Oregon’s Umpqua Valley Wineries Deliver Boutique Excellence

The second of our two-part look at Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, a region ripe with innovation and diverse grape varieties.

Our trip to Umpqua Valley during the Wine Media Conference was a true eye-opener. The WMC, held in Eugene, Oregon, featured an excursion hosted by the Umpqua Valley Winegrowers, and we gleefully hopped on board.

See Part 1 of our Umpqua Valley feature here.

What surprised us was the diversity packed into this relatively small AVA, sized 65 miles north to south and 25 east to west. The microclimates varied drastically as we traveled from cool maritime regions to warmer inland areas.

It is said that this region, which boasts 23 wineries (mostly family-owned and operated), should rightly be called the Hundred Valleys of the Umpqua due to its unique topography. We loved this unique aspect of the region and the bountiful boutique wine.

Here we continue our look at Umpqua wineries:

Cooper Ridge Vineyard – 1389 Old Garden Valley Road, Roseburg

Cooper Ridge would make our list of top wineries on its smashing location alone. Perched on top of Dynamite Ridge, the tasting room has a sweeping view of the 25-acre estate and scenic mountains. The winery makes limited-production premium Oregon wines from estate-grown Merlot, Viognier, Syrah, Tempranillo, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Noir.

Favorites here included the vibrant 2020 Vineyard Cuvee, a fresh blend of Viognier, Grüner and Riesling. In red wines, we loved the 2016 Tempranillo, which had lovely savory notes with dried fig and mocha. The cooling breeze in the valley allows the production of robust reds, like the 2016 Syrah, that just aren’t possible in northern Oregon.

Spangler Vineyards – 491 Winery Lane, Roseburg

Visiting Spangler Vineyards is akin to taking a masterclass in premium red wines. Winemaker and owner Bob Spangler has been making wine for 32 years with a focus on big, bold reds. After becoming enchanted with Pacific Northwest wine, he purchased what is now Spangler Vineyards in 2004. The rest, as they say, is history.

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He makes wine from all six major Bordeaux varieties and also includes Italian and Rhone varieties in his range. He produces a blockbuster 2017 Claret with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. This is a balanced wine with rich cherry, herb, and spice notes. Another standout is the 2016 Khayan’s Block Dolcetto, which enchants with blackberry, pepper and violet flavors.

Abacela – 12500 Lookingglass Road, Roseburg

Abacela is a pioneering winery that produces world-class wine. The conditions were perfect for our visit as we enjoyed a charcuterie plate and sipped in the superb wines and panoramic scenery. Owners Earl and Hilda Jones launched a quest to see if the Spanish grape Tempranillo could be grown in the US. In 1995 Abacela became the first commercial Tempranillo vineyard in the Pacific Northwest. The winery’s name derives from the Spanish verb “bachelor,” which means to plant a grapevine. In 1998, the Tempranillo won double gold in an international competition against all Spanish Tempranillos.

The winery has 30 different combinations of soil types and elevation changes across its 76 acres of vines. Another Spanish grape, Albariño is also grown. The crisp and light wine rivals that of Spain’s finest region: Rías Baixas. We sampled two Tempranillo: the 2018 Fiesta and the 2017 Reserve Tempranillo. The Fiesta is a lighter, fruit-driven wine. The Reserve is from the oldest block of Tempranillo and, on the Spanish scale, would fit between a Reserva and a Gran Reserva. It is a spectacular wine. If you are looking for a unique grape, try the Tinta Amarela which features flavors of blueberry, vanilla, and dried raspberries.

Delfino Vineyards - 3829 Colonial Road, Roseburg

Delfino is a 160-acre boutique winery growing Tempranillo, Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernet, Dolcetto, Merlot and Müller-Thurgau grapes. Owners Jim and Terri Delfino also have 10 cows and 22 chickens. Jim was asked if he was going to farm or have a winery to which Jim responded, “Why can’t we do both?”

I was very pleased to see Müller-Thurgau on the wine list. Leading with peach and citrus flavors it has a crisp finish and is a delightful change of pace from Riesling. We tasted the 2017 vintages of Dolcetto, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah – the latter hitting it out of the park with blueberry and plum notes and integrated tannins.

Melrose Vineyards - 885 Melqua Road, Roseburg

Melrose is a landmark winery in Southern Oregon. Located on the bench of the South Umpqua River, it is on the site of an early French settlement and since the 1880s a variety of crops have been grown there. Today, luckily for us, the crops are a dozen grape varieties used for premium wine.

The tasting room is located in a 100-year-old barn rebuilt to maintain its structural integrity and with breathtaking views. Our roasted vegetable lasagna meal showed that Melrose is an unforgettable location for food and wine experiences. We found some great surprises in the wine with Pinotage, Baco Noir, and the 2016 Parker’s Pinot – perhaps the best Pinot we enjoyed on the trip.

HillCrest Vineyard – 24 Vineyard Lane, Roseburg

With all the attention focused on Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, it’s tempting to overlook the unique premium wines of Umpqua Valley to the south. That would be a mistake since Oregon Pinot Noir originated here – at HillCrest Vineyard to be more specific. Founder Richard Sommer is credited with planting the first Pinot Noir in the state in 1961 and is also home to the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines (1964). HillCrest is the first post-Prohibition winery in Oregon.

With current owner Dyson Demara, the heritage of the winery is in good hands. He focuses on “slow wine” with dry-farmed vines, low yields and traditional techniques. “If it wasn’t used 100 years ago, I don’t use it,” said DeMara. The wines are simply superb with the 2007 Pinot Noir having bright cherry notes with light body and subtle oak. The 2016 Old Stones Teraldago is a rare grape with intense blackberry and plum flavors.

Paul O’Brien Winery - 609 SE Pine St., Roseburg

The first thing to know is that there is no Paul O’Brien. The winery is a collaboration between Scott O’Brien Kelley and Dyson Paul DeMara, winemakers and good friends. Together they launched Umpqua Valley’s first urban winery in a historic Chevy dealership building.

The wines represent Old World traditions and New World techniques. We love Sauvignon Blanc, especially when it is offered as Fume Blanc. The 2020 vintage is smoky with tropical fruit notes and a crisp finish. We tasted the 2020 Pinot Noir as a barrel sample. It has a long way to go, but the prospects are intriguing. The 2016 Tempranillo is rich and oaky thanks to two years of French oak aging. The flagship wine is the 2014 La Dame, a Merlot-focused blend with Cab Franc and Malbec. It is a wine fit for royalty.

More Umpqua Wineries To Savor

There is so much to see and experience in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley wine county. Be sure to check out these wineries we also tasted/visited during our trip along with two “can’t miss” Umpqua restaurants.

Knostman Family Winery – Enjoy small lot wines along the scenic North Umpqua River.

Lexème Wines – Exceptional wines with a European flair. Tasting room in Elkton.

Trella Vineyards – Vines from the base of the Callahan Mountains produce an array of wines including Grüner Veltliner, Baco Noir and Sangiovese. Tasting room in Roseburg.

Triple Oak Vineyard – Micro-producer of fine wines located in the historic community of Oakland.

The Parrot House – World-class cuisine served in a historic home and restaurant in Roseburg.  Established in 1891. Features Reform Bourbon Bar.

Catch 22 Fish and Chips - Specializing in British style "Fish n' Chips" with a focus on fresh, local fish and sustainable seafood with a Pacific Northwest styling.

Umpqua Valley A Surprising Find In Oregon Wine Country

The first of our two-part look at Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, a region ripe with innovation and diverse grape varieties.

Oregon wine continues to grow in popularity and reputation. The state has 21 AVAs and contributes more than $7 billion annually to the Oregon economy. Much of the buzz focuses on Willamette Valley and its Pinot Noir, but further south in Umpqua Valley, there is a world of quality wine unknown to most wine lovers.

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The Umpqua Valley sits between the Cascades to the east and the Coastal Range to the west. It stretches 65 miles from north to south and is 25 miles wide and is nestled between Willamette Valley to the north and Rogue Valley to the South.

Its wine history dates back to the 1880s, when German immigrants established the first vineyard and winery, producing an estimated 22,000 gallons of wine. The region has quite a few firsts. Between 1959 and 1961, Richard Sommer, a winemaking pioneer in the Umpqua Valley planted 36 acres of vinifera grapes, including Oregon’s first Pinot Noir, despite warnings from his U.C. Davis educators that grapes will not grow in Oregon.

The Umpqua Valley AVA was founded in 1984 and innovation continued. In 1984, Abacela Winery planted the first Tempranillo in the Northwest. In 2001 the winery planted the first Albariño vines in the Northwest. In 2003-2005, Steve Reustle of Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards planted and produced the first commercial Grüner Veltliner.

The region historically was home to vineyard plots of five to 30 acres. Today larger vineyards from 100 to 200 acres are planted. The number of grape varieties has expanded to include Syrah, Tempranillo, and Grenache. In fact, the 30 family-owned wineries of Umpqua Valley grow 40 different wine varieties.

We recently had a chance to tour Umpqua Valley during the Wine Media Conference in an excursion hosted by the Umpqua Valley Winegrowers Association. Here’s a look at five impressive Umpqua Valley wineries and we’ll continue with winery reports in our second part.

Meadows Estate Winery - 175 Hogan Road, Oakland, Oregon

Formerly MarshAnne Landing, this winery was purchased by Dexter and Marilyn Meadows in 2019. Meadows Estate Winery is 17 acres of deep, cobbled volcanic soil and features 10 varieties. We tried the first two wines that are “their own,” the 2017 White Grenache and the 2017 Syrah Rosé. The focus is on Rhone and Bordeaux varieties. Be sure to check out the Cote du Umpqua, a Rhone-style blend of 50-50 Grenache and Syrah.

Their goal is to produce “out of this world” wines. With a stylish tasting room that features a deck with scenic views and beautiful estate wines, Meadows Estate Winery is ready for liftoff.

Brandborg Vineyard and Winery - 345 First Street, Elkton, Oregon

Brandborg Vineyard and Winery are located in Elkton, the coolest and most maritime climate in the Umpqua Valley. I was familiar with their elegant Pinot Noir but got my introduction to their Alsace-style white wines during my visit. With just a touch of sweetness, their Bradley Vineyard Riesling is one of the top sellers in Oregon. The 2015 Bradley Vineyard Gewürztraminer is an award-winner with citrus and green apple notes.

The array of 11 different Pinot Noir includes the 2014 Ferris Wheel Pinot Noir, limited to 465 cases and supple with blackberry, spice, and cherry notes.  The Ferris Wheel Vineyard is the most westerly in Umpqua Valley and stands at 1,000 feet and just 30 miles from the ocean. For a treat, try the 2018 2018 Fleur de Lis (White) Pinot Noir.

Bradley Vineyards and River’s Edge Winery - 1395 River Drive, Elkton, Oregon

We tasted wine from these outstanding wineries at River’s Edge. Bradley Vineyards was founded by John and Richard Bradley and sold almost all of the crops to wineries around Oregon. When friends opened the River’s Edge Winery, it provided an opportunity to begin producing a small amount of wine under the Bradley Vineyard label.

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Our tasting began with the River’s Edge 2019 Aligoté. There’s not much of this white grape to be found in the US market. It’s light and crisp with a delicious minerality. In a bottle with a distinctive piece of art, the River’s Edge Cascade is a Pinot Noir pet nat wine with just the right amount of bubbles and a nice unfiltered texture.

The 35th Leaf Edition (it’s their 35 harvest) 2018 Skin Contact Gewürztraminer from Bradley takes Gewürz and stands it on its ear. The unique orange color comes from skin contact during primary fermentation. The bouquet is a blast of roses, which gives way to tree-fruit and spicy flavors. Their 2018 My Bon Pinot Noir uses Pommard and Wadenswil clones. It’s a classic beauty.

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards - 960 Cal Henry Road, Roseburg, Oregon

Our lunch stop was at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards and, if I had my way, I would still be at the winery! Owner and winemaker Stephen Reustle has carved an impressive wine estate in the shadow of Tyee Mountain. There are 14 grape varieties planted among the 40 acres of vines. The complex includes a winery and tasting cave as well as an observation deck and amphitheater.

Inside the wine cave, we were treated to a gourmet meal with a salmon entrée. In 2005, Reustle became the first winery in the US to commercially produce Grüner Veltliner. The 2018 Grüner has a big mouthfeel and round mineral flavors, perfect for our fish dish. We closed with a cheese course that featured the 2019 Syrah. Their 2012 Syrah took the title of Best Syrah in the World in the 6 Nations Wine Challenge. It’s a savory wine with blackberry and cocoa notes.

There is indeed a Prayer Rock, a large boulder at the top of a south-facing slope that served as a meeting place for Stephen and his son. Reustle Prayer Rock is an answer to a wine lover’s prayer.

More fun in Umpqua Valley in the second part of our story, coming soon.

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery Offers Cool Taste of the Umpqua Valley

Terry Brandborg and wife Sue searched high and low for the perfect spot to produce Pinot Noir. They ended up in Elkton, in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. Their vineyard in the coastal mountains has proved ideal for crafting award-winning wines.

We were fortunate to sample three of their current offerings: the 2009 Ferris Wheel Vineyard Pinot Noir, the 2012 Oregon Riesling from the new Elkton AVA, and the 2006 Syrah.

Brandborg’s location is unique in the Umpqua Valley, which is in Southern Oregon and known for being hotter and drier than the areas to the north. Elkton, however, is unique. The vineyard is only 25 miles from the ocean and this allows for marine breezes and fog to penetrate into the valley. The climate is a main reason why Elkton was designated as its own AVA in February of this year (it is a sub-region of Umpqua Valley which itself is part of the Southern Oregon AVA).

Brandborg 2012 Oregon Riesling, Elkton AVA – This is the first wine ever bottled from the new Elkton AVA.Wines with Elkton on the label will certainly be worth checking out. The wine is light gold in the glass with medium body. Grapes come from the Bradley Vineyard and offer rich fruit with the taste of apples. There is a pleasant acidity and the finish is off-dry and long-lasting.

Brandborg 2006 Umpqua Valley Syrah – This is a full-bodied wine with tart berry flavors. We decanted this wine to soften the tannins. The wine features Syrah grapes from the warmer areas of the Umpqua Valley and there is a peppery finish. This is a robust wine.

Brandborg 2009 Ferris Wheel Vineyard Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley – This is a wine to treasure. In the glass it is a translucent red brick color. It features complex flavors of luscious cherry with smoke, some earthiness and a pinch of tea leaf. The finish is nice and long. This is an elegant wine that we savored in our Oregon Pinot Noir glasses, all the better to sniff and swirl. It is one of our top rated Pinots this year.

Some say Willamette Valley is the benchmark for Pinot. During the 2012 Wine Bloggers Conference we had a chance to taste bountiful wines from there and they are indeed good. The distinctive wines from Umpqua Valley caught my attention during that meeting, simply because they were making wines uncommon to Oregon.

This trio of Brandborg wines has allowed us to further explore the wines of Umpqua. After this tasting we say, don’t overlook the undiscovered gems of Umpqua Valley, the new Elkton AVA and very specifically, the great wines of Brandborg.

Technorati Tags: wine,Umpqua Valley,Pinot Noir,Oregon wine

These wines were received as a marketing sample.

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