German Riesling, Rosé, And A Surprise

Think you know German wine? You’ll be surprised by the diverse assortment of grapes and styles.

If your knowledge of German wine goes no further than Riesling, it’s not a bad thing. The cold climate and its sloping vineyards helped Germany develop world-class wines.

You should know, however, that simple sweet Riesling isn’t a true representation of German Riesling anymore. Drier Riesling has increased in production and masterful winemaking has balanced acidity and sweetness to produce wines that shine with a full spectrum of flavors without swamping you with sugar.

We sampled the Eva Fricke 2020 Trocken Riesling from Rheingau. The “trocken” means dry, but it doesn’t lessen the elegance of this bottle.

Juicy notes of lemon drop and apple fill this silky wine. At just 12.5% ABV, this is a light, food-friendly wine. The finish is dry and very satisfying.

If your knowledge of German wine is limited to Riesling, it is time to expand. Here’s a good place to start. The Seehof 2021 Pinot Noir Rosé comes from Germany’s Rheinhessen, a region known as the land of a thousand hills. Pinot Noir is Germany’s most popular red grape. For rosé lovers, this is great news as Pinot makes great blush wines. While prices of rosé continues to climb, this crystal-clear wine delivers everything you want for a price of about $19. Grown in limestone soil, this wine has an easy-going grace. Flavors of red apples and strawberries flow generously and keep you coming back for another glass.

Terraces Red, Vineyard Project 002 (2020) is a project of Weingut Roterfaden and the local Rosswag Co-Op. Rosswag is a small village located about 30 miles from Stuttgart. The village is surrounded by an ancient amphitheater of towering, steep, terraced vineyards. The terraces are over 1,000 years old and include 23 miles of stone walls.

From these historic vineyards comes a unique blend of 55% Lemberger, 25% Trollinger, 10% Regent, and 10% Schwarzriesling. Schwarzriesling is also known as Pinot Meunier. Trollinger is little-known but is a fragrant, late-blooming grape.

Together they make an entrancing wine with extracted flavors of cranberry, red fruit, and apple peel. Very light tannins and a low ABV keep this easy on the tongue. The wine also has a vibrant character with brambles, and herbal and pine notes.

This wine is organic and biodynamic. It’s one of the most unique wines to hit our tasting table and we’re thirsty for more. It retails for about $15 if you can find it.

Full disclosure: This wine was received as a marketing sample.

Richard Böcking 2019 Böcking Riesling, Mosel Valley

 Reach for Summer Refreshment With Riesling

Riesling is the most versatile white grape. It can be finished sweet or dry in a variety of styles and with different flavor profiles. The art of Riesling is perfected in Germany. A case in point is the Richard Böcking 2019 Böcking Riesling. This off-dry Riesling comes from the Middle Mosel Valley, where vines have been planted since Roman times.

The grapes come from the steep Trarbacher Taubenhaus estate vineyard. The grapes are finished in stainless steel to preserve the blooming, floral taste. It’s fresh and light. We found this Riesling interesting because it has distinct herbal and honeysuckle flavors with the light sweetness not interfering with the delicate nuances. This is a unique grape and a unique wine that we truly enjoyed.

Five thousand bottles were produced for the US.

Full disclosure: This wine was received as a marketing sample.

German Riesling Sound Choice For Sultry Summer

As temperatures climb, it’s time to reach for the cool refreshment of German Riesling.

If things are heating up in your part of the world, we have two excellent suggestions for cool white wines. We tried a pair of Rieslings from Germany and although distinct in style, they are united in offering delicious taste and prices that make them excellent values.

Riesling From Rheinhessen

The 2016 Dr. Heyden Oppenheimer Kabinett Riesling is a beautiful wine, juicy and balanced. The estate was founded in the Oppenheimer region of Rheinhessen by Dr. Karl Heyden in 1999. Today the work is carried on by his sons. The Riesling vines average 25 years of age and are grown in loam soil rich in limestone.

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The first sip is mouth-watering thanks to abundant acidity. The flavor profile includes honey, apricot, and lime zest. A beautiful seam of salinity punctuates this wine.

This is slightly off-dry with RS of 1.5%, which provides a generous rainbow of flavor. ABV is 11.5%, so it complements rather than overpowers food. Spicy dishes like Thai cuisine would be a good choice.

Secret In The Slate

Clean Slate Riesling has been a favorite of ours for many years (the first vintage was 2005). This is a “go-to” wine that is widely available in restaurants and stores and is appreciated by wine aficionados or newbies. That takes some of the guesswork out of entertaining.

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The name of the wine isn’t just clever marketing. This Riesling is from from Mosel. This region is famed for its Riesling as well as its thin slate stones in its soil. The slate reflects and retains heat, which allows the perfect ripening of the grapes in the chilly German climate. So precious are the slate stones that slip from the Clean Slate vineyard into the river are collected and carried back to their place up the treacherous slopes. 

Grapes for the 2019 vintage come from the upper, lower, and middle parts of the Mosel River Valley each contributing its own unique characteristic. Notes of apple and pear swirl with a touch of sweetness. The residual sugar is a touch higher (2.3%) than the Dr. Heyden, but the acid and minerality provide a counterbalance that results in a balanced wine. The alcohol is a low 10.9% and the stainless steel finishing keeps the flavor crisp and clean. Asian cuisine, pork, fish, and poultry are good choices with Clean Slate.

Both wines sell for less than $15 and represent a great value.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Ravines Wine Cellars Dazzles With Small Production Gems

Pioneering winemaker crafts European-style wines in the Finger Lakes.

Rock The Ravines

Ravines Wine Cellars was one of the first Finger Lakes wineries that captured our hearts. Setting out on a road trip from Ohio on the advice of neighbors we aimed for a wine destination we were told would perfectly suit our palates.

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In our salad days, the first wines we enjoyed were sweet white wines from Germany. For years we opted only for sweet Riesling wines and similar ilk. Perhaps it is inevitable, but as years came and went, our palates became drier and we became more discerning in our wine.

Riesling was set aside, because we believed it was only sweet (as opposed to the world’s most versatile white grape!). Then we learned of the Finger Lakes and their refreshingly dry style of Riesling. We packed up the car and headed for the promised land.

Keuka Lake was one of the first stops on that trip back in 2009 as we swept from west to east. It was there we were first introduced to Ravines, the passion of winemaker Morten Hallgren and his chef wife Lisa. The winery has since expanded to include not only the original tasting room on Keuka, but a production facility and tasting room on Seneca Lake near Geneva.

International Roots Run Deep

Morten is Danish by birth, and grew up on his parents’ winery in the French Côtes de Provence. While Lisa trained in the culinary arts, Morten gained a degree from one of France’s top winemaking school and went to work in Burgundy’s famed Medóc region.

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Wine positions in Texas and the Biltmore Winery in Asheville, NC, then led Morten to a chief winemaker position at Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars in the Finger Lakes. The job allowed the couple to see the potential for crafting premium cool-climate wines in the region. They purchased their original parcel of 17 acres of land on the steep eastern slop of Keuka between two ravines and began making wine. The holding has since expanded to 130 acres.

Morten describes his technique as transparent winemaking, striving to grow the best grapes possible while being good stewards of the land. Sustainable farming and organic methods are used in line with this philosophy.

A Taste Of Excellence

We were delighted to have the chance to taste three of Ravine’s current releases: 2017 Dry Riesling, 2018 Cabernet Franc, and the 2018 Maximilien red blend.

2017 Dry Riesling

We paired the Dry Riesling with teriyaki-glazed salmon steaks. The wine is an example of what makes Finger Lakes Riesling the best (in our opinion) in the United States.

The grapes come from the White Springs Vineyard and the 16 Falls Vineyard, one vineyard is on each side of Seneca Lake. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed and aged on light lees.

The wine has delicate flavors of juicy apple and citrus perfectly balanced with light acidity. It’s all bound together with flowing minerality. It’s a perfect food wine, as we discovered with our meal. At an SRP of $17.95, this is a great bargain. Ravines also has single vineyard Rieslings, and we love the Argetsinger Vineyard Riesling.

2018 Cabernet Franc

The standout red in the Finger Lakes is Cabernet Franc, which does particularly well in cool climates. This bottle was a delight from first drop to last.

I put on my chef’s apron to whip up Shrimp & Corn Cakes with Salsa for our pairing. Fainter souls might have opted for a white wine, but I know Cab Franc can be a melodious match with a wide range of entrees. My faith was justified.

The wine undergoes oak aging, but the accent is on balance and minerality. It's a beauty that rocks with juicy plum, strawberry, and herbal notes. The wine gets malolactic fermentation, which contributes to the soft and smooth texture. French and Slovenian/Austrian oak barrels were used. At $21.95, it’s an amazing value.

2017 Maximilien

One of my favorite reds during my first visit more than a decade ago was the Meritage. Red Meritage is the US equivalent of a Bordeaux blend and the use of the name is limited to a winery’s best red blend. I was disappointed to learn that Ravines no longer made Meritage – but I was soaring again when I learned that they had simply named their premium red blend Maximilien.

Maximilien is a 54% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon formulation. It opens with tart cherries and blackberries with a distinct savory note. Maximilien puts the focus on rich, expressive fruit. It gets 17 months in French and American oak, with 18% being new. There is a note of sweet oak and on the finish, there is an enjoyable toasted oak flavor.

This wine expresses the spirit of Finger Lakes red wine excellence. There is no need to mimic a bombastic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Instead, the terroir and fruit lead in another direction: red wines that are accessible, artistic, and true to the grapes. This is a red wine bonanza at $24.95.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Plob 2016 Cliffhanger Riesling, Mosel

Looking for food-friendly, easy-going wine? Look no further than this Mosel Riesling.

Riesling Rendezvous

What is the world’s most versatile wine grape? Probably Riesling.

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It can be finished into austere, bone-dry wine, or into a succulent late harvest bottle. Depending on the winemaker, it can land anywhere in between.

Our most recent rendezvous with Riesling was during a socially-distant game night with relatives. As you can see, they had another traveler with them, Kiwi the parrot!

We opened the 2016 Cliffhanger Riesling. This is produced by PLOB, which is the project of winegrowers Axel Pauly, Thomas Ludwig, Sebastian Oberbillig and Markus Berres – hence the company name.

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The grapes come from the steep, rocky soils of the Mosel Valley. The vines root deeply into the soil. The slate rocks absorb, then radiate back, heat from the sun. The steep slopes guarantee added sunlight hours and the Mosel River helps moderate the chilly weather. The long growing season allows the grapes to develop aromatics and character.

The four producers ferment their grapes separately and then the wines are blended together. Then it is aged “sur lee” on the dead yeast and sediment to gain a creamy texture.

This is a feinherb (slightly sweet) wine, but one that we find to be balanced. In the glass this is a pale yellow with green highlights. There are flavors of apple and peach wound together with mineral notes.

The wine is vibrant and a good pick with seafood or Asian cuisine. Of course, it is great on its own.

Full disclosure: This wine was received as a marketing sample.

Corning & Southern Finger Lakes Offer A Bounty Of Incredible Wine

Seeking world-class white wine? Look no further than New York’s Keuka Lake.

A Wine Playground

We’ve trotted the globe in search of adventure and exemplary wine. While Italy’s Alps and the old vine Shiraz of Australia are impressive, the Finger Lakes region is perhaps our favorite place for wine adventures.

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The Native American legend says that the Great Spirit loved the central New York State region so much that he placed his hands on the land. The imprint filled with crystal water and became the Finger Lakes (although there are 11 of them!).

During a recent International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association webinar with Corning & The Southern Finger Lakes we had a chance to revisit our favorite wine playground. The webinar included a tasting of three superb white wines.

The sensational wine is just part of the story. Corning and the Southern Finger Lakes is a 4½-hour drive from New York City and about four hours from Philadelphia. It is a world away, though, with small town Americana charm plus world class attractions.

Corning has been voted the Most Fun Small Town and Hammondsport has been named one of the country’s best small lake towns. We’ve enjoyed visits to both over the years. In addition to great dining and shops, Corning also has the Corning Museum of Glass, which has the world’s largest collection of glass art. Its collection spans 3,500 years.

Keuka Lake is known as the crooked Finger Lake, being shaped like a “Y.” While we have enjoyed wine tastings on Seneca, Cayuga, and Canandaigua, we have special affection for Keuka.

Nearby Hammondsport is a wonderful small town with a perfect town square surrounded by restaurants and shops. It’s a short distance from the three wineries highlighted during our webinar.

Towering Trio

In addition to representatives of the Steuben (stew-BEN) County convention and visitors bureau, three wineries were featured: Domaine LeSeurre, Weis Vineyards, and Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery. It is a great snapshot representing the quality wines of the region.

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Domaine LeSeurre 2017 Chardonnay Unoaked Cuvée Classique – Sébastien LeSeurre and wife Céline craft wines using their taste and feelings. “If you make wine with numbers, your wine will taste like numbers,” he said during the webinar. Both Céline and  Sébastien are from France with deep family roots in winemaking. They are the winemaking team for Domaine LeSeurre and with the Chardonnay Cuvée they have crafted a wonderful food wine.

The wine is fermented 100% in stainless steel and undergoes battonage for 10 months. Grapes are sourced from two Finger Lakes vineyards, one predominantly shalestone and the other clay. The wine has tropical fruit and honey notes. There is a flowing minerality and great balance.

Weis Vineyards 2019 Dry Riesling – Hans Peter Weis was born in the Mosel region of Germany and spent his youth in the vineyards and wine cellar of his family’s winery. He decided to pursue his winemaking passion in the US and tried one vintage in Sonoma before stumbling upon the Finger Lakes. Here he found the soils and climate similar to home and the perfect location to handcraft German-style wines.

We paired the Weis Riesling with a vegan meal of crispy tofu with orange sauce and stir-fried vegetables. Our daughter is a vegan chef and outdid herself with this delicious meal. While we had visited the other two featured wineries, this was our first taste of Weis (pronounced VICE) and it did not disappoint.

The wine has refreshing minerality with lime notes and a crackling acidity. There are flavor notes of wet stones and apple. This is an amazing wine and for those who aren’t familiar with the dry style of Riesling, this bottle will be a game-changer. Superb!

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2019 Rkatsitelli – Meaghan Frank is the great-granddaughter of Konstantin Frank, the Ukrainian immigrant whose determination and skill changed the course of wine history in the Finger Lakes. It was previously thought that New York was only suitable for table wines made with native grapes and that vitis vinifera, or noble grapes, would never grow there. He dashed that idea and today the region produces world-class wine and the winery that bears his name is acknowledged as one of the top 100 wineries in the world.

Meaghan has brought innovative ideas to the winery, but shared something very old. Rkatsitelli is one of the oldest grape varieties in the world, dating back to 3000 BC.

Dr. Frank’s has a wide-ranging lineup of wines, but the Rkat is special indeed. It has medium body weight and texture and a core of grapefruit flavor. Notes of citrus and flower blossoms intermingle with mineral undertones. What an amazing wine! It will pair perfectly with sushi, seafood, poultry and even barbeque.

We have only scratched the surface of this enticing locale. Each time we travel there we return with beautiful memories (and plenty of wine). For more information on the destination, check out the Corning and the Southern Finger Lakes website.

My colleague Stacey Wittig has recently shared her top picks for the best Finger Lakes wineries near Corning. Check them out!

Michigan Wines Continue To Surprise With Quality Offerings

Are you wine-curious? Check out the exciting wines coming from Michigan.

That wines from Michigan continue to land top awards is surprising to many. In a domestic wine scene dominated by the Big Three of California, Oregon and Washington, Michigan isn’t top of mind when fine wine is discussed. As the quality and recognition continues to ascend, that will change.

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We’ve been tasting and enjoying wines from Michigan for decades. We spent more than 20 years in the Toledo, Ohio, area and enjoyed short drives into Michigan to take in the scenery and visit wineries. That drive is a lot longer now that we’ve relocated to the Raleigh area. We were, however, able to savor the greatness of Michigan wine during a recent webinar hosted by the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association that featured the Michigan Wine Collaborative.

Yes, There Is Life Beyond California

Michigan is the fourth largest grape-growing state in the country and its wineries attract more than 800,000 visitors annually (in non-pandemic years, that is!). While you can find delicious fruit wines and great bottles using hybrid grapes, 70% of grapes grown are Vitus Vinifera, these are the noble, well-known international varieties.

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Top Michigan grapes are Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. How does a state with temperatures that can freeze your toes manage to grow grapes for fine wine? Most of the vineyards are within 25 miles of a Great Lake, most notably Lake Michigan. On a smaller scale, the lake provides to Michigan what the Pacific Ocean does for California. The large body of water moderates the temperature – keeping it warmer during the cold winter months. Michigan’s wine region is between the 42nd and 48th parallel, sharing the zone with other great wine regions around the world like Burgundy and Willamette Valley.

Riesling To The Rescue

Wow. All these facts and figures can make a person thirsty.

We sampled a Michigan red and white in order to see what the excitement is all about. The wineries covered the spectrum, from St. Julian Winery, the oldest in the state, to Rove Estate, a relatively new winery in the Traverse City area.

St. Julian has been run by the same family for four generations and has been producing wines for almost 100 years. Their line encompasses spirits, cider, and wine that ranges from budget-friendly quaffers to reserve wines to please the aficionado. We opened the 2019 Braganini Reserve Mountain Road Vineyard Riesling with a meal of grilled teriyaki shrimp.

I love bone-dry Riesling, but have come to appreciate off-dry Riesling since it allows a fuller spectrum of flavors. The St. Julian Riesling has notes of peach and green apple with a puff of sweetness. The sweetness is balanced by crisp acidity. This is a single-vineyard wine.

The ABV is 12%, nice and low, which means food-friendly. The residual sugar is 0.5% – just enough to provide a round, balanced flavor. St. Julian has wines that will delight any taste, but we’ve always focused on the Braganini Reserve range. We also hope to sample the BLK line at some point in the future.

Grace And Beauty From A Michigan Pinot Noir

I must admit I missed this trend completely. I never really thought of Michigan as a producer of top-notch Pinot Noir. The next bottle caused me to do some recalibration.

Rove Estate is located on Leelanau Peninsula, up in one of the most beautiful areas of Michigan Traverse City. You can combine hiking, off-road adventures, jet skiing, and a climb up Sleeping Bear Dune with a visit to the Rove tasting room.

Creighton and McKenzie Gallagher established Rove Estate to preserve their family’s farming legacy. The Gallagher farm has been part of Traverse City history for nearly 130 years. The highest point in Leelanau County at 1,165 feet, the site has slopes with southern exposure and perfect conditions for premium estate-grown grapes.

We opened the Rove 2018 Pinot Noir, Leelanau Peninsula, to go with some scrumptious pork chops that I grilled to perfection. The wine gets 18 months of aging in French oak, that lends complexity you might not expect. There are flavors of candied cherries, vanilla and herbal notes.

It simply is the best Michigan Pinot Noir we’ve tasted and surpasses the lower-tier California Pinot by a mile. We were delighted with this wine.

Don’t be fenced in. We encourage you to explore beyond your wine boundaries by opening a bottle of Michigan wine. If you can’t find any at your local wine shop, it is readily available online.

What’s In Your Glass? We Share Our Recent Wine Picks

WIYG? That’s a question we are often asked. Here’s a look at what we’re sipping.

Piccione 2014 Montepulciano, Swan Creek

This Montepulciano isn’t from the vineyards of Abruzzo, Italy, but from North Carolina. Piccione is a boutique winery that specializes in Italian grape varieties. During the COVID-19 lockdown, we participated in Open That Bottle of North Carolina Wine Night to salute the great wines from the Old North State and encourage you to “drink local.” This deeply colored wine has sturdy tannins and swirls of plum, black cherry and chocolate. An all-round winner at an SRP of $25.

Youngberg Hill 2015 Natasha Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Youngberg Hill’s Natasha vineyard block is named after the oldest daughter of the winemaker. We opened this during our last road trip before the pandemic hit – and had the chance to share it with our good friends the Cabernetor and Glorious T. This is Willamette Valley Pinot at its finest – luscious raspberry and black cherry combine with a riffle of spice in a savory and smooth wine. SRP of $50.

Mark Herold Wines 2008 Acha Red, California

This is a wine that I stumbled across in the cellar and said, “Hmm, didn’t realize I still had this!” I bought three bottles a number of years ago and drank one in 2014 and the last one six years later. What a difference a few years can make. This is a Tempranillo blend and back in 2014 the tannins were hard as nails and rugged. The last bottle had tannins that melted beautifully into an expressive wine rife with cherry, cedar and oak. It was luxurious on the palate and worth the wait. I paid $30 per bottle.

Boundary Breaks 2018 Riesling Dry #239, Finger Lakes

We picked this bottle up during our first visit to Boundary Breaks, a Finger Lakes winery winning national acclaim for its Riesling. The “239” refers to the clone number. This wine, uncorked during a virtual dinner party, has balanced fruit and acidity. There’s plenty of finesse with delightful lime notes and minerality. Residual sugar is just a whisper at 0.7%. SRP is $22.95.

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour 2016 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

Our friend the Cabernetor didn’t earn his nickname by chance. He loves his big, bold Napa Cabs.  This bottle was uncorked for his landmark birthday dinner. It’s an expressive and impressive wine. The fruit comes from the famed Rutherford AVA in Napa and the resulting wine is rich and full-bodied. It’s a juicy wine bursting with blueberries and blackberries with a thin edge of spice. Graceful vanilla and toast notes highlight the long finish. A true jewel from Napa Valley! SRP is $145.

Lakewood Vineyards: Finger Lakes Winery Visit

Lakewood Vineyards offers superb scenery and one of the widest array of wines in the Finger Lakes.

Time Well Traveled

Can it just be six months ago? It seems like a lifetime since we visited New York’s Finger Lakes with friends, laughing and enjoying the scenery as we shared stories and sipped wine.

A favorite stop on Seneca Lake is Lakewood Vineyards. It has an expansive tasting room and one of the widest selections of wines we’ve encountered. The winery, situated on the west shore of Seneca Lake, is located on the site of a former peach and apple orchard. In 1989, Lakewood Vineyards opened to the public.

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Known as the “vineyard of the roses” the grounds are beautiful, with roses and other blooms adding to the lush rows of vines. During our most recent visit, we had a first for us -- sipping wine at their outside tasting bar. The outdoor location gives a nice view of the lake and plenty of sunshine for enjoying the vines.

This was a special trip for us as we were joined by our good friends Cabernetor and Glorious T. Together we’ve sipped enough famed Finger Lakes wine to create a new lake!

Lineup From The Lake

We started our tasting (for a mere $4, refundable with purchase) with the 2018 Pinot Gris. This has light notes of honeysuckle and was sipping nicely as we surveyed our surroundings.

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The 3 Generations Riesling is the driest Riesling produced by Lakewood and is one of our favorites. At a mere 0.3% residual sugar it ably demonstrates why dry Riesling is the signature wine of the Finger Lakes. It is 11.65% ABV, and so it is a low-alcohol, food-friendly wine. The wine is grown, fermented and blended by three generations of the Stamp family. It has a zip of lemon zest and flavors of peach and pear. SRP is $20.

Labrusca grapes are not the favorite of Green Dragon and me, but Lakewood works some magic with these native grapes. The 2018 Long Stem White is a blend of Cayuga and Vidal Blanc (a French-American hybrid). This has high drinkability and you’re likely to drink more considering it is just $9 a bottle -- even less if you buy it by the case. That’s just what Glorious T did.

When we said Lakewood has a diverse selection of wines, we weren’t kidding. We sampled the Bubbly Candeo, which is a sparkling wine made with Cayuga grapes. Lakewood also offers the Blanc de Blancs, a 2017 traditional method sparkler made with Chardonnay. This is a beautiful wine at $30 SRP.

Cabernet Franc is the Finger Lakes’ best-known red. The 2017 Cab Franc is light red in the glass and bone-dry on the palate. It gets oak aging for added complexity. Emerging in popularity among area winemakers is Lemberger (also known as Blaufränkisch). The 2017 Lemberger is a dry, savory wine with rustic notes of blackberry and spice.

Spectacular surroundings, quality wines, and pleasant and knowledgeable staff make Lakewood a delightful visit. We hope you are able to visit them soon. In the meanwhile, you can order their wines online.

Domaine LeSeurre: Finger Lakes Winery Visit

French sensibility with Finger Lakes terroir equals a winning combination for Domain LeSeurre.

Rising Star on Keuka Lake

Our recent visit to the Finger Lakes included some old favorites as well as a mix of new. One winery that garnered our attention was Domaine LeSeurre. Sébastien and Céline Leseurre hail from France. Sébastien has rich experience in Champagne that spurred a passion for wine that took him around the world. Céline is from the Toulouse region and worked at a winery in the Languedoc-Roussillon region before she too started a globe-trotting wine career.

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Their paths initially crossed in New Zealand and their travels continued together in Australia before they landed stateside. They visited many different wine regions, but fell in love with the Keuka Lake and the Finger Lakes wine region. The first vintage for Domaine LeSeurre was in 2012 and their tasting room opened on the east side of Keuka Lake in 2013.

Artistic Approach To Wine

New World wines typically focus on bold flavors with plenty of winemaker intervention. In France and other Old World wine bastions the wines focus on reflecting the terroir of the vineyard area.

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While the Finger Lakes region is a laid back and beautiful area, it can be a challenge to carve out an existence in the wine business. Domaine LeSeurre approaches the Finger Lakes region in an Old World style, devoting time and attention to each wine.

This artistic approach has earned them accolades and the label of a winery to watch in the region. To enjoy the artistry, we sampled a horizontal tasting of LeSeurre Riesling and a selection of reds.

Rocking The Riesling

The various soils of the Finger Lakes allow Sébastien and Céline to paint like artists. Shale soil brings the depth of mineral flavors while the clay soil highlights the fruit flavors.

The 2016 Dry Riesling is sourced from three different vineyards and is aged in stainless steel for nine months. Battonage (stirring of the lees) adds complexity to the balanced mineral-driven wine.

For the 2016 Barrel Select Riesling, neutral French oak barrels are used for 11 months of aging. It’s a touch that adds elegance to this bottle, which retails for $26.99. The Barrel Select also undergoes battonage. There are citrus notes and a mellow acidity.

The pinnacle of LeSeurre Riesling is the 2017 Riesling Terroir D’Excellence. All the grapes for this wine come from a vineyard planted in 1971. The shale soil provides a nice mineral base for the lime and smoke flavor notes. It’s a complex swallow that will bring a smile to your face. SRP is $34.99.

Red Renaissance

Riesling has been the calling card of the Finger Lakes for decades. Steep, sloping vineyards and the moderating the temperature and reflecting sunshine work wonders for the white grape.

We’re fans of Finger Lakes reds too, particularly Cabernet Franc. In recent years Blaufränkisch (also known as Lemberger) has had great success.

Domaine LeSeurre has a full line of reds including Lemberger, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and a red blend. As climate change continues to cause upheaval in the wine world, the Finger Lakes may gain equal acclaim for its reds.

The husband and wife winemaking team aim to change the conversation about Finger Lakes reds with Domaine LeSeurre. An example is Pinot Noir, a finicky grape and famously difficult to grow. The wine is only produced in the best vintage years. So far only two years, 2012 and 2016, have made the grade. The 2016 Pinot Noir is light in body with traces of raspberry and a delightful earthiness.

Part of the rationale for setting up shop in the Finger Lakes is not only the terroir, but the rising tide of climate change. One of the reasons the Finger Lakes is known for whites rather than reds is the cold winters. As the climate warms, the Finger Lakes will become more hospitable for reds.

Two more Domaine LeSeurre reds of note are the 2015 Cabernet Franc Barrel No. 1 and the 2015 Réserve Spéciale Red Blend. The Barrel No. 1 Cab Franc comes from limestone soil and is aged for 22 months in new French oak with tight grain. The resulting wine offers delicious fruit with toasted highlights. Production is very limited – only 48 cases. The Réserve Spéciale is a blend of 52% Cabernet Franc, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Lemberger. It’s all that’s good about Finger Lakes reds rolled into one bottle.

Domaine LeSeurre is ideal for fans of hand-crafted artisan wines. Special touches like the battonage and neutral oak aging of their whites and extra barrel time for the reds make these wines distinctive. Say “oui” and pay them a visit on your next Finger Lakes wine excursion.

Technorati Tags: Finger Lakes,wine,Cabernet Franc,Riesling

White and Sparkling Wines To Highlight Your Holiday Feast

The month of December into January is a time for soirées and entertaining. Here are some stellar picks for your holiday party table.

Bring On The Bubbles!

Sparkling wine brings a luster to your holiday bash. Consider Left Coast Cellars 2013 Blanc de Noir, a traditional method sparkler. This wine is from Oregon’s newest wine region, the Van Duzer Corridor in Willamette Valley.

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Blanc de Noir indicates white wine made with red grapes. Willamette Valley is known for its Pinot Noir and those acclaimed grapes are used in this Blanc de Noir. We just loved the full flavors of apple and raspberry paired with outstanding perlage (bubbles!).

A mere 135 cases were produced. The SRP is $55. Left Coast Cellars also makes an array of Pinot Noirs that are ideal for entertaining.

Get Your Grenache Blanc Going

We have increasingly been popping the cork on Grenache and Garnacha, two different names for one great grape. It is one of the oldest and most widely planted grapes in the world.

In France’s Rhône Valley, Grenache is a primary grape, typically paired with Syrah. It is also part of the GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blends popular worldwide. Garnacha is grown in almost every area of Spain and graces the well-regarded wines of Priorat and Cariñena.

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While most Grenache is of the red variety, white Grenache/Garnacha is making a name for itself with high-quality wines. We popped open the Domaine Rombeau 2015 Andréa from France's Cotes du Roussillon region. It was a perfect match with our holiday turkey.

This is a unique white Grenache blend with 31% White Grenache, 29% Grey Grenache, 14% Marsanne, 13% Malvoisie, and 13% Vermentino. This had a full body and complex structure with grapefruit and peppery notes. It has a golden hue and is a limited production wine. Only 3,000 bottles were produced.

Riesling Rendezvous

With the varied meals that accompany your holiday festivities, remember one word: Riesling! We love Riesling for its food-friendly nature and the broad range of styles. You can opt for a bone-dry bottle or a range of choices up to a sweet late harvest wine.

Germany built its wine reputation on this grape and its a good choice when making your wine selection. For a recent vegan feast prepared by our daughter we opted for the 2018 Blue Fish Riesling from Pfalz.

Our meal included General Tso’s Cauliflower with rice and green onions along with a Napa cabbage salad and chile garlic edamame.

Riesling is a classic pairing with spicy foods. Blue Fish is a dry Riesling with a nice balance. It has flavors of lemons and peaches with a thread of minerality. At under $10, this is an outstanding buy!

Technorati Tags: sparkling wine,Grenache,Riesling,German wine,wine,wine tasting

Boundary Breaks Masters Finger Lakes Riesling

Boundary Breaks owner Bruce Murray

The best Riesling in the US? In our minds, it is unquestionably from the Finger Lakes. We visited Boundary Breaks to learn the secret of their Riesling success.

Sprouting Success

Boundary Breaks Wines co-owner Bruce Murray is frank when discussing the rapid ascendancy of his Finger Lakes winery. Boundary Breaks, founded with co-owner and wife Diana Lyttle, released its first vintage in 2013. In this short span of years, their Riesling has collected top scores from Wine Enthusiast, Robert Parker and glowing reviews from the Wall Street Journal.

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“This is a challenging climate,” said Murray during our recent visit to the Seneca Lake tasting room. “You win or lose in the vineyard.” He notes that the ideal site for his vineyard is the true key to success.

The vines are planted close to glacier-sculpted Seneca Lake. The location on the eastern side along with a favorable slope provides extra sunlight for slow ripening of the grapes. Riesling grapes that ripen too quickly are flabby, while the longer hangtime favors acidity – a key to developing balance and complexity.

Bruce and Diana have relied on business savvy in addition to a fortunate vineyard selection. Unlike many wineries, they started without a tasting room. Distributors were acquired and that allowed income to be stable. Boundary Breaks currently produces 10,000 cases and is distributed in around 25 states and a couple of foreign countries. “We’re not just relying on people walking through the door,” said Murray.

Those who do walk into the tasting room are impressed. In just three years, Boundary Breaks has grown its wine club to 1,300 members. While business strategy certainly has been key, Murray knows that good fortune is all about their high-quality Riesling grapes.

A Hyper-Focus

“In California, there is a lot more room for error, but not here,” explains Murray. “We focus exclusively on Riesling. It’s easier for us to figure out.”

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Murray considers Riesling the world’s finest white wine. He fell in love while having a Thai meal in a Las Vegas restaurant when he randomly picked a German Riesling off the wine list.

Boundary Breaks offers no less than six Riesling, including a sparkling Riesling and a Riesling ice wine. The Riesling that put them on the map, is the #239 Dry Riesling. Wine Enthusiast has twice named #239 (which refers to the clone number) to its list of the World’s Top 100 Wines. The 2018 vintage has the perfect balance of fruit and acidity. Lime notes mingle with a delightful minerality. It has a trace of residual sugar at 0.7% which adds to its freshness. SRP is $22.95.

Those preferring an even drier wine can opt for the #90 Extra Dry Riesling with a bright and clean flavor profile. I found the 2017 Ovid Line North Riesling to be outstanding. This is a medium-dry Riesling at about 2% residual sugar. Its balance is splendid and it will appeal to wine lovers of all kinds.

The Reserve Riesling has a slightly sweet finish with a low alcohol of 8%. A true delicacy is the 2018 Riesling Ice Wine, with grapes picked from the vine when temperatures fall below 15^oF. It tips the scales at 18.4% sugar and has a $69.95 SRP.

Finger Lakes Moving Forward

While Boundary Breaks is hyper-focused on the vineyard and the Riesling variety, they produce some pretty darn good reds too. Cabernet Franc has cold tolerance and is the best-performing Finger Lakes red.

After reviewing a Cornell University study on Cabernet Franc, Murray decided to change the vineyard procedures to maximize leaf exposure. Through cluster thinning the sun exposure is increased, which reduces pyrazines in the grapes. Pyrazines contribute to an unpleasant green pepper flavor. The 2017 Cabernet Franc vintage is the first for Boundary Breaks.

Currently, there are only two acres of Gamay in the Finger Lakes, but Murray sees this as a growth area and one he may explore. “You can sell all the Gamay you can make,” he said.

The region is changing. Unlike some proprietors who bemoan craft breweries and distilleries siphoning away tasting room customers, Murray sees it like a mall, where people go to a destination and may make several different stops.

“The Finger Lakes is going through a change,” said Murray. “The pioneer owners are reaching an age where they are selling or turning it over to a new generation. I think we are also learning what we are good at and what makes us successful.”

Boundary Breaks has a focus on quality winemaking and the results are delicious. Look for their Riesling in quality wine shops, or make a trek to the Finger Lakes.

Technorati Tags: finger Lakes wine,Riesling,winemaking,wine,Seneca Lake

Finger Lakes Winery Bellangelo Crafting Legacy Of Winemaking Excellence

Considered among the best Finger Lakes wineries, Bellangelo continues to innovate.

Riesling And Then Some

We’ve had a lot of Finger Lakes wine over the years. A lot.

Since first visiting the region more than a decade ago,we’ve visited more than 50 different wineries there and tasted wine from scores more. Finger Lakes wine country is changing. New wineries are popping up and the countryside is now dotted with numerous craft breweries and distilleries.

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When we first started frequenting this picturesque patch of upstate New York, Villa Bellangelo Winery wasn’t yet on our map. In 2015 we visited Bellangelo for the first time during the Wine Bloggers Conference. The stop was memorable for several reasons. First, my wife milked a goat (it was a promotion for a cheese company). While my wife might remember the goat, I remember the astounding Riesling.

Riesling is perhaps the most perfect expression of Finger Lakes winemaking. With crisp acidity and a lilting minerality, the Finger Lakes produces the best Riesling in the United States. And Bellangelo offers about a dozen different bottles.

Something Is Bubbling

It would be easy to focus strictly on the amazing Riesling at Bellangelo. During our recent visit, though, winemaker Chris Missick wanted to talk about their sparkling wine program.

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“I’m a fan of Limoux,” said Missick, referring to the French region known for sparkling wine with grassy and apple flavors. “It’s different. I prefer a more fruit-forward, hedonistic style – not as austere.”

Bellangelo’s sparkling wines have earned national recognition. Three different methods are used, the traditional method (as used for Champagne), the Charmat (or tank) method usually used for Prosecco and what Missick terms the “modern method.”

Instead of adding sugar, a standard part of the traditional method, the fermentation is stopped at the precise sugar level needed. It is sent through a crossflow filtering machine and then yeast is added to trigger the second fermentation which takes place in-bottle. This modern method, using only natural sugar, is producing beautiful wines and earning the praise of critics.

We tasted three sparklers including the yet-to-be-released 2018 Sparkling Gewürztraminer. Everything is better with bubbly, and its true with Gewürztraminer.  The regular varietal bottling can sometimes be sweet and overly floral. In its bubbly version it is enticing with lively acidity and some citrus and spice notes. The 2014 Blanc de Blanc is another winning sparkling effort, favoring flavor rather than the minimalistic notes of some traditional Champagne.

Rewarding Riesling

The energetic bubbles extend to the Finger Lakes signature grape as well. We sampled the Gibson Vineyard Sparkling Riesling, which popped with a fruity and fleshy flavor.

Bellangelo first caught my attention due to the variety and excellence of their Riesling. “If you are a painter, you want to make sure you have a palette with many colors,” said Missick. He combines different techniques to paint the exact wine picture he is seeking.

The 2018 Reserve Riesling is a limited production wine with only 40 cases. The fruit comes from the Gibson and Kashong Glen vineyards. The 2018 Kashong Glen Riesling was my favorite, a sculpted wine wrapped in lime and minerality. The 2018 Fût de Chêne gets an oak emphasis with 10 months in the barrel.

Bellangelo continues to innovate and the results are delicious. The winery became the first in the Finger Lakes to produce canned wine with its Can Do line. They also produce the only Chenin Blanc in the region.

“My vision is to first and foremost make wines that are authentic and delicious,” said Missick. “Authenticity is the only thing that really matters. The wines must speak of the site and region and my personality. Not that it is about me, but anyone who makes wine, you can taste their personality.”

We have tasted and it is authentically good. Bellangelo is a family-owned winery located on the west side of Seneca Lake. The location has a history of grape growing since 1866. Bellangelo features wonderful hospitality, exceptional views and knock-out wines. Be sure to make it a stop on your next Finger Lakes visit.

Technorati Tags: wine tasting,wine lover,Riesling,sparkling wine,Finger Lakes wine,wine

German Wines: An Iconic White Plus A Surprising Red

We’re about to burst the bubble of some German wine myths…

In The Land Of Whites And Reds

When you think of German wines, you probably think of whites. That’s understandable. Germany produces world-class Riesling and a variety of white wines including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and wines using native grapes.

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What you may not know is that about 34% of the country’s vineyard acreage is dedicated to red grapes. the leading red also might surprise you – it is Spätburgunder.

You might be more familiar with its better known name – Pinot Noir. Germany ranks third worldwide in area devoted to the grape, with almost 12% of its vineyards planted with Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir thrives in cool climates, which helps retain acidity and allows flavors to fully develop. Spätburgunder is also ideal for making  rosé.

A Surprise With White Wine Too

While you are fumbling with your corkscrew as you ponder the above facts about German Pinot Noir, consider this. Germany’s wine regions are also well suited for the production of crisp, high-quality sparkling wine. In Germany it is called Sekt and is usually done in a sweet or semi-sweet style. Surprisingly, Germans drink more sparkling wine than any other country.

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What’s no surprise is the amazing quality of German Riesling. It is fruit-forward, but balanced with acidity. Overall, German wines have been trending drier to match the modern international palate.

We tasted a German Pinot Noir and Riesling, the 2016 Neiss Riesling Trocken, Pfalz, and the 2014 Günther Steinmetz Kestener Paulinsberg Pinot Noir, Mosel. Each was outstanding.

Neiss is a fifth-generation family winery with plantings in the northern, cool-climate region of Pfalz, where  vines grow deep roots in mineral-rich soils, with large amounts of chalk. For us, minerality is the element that often makes the difference between an outstanding Riesling and a ho-hum affair. Platinum color in the glass, the Neiss Riesling has notes of peach and wet stone along with lime zest. This is a perfectly balanced glass that has the refreshing minerality we crave.

Complex, Rewarding Pinot Noir

I was surprised by the sophistication of the 2014 Steinmetz Pinot Noir. My previous tastes of Spätburgunder were young and fresh with vibrant flavors – wholly satisfying, but without the complexity that can make the Pinot Noir grape a star.

Steinmetz wines use wild fermentation and are grown organically.The Steinmetz is an elegant glass, its body and texture enhanced by the lack of filtering. It has dusky notes of flowers and spice. In short, this is a bottle that would capture the attention of any Pinot-phile. Its craftsmanship and complexity would not be out of place in cooler climate California AVAs.

Germany offers a range of styles that is surprising. In a good way. Prost!

Technorati Tags: wine,German wine,Riesling,Pinot Noir,wine tasting

Michigan Riesling Capturing International Attention

Winemaking has been around in Michigan since the 1600s. Today its Riesling is garnering worldwide acclaim.

Rooted In History

The first record of winemaking in Michigan was in 1679 when French explorers made wine from grapes found along the Detroit River. Two decades later settlers planted a vineyard at Fort Ponchartrain in Detroit.

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Michigan’s romance with Riesling didn’t start until 290 years later. Riesling was first officially planted at southwest Michigan’s Tabor Hill Winery in 1969. In the mid-1970s Riesling was planted at Chateau Grand Traverse in Old Mission Peninsula.

At the time, it was a risky venture as Michigan’s climate was considered too cold to successfully grow commercially viable grapes.

My how times have changed. In October, Black Star Farm’s 2017 Arcturos Dry Riesling was awarded the title of best Riesling in the world at the Canberra International Riesling Challenge. The Black Star Riesling topped 567 Riesling from six countries.

Right For Riesling

Having spent more than two decades in nearby northwest Ohio, the quality of Michigan wine was no surprise to us. Part of Michigan lies near the 45th parallel, just like premium French wine regions Burgundy, Alsace and Bordeaux. In addition, the moderating effect of Lake Michigan and waters around Grand Traverse Bay soften the chilly blasts of winter and translate to ideal conditions for growing Riesling.

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The state now has more than 3,000 acres of vineyards devoted to winemaking with 1.7 million visits to state wineries annually. Results of a recent economic impact study determined Michigan's wine industry to have a $5.4 billion economic impact, including $253 million in tourism spending in Michigan.

We explored the virtues of Michigan Riesling during an online tasting hosted by the Michigan Wine Collaborative. The MWC was formed to support the sustainability and profitability of the Michigan wine industry by supporting wineries, growers and other related businesses.

Swimming In The Harbor

Participants in the tasting had a option to order Riesling from five different wineries with a discount. Participating wineries included: Amoritas Vineyards, St. Julian Winery, Bowers Harbor Vineyards, Chateau Chantal and Fenn Valley Vineyards.

Having tried wine from several of the wineries – and it not being practical to order a bottle from each – I settled on Bowers Harbor. I’ve always wanted to try their wines and now was my chance.

Bowers Harbor Vineyards was founded in 1991 and is located in Old Mission Peninsula overlooking West Grand Traverse Bay. Originally a horse farm, the winery has 20 acres of vines and the tasting room occupies the former stable.

We selected the Bowers Harbor 2017 Block II Riesling, Old Mission Peninsula, for the tasting. To me, there is nothing better than an excellent Riesling – and nothing lamer than a poor one. Inexpensive Riesling from California barely qualifies to carry the name – it’s just too hot there to develop the acidity and nuanced flavors that make Riesling shine. I was delighted to find that the Bowers Harbor Block II was outstanding.

The Spicy Shrimp Test

As you might guess, for tastings like this I do the difficult tasks – like uncorking the bottle. My wife meanwhile had the easy job of whipping up an elaborate gourmet meal to accompany our Riesling. The meal was grilled spicy shrimp with butternut squash sprinkled with cinnamon. Also front and center was an avocado-yogurt dipping sauce.

Riesling pairs fantabulously with seafood. Ditto for spicy food. This is true for Riesling at most sweetness levels. The Block II is a dry Riesling that packs plenty of flavor.

I look for balance in Riesling. The acidity has to mesh with the fruit flavors. If either outweighs the other, the winemaker has missed her or his mark.

The Bowers Harbor Vineyards Block II, which retails for $32, is one of the best Rieslings we’ve had in recent times. The flavors are bright with lemon zest, a popping acidity and light minerality. It was spot on with the shrimp entree. The shrimp was marinated in a sauce that included chili powder, so the heat was cooled by our nicely chilled Block II.

You’re encouraged to check out the fine wines of Michigan and Bowers Harbor Vineyards.

Technorati Tags: Michigan,Michigan wine,Riesling,wine tasting,wine

Langmeil: A Barossa Valley Winery Visit

The Barossa Valley is the heart of the Australian wine industry. Throughout its history, it has excelled in the production of Shiraz. We had a chance to visit the home of the country’s oldest Shiraz vines – Langmeil Winery.

The Freedom Vineyard is believed to be the world's oldest Shiraz vines.

A Pioneer And Timeless Vineyard

When we arrived at Langmeil Winery in Australia’s famed Barossa Valley, we really stepped into history. In 1842, Prussian immigrant Christian Auricht established one of the Barossa’s first trading villages on the banks of the North Para River, naming it Langmeil. Auricht had migrated from Europe seeking religious freedom. A blacksmith by trade, he also planted a mixed-use farm. This historical site is home to Langmeil Winery today.

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The legacy of Auricht continues into today. The Freedom Vineyard, planted as part of the farm in 1843, is believed to be the oldest surviving Shiraz vineyard in the world.

The first winery was established in 1932, but the property went through a number of hands. The fortunes of wineries on the property had ups and downs, with the doors finally closing in 1993.

A Tradition Of Family Winemaking Continues

In 1996, three friends collaborated to purchase the derelict property and restored the old buildings and landscaped the grounds. The trio named the winery Langmeil, after the original 1842 village. In the renovation work, a gnarly patch of Shiraz vines from Auricht’s 1843 planting was discovered.

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Today the winery is operated by the Lindner family, which arrived in 1845 to settle in the Barossa Valley. Langmeil’s family winemaker is Paul Lindner. He is a veteran of more than 20 vintages. With parents Richard and Shirley and brother Paul, James Lindner is a family proprietor/director of Langmeil and also oversees sales and distribution both in Australia and around the world.

Three Gardens blends three Rhone varieties.

Historic Roots – Modern Excellence

We saw quite a few modern wineries during our visit to Australia, but the cellar door for Langmeil is quite a different story. The tasting room is located in the former stables. We found no horses, but did find some fantastic wine and a charming rustic decor.

The day was blistering hot and I had opted to take a shortcut through the vines. My wife meanwhile cruised to the tasting room in air conditioned luxury!

Dry Riesling from Eden Valley provided the first refreshing sip. The 2018 Wattle Brae Dry Riesling was crisp with good acidity and absolutely life saving from the record temperatures outside. We kept the cooling trend going with the 2017 Three Gardens blend of Viognier (59%), Marsanne (31%) and Roussanne (10%). I love these white Rhone grapes and this was satisfyingly rustic.

Bring on the refreshment with Bella Rouge!

The 2018 Bella Rouge Cabernet Sauvignon rosé is a fuller bodied blush with excellent strawberry notes. Australia does Riesling well –- and so does Langmeil. We capped our exploration of the whites with the 2018 Live Wire Off Dry Riesling.

Ratcheting Up To Reds

With my heat tremors finally over, it was time to flip the switch to red wines. We started by exploring the Village Red range, beginning with the 2016 Black Beauty Malbec. This was a pleasant surprise for me and a great value at $A30. The 2016 Della Mina is a blend of Sangiovese and Barbera. Barossa is known for is German roots, but the Lindner family has long ties to northern Italy and this bottle shines with cherry, spice and earth.

Mataro is another name for Mourvedre and the 2015 Mataro was next on our list. This one was a miss for me. I was ready to move on to the limited Old Vine Garden Range.

"Orphan" vines make great Langmeil Shiraz

Our first sip was spectacular. The 2016 The Fifth Wave Grenache comes from Old Vine Grenache grapes in Lyndoch. Langmeil may be the first winery to do a straight varietal bottling from this vineyard as opposed to using it as a blending grape. The vineyard shines in a light and elegant wine riffling with raspberry and a nip of spice.

The apex arrived with our next bottle, the 2016 Orphan Bank Shiraz. It is a full bodied beauty, made with 10 rows of pre-1860 Shiraz vines saved from the developer’s bulldozer. Plum and raspberry fill the palate. Smooth tannins help you enjoy the ride for the very long finish.

Langmeil is a highly recommended destination while in Barossa. The wineries commitment to preserving history, Old Vine vineyards and family winemaking translates to a fun, friendly experience filled with superb wine.

Technorati Tags: Barossa Valley,Australian wine,Shiraz

Pair Of German Wines Show Dry Defiance

Dry German wines are trending and changing perceptions.

Dry January? How About Dry Wine?

I’m note sure where the concept of Dry January came from, but as a wine writer you can imagine I’m not completely on board. I have in the past abstained from wine during Lent, but it was a challenging 40 days.

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A refreshing alternative comes from Germany. Instead of having a dry month, how about some very nice dry wine? That’s an idea we certainly can support. We tried a pair of dry German whites that we found to be outstanding.

The Red Hang

Riesling is one of our favorite grapes and we are partial to the drier style. We tried the 2014 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Trocken from Rheinhessen. Like many German wines, the long name can appear intimidating, but conveys some important information.

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The Rothenberg Vineyard in Nackenheim is on the Rhine River and is on the north end of what is known as the Red Hang. The vineyard is steep, with slopes ranging from 30% to 80% and the soil is made of 290-million-year-old red slate.Trocken indicates that the wine is dry.

The Grunderloch winery has 28 acres that are planted to Riesling, Silvander, Rulander and Gewurztraminer. They produce about 9,000 cases of wine annually.

Inspired is a good description of this wine. Although dry in style, the flavors are not muted. The unique soils lend a nice flowing minerality and a bright acidity creates a crisp finish. The swirling flavors include citrus and apples with a touch of herb. The wine is light gold with green reflections.
This Riesling is a Grosses Gewächs wine. All Grosses Gewächs comes from a Grosses Lage (‘great site’), the best vineyards according to the German VDP classification system. We’ve found “GG” wines to be outstanding.

Weissburgunder Anyone?

That Germany excels in white wine is not a recent discovery. What is relatively new is the increased production of Weissburgunder, known elsewhere as Pinot Blanc. The grape grows in fertile or chalky soil and ripens late. It is a Pinot mutation, sharing genetics with Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

In the 1970s, less than 1% of German vines were Weissburgunder. Today that figure is 5%, a noticeable increase. We sampled the 2015 Alexander Laible Weissburgunder from Baden. Baden is the southernmost of Germany’s wine regions.

This was a pleasurable wine to sip. The flavors are subtle peach and white flowers with a dash of herbs. The Laible Weissburgunder is perfect for any light chicken or seafood dish or, as we did, just enjoying in the evening. It is medium bodied and refreshing.

If you have to endure a “dry” month or winter, we suggest that you do it with some dry German white wine!

Technorati Tags: German wine,Weissburgunder,Pinot Blanc,Riesling,wine,wine tasting

Germany’s Cool Climate Wines A Delicious Choice For The Holidays

The holidays bring out a variety of festive foods. Germany’s white wines are delicious choices and versatile enough to pair with savory or sweet dishes.

German Riesling Versatility

For Thanksgiving we opened our doors to family and friends to share our holiday feast. In addition to the traditional turkey, we had a variety of sides including potatoes both mashed and sweet with cranberry sauce and gravy. Veggies ranged from brussel sprouts to green beans. Our table was overflowing and there are probably a few dishes I left off.

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What wine to pick? A great grape for this meal, and to keep in mind for Christmas and New Years festivities, is Riesling. Germany’s reputation for outstanding wine is built on producing world-class Riesling. It’s a smart choice for holiday entertaining.

By all rights, Germany shouldn’t be able to produce excellent wine. Germany is home to some of the world’s coldest climate vineyards and it is far away from a large body of water. It’s difficult for grapes to ripen in such conditions.

Through determination and wise vineyard selection, with southern-facing slopes and close to rivers, German winegrowers have experienced success. Riesling, a cold-hardy variety, is the most widely planted grape in the country.

Holiday Feasting

The 2015 Clemens Busch vom Grauen Schiefer Riesling Trocken is a dry wine that was a delightful pick for our main course. The grapes are grown on treacherously steep slopes of slippery slate that are snug up to the Mosel River. Mosel is the most northerly great wine region in the world.

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This is a fresh wine that is crisp without harsh acidity. There are notes of white flowers and citrus graced with a flowing minerality. A wonderful blending with the turkey!

In contrast, the 2015 Louis Guntrum Niersteiner Rehbach Riesling Spätlese from Rheinhessen is an amply sweet wine. How sweet? It was sweet enough that my sister-in-law snuck into the fridge and opened the wine a few hours before our meal.

The Guntrum Riesling is juicy with honey flavors and notes of tropical fruit. Spätlese means late harvest, and the grapes are more intense in flavor than the lower Kabinett level. The ripeness can also come with sweetness.

Residual sugar is listed at 4.5%, which isn’t too extreme. It is just the ticket for some people. (I’m talking to you, sister-in-law Sandra!). The sugar is balanced nicely with the acidity.

For our dessert, we had pumpkin and pecan pie. The dessert that paired best with the Spätlese was prepared a few days later by our daughter: Bartlett pears poached in lemon jasmine tea spiced with ginger. The sweetness of the dessert dials down the sweetness of the Riesling. The pears also had some nice savory notes courtesy of the tea and ginger, which had delicious interplay with the subtle notes of the Riesling.

Rheinhessen is the largest wine-growing region in Germany and on August 6, Rheinhessen saw the first grapes picked for the earliest harvest in Germany’s history. These grapes are used to make Federweißer (“new wine”). The partially fermented, traditional beverage is halfway between grape juice and wine. It’s offered all around Germany but not exported.

Germany Riesling runs the gamut from bone dry to sublimely sweet. It’s a perfect “pearing” for you holiday meals.

Full disclosure: This wine was received as a marketing sample.

Technorati Tags: Riesling,German wine,wine tasting