo Gobi Mutter (potatoes, cauliflower, and peas with Indian spices). The wine is aged in concrete eggs and neutral oak for nine months. We love that as it adds an extra layer of texture without smothering the flavor.

Picpoul translates to “stings the lips” and there is ample acidity here that creates a vibrant wine. It is flush with tropical flavors, minerality, and notes of stone fruit. It’s a refreshing glass that certainly goes with seafood or plant-based dishes. Only 293 cases were produced. The SRP is $40.

As if producing wonderful wine isn’t enough, Adelaida is a forerunner in the ecology movement. Only 10% of Adelaida’s 1,900 acres are planted to vineyards; more than 1,000 acres of land remain undeveloped and unfenced, for ecological and wild animal habitat. The winery also produces all of its energy needs from its own solar farm and recycles its pond water for storage and ranch use.

These wines are available directly from the winery via its website.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.