South African Dinner Dazzles With Tasteful Dishes And Stark-Condé Wine

Stark-Condé South African Wines

Wines from South Africa find the sweet spot between Old World winemaking techniques and New World flavors.

Stark-Condé Syrah

Diverse Roots

When we were invited to sample a selection of South African wines from Stark-Condé. It was the perfect occasion to throw an aandete partytjie (dinner party) pairing these delicious bottles with elegant dishes.

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Stark-Condé is a family business that encompasses a story of diversity as well.

South African patriarch Hans Schroder was raised in Stellenbosch. In the 1960s while attending university in Japan, Hans met and married fellow student Midori Maruyama. At the time, their marriage was illegal in Hans’ native South Africa due to the apartheid regime’s Prohibition of Mixed Marriages Act so the young couple settled in Japan. They remained in Tokyo for the next nearly three decades where they raised three daughters.

South African dinner and scallop entree

In the late 1980s and with the changes on the horizon in South Africa, Hans and Midori decided it was time to return to his native country. They purchased the Oude Nektar farm in 1989 and focused on growing grapes. In 1998, eldest daughter Marie and her American husband José also relocated to South Africa to join the family – and the family business, where with an artisan’s attention to detail and a purist’s approach in the cellar, José slowly developed Stark-Condé’s wines.

Gary and Diane and Bobotie

Today, Stark-Condé wines and the family of brands includes Stark-Condé, MAN Family Wines, Lievland Vineyards, Essay, and KaraTara. The range has something for everyone, from wine novice to lovers of classically styled wines.

Celebrating South African Wine

Friends enjoying dinner and sosatie kabob

To make a six-course meal possible, we enlisted the culinary expertise of our guests, inviting them to create a dish for an assigned wine. Our guests were Kyle and Natalie Hampton, Arthur and Mary Barham, Rob and Chris Rudloff, and Gary and Diane Wessell. Of course, this would not have been possible without the cooking and organizing of my wife, the Green Dragon.

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After a bit of bubbly, we uncorked our first SA wine: the 2021 Warrelwind Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, from MAN. Warrelwind is a whirlwind in Afrikaans, and this was a beauty, with an accent on herbaceousness and rich tropical notes. A nice accompaniment to the fresh Caprese Salad.

South African Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc is one of South Africa’s most well-known wines, and we featured two on our menu. The first was the 2021 Monk Stone Chenin, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, from Stark-Condé. This is a complex wine aged in amphorae and second-use oak. It has lovely nectarine and apple flavors with notes of wet stone. The tasty leek and asparagus quiche was a perfect partner, not overpowering the delicate tastes of the wine.

The 2021 Essay (“S A” get it?) is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, and Viognier from the Coastal Region. This wine is slightly off-dry with generous fruit and a palate of pineapple and guava. It is a dynamite food fine and glasses were refilled and the bottle emptied as we tasted the succulent seared scallops and shrimp served with oranges and rocket salad. At an SRP of $11.99, this is a steal.

Bobotie is a South African casserole with minced beef at the bottom and a thin layer of egg custard on the top. Diane and Gary seasoned it to perfect. The KaraTara Pinot Noir was striking with the bobotie. I couldn’t imagine a better match. A touch of pepper is typical from Pinots in this area and it really worked with this dish. It also had classic cherry and strawberry notes.

Exploring South African Cuisine

Sosatie is a lamb kebab from South Africa with Cape Malay roots. Arthur whipped this up with three different sauces, including one with apricot. In the past, the only really good Pinotage I’ve had is what I tasted in South Africa. The Lievland Bushvine Pinotage from Paarl turned my preconception upside down. This was an elegant Pinotage with luscious raspberry and hints of oak and vanilla. It is a smooth and savory wine. SRP is $18.99.

Caprese salad and rich dessert

Do they love dark chocolate in South Africa? We don’t know, but the Green Dragon decided that a Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake would be the ideal pairing with the 2018 Stark-Condé Syrah. She was right. The key to pairing with Syrah is to have dark or bittersweet chocolate desserts. Something sweet would be a recipe for disaster. This was a scrumptious highlight of the evening. The Syrah is one of the best I’ve tasted this year, rich with dark fruit and jammy currant. The tannins are silky smooth and there is a touch of savory mushroom on the close.

Our guests were quite tickled with the fantastic food and wine feast, but we were not done. As we continued to savor the cheesecake, I opened a bottle of Amarula. Amarula is often shared during a South African braai, a gathering of friends and family around a wood-fired grill. The creme liqueur is made from the Marula fruit, which is the favorite food of African elephants. It is creamy with a fruity, toffee-like flavor.

It was an evening to remember thanks to a culinary marriage of great food and exemplary South African wines.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

The Mentors 2016 Canvas Red Blend, Western Cape

This bottle shows South African winemaking at its best.

During our recent trip to Florida, we stopped over in Savannah on the way back. We stayed at our favorite dog-friendly hotel there, the Kimpton Brice Hotel. Although the hotel has a couple of dog-friendly tables at the restaurant, we opted for the Secret Garden.

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The Secret Garden is an open courtyard where we could enjoy our takeout meal al fresco. Another benefit is that there is no corkage fee and I had conveniently brought The Mentors 2016 Canvas red blend. As our dog Amber settled beneath the table, I uncorked our wine.

This was one of my first purchases from WTSO, the online wine retailer with daily flash sales. When I saw a South African red blend that retails for $39 available for $17, I pushed the button. I’m glad I did.

The Mentors is one of the brands of South African Wine giant KWV (which is short for a nearly unpronounceable Afrikaner name). KWV was founded as a co-op in 1918 by wine growers. It did a lot of admirable things, but KWV also set quotas which resulted in quantity over quality in the country until they were abolished in the 1990s. KWV later helped establish the Wines of Origin program, which helps assure consumers of the top quality in South African wines.

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We’re superfans of South African wine since our safari there and romp in the winelands a number of years ago. South African wine, in our minds, combines the New World fruit-forward profile with Old World winemaking craftsmanship.

The Mentors range is named in honor of Abraham Perold, who developed Pinotage and is considered the father of modern South African viticulture. Canvas is a red blend of 39% Shiraz, 17% Grenache Noir, 17% Tempranillo, 14% Petite Sirah, 7% Cinsaut, 6% Tannat. That’s a mighty cool blend, with the Tempranillo adding an interesting twist to the mostly Rhone-style wine.

On the palate this rocks with layers of dark cherry, raspberry, and violets. Vanilla highlights a smooth minerally finish. This delivers full-body satisfaction without bombastic tannins. It is great with grilled meat, or even pasta with meat sauce (as I enjoyed in the Secret Garden). The only drawback is that I only purchased only one bottle (which I have since rectified!).

If you haven’t been drinking South African wine, this is a beautiful introduction. It’s still available on the WTSO website. Cheers!

Jumpstart Your Spring With These Four Wines

Whether you are celebrating Easter, or simply transitioning to warmer temperatures and longer days, here are four perfect wines for you to discover.

I just realized that I made it through the entire winter without once using my ice scraper. Saints be praised! It was quite a different story when I lived up north, where the football teams are much better, but the weather is decidedly colder. Spring is nature’s way of saying it’s time to party – and we have some great suggestions for you.

Lievland 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coastal Region, South Africa

It’s time to get the grill out of hibernation, and this South African Cab is just the wine to go with your crispy creations. We love the South African style, which marries the fruit-forwardness of the New World with the Old World winemaking methods. The Green Dragon (wife) doesn’t always know which wine I’m handing her to sip. After one taste, she proclaimed, “This is really great.” Medium ruby in color, the wine features grapes from the winelands of Stellenbosch and Paarl. It is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cinsault, and 6% Cabernet Franc.

The tannins are smooth and give a polished finish to the wine. The wine is aged in oak barrels, but only 5% are new, so there is nothing harsh to interfere with the elegant flavors of vanilla, spice, and ripe plums. This is a beauty priced at $18.99.

Maison Les Alexandrins 2019 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge

Syrah is a perfect match for an Easter lamb dinner. This Northern Rhone wine is grown on the granite slopes of Crozes-Hermitage. The 2019 vintage was a rough one, with a June hailstorm wiping out many of the vines in the region. This was followed by record heat that caused some of the berries to burn. The quantities were limited, but the harvest went smoothly.

In the glass, this wine is deep purple. Earthy notes frame the wine, which has flavors of candied fruit and sour cherry. The intense flavors explode on the palate and a subtle smokiness provides additional complexity. Serve at about 60º to 62º F. Perfect with grilled or spicy food. SRP $32.99.

Miguel Torres 2021 Las Mulas Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Chile

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc hails from the Central Valley of Chile. The wine is 100% organic and vegan. The name and the label are a homage to Rufina the mule, who can be found in the vineyards. The wine is certainly not stubborn, with rounded flavors of tropical fruit with a hint of citrus.

Although there is a good acid structure, the flavor is rounded and satisfying. This is a perfect bottle to chill and serve with grilled or baked fish. Or, feel free to open and enjoy by itself. SRP $14.99.

J. de Villebois 2020 Sauvignon Blanc, Touraine

Loire Valley has a brilliant range of wines, including those made from Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. The banks of the Cher River (a tributary of the Loire) have flinty soil, just perfect for Sauvignon Blanc like this one. This cuvée is the flagship of J. de Villebois. Pale yellow in the glass, it has fresh aromas of acacia and ripe fruit.

The flavors are vibrant with lemon drop and apple notes. Spritely minerality binds it all together. Pair this with shellfish or goat cheese. SRP $17.99.

Full Disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

These Romantic Red Wines Won Our Hearts

Want to be loved on Valentine’s Day? Open one of these four bottles.

If there is any day that calls for wine and roses, it’s Valentine’s Day. Or wine and chocolates, or wine and a gourmet dinner, or… you get the picture. Wine! We present to you four wine styles and four great wines to make your romantic evening a success.

Kara-Tara 2019 Pinot Noir, Western Cape, South Africa

We love Pinot Noir for special dinners. It is less bulky than say a Cabernet Sauvignon and has nuanced flavors that can pair well with salmon or lighter meat entrees. This Pinot Noir from South Africa comes with a twist. The grapes are sourced from three vineyards in the Western Cape, including Elgin. The vines are dry farmed (no irrigation) and 20% of the wine was whole-bunch fermented. We like that process (where the grape clusters aren’t destemmed) as it gives more complexity.

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In the glass, the wine is a pale ruby. On the nose, there are earthy aromas. When I first had this wine a year ago I had to check the label. It is so unique I had to make sure I was sipping Pinot Noir. On the palate strawberry and cherry components are evident along with earthiness and tea leaf. The attention-grabber is the chord of peppery spice, which I’ve never had in a Pinot Noir before but which is typical of Elgin. SRP $21.99.

Tinto Negro 2017 Limestone Block Malbec, Tunuyan-Mendoza

Soft, juicy and wonderful, Malbec is almost a no-brainer when it comes to selecting a wine loved by all. This Argentinian Malbec from the famed Mendoza region pushes all the right buttons. The vines come from an elevation of 4,000 feet at the foot of the Andes. The soil has rocky patches and a subsoil of round rocks, which give the wine a unique character.

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In the glass, this is a purple of medium depth with a light rim variation. On the nose, there are wafts of jamminess. Sipping provides the mineral flavors imparted by limestone, plus delicious red fruit and sweet notes of oak. This is a dry wine with floral accents provided by a dash of Cabernet Franc in the mix. An all-around winner at $21.99.

Boekenhoutskloof 2019 The Chocolate Block, Swartland, South Africa

A great pick for your romantic meal is a Bordeaux-style blend (usually Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cab Franc) or a Rhone blend (Syrah and Grenache). The Chocolate Block has a special place in our hearts. We first tasted it while on safari in South Africa at a private camp near Kruger National Park. Being surrounded by wild animals always makes the wine taste better!

This wine leads with Syrah (71%) and Grenache (11%) but isn’t a true Rhone-style blend as it includes Cabernet Sauvignon. Cinsault and Viognier are also in the mix. Viognier is a white wine, but some amounts are sometimes added to Rhone wines for the aromatics.

The wine is deep garnet in color. This is a big wine both in terms of alcohol (14.5%) and tannins. It opens with flavors of plums and cocoa. Included in the spectrum of flavors are oak, dried herbs, and smoke. The flavors are intense but focused with layered elegance and a nice long finish. Of our four recommendations, this has the biggest body, and so would pair perfectly with a juicy steak. This safari-tested wine has an SRP of $37.99.

Borgo Scopeto 2018 Chianti Classico

For an outstanding dinner partner, all you really need to know is the Black Rooster. That is the symbol of Chianti Classico wines, crafted primarily from Sangiovese in the historic heart of the Chianti region. It is a wine that pairs perfectly with your pasta and Italian entrée. We paired this wine with Eggplant Parmigiana and Tortellini di Torino from a local Italian restaurant.  

The wine has intense flavors of cooked cherry with ample vanilla notes. Oak highlights the dry and elegant finish. There is plenty of fruit here and a smooth body. Chianti Classico is one of our “go-to” wines and this one is eminently pleasing. SRP is $20.99.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Glenelly 2009 Grand Vin, Stellenbosch

A new APWASI wine certification means we pop open a special bottle.

South Africa Certified!

For the past few weeks, I’ve been studying South African wine as part of the Asia Pacific Wine and Spirit Institute Certified South African Wine Specialist program. I previously completed the Certified Argentinian Wine Specialist course and now just passed the exam for the South Africa certification.

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A major wine holiday took place while I was studying, Open That Bottle Night. On OTBN, you are supposed to open a special bottle (instead of letting it gather dust waiting for a super-special occasion). Our selection was the 2009 Glenelly Grand Vin from Stellenbosch. I chose the bottle for a couple of reasons. First, it was timely in light of my APWASI studies. It was also one of the last remaining wines we brought back from our trip to South Africa in 2015.

Memories Of A Safari And The Winelands

It was a special trip that caused us to fall in love with the country, its people, animals, cuisine, and wine. Glenelly has a stylish tasting room (or cellar door as they say in South Africa) and has a wonderful art glass collection. In fact, one of their ranges of wine is called the Glass Collection.

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We not only did a tented safari (OK, it was more like "glamping") but also visited Cape Town and the South African wine country. Known as the Winelands, these are perhaps the most scenic wine regions on earth.

Winemaking in South Africa dates back to the 1600s when the Dutch settled the area at the continent's tip. It was believed that wine would help prevent scurvy for sailors, so this became a popular stop for ships sailing between Europe and India.

The country ranges from a mild Mediterranean climate to desert conditions, resulting in a wide range of different wines and styles. Since the end of apartheid in the 1990s, there has been a boom in wine quality.

The Best Of Both Worlds

While South Africa's best-known white wine is Chenin Blanc, known locally as Steen, it also produces beautiful Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. For red wines, the signature grape is Pinotage, a unique grape that is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Perhaps our favorites are the Bordeaux-style red blends (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, etc.). The winemaking is a wonderful blend of New World flavors with Old World craftsmanship.

Stellenbosch is known as the Kingdom of Cabernet, and the Grand Vin blend includes Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

When we first tasted it at the winery, it was more fruit-driven. In the years since it evolved to have lovely toasted caramel notes with flavors of cooked fruit and black tea. The body remains smooth and supple. Delightful!

Nelle ultime settimane ho studiato vino sudafricano nell'ambito del programma di specialista del vino sudafricano certificato Asia Pacific Wine and Spirit Institute. In precedenza ho completato il corso Certified Argentinian Wine Specialist e ora ho appena superato l'esame per la certificazione Sud Africa.

Mentre studiavo si è svolta una grande festa del vino, Open That Bottle Night. Su OTBN, dovresti aprire una bottiglia speciale (invece di lasciarla raccogliere polvere in attesa di un'occasione super speciale). La nostra selezione è stata il Glenelly Grand Vin 2009 di Stellenbosch. Ho scelto la bottiglia per un paio di motivi. Innanzitutto, è stato opportuno alla luce dei miei studi APWASI. È stato anche uno degli ultimi vini rimasti che abbiamo riportato dal nostro viaggio in Sud Africa nel 2015.

È stato un viaggio speciale che ci ha fatto innamorare del paese, della sua gente, degli animali, della cucina e del vino. Glenelly ha un'elegante sala degustazione (o porta della cantina come si dice in Sud Africa) e ha una meravigliosa collezione di vetri d'arte. In effetti, una delle loro gamme di vini si chiama Glass Collection.

Non solo abbiamo fatto un safari in tenda (OK, era più come "glamping") ma abbiamo anche visitato Cape Town e la regione vinicola sudafricana. Conosciute come le Winelands, queste sono forse le regioni vinicole più panoramiche della terra. La vinificazione in Sud Africa risale al 1600, quando gli olandesi stabilirono l'area all'estremità del continente. Si credeva che il vino avrebbe aiutato a prevenire lo scorbuto per i marinai, quindi questa è diventata una tappa popolare per le navi che navigano tra l'Europa e l'India.

Il paese varia da un clima mite mediterraneo a condizioni desertiche, risultando in una vasta gamma di vini e stili diversi. Dalla fine dell'apartheid negli anni '90, c'è stato un boom della qualità del vino.

Mentre il vino bianco più conosciuto del Sud Africa è lo Chenin Blanc, conosciuto localmente come Steen, produce anche bellissimi Chardonnay e Sauvignon Blanc. Per i vini rossi, l'uva firma è il Pinotage, un'uva unica che è un incrocio tra Pinot Nero e Cinsault. Forse i nostri preferiti sono le miscele rosse in stile bordolese (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, ecc.). La vinificazione è una meravigliosa miscela di sapori del Nuovo Mondo con l'artigianato del Vecchio Mondo.

Stellenbosch è conosciuta come il Regno del Cabernet e la miscela Grand Vin comprende Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot e Petit Verdot.

Quando l'abbiamo assaggiato per la prima volta in cantina, era più fruttato. Negli anni successivi si è evoluto per avere piacevoli note di caramello tostato con aromi di frutta cotta e tè nero. Il corpo rimane liscio ed elastico. Delizioso!

Consider These Holiday Treasure Wines

The holidays are here. What will you pour? Check out this quartet.

Spanning The Globe

Anyone remember The Wide World of Sports? The opening had a montage of sports clips and the punchy narration: “Spanning the globe to bring you the constant variety of sport... the thrill of victory... and the agony of defeat... the human drama of athletic competition...”

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We don’t pretend to do all that, but we do span the globe to taste some really exemplary wines so that you too may know the thrill of victory. Here are four that we recently tasted and enjoyed, from three different continents and all at a palatable price.

Kara-Tara 2018 Pinot Noir, Western Cape, South Africa

We opened this around a neighborly neighbor’s firepit. This is a South African spin on Pinot Noir. The name means “deep dark shadows” and indeed this wine tilts towards the earthy end of the Pinot spectrum. The vines average five years of age and grow at an elevation of 500 to 900 feet.

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This is a more substantial Pinot with malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak lending a beautiful body. In fact, I had to doublecheck the label to make sure I wasn’t drinking a bottle of Pinotage instead of Pinot Noir. A complex and exciting bottle priced at $21.99.

Tinto Negro 2018 Malbec, Uco Valley, Argentina

Talk about taking your Malbec drinking to new heights! This wine comes from the Los Arboles district of the Uco Valley, located at an altitude of 3,500 feet. The grapes are grown in shallow, sandy silt where their struggles result in a beautiful concentration of flavor.

This wine reflects the cool climate style of Malbec, with dark fruit and chocolate flavors. In fact, Tinto Negro means black wine in Spanish. There are rich flavors accented with oak, from six months in used French barrels. The complex Tinto Negro blows away the simply, jammy Malbecs but has an affordable $16.99 price tag.

Famille Perrin 2019 Nature Côtes du Rhône Blanc

This delightful white is a certified organic wine from the first family of the Rhône Valley. You are probably more familiar with the CDR reds – but the whites are intriguing and expressive.

The grapes come from the northern part of the Côtes du Rhône region and are harvested in the morning to preserve their freshness. Aging in stainless steel keeps the flavors precise. The body is round and soft.

The Nature Blanc is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne – all lovely grapes with which you should become acquainted. This is a beautiful light gold in the glass with honeysuckle notes on the nose. It flows with tastes of peach and lime.

A natural partner for fish, this would also rock spicy Asian cuisine. We recommend a multi-bottle buy, or maybe a case at the ridiculously low price of $14.99.

August Kesseler 2018 The Daily August Pinot Noir, Rheingau

Germany’s Rheingau region is rightly known for Riesling, which accounts for 80% of production. What you may not know is that Germany’s number one red grape is Pinot Noir, also known as Spätburgunder. The name of this wine encourages you to make this German Pinot part of your daily routine.

This is VDP Gutswein. VDP is a collection of Germany’s leading wine estates and Gutswein is their classification for good entry level wine. The Daily August is aged in barriques manufactured in their two-story cellar, which dates to 1792.

Oak aging makes a difference as this wine has more complexity than the Spätburgunder we’ve had before. There are dark cherry and blueberry notes. This wine evolved in the glass and we found ourselves liking it more as the wine in our glasses went up and the wine in the bottle went down.

The winery suggests the following meal pairing: guinea fowl with red wine butter, parsley risotto, and porcini mushrooms. That would certainly be a feast! SRP is $26.99.

Full disclosure: This wine was received as marketing samples.

Let Your Holidays Shine With These International Sparkling Wines

Are you anxious to celebrate the holidays and ring in a hopeful new year? Take your pick from these seven sparklers from around the globe.

Global Values In Bubbles

As thoughts turn to holiday celebrations after a difficult 2020 (hang in there, people!), it’s time to reach for a bottle of bubbly. Champagne is the most famed sparkling wine by far, but there are plenty of options for bubbles that won’t put a hurt on your bank account. We recently received seven non-vintage sparklers to review which are sure to tickle your nose and bring a smile to your face. Each is priced below $25.

La Vielle Ferme Réserve Brut and Réserve Rosé

La Vielle Ferme is the best-selling brand of French wine in the United States. It consistently delivers great taste and affordability. We tasted two different bubblies, both created with a unique process. The technique, dubbed Méthode Contemporaine, captures CO₂ during the fermentation process and reintroduces it right before bottling.

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These bottles, each with an SRP of $14.99, have plenty of pop. The Réserve Brut is 100% Chardonnay that undergoes battonage (stirring on the lees) for an extra dollop of complexity. Lots of peach and limestone with this bottle. The rosé is Grenache Noir (40%), Cinsault (40%), and Pinot Noir (20%). Look for raspberries and a dash of citrus on the palate. These wines are dependable and delicious.

MAN Sparkling Chenin Blanc Brut and Méthode Cap Classique Brut

We had no idea South Africa had sparkling wine – until we visited there a few years ago. We were introduced to Méthode Cap Classique wines, the country’s finest sparkling wine produced in the traditional method. Minds blown! MAN Family Wines is known for producing widely distributed quality South African wines at value prices.

We had never had a sparkling Chenin Blanc before and really savored this bottle from MAN. Locally known as Steen, the grapes were grown in a dry-farmed vineyard in the Agter-Paarl region. Perfect with seafood, it has luscious notes of tropical fruit. SRP is $15.99.

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The Méthode Cap Classique Brut is also 100% Chenin Blanc and aged four months in French oak. For added complexity, it spent a total of 18 months on the lees. The time and effort is worth it. On the palate there are persistent bubbles with lime, pear and toast notes. A wonderful value at $24.99, this is a great celebratory bottle.

Marqués de Cáceres Cáva Brut

Why do we love Cava? Simply because it’s awesome. Cava is Spain’s traditional method sparkling wine that is produced mainly in the Penedès region.

Marqués de Cáceres is one of the best-known names in Rioja, and this Cava will not disappoint. The grapes are the traditional trio of Xarel.lo, Macabeo, and  Parellada and are hand harvested from vines that average 25 years of age. Apples and floral notes delight the palate as you enjoy the fine, streaming bubbles SRP $14.99.

Alma Negra Brut Nature

This wine from Argentina captivated us from the start with its label. Alma Negra means “dark soul” and the label features a mysterious, shadowy mask.

Inside the stylish bottle is Malbec and Pinot Noir. We enjoyed this with a patio dinner and could have easily consumed a second bottle. The taste is flowing with strawberry and lime accented with a crisp acidity.

This is a wine from Argentine wine icon Ernesto Catena and is a steal at $21.99.

J. de Villebois Crémant de Loire

We’re big fans of crémant. By law, sparkling wine cannot be called Champagne unless it is produced in France’s Champagne region. There’s plenty of good bubbly from other areas of France and in many cases it’s called crémant. You can get the French grooviness with a crémant without the Champagne price tag.

The wine is 60% Chenin Blanc, 35% Chardonnay and 5% Cabernet Franc. It’s aged for 12 months in underground limestone caves.

We uncorked this tasty bottle to celebrate the birth of our first grandchild. This wine has bountiful, foamy froth and delicate bubbles. On the palate it’s creamy with distinctive vanilla notes.

At $20.99, it is a stylish sparkling wine. Perfect to toast that special occasion.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Screwcap Wines Perfect For Your Outside Enjoyment

The current pandemic has increased the amount of time we’re spending outdoors. Here’s a list of some outstanding screw closure wines to enjoy while there.

Welcome To The Great Outdoors

Patios, backyards, parks, beaches, lakes, balconies, rooftops. Camping, picnics, hiking—one of the biggest trends of 2020 just might be how much time we’re spending outdoors. For the time being, our entertaining has all been on our back patio with plenty of room to social distance with our friends. We’ve been twisting off the tops of many wines in the process.

Wines with screw closures have come a long way. Previously screwcaps were used almost exclusively on low-quality, mass-produced wine. Today the story is much different.

Advances in closure technology now allows for the preservation of wine without the worry of cork taint. Many producers also tout the environmentally-friendly aspect of screw closures. You can no longer judge the quality of the wine by the bottle top.

Perhaps the biggest bonus is convenience. No foil cutter or corkscrew is required – and you don’t need to worry about resealing the bottle if you didn’t quite finish. Just twist the top back on.

Twist And Shout

We recently untwisted the tops on eight enjoyable screwcap wines:

Bernier 2018 Chardonnay, Loire Valley – We’re Loire Valley fans and consider these French wines fun with plentiful fruit. This Chard is fresh with apple and pear notes with minimal oaking. Nice minerality too. SRP $15.99.

Domaine Matrot 2018 Chardonnay, Burgundy – This Burgundy gets malolactic fermentation and time on the lees for a nice rounded flavor. The vines average more than 30 years old. SRP $28.99.

Domaine Matrot 2017 Pinot Noir, Burgundy – Made with grapes from Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, this is a Pinot designed to drink young. A fresh wine with sweet notes of red berries. Lacks the earthiness of some Pinot, but is juicy with soft tannins. SRP $33.99.

La Vieille Ferme 2019 Rosé – La Vieille Ferme is the best-selling French wine in America and is designed to be straightforward and inexpensive. The Rosé is thoroughly enjoyable at a mere $11.99 price. Made with Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah.

La Vieille Ferme 2018 Rouge – This is a unique red with a Southern France profile. The grapes are Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah. The grapes are crushed and fermented in cement vats, which gives the wine a light and playful style. One of my patio favorites at a mere $11.99.

MAN 2019 Chenin Blanc, South Africa – This Chenin Blanc, or Steen as its called in its home country, comes from unirrigated bush vines. Surprisingly, it is made from free-run juice – no pressing involved. This is a fresh, enjoyable mix of pineapple, lemon and apple flavors. SRP $11.99.

MAN 2017 Pinotage, South Africa – There’s a lot to love about this Pinotage (a South African specialty). It starts with earthy notes of mocha then softens into juicy, red berry bliss. This was a favorite of the Green Dragon (my lovely wife). SRP $11.99.

Mohua 2019 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough – A satisfying, classic version of Marlborough Sauvignon with tropical fruit and lime notes punctuated with a zesty acidity. The Mohua is a small colorful bird found only on the South Island of New Zealand. This is a solid choice for the summery days of September. SRP $15.99

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Reyneke Biodynamic Winegrowing Yields South African Gems

A stranger to South African wine? Whet your appetite with these picks.

Ancient Practices For Modern Wine

Biodynamic methods have been at the cutting edge -- some might say the outer fringe -- of winegrowing for many years. Rather than a new technique, it harkens back to age-old cycles of agriculture.

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Biodynamic farming, while very similar to organic farming, is unique in that it conceives of a vineyard as an entire ecosystem on its own. Biodynamic practices also incorporate ancient ideas like astrological influences, natural preparations to protect and aid the vines, and lunar cycles. No synthetic chemicals are used in the farming of the grapes, and oftentimes animals like cows, alpacas, and sheep are used to complete the vineyard ecosystem and increase biodiversity.

There are now more than 4,500 certified biodynamic wineries worldwide in more than 50 countries. Reyneke Wines in Stellenbosch has the distinction of being the very first winery certified as biodynamic (by Demeter International) in all of South Africa.

The Reyneke team is led by Johan Reyneke who took over farming activities on the family farm more than 20 years ago and produced the first wine. He gradually moved from conventional farming practices to organic and now to biodynamic principles.

Sustainable Wine Ecosystem

At Reyneke, the farm is seen as an ‘individuality’. It needs to be self-sustainable and self-supporting. Why? If the farm can produce its own fertilizer and compost, this means it’s less dependent on trucking-in fertilizer in clouds of diesel exhausts. If the farm is self-sufficient, their own cow manure ‘costs’ the same every day, no matter the price of oil.

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The vineyards are herbicide, fungicide, and pesticide-free. Instead, companion plants are used to out-compete the weeds and natural predators (like ducks) are used to combat pests.

Is all the care that goes into growing the grapes reflected in the glass? We recently opened a selection of Reyneke wines to find out.

First of all, we are mighty fans of Stellenbosch and South African wines. We find that wines from here have Old World sensibilities with the bold flavors of the New World. Our faith in this great wine region was borne out with the Reyneke wines.

The 2018 Vinehugger Red is a blend of 85% Shiraz and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an explosion of red fruit and spice flavors with several layers. It’s a smooth wine with light tannins courtesy of 25% aging in used oak barrels. This is amazingly good for $14.99.

The white counterpart is the 2018 Vinehugger White, which is 100% Chenin Blanc. This is a fresh and vibrant surprise for anyone whose love of white wine has been dulled by nondescript Chardonnay. There are flavors of apricot and citrus and lip-smacking acidity. The finish is 80% stainless steel and 20% mature oak barrels. This wine was a favorite as we wrapped up a long, hot day on the patio. SRP is $16.99.

Reyneke also offers its 2018 Chenin Blanc, a top of the line South African Chenin that has captured a slew of awards. The grapes come from vineyards planted in the 1970s and the wine is aged in second use French oak and larger 2,500-litre casks. It is aged on the lees for 10 months to give added complexity. Pear, grapefruit, and melon flavors abound in this delightful wine. SRP is $33.99.

A Spectacular Syrah Wine Dinner

We selected the 2017 Syrah for a special wine dinner. This wine retails for $28.99. A third of the grapes are crushed by foot and all are then fermented in concrete tanks. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and gets 14 months in oak and another three months in stainless steel.

This is biodynamic winemaking at its best. All the nuances of the wine are present with rushing blueberry and raspberry fruit notes and a complex undercurrent of savory herbs and pepper. The tannins provide a nice structure without being overbearing.

We had to up our culinary game to match this fine wine. Our meal was a succulent Seared Duck with Date Jus and Parmesan Foam with Smashed Fingerling Potatoes. My diet lately has been pretty regulated with mostly plant-based dishes. For the night, though, we reveled in the rich duck breast with the sweet date sauce. The fingerling potatoes were cooked in duck fat -- oh, the delicious decadence! The Syrah was bold enough to stand up to the richness for a divine pairing of biodynamic goodness and fine dining.

I’ve never been sure how much difference the practices of biodynamic winegrowing really makes. One thing that has always been certain is that when you are meticulous in the details and show care for the earth, the quality and love shine through to the wine. We heartily recommend Reyneke wines!

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Rollicking Wine Executive Felix Hart Returns In New “Firing Blancs” Adventure

I’ve been a fan of Felix Hart, Peter Stafford-Bow’s lusty and adventuresome hero who works for British grocery giant Gatesave, since the publishing of Corkscrew, the first in a series of three Felix Hart adventures. In Firing Blancs, the latest tale published in May, Felix is trotting the globe again, this time to South Africa.

Reading the book without first perusing the promotional material, I was delighted to find the story was located in one of our favorite wine destinations: South Africa. Through the book, we were able to relive some of our favorite stops such as Cape Town, Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, and the Helshoogte Pass. 

After choking his CEO to death (accidentally) during a boardroom presentation, Felix is off to South Africa to try to avoid a public relations disaster. Gatesave’s largest South African supplier has been discovered to have brutal and oppressive working conditions. Felix must somehow work with the recalcitrant winery owner to triple his workers’ pay and earn a certification of fair and humane work practices -- certainly a daunting task.

Working undercover as a representative of the Tears of Pity charity, Felix finds himself assaulted, blackmailed and imprisoned in a sketchy township guesthouse. Our hero bounces from one dire situation to another, eluding the jaws of vicious guard dogs, the clutches of a revolutionary leader and the insanity of the tyrannical new CEO of Gatesave.

Felix and Stafford-Bow handle each situation with panache and hilarious results. This book could not have come along at a better time. We all need a laugh right about now. Firing Blancs is a perfect escape into the wine world of South Africa and an adventure filled with mayhem, some madness and complete fun.

Firing Blancs is published by Acorn Publishing and is available on Amazon for $11.99.

La Petite Ferme 2013 The Verdict, Franschhoek

An anniversary dinner during COVID-19 lockdown? Here’s how we handled it.

A Milestone Event During A Crisis

Celebrating a milestone wedding anniversary and a coronavirus lockdown don’t go hand in hand. Normally we’d be jetting to Paris and eating at an exclusive restaurant while I shower my wife with expensive gifts. Hmm, not quite, but we certainly would go out to a nice eatery for dinner. We also had planned a tour through national parks in Utah for this timeframe. Even Dr. Anthony Fauci couldn’t save this year’s celebration, though.

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Although confined to our home, we had a balmy day -- just perfect for a romantic dinner on the patio. The Green Dragon, my lovely and talented wife, started preparations for a wonderful meal. For hours she worked singlehandedly in the kitchen on this culinary masterpiece.

Meanwhile, I did the really hard work. I grated several tablespoons of cheese and had the all-important assignment of picking the wine. To my credit, I did procure a very nice bouquet of roses and bought the very last anniversary card in the store.

A Menu To Savor

The menu was a masterpiece. The entree was pork tenderloin stuffed with spinach and mushrooms topped with a sherry cream sauce. Accompanying the meat was a perfectly crisped three-cheese potatoes gratin. For dessert, we enjoyed a beautiful vegan Berry Blackout cake with a chocolate strawberry sauce.

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The tablecloth was spread and the sun was shining as I uncorked our selected wine: The Verdict, 2013 vintage, from La Petite Ferme winery in Franschhoek, South Africa. We bought the wine during a tour of South African winelands five years ago.

After heading up winding mountain roads and navigating down a steep, narrow driveway, we came to La Petite Ferme. La Petite Ferme is a winery known not only for its wine but its fine cuisine. We were surprised to see we were the only car in the small parking lot.

We later learned that tastings were by appointment only. Graciously, the cellar manager agreed to do an informal tasting for us. What luck! The wines were inspired. We learned inside tales of making wine in South Africa, including how baboons would sneak down the hillsides to eat Chardonnay grapes. Apparently, they have refined taste.

And The Verdict Is…

There were many well-crafted wines, but we decided on The Verdict when Sonja, our host, told us this was a wine that can “take it all through the night.” We carried it back from South Africa (along with many more) in a checked bag.

The Verdict is a luscious blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is aged 17 months in oak. Five years of aging turned the wine into an even more amazing treat. The Cab Franc contributed spice and pepper to dark fruit and deep cherry flavors. It is soft and silky on the tongue. The wine is lively and vibrant, a testament to quality South African winemaking.

With meals like this, we just may make it through this crisis after all. Stay safe, everyone.

Perfecting Pinotage: South Africa’s Signature Red Wine

Pinotage is a South African original – a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. With the right crafting, the grapes produce deep, smoky delight.

In Search of A Heartier Pinot Noir

We can thank Professor Abraham Perold for the delectable Pinotage grape. The first professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University in South Africa, he sought to create a hearty grape with the qualities of Pinot Noir.

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Pinot Noir makes some of the world’s finest wines – but is notoriously hard to grow. Perold created a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir. Cinsault is a sturdy French grape used abundantly in Languedoc-Roussillon reds and rosé from Provence. Perold apparently planted four seeds from his new grape and then forgot about them. Luckily some colleagues later rescued the seedlings and the most robust was dubbed Pinotage. (In South Africa, Cinsault is called Hermitage.)

Today, Pinotage is one of the most widely planted grapes in the country and one of the “Big Six” of the South African wine industry. It is not susceptible to mildew and ripens early in the season, avoiding many pests and diseases that strike other late harvested grapes.

Our experience with Pinotage has been mixed. I’ve had some bad bottles of Pinotage, ones that had off-putting odors and flavors. Thankfully the story continues. When we visited South Africa, we were able to taste a wide range of Pinotage that was flavorful and elegant. We are now on the Pinotage bandwagon.

A Grilled Steak And A Big Red

We recently discovered four new South African Pinotage offerings. To taste Pinotage in style we fired up the grill and cooked an inch-and-a-half Porterhouse steak. I heated the grill to (almost) maximum in order to get a nice sear. After cooking each side for a couple of minutes I added a nice coating of olive oil and Tuscan sea salt to create a flavorful crust. A couple of other steaks joined “Big Daddy” on the grill.

Our choice for the Porterhouse was the 2016 Ashbourne Pinotage from Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. This is a limited production beauty, with just 224 cases produced. It is aged for 16 months in French oak and is enhanced with malolactic fermentation. This is a bold yet graceful wine, which is what we love about South African wines in general.

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There are notes of tea and earth while ripples of blackberry and dark cherry permeate the glass. A perfect pick to go with our hearty wine. Retail price is $57.99.

Following next was the 2017 Lievland Bushvine, a blend of 88% Pinotage, 9% Cinsault, and 3% Shiraz. The wine is made from unirrigated bush vines from the Paarl region producing small, concentrated berries.

This is a smooth wine with savory earth notes accented by black cherry and menthol touches. This is a modern style with pure drinking enjoyment and no off-key notes. The finish has a dash of vanilla. SRP is $18.99.

Two Other Pinotage Options

We can recommend two other Pinotage bottles for your enjoyment. The 2018 Southern Right Pinotage, Walker Bay, has complex berry notes with ample red fruit and earth. SRP is $32.99. A part of your purchase goes to help preserve the rare Southern Right whales.

The 2017 MAN Family Wines Pinotage is an affordable intro to Pinotage at $11.99. It is a soft wine that emphasizes the Pinot Noir characteristics of the wine. It’s from the Agter-Paarl area of South Africa.

If there is a mid-point between Old World and New World, South African wines are it. The classic French influence is strong, dating to the Huguenots settling in the Cape of Good Hope in 1688. Yet the wines themselves display the rich, ripe fruit that highlights New World winemaking.

Pinotage, after being overlooked for many years, is now being embraced and is earning top wine awards in South Africa. It’s a wonder that a wine springing from Pinot Noir and Cinsault can display much more power than its parent grapes.

Pop open a Pinotage and don’t forget the steak!

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Technorati Tags: wine tasting,South African wine,Pinotage,wine review

Eight Cool Rosé Picks To Break Your Summer Heat Wave

Sure, you can go to a movie theater or swimming pool to escape the summer heat. We suggest opening one of these bottles instead.

Heat Busting Rosé

We hosted a recent charity wine tasting at our house to support a local school clothing and supplies drive. Our Sip, Sup and Support event couldn’t have come at a hotter time.

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The mercury has been in the mid-to-upper 90s. The heat index has been topping 100 degrees and this weekend it might be more than 110 degrees.

It wasn’t hard to select the perfect wines for our event – delightfully chilled rosé. We found a fantastic variety with a bottle to tickle the fancy of any attendee. Overheating is a thing of the past with these recommended bottles from Provence, Rhone Valley, South Africa, Paso Robles and Italy.

Miraval Provence Rosé 2018 (SRP $27.99)

Miraval has caught media attention because of celebrity co-owners Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. It also has won over critics with its sensational wines. Light salmon in color, it is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah and Rolle (also known as Vermintino). Perfectly crisp with a touch of cherry flavor.

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STUDIO by Miraval Rosé 2018 (SRP $ $18.99)

This offering is from the wider Mediterranean IGP region in France. It blends Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Tibouren is a black-skinned grape grown mainly in Provence. It lends a greater body and depth to this rosé. It has more fruit and less acidity than the Miraval Provence. Certainly a winner and great value.

La Vieille Ferme Rosé 2018 (SRP $11.99)

This pastel pink rosé hails from the Rhone Valley and is Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. Notes of citrus prevail over flavors of currant and cherry. This is an excellent choice for an everyday rosé. Fresh and food friendly. Only $11.99? A super deal.

Famille Perrin Côtes du Rhône Reserve Rosé 2018 (SRP $13.99)

This blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah is made in the saignée method which results in bolder flavors than the direct press method. There is a nice minerality adding to the delicate flavors and balance.

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé 2018 (SRP $27.99)

This Paso Robles rosé was my favorite. Light peach color in the glass, it is a blend of 76% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre and 4% Counoise. Upon the first sip, I proclaimed it “rose-kissed” for the delicate floral flavors. The Grenache is direct-pressed with saignée used on the other two grapes to provide color and texture. Lemon flavors and salinity add to the intrigue.

Tablas Creek Dianthus Rosé 2018 (SRP $33.99)

This electric pink rosé is a blend of three estate-grown varietals, propagated from budwood cuttings from the Château de Beaucastel estate in France’s Rhone Valley. The collaboration with Château de Beaucastel is what makes Tablas Creek a unique and amazing winery. The Dianthus is 51% Mourvedre, 39% Grenache and 10% Counoise. Watermelon, raspberry and spice flavors are delightfully balanced. This was a divine pairing with our shrimp appetizer.

The Wolftrap Rosé 2018 (SRP $11.99)

We pretty much love anything from Stellenbosch in South Africa. The Wolftrap is a blend of 69% Cinsault, 21% Syrah and 10% Grenache. This is a more forceful rosé with red berry flavors leading the way with a touch of citrus and earthiness. A nice complement to our salmon dish.

Tenuta di Fessina Erse Rosé 2018 (SRP $24.99)

Erse was another crowd favorite. Who wouldn’t want to taste a wine with grapes grown in the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna? The grapes are the Italian varieties Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. The wine is deep raspberry in color. The acidity creates a fresh, vibrant wine with a touch of sour cherry and savory notes. This is a bold rosato and you can taste the volcanic influence. A distinctive and enjoyable bottle indeed.

Full disclosure: These bottles were provided as a marketing sample.

Technorati Tags: rosé,French wine,California wine,wine tasting,Italian wine,South African wine

Môreson 2013 “The Widow Maker” Pinotage, Franschhoek

South Africa’s signature red grape is Pinotage. We broke into our special stash to pair a prized bottle with a vegan meal.

What Pairs With Eggplant?

When our daughter popped into town for Memorial Day, she started cooking up a storm. She’s a vegan chef and baker and takes over the kitchen when visiting. I was told all I had to do was pick the wine. That’s easier said than done when the main dish is moussaka.

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Moussaka is a Mediterranean dish made with eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes and white sauce. Often it includes ground meat – but not in this vegan version. A white wine might work and a Pinot Noir would be an obvious choice. But when others zig, I zag.

I surveyed the bottles in the cellar and grabbed The Môreson 2013 Pinotage from South Africa, dubbed “The Widow Maker.”

We Still Have Wine From South Africa?

When I brought the wine to the dinner table, Green Dragon promptly queried, “we still have wine from South Africa?” Indeed we do – although there might only be one other bottle left. We brought back 11 bottles in our luggage from our trip in 2015.

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South Africa is a wonderful country with amazing scenery, food, wine and people. One of our favorite locales is Franschhoek, a small town in wine country founded by French Huguenots fleeing persecution in Europe. They brought their love of food and skill in winemaking.

Not only is the wine spectacular – but it was inexpensive due to a favorable exchange rate. The pricing allowed us to buy premium bottles for pocket change. Our visit to Môreson was particularly nice as we enjoyed a bottle of sparkling Cap Classique wine and lunch there.

Pinotage Perfection

My memories of South Africa were chased away by the arrival of our first course, a fattoush salad with toasted pita croutons. With that came the first sip of our Pinotage.

Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (which the South Africans call Hermitage). The grape was developed in the 1920s, but didn’t garner much attention until it won several awards in the late 1950s.

While it can be a uniquely satisfying drinking experience, I don’t care for much of the Pinotage out there. It has too much barnyard funk and not enough fruit.

With the Môreson, that is no issue. The Widow Maker is made from the oldest – and original – Pinotage vines in South Africa. It is consistently rated in the top 10 of Pinotage in South Africa – which is similar to having a top 10 cheese in Wisconsin.

Our entrée was served with Middle Eastern green beans and rice and lentil pilaf. The moussaka had a creamy texture thanks to a silky Béchamel sauce. The Widow Maker has a smooth  and rich body – moussaka, you’ve met your match!

There are earth notes in the wine, but the leading flavor is that of juicy black cherry and plum. There are also graphite notes. It’s really a sipping delight. Without a doubt, it is the best Pinotage we’ve had.

The current vintage (2016) is listed on the Môreson website with an R 250 price, which is about $17 US. That’s an outlandishly good price for this wine which would be a $40 to $50 bottle if produced in the US.

Women Emerging As Family Winery Leaders

From marketing brands to making the wines, or managing the winery, these women at family owned wineries often do it all.

Vineyard Brands is a small wine importer that handles family wineries exclusively. Three of those wineries feature  a trio of women who are making their mark on the wine world: Amélie Dugue-Couillaud of Frères Couillaud in the Loire Valley, Berene Sauls of Tesselaarsdal Wines of South Africa, and Olive Hamilton-Russell of Hamilton Russell Vineyards of South Africa.

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While these three inspirational women own or co-own wineries, their path to wine is very different. United by wine, a love for their families, and a desire to be part of a wine legacy around the globe, these women strive for success in all aspects of their businesses.

Born Into Wine: Amélie Dugue-Couillaud, Frères Couillaud

Why the wine business?

“I was born in it! I lived surrounded by vines. For my sister and me, our playground was the Muscadet vineyard. My dad has always been passionate about wine and travel, and he passed these two passions down to me. I’m the seventh generation of winemaker and it’s so special to be able to be part of this family story. Every day is different. The wine business is also about human relationships, sharing moments and time with partners and family and friends from around the world…and always around wine and food. What is better than that?”

Amélie Dugue-Couillaud of Frères Couillaud

What is the biggest challenge for you—as a woman and as a business person? And on the flip-side, what gives you the most joy in the wines business?

“Day to day the biggest challenge is just finding time, just like many working women. I have four children and work full-time. Need I say more? But for me, it’s all about finding a balance between time with my family and the excitement of work. From the vineyards to the cellar, seeing everyone try to do their very best for the winery gives me so much happiness. No matter the job, each member of the team is so important and part of our success.”

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“Keep your motivation- remember why you started and don’t stay in your corner. People will feel your passion.”

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If you hadn’t been in the wine business, what would you have done?

“No question, I would have been a painter. I love to paint. Maybe one day I still will…when I find enough time.”

Grew Into Wine: Olive Hamilton-Russell, Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Olive Hamilton-Russell of
Hamilton Russell Vineyards

Why the wine business?

“Quite honestly, love. I grew up on a cattle farm in South Africa, where wine isn’t really part of the way of life. I moved to the Cape to study food science and nutrition before moving to London for work. It was when I moved to London and worked in the food department at Harvey Nichols that I started to learn about wine and realized how fascinating it is. That experience led me to take wine appreciation courses. When I returned to South Africa, I met Anthony who had just bought Hamilton Russell Vineyards from his family. We are so grateful to do something we love, together.”

What is the biggest challenge for you—as a woman and as a business person? And on the flipside, what gives you the most joy in the wines business?

“Managing time is probably my biggest daily challenge. Balancing time spent engaged in the various aspects of the business—the vineyard, cellar, finance, sales and marketing, hosting visitors, local and international travel—and also time with family requires so much planning. And ensuring we have the right team both day to day and long term, so that hopefully wine will be made on our farm for years to come. But all the work to upgrade this special piece of earth we are lucky enough to live on brings us endless joy—whether it’s organic and some biodynamic farming practices, planting more indigenous trees, clearing our nature reserve of invasive alien species, properly establishing beehives. And of course, sharing our wines and the happiness they bring is pretty special.”

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“To always stay positive!”

If you hadn’t been in the wine business, what would you have done?

“I am a farm girl at heart. And I love the wine business because it is farming and so much more. I honestly can’t think of anything else that could bring me such fulfillment.”

Found Wine: Berene Sauls, Tesselaarsdal

Berene Sauls of Tesselaarsdal Wines

Why the wine business?

“I started my career at a wine estate in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Hamilton Russell Vineyards. But not in the wine business. I was an au pair for the family who owned the estate. But I was very curious to know why the wines were so sought after and decided to learn and experience the delicate process from grape to bottle. I assisted in the cellar and vineyard during harvests, in the wine certification
administration, and even export logistics and packaging. After a few years, Anthony Hamilton Russell presented me with the opportunity to start my own wine business as a wine producer. I focused on Pinot Noir and my palate was basically shaped by these wines. I named my business Tesselaarsdal, the name of my hometown.

What is the biggest challenge for you—as a woman and as a business person? And on the flipside, what gives you the most joy in the wines business?

“I am involved in every aspect- from picking the grapes to stomping, punch downs, bottling and labeling. I handle marketing by myself and I head up a team of six ladies that assist with packaging, stock control, and more. Balancing all the aspects of the business and making sure each customer knows that each bottle was personally handled, and great care and effort went into the product is a challenge. But it is also such a joy to experience the success of each vintage and the feedback from consumers all around the world. Knowing that this is the legacy I leave for my two sons Darren and Calem is very special.”

What is the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“Never compromise on quality.”

If you hadn’t been in the wine business, what would you have done?

“I had no idea what I wanted to do after school. I enrolled as a fighting officer in the South African Defense Force just after finishing school!”

Mother Rock “Force Celeste” 2016 Chenin Blanc, Swartland

Is Chenin Blanc an overlooked white? Perhaps, but it is embraced in South Africa. We dive into a bottle from Swartland to learn more.

Famous French Roots

We are fans of Chenin Blanc and lovers of South African wine. I recently purchased a bottle of the 2016 Force Celeste Chenin in the discount room at Great Grapes in Cary.

When the International Drink Chenin Day rolled around, it was a perfect time to open this South African bottle.

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Chenin Blanc is a French grape that reaches perhaps its best expression in the Loire Valley of France. It is the grape used in Vouvray, producing refreshing wines ranging from off-dry to sweet. It is also used in sparkling wines in the Loire region of Saumur.

South Africa has been producing Chenin Blanc for centuries, although there it is often called Steen. Unfortunately, only a small trickle of South Africa’s best wines make it to the US. There is a flood, though, of lower priced and lower quality South African Chenin Blanc. These wines are often produced by cooperatives and are non-descript compared to the elegant Chenin Blanc wines made by the top producers.

Celestial Chenin

The Force Celeste pushed three buttons for me: Chenin Blanc, South Africa and Swartland. In the last decade, Swartland has emerged as a fine wine region. As a result, I grabbed it immediately when I spotted it on the store shelf.

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Force Celeste is made from a selection of old dry-farmed bush vines grown on decomposed granite. No enzymes, yeast or acid were added. The bottle is also unfiltered and unfined. The label art is also appealing, showing a trio of lightning bolts racing from an ominous cloud in a bold woodcut style design.

Chenin is a very accessible grape – it’s easy to enjoy. The Force Celeste is primarily aged in steel tanks to retain the fresh flavors with 20% aged in neutral French oak barrels. The wine spent nine months on the lees (the dead yeast cells and sediment) to impart deeper flavors.

We opened this on a day when it was smothering hot. The Celeste Force has nice pineapple notes with a vein of minerality. There is a lilting twist of acidity.

The wine retails for about $21 and I was able to pick it up for $15. That’s a tasty deal. If you haven’t tried Chenin Blanc before, I suggest you give it a swirl. Force Celeste is a nice bottle to begin your exploration.

Technorati Tags: Chenin blanc,South African wine,white wine,wine tasting,wine lover

Chamonix 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir, Franschhoek

Pinot Noir from South Africa is not as well known as that from Oregon or France. Just one sip may make you wonder why this is so.

Out Of The Blacksmith Shop

One or our great wine adventures was our trip to South Africa, which included a visit to Franschhoek, the food and wine capital of the country. Chamonix wine farm was a memorable stop on our tour.

The Chamonix tasting room is in a blacksmith cottage. Outside there was a spectacular view of the mountains and an elevated views of the picturesque Franschhoek Valley. The area was settled by French Huguenots who brought with them their winemaking tradition.

The top-of-the-line tasting cost a mere $3.22 US due to the favorable exchange rate. We were enchanted by the Reserve Pinot Noir and picked up this bottle for $22 US.

A South African Spin On Pinot

The Reserve Pinot is naturally fermented and is made from the best blocks of Pinot Noir, which flourish in the Greywacke soil. Greywacke is a dark sandstone soil with quartz feldspar. The wine is aged for 16 months in French oak.

One of the reasons we love South African wine is that although it is considered “New World,” the techniques and focus are old world. The wines have subtle flavors and a finesse designed to accompany foods – as opposed to the bold flavors of New World wines often quaffed on their own.

The Chamonix had an earthy quality punctuated by raspberry and rhubarb flavor notes. It’s a complex wine with layers of flavors and even a dash of toffee.

This bottle was none the worse from being stuffed into our luggage for the long trip from South Africa. With some wines there is a type of “buyer’s remorse” perhaps more aptly named the “winery effect.” A bottle sampled in a scenic tasting room leaves you scratching your head asking, “What was I thinking” when you sample it at home. But with the best wines – like this one – the memories of our incredible travels came flooding back with each sip.

Three cheers for Chamonix and the superlative wines of Franschhoek!