Showing posts with label Oregon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Oregon. Show all posts

Saturday, May 27, 2023

Nysa Wines Offer A Glimpse of Willamette Valley Greatness

Dundee Hills is the epicenter of Oregon Pinot Noir. Now we know why.

In Greek mythology, Nysa is a secret land full of lush fruit trees and vineyards where young Dionysus, the god of wine was raised. The forces emanating from Mount Nysa are said to be powerful. We found ourselves falling under the spell of three new wines from Nysa – actually from Nysa Vineyard, the Willamette Valley winery in the Dundee Hills.

The family-owned operation was begun in 1990 when owner and winemaker, Michael Mega purchased a parcel of orchards high with the goal of creating a world-class Pinot Noir. The goal creating wines of complexity, concentration, and balance while using minimalistic winemaking techniques and organic farming.

The grapes are grown at 600 to 720 feet elevation. Nysa case production is under 1,000, but that may soon change as wines will soon be available outside Oregon in shops across the US in such wine-loving states as California, Texas, New York, North and South Carolina, and Illinois.

We had the opportunity to taste the 2019 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the 2016 Pinot Noir, all from Dundee Hills. Dundee Hills is where Oregon Pinot Noir first gained its worldwide reputation.  Early pioneers such as David Lett of Eyrie, Dick Erath, and the Sokol Blossers planted many of Oregon’s first vineyards.

To taste the Chardonnay and 2016 Pinot, we planned a special dinner, an amazing meal with Duck Breast l'Orange entrée. Duck is a perfect pairing with Pinot Noir, whose fruity notes play perfectly with the rich dark meat. I wasn't sure about Chardonnay.

The Chardonnay uses grapes from the Nysa estate block of Wente clone vines. This wine went through malolactic fermentation and then spent 10 months in neutral French oak barrels. We discovered that this Willamette Valley Chard with beautiful tropical fruit notes and a taste of honey worked wonderfully with the duck, asparagus, and mushroom risotto.   


The 2016 Nysa is an amazing Pinot. It is a blend of different vineyard blocks throughout the estate. The grapes were fermented in small lot bins before aging in French oak (25% new). Light garnet in the glass with the perfect touch of acidity, delicate layers of red fruit, dry herbs, leather, and nuanced earth tones show through. This was an ideal pairing and just an exceptional wine. 

We got a look at the younger 2019  Nysa Pinot. On the palate, there are beautiful smooth red cherries a touch of baking spices, and a touch of minerality. Tasty now, we expect this vintage to rock after another two or three years of aging.

Nysa Pinot Noir ranges from $75 to $105, and Chardonnay starts at $65, all depending on the vintage.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Friday, April 21, 2023

Wines For Animal Lovers: Sipping These Great Values Benefits Four-Legged Friends


We love California Cab and Oregon Pinot Noir, especially when they support charities that help animals.

Time was when an upstart wine from Australia planted a picture of a kangaroo on its label and conquered the American wine market. After the success of Yellowtail, many animal labels emerged: birds, bears, cows, mice, and pigs. Animals can make an attractive label, but it is what is inside that is the primary attraction for me.

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We recently popped open two wines with an animal theme but with a difference. The labels aren’t simply to draw in the curious, but to celebrate their commitment to helping four-legged friends.

Firesteed 2021 Pinot Noir, Oregon

Firesteed winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley produces an array of Pinot Noir and other wines like Pinot Gris and Riesling. It also has some AVA-specific Pinot Noirs, that highlight select vineyards in Willamette. They also offer a wallet-friendly Oregon Pinot Noir from several sites around the state.

We opened this 2021 Pinot Noir and immediately found a satisfying wine that delivered a great Oregon Pinot experience. The price is a mere $17 and for that, it was surprising to taste cherry notes with a healthy earthiness. Toast and spice round out a silky palate.

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Not only does Firesteed deliver a great QPR (quality price ratio), but a portion of each sale benefits our animal friends. The winery has partnered with Dreamer Horses Colorado,which provides boarding for retired horses on a 100-acre pasture on a family cattle ranch. Firesteed also contributes to the support of retired horses as they live out their best lives surrounded by fresh grass, sunshine, and equine friends.

Bar Dog 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, California


Bar Dog’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the statewide California AVA is a smooth drinking Cab we paired with grilled blue cheese burgers and sweet potato fries. The inspiration for the wine’s name comes from wine creator Terry Wheatley who has a Boston Terrier on her Central California ranch. The dog is a constant companion, like my dog Amber who is laying patiently a few feet away from me while I write this post.

The wine is a delicious everyday drinker. There are no complex layers but at a price point of about $12, it is what you expect it to be: a loyal, friendly, and tasty friend. The expressive flavors of black cherry, cocoa, and vanilla provide plenty of satisfaction right now. There are no heavy tannins and no need to age this wine, which we would suggest should be consumed within three years.

The Bar Dog certainly elevated our burgers-on-the-patio dinner. The winery also takes its commitment to animals beyond the bottle label. For the love of dogs and all they bring to our lives, Bar Dog wines has committed to supporting rescue shelters across North America in partnership with the Petfinder Foundation. The Petfinder Foundation awards grants funded by Bar Dog wines to shelters, helping them provide pet food, supplies, and veterinary treatment for dogs awaiting adoption.

Full Disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Wednesday, June 29, 2022

Iris Vineyards 2020 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

A good value Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is always a reason to celebrate. During a recent webinar with the International Food, Wine, and Travel Writers Association, we explored the 2020 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Iris Vineyard. It has a $24 SRP and over-delivers with soft fruit notes balanced nicely with an underlying earthiness. Winemaker Aaron Lieberman explained that 2020 was a tricky vintage, which was marked by wildfires. This caused some adjustments to the picking and fermentation decisions, including extra time in oak barrels.

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Iris is a family-owned estate winery in the foothills of the Oregon Coast Mountain Range, in southern Willamette Valley. The tasting room is 30 minutes southwest of Eugene, Oregon. It is located on the 870-acre estate, with almost 50 acres of vineyard framed by restored woodlands.

This wine uses grapes from five different vineyards that span the Chehalem Mountain, Eola Hills, McMinnville and Yamhill-Carlton AVAs in Willamette. Despite a challenging harvest, we’re happy to say the end result is a highly enjoyable wine that can pair with everything from a nice stew to a charcuterie board.

Wednesday, June 22, 2022

Willamette Whites Gaining Critical Acclaim


By Dave Nershi, CSW – Vino-Sphere Publisher

With more than 700 wineries and picturesque scenery, there’s a lot to love in Willamette Valley. It is Oregon’s leading wine region, and two-thirds of the state’s wineries and vineyards are located there. Then, of course, there is the Pinot Noir, recognized as some of the best in the world.

If you assume that Willamette Valley is strictly Pinot Noir, you’re in for a delicious surprise. In fact, 30% of Willamette Valley’s grapes are those other than Pinot Noir. The quality of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and lesser-known white grapes is capturing the attention of wine critics with their balance, elegance, and higher acidity. We tasted six Willamette whites from premier wineries. To round out the picture, we contacted three Willamette Valley winemakers to get their perspectives on the rise of white wines in the region.

Iris Vineyards is a family-owned estate winery in the foothills of the Oregon Coast Mountain Range, in southern Willamette Valley. It's located on an 870-acre estate, with almost 50 acres of vineyard framed by restored woodlands. Winemaker Aaron Lieberman’s philosophy is to create bright, fruit-forward, wines that honor their source with crisp acidity and low alcohol. Aaron is approaching his 13th vintage as winemaker for Iris Vineyards.

“There are white wines produced in other parts of the world that are very similar to Willamette Valley wines,” said Lieberman. “For some white wines produced here, the combination of the climate and soils derived from volcanic parent material does make these wines unique.

“My focus for the Willamette Valley Pinot Gris is to respect the varietal (varietal character) and end up with a balanced, easy-to-drink wine. Cultural practices in the vineyard, picking decisions, and grape handling in the winery all contribute to this,” said Aaron. “All of the above applies to the Blanc de Noirs and Sweet Amalia. An additional focus for the Blanc de Noirs is the persistence and quality of mousse (foam). Additionally, for Sweet Amalia, we strive to create a product that appeals to tasting room visitors and club members who demand a sweet wine. At the same time, I want this wine to have a complex flavor profile and to improve with age.”

Youngberg Hill is a 50-acre estate with 20 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards in Willamette Valley. Proprietor/winegrower Wayne Bailey and his family are the modern-day stewards of a property that has been a family farm since the 1850s. The first vines were planted on the McMinnville property in 1989. The estate is among the Willamette Valley’s westernmost vineyards and experiences significant maritime influence.

“Our white program includes Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and sparkling wine,” said Bailey. “However, our focus is on Chardonnay. I believe, like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay is best grown in cooler climates and reflects where and when it's grown. My goal is for the Willamette Valley to be known just as much for its Chardonnay as for its Pinot Noir. And when that happens, you will finally see Willamette Valley Chardonnays on retail shelves and restaurants across the country.”

Dave Specter is the owner and winemaker at Bells Up Winery, a micro-boutique winery he operates with his wife Sara. Dave is a former corporate tax attorney who won two national amateur winemaking competitions, encouraging the couple to purchase a former Christmas tree farm north of Newberg, Oregon, to establish their vineyard. Today the winery produces about 600 cases annually.

“Regionally—and broadly speaking—there is a tendency toward producing crisper, balanced white wines that showcase the minerality of the area’s soils,” said Specter. “You don’t see many oaked whites made here compared to other winemaking regions, which makes them distinctive.

“For whites, I’m trying to achieve approachability and elegance through balanced acidity with a creamy texture that comes from a few months spent stirring the wine on its lees. That gives them a fuller-bodied presence, allowing our white wines to be enjoyed solo or accompanied by a meal. We’ve seen great pairings with oysters or creamy Mediterranean lamb stew for the Rhapsody Pinot Blanc, and fish tacos or asparagus with lemon for the Helios Seyval Blanc, which is the only planting of that varietal in the Willamette Valley (thereby making it a very unique white here).”

While the Willamette Valley's reputation for white wine previously has been built on Pinot Gris, the cool climate and unique soils that bring forth standout Pinot Noir are also ideal for another Burgundian grape: Chardonnay. We were also impressed with the range of whites reviewed, from Pinot Blanc to a sparkling Blanc de Noir, and a Seyval Blanc, as well as Pinot Gris, delivered in a dry as well as sweet style.

Areté 2019 Brut Blanc de Noirs

Areté is the premium range of wines from Iris. This wine is 100% Pinot Noir but delivered in a “blanc” style. We began our tasting event with this wine and the foamy perlage delighted the crowd. Wonderful crisp grapefruit notes mingled with lemon and peach. Small, refined bubbles. SRP $33.99

Bells Up Rhapsody 2021 Pinot Blanc

This wine immediately gained fan-favorite status with our group. I was expecting a more austere wine, but the Rhapsody (named for Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue) delivered nectarine and lemon zest flavors in a jazzy way. The wine gets six months of sur lie aging for a fuller body without dampening the crispness. $32.

Bells Up Helios 2021 Seyval Blanc, Chehalem Mountains

Bells Up has the first and only Seyval Blanc planting in Willamette Valley (second in Oregon). The variety is found mostly in the Midwest and East. Tropical fruit and green apples surround a swirling minerality. There is a unique flinty twang on the finish. Very limited availability of 64 cases. $40.

Youngberg Hill 2021 Aspen Pinot Gris

Named after the youngest daughter of the winemaker, this Pinot Gris has a pleasing fruitiness perfect to pair with spicy food. Juicy apricots and floral notes mingle with tropical fruit flavors and mineral tones. This is classic Willamette Valley Pinot Gris! $35

Iris 2020 Pinot Gris

Bright citrus flavors wrapped in juicy pear. Whole-cluster pressed for additional depth of flavor. This is an easy-to-love wine with a refreshing juiciness. The acidity adds to the structure and balance. $15.99.

Iris 2019 Sweet Amelia Pinot Gris

This was one of the big surprises of our tasting. I’ve never heard of a dessert wine Pinot Gris, let alone tasted one. We had two guests who refused to leave without taking what was left in the bottle. This is a delicate wine, not viscous or sticky. There are touches of honey and orange marmalade. Even with the sweetness, it maintains balance and a crisp finish. $18.99.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Sunday, March 13, 2022

Tualatin Valley A Captivating Destination In Oregon Wine Country

David Hill Vineyard: Washington County Visitors Association, photo by Paul Loofburrow


Sake, crystals, wine, and amphorae – all in Tualatin Valley…

Tualatin Valley Wineries And More

The world of wine is full of valleys: Napa Valley, Rhone Valley, and Barossa Valley. If you love wine, or if you just love to travel to interesting places, add another valley to your list: Oregon’s Tualatin Valley.

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Tualatin Valley is just minutes southwest of Portland. It’s located in the northwest corner of the famed Willamette Valley. Just east of the Northern Oregon Coast Range, the valley is formed by the Tualatin River.


I’ve visited Tualatin Valley twice, although at the time I didn’t know this area had an identity distinct from the larger Willamette Valley.

Tualatin is home to the amazing Alloro Vineyard. Allora is a Tuscan-inspired winery and I tasted their terroir-driven wines that showcase the purity of fruit during my first visit. During my last trip I toured Beckham Estate Vineyard where potter and winemaker Andrew Beckham creates his own handcrafted, terra cotta amphorae wine vessels. Beckham Estate is likely the only winery in the world where the production of the terra cotta vessels for fermenting and aging is on-site and is integrated with the farming and production of the wines.

All told, Tualatin has a total of 33 estate wineries and nine tasting rooms. If you visit Tualatin Valley, you may be drinking wine in four different AVAs. Willamette Valley is a large AVA with more than 5,300 square acres. A portion of the  Chehalem Mountains AVA is in Tualatin Valley as are two of the newest Oregon AVAs. The Laurelwood District and Tualatin River AVAs were both established in 2020.

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To become an AVA, a region must prove it has unique qualities, like a geographic feature or climate that distinguishes it from its surroundings and affects how grapes are grown. The Laurelwood District is located on the northern slopes of the Chehalem Mountains and has Laurelwood soils and iron-rich loess from the Missoula Flood that occurred during the Ice Age. The Tualatin River AVA aligns with the Tualatin River watershed and also features Laurelwood soils, but a much warmer climate than the Laurelwood District.

Proprietor David Nemarnik in the Alloro cellar

You can be forgiven if you think Oregon is all about the Pinot Noir. Sure, there is plenty of premium Pinot Noir in Tualatin Valley, but it also features dozens of unique varieties. On the red side, you’ll also find Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Tempranillo, and Sangiovese. Pinot Gris is the biggest white grape in Oregon, but in Tualatin, you’ll also find Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Arneis, Gewürztraminer, and Grüner Veltliner. Riesling is also popular.  and Apolloni Vineyards even makes Pinot Grigio – the same grape as Pinot Gris, but with a decidedly different style.   

Diversity Beyond The Landscape

The diversity is not confined to the vineyard. Washington County (which encompasses Tualatin Valley) is the most culturally diverse county in the state of Oregon. Japanese influences can be found in abundance at culinary destinations throughout the region. Fun and tasty Japanese creations await at Beaverton’s Oyatsupan Bakers, while the city sees the emergence of chain ramen shops from Japan. Uwajimaya, an Asian grocery, sells foods and other wares from Japan. In the city of Forest Grove, many Japanese traditions of crafting premium sake can be tasted at SakeOne, the first American-owned-and-operated sake brewery.

Tasting at SakeOne. Photo by Jim Shea.

Lovers of natural and biodynamic wines will also enjoy the Tualatin Valley scene.   
In 1999, Cooper Mountain Vineyards was the first vineyard/winery to be Demeter-certified biodynamic in the Pacific Northwest. Montinore Estate uses the property’s meadow, lake, cover crops, and “unusual” farming techniques are a part of its biodynamic farming process. Their interesting L’Orange is made from white wine grapes that get extended skin contact, and are blended with clay amphora-fermented Gewürztraminer to add complexity.

Of course, there is more to Tualatin than beverages. Outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy the 50-mile paved Tualatin Valley Scenic Bikeway or try ziplining or a birding and wildlife-watching walk.

Rice Northwest Museum of Rocks and Minerals is one of the world’s finest collections of crystals from worldwide localities. In addition, you will see spectacular fossils, meteorites, petrified woods, oddities, fluorescents, lapidary arts, and the best from the Northwest.

Whether you are thirsting for wine or a scenic outdoor adventure, Tualatin has something for everyone. For more information, check out the Tualatin Valley website.

Monday, November 29, 2021

Utopia Vineyards Crafting Heavenly Pinot in Oregon’s Ribbon Ridge AVA

Ribbon Ridge is the smallest Oregon wine-growing region, but its reputation for great Pinot is boundless.


Horse Pasture To Pinot Paradise

“Utopia means trying to achieve perfection,” says winery founder, owner, and winemaker Dan Warnshuis. “What else would you aim for?” That’s what Warnshuis has been doing since Utopia Vineyard and Winery’s first commercial vintage in 2006. It is a family-owned producer of small-lot, premium wines specializing in world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The estate is located in what many wine lovers certainly consider utopia – the Ribbon Ridge AVA in Northern Willamette Valley, Oregon, known for its high-quality wines. Ribbon Ridge is a six-mile ridge in the Chehalem Mountains region, located about 20 miles southwest of Portland and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean.

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Warnshuis’ route to winery ownership is a circuitous one. After growing up in California’s San Joaquin Valley, he attended Michigan State on a full scholarship for swimming. After graduating he relocated to Silicon Valley to begin a successful career in the technology sector. It was living in wine country that changed the trajectory of his life. He began as a collector, amassing thousands of bottles. Deciding to look at wine from a business perspective, he dreamed of creating his own wine label.

What was a horse pasture became Utopia Vineyard in 2002. “I knocked on the owner’s door and he sold it to me,” said Warnshuis. “It wasn’t on the market at all…[but] this place checked all my boxes.” After the soil tests confirmed the plot’s potential and the serendipitous sale went through, Utopia Estate Vineyard was born.

The soil is indeed special. The 18.9 acres of southeast-facing slopes have marine sedimentary soil. The region was a seacoast some 50 million years ago and, as Warnshuis puts it, it’s like a strip of coastline got left behind. The finely textured soil provides excellent drainage and conditions, including ample moisture from the Pacific Ocean, and results in grapes with exceptional complexity. As the vines struggle to get nutrients, they gain concentrated flavors and spice and floral accents.

Diversity Works In The Vineyard Too

Clonal diversity is another key to the wine that is capturing awards and the hearts of Pinot Noir aficionados. After three major plantings in 2002, 2005, and 2010, the vineyard today is comprised of 12 different Pinot Noir clones and three low-yielding Dijon Chardonnay clones. In addition to Dijon 115, 667, and 777, Pommard, Wadensville, and Swan Pinot Noir clones, five different Heirloom clones are part of the plantings.

Warnshuis personally oversees the management of the vineyard, the harvesting, and the winemaking process. Utopia is 100% dry-farmed and the fruit is always painstakingly harvested by hand using only small snip tools to pick one bunch at a time. The notoriously finicky Pinot Noir grapes arrive at the winery in less than an hour and are placed in temperature-controlled storage until ready for processing.

Utopia is known for high-quality wines and a large percentage of its output is sold to restaurants. The annual production is 2,500 to 3,000 cases, all done onsite. The winery makes a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Rosé, and a Pinot Noir Blanc each year, but is best known for its four estate Pinot Noirs, each created with a distinct blend of vineyard clones.

Estate Pinot Noir Excellence

The Estate Pinot Noir ($48) is a blend of 12 different clones, something that sets it apart from most other Pinot Noirs. In many Oregon vineyards, two to three Pinot Noir clones are the norm. To sip it is to experience the breadth of the vineyard in its bright cherry and berry flavors, perfumed bouquet, and outstanding balance.

Paradise ($65) is a reserve estate Pinot made from the best barrels from the three best blocks in the vineyard. Grapes are whole-cluster pressed, adding texture and character to the wine. This has a dark cherry profile with plum and savory notes and a dash of vanilla. The current vintage is 2018, but we sipped the 2016 at the winery tasting room and it was divine. Wines are available at the tasting room or online and past vintages are available, including the 2016 (for $75).

The Clone 777 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ($65) is a single clonal bottling of the Dijon 777 clone, one of the most important clones in the Utopia vineyard. It is savory with spice and floral notes and its structure lends itself to extended aging.

Visitors to Utopia (or online purchasers) get to experience Eden firsthand. Eden Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ($100) is the pinnacle of Utopia winemaking, crafted from the 100% Pommard clone, the building block for many of Burgundy’s Grande Cru Classe wines. This is a bold power Pinot that is 100% Pommard, 100% whole cluster, and 100% new Burgundian oak. We tasted the 2015, a complex wine with layers that open up as you savor it: black cherry, oak, vanilla, and spice float over notes of leather.


The Utopia tasting room is located 30 minutes outside Portland and has a daily tasting flight hosted by Warnshuis. It offers a sweeping view of the vineyard as well as outdoor games like bocce. There are comfortable Adirondack chairs crafted out of wine barrels if you choose to simply soak in the surroundings and enjoy your wine.

Wednesday, November 17, 2021

Oregon’s Umpqua Valley Wineries Deliver Boutique Excellence

The second of our two-part look at Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, a region ripe with innovation and diverse grape varieties.

Our trip to Umpqua Valley during the Wine Media Conference was a true eye-opener. The WMC, held in Eugene, Oregon, featured an excursion hosted by the Umpqua Valley Winegrowers, and we gleefully hopped on board.

See Part 1 of our Umpqua Valley feature here.

What surprised us was the diversity packed into this relatively small AVA, sized 65 miles north to south and 25 east to west. The microclimates varied drastically as we traveled from cool maritime regions to warmer inland areas.

It is said that this region, which boasts 23 wineries (mostly family-owned and operated), should rightly be called the Hundred Valleys of the Umpqua due to its unique topography. We loved this unique aspect of the region and the bountiful boutique wine.

Here we continue our look at Umpqua wineries:

Cooper Ridge Vineyard – 1389 Old Garden Valley Road, Roseburg

Cooper Ridge would make our list of top wineries on its smashing location alone. Perched on top of Dynamite Ridge, the tasting room has a sweeping view of the 25-acre estate and scenic mountains. The winery makes limited-production premium Oregon wines from estate-grown Merlot, Viognier, Syrah, Tempranillo, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Noir.

Favorites here included the vibrant 2020 Vineyard Cuvee, a fresh blend of Viognier, Grüner and Riesling. In red wines, we loved the 2016 Tempranillo, which had lovely savory notes with dried fig and mocha. The cooling breeze in the valley allows the production of robust reds, like the 2016 Syrah, that just aren’t possible in northern Oregon.


Spangler Vineyards – 491 Winery Lane, Roseburg

Visiting Spangler Vineyards is akin to taking a masterclass in premium red wines. Winemaker and owner Bob Spangler has been making wine for 32 years with a focus on big, bold reds. After becoming enchanted with Pacific Northwest wine, he purchased what is now Spangler Vineyards in 2004. The rest, as they say, is history.

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He makes wine from all six major Bordeaux varieties and also includes Italian and Rhone varieties in his range. He produces a blockbuster 2017 Claret with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. This is a balanced wine with rich cherry, herb, and spice notes. Another standout is the 2016 Khayan’s Block Dolcetto, which enchants with blackberry, pepper and violet flavors.

Abacela – 12500 Lookingglass Road, Roseburg


Abacela is a pioneering winery that produces world-class wine. The conditions were perfect for our visit as we enjoyed a charcuterie plate and sipped in the superb wines and panoramic scenery. Owners Earl and Hilda Jones launched a quest to see if the Spanish grape Tempranillo could be grown in the US. In 1995 Abacela became the first commercial Tempranillo vineyard in the Pacific Northwest. The winery’s name derives from the Spanish verb “bachelor,” which means to plant a grapevine. In 1998, the Tempranillo won double gold in an international competition against all Spanish Tempranillos.

The winery has 30 different combinations of soil types and elevation changes across its 76 acres of vines. Another Spanish grape, Albariño is also grown. The crisp and light wine rivals that of Spain’s finest region: Rías Baixas. We sampled two Tempranillo: the 2018 Fiesta and the 2017 Reserve Tempranillo. The Fiesta is a lighter, fruit-driven wine. The Reserve is from the oldest block of Tempranillo and, on the Spanish scale, would fit between a Reserva and a Gran Reserva. It is a spectacular wine. If you are looking for a unique grape, try the Tinta Amarela which features flavors of blueberry, vanilla, and dried raspberries.


Delfino Vineyards - 3829 Colonial Road, Roseburg

Delfino is a 160-acre boutique winery growing Tempranillo, Syrah, Zinfandel, Cabernet, Dolcetto, Merlot and Müller-Thurgau grapes. Owners Jim and Terri Delfino also have 10 cows and 22 chickens. Jim was asked if he was going to farm or have a winery to which Jim responded, “Why can’t we do both?”

I was very pleased to see Müller-Thurgau on the wine list. Leading with peach and citrus flavors it has a crisp finish and is a delightful change of pace from Riesling. We tasted the 2017 vintages of Dolcetto, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah – the latter hitting it out of the park with blueberry and plum notes and integrated tannins.

Melrose Vineyards - 885 Melqua Road, Roseburg

Melrose is a landmark winery in Southern Oregon. Located on the bench of the South Umpqua River, it is on the site of an early French settlement and since the 1880s a variety of crops have been grown there. Today, luckily for us, the crops are a dozen grape varieties used for premium wine.

The tasting room is located in a 100-year-old barn rebuilt to maintain its structural integrity and with breathtaking views. Our roasted vegetable lasagna meal showed that Melrose is an unforgettable location for food and wine experiences. We found some great surprises in the wine with Pinotage, Baco Noir, and the 2016 Parker’s Pinot – perhaps the best Pinot we enjoyed on the trip.

HillCrest Vineyard – 24 Vineyard Lane, Roseburg

With all the attention focused on Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, it’s tempting to overlook the unique premium wines of Umpqua Valley to the south. That would be a mistake since Oregon Pinot Noir originated here – at HillCrest Vineyard to be more specific. Founder Richard Sommer is credited with planting the first Pinot Noir in the state in 1961 and is also home to the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines (1964). HillCrest is the first post-Prohibition winery in Oregon.

With current owner Dyson Demara, the heritage of the winery is in good hands. He focuses on “slow wine” with dry-farmed vines, low yields and traditional techniques. “If it wasn’t used 100 years ago, I don’t use it,” said DeMara. The wines are simply superb with the 2007 Pinot Noir having bright cherry notes with light body and subtle oak. The 2016 Old Stones Teraldago is a rare grape with intense blackberry and plum flavors.

Paul O’Brien Winery - 609 SE Pine St., Roseburg

The first thing to know is that there is no Paul O’Brien. The winery is a collaboration between Scott O’Brien Kelley and Dyson Paul DeMara, winemakers and good friends. Together they launched Umpqua Valley’s first urban winery in a historic Chevy dealership building.

The wines represent Old World traditions and New World techniques. We love Sauvignon Blanc, especially when it is offered as Fume Blanc. The 2020 vintage is smoky with tropical fruit notes and a crisp finish. We tasted the 2020 Pinot Noir as a barrel sample. It has a long way to go, but the prospects are intriguing. The 2016 Tempranillo is rich and oaky thanks to two years of French oak aging. The flagship wine is the 2014 La Dame, a Merlot-focused blend with Cab Franc and Malbec. It is a wine fit for royalty.

More Umpqua Wineries To Savor

There is so much to see and experience in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley wine county. Be sure to check out these wineries we also tasted/visited during our trip along with two “can’t miss” Umpqua restaurants.

Knostman Family Winery – Enjoy small lot wines along the scenic North Umpqua River.

Lexème Wines – Exceptional wines with a European flair. Tasting room in Elkton.

Trella Vineyards – Vines from the base of the Callahan Mountains produce an array of wines including Grüner Veltliner, Baco Noir and Sangiovese. Tasting room in Roseburg.

Triple Oak Vineyard – Micro-producer of fine wines located in the historic community of Oakland.

The Parrot House – World-class cuisine served in a historic home and restaurant in Roseburg.  Established in 1891. Features Reform Bourbon Bar.

Catch 22 Fish and Chips - Specializing in British style "Fish n' Chips" with a focus on fresh, local fish and sustainable seafood with a Pacific Northwest styling.

Friday, October 22, 2021

Umpqua Valley A Surprising Find In Oregon Wine Country

The first of our two-part look at Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, a region ripe with innovation and diverse grape varieties.


Oregon wine continues to grow in popularity and reputation. The state has 21 AVAs and contributes more than $7 billion annually to the Oregon economy. Much of the buzz focuses on Willamette Valley and its Pinot Noir, but further south in Umpqua Valley, there is a world of quality wine unknown to most wine lovers.

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The Umpqua Valley sits between the Cascades to the east and the Coastal Range to the west. It stretches 65 miles from north to south and is 25 miles wide and is nestled between Willamette Valley to the north and Rogue Valley to the South.

Its wine history dates back to the 1880s, when German immigrants established the first vineyard and winery, producing an estimated 22,000 gallons of wine. The region has quite a few firsts. Between 1959 and 1961, Richard Sommer, a winemaking pioneer in the Umpqua Valley planted 36 acres of vinifera grapes, including Oregon’s first Pinot Noir, despite warnings from his U.C. Davis educators that grapes will not grow in Oregon.

The Umpqua Valley AVA was founded in 1984 and innovation continued. In 1984, Abacela Winery planted the first Tempranillo in the Northwest. In 2001 the winery planted the first Albariño vines in the Northwest. In 2003-2005, Steve Reustle of Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards planted and produced the first commercial Grüner Veltliner.

The region historically was home to vineyard plots of five to 30 acres. Today larger vineyards from 100 to 200 acres are planted. The number of grape varieties has expanded to include Syrah, Tempranillo, and Grenache. In fact, the 30 family-owned wineries of Umpqua Valley grow 40 different wine varieties.

We recently had a chance to tour Umpqua Valley during the Wine Media Conference in an excursion hosted by the Umpqua Valley Winegrowers Association. Here’s a look at five impressive Umpqua Valley wineries and we’ll continue with winery reports in our second part.


Meadows Estate Winery - 175 Hogan Road, Oakland, Oregon

Formerly MarshAnne Landing, this winery was purchased by Dexter and Marilyn Meadows in 2019. Meadows Estate Winery is 17 acres of deep, cobbled volcanic soil and features 10 varieties. We tried the first two wines that are “their own,” the 2017 White Grenache and the 2017 Syrah Rosé. The focus is on Rhone and Bordeaux varieties. Be sure to check out the Cote du Umpqua, a Rhone-style blend of 50-50 Grenache and Syrah.

Their goal is to produce “out of this world” wines. With a stylish tasting room that features a deck with scenic views and beautiful estate wines, Meadows Estate Winery is ready for liftoff.


Brandborg Vineyard and Winery - 345 First Street, Elkton, Oregon

Brandborg Vineyard and Winery are located in Elkton, the coolest and most maritime climate in the Umpqua Valley. I was familiar with their elegant Pinot Noir but got my introduction to their Alsace-style white wines during my visit. With just a touch of sweetness, their Bradley Vineyard Riesling is one of the top sellers in Oregon. The 2015 Bradley Vineyard Gewürztraminer is an award-winner with citrus and green apple notes.

The array of 11 different Pinot Noir includes the 2014 Ferris Wheel Pinot Noir, limited to 465 cases and supple with blackberry, spice, and cherry notes.  The Ferris Wheel Vineyard is the most westerly in Umpqua Valley and stands at 1,000 feet and just 30 miles from the ocean. For a treat, try the 2018 2018 Fleur de Lis (White) Pinot Noir.


Bradley Vineyards and River’s Edge Winery - 1395 River Drive, Elkton, Oregon

We tasted wine from these outstanding wineries at River’s Edge. Bradley Vineyards was founded by John and Richard Bradley and sold almost all of the crops to wineries around Oregon. When friends opened the River’s Edge Winery, it provided an opportunity to begin producing a small amount of wine under the Bradley Vineyard label.

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Our tasting began with the River’s Edge 2019 Aligoté. There’s not much of this white grape to be found in the US market. It’s light and crisp with a delicious minerality. In a bottle with a distinctive piece of art, the River’s Edge Cascade is a Pinot Noir pet nat wine with just the right amount of bubbles and a nice unfiltered texture.

The 35th Leaf Edition (it’s their 35 harvest) 2018 Skin Contact Gewürztraminer from Bradley takes Gewürz and stands it on its ear. The unique orange color comes from skin contact during primary fermentation. The bouquet is a blast of roses, which gives way to tree-fruit and spicy flavors. Their 2018 My Bon Pinot Noir uses Pommard and Wadenswil clones. It’s a classic beauty.


Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards - 960 Cal Henry Road, Roseburg, Oregon

Our lunch stop was at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards and, if I had my way, I would still be at the winery! Owner and winemaker Stephen Reustle has carved an impressive wine estate in the shadow of Tyee Mountain. There are 14 grape varieties planted among the 40 acres of vines. The complex includes a winery and tasting cave as well as an observation deck and amphitheater.

Inside the wine cave, we were treated to a gourmet meal with a salmon entrée. In 2005, Reustle became the first winery in the US to commercially produce Grüner Veltliner. The 2018 Grüner has a big mouthfeel and round mineral flavors, perfect for our fish dish. We closed with a cheese course that featured the 2019 Syrah. Their 2012 Syrah took the title of Best Syrah in the World in the 6 Nations Wine Challenge. It’s a savory wine with blackberry and cocoa notes.

There is indeed a Prayer Rock, a large boulder at the top of a south-facing slope that served as a meeting place for Stephen and his son. Reustle Prayer Rock is an answer to a wine lover’s prayer.

More fun in Umpqua Valley in the second part of our story, coming soon.

Wednesday, January 6, 2021

Watermill 2017 Hallowed Stones Cabernet Franc, The Rocks District

Hallowed Stones 2017 Cabernet Franc SMReady to rock your world? Try wines from this small Oregon wine region.

Terroir For Perfect Wines

What’s the most exciting AVA in the US? That’s a difficult question to answer. A number of new ones were approved in 2020, even one called Candy Mountain in Washington State.

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An AVA that is opening eyes and pleasing palates is The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, established in 2015. The Rocks District is located in the Walla Walla Valley AVA, which overlaps the Oregon and Washington border, but is located entirely on the Oregon side.

In 2019 I visited the region and was dazzled by the quality of wine and the unique growing conditions of the land. The Rocks District is a mere 3,767 acres, of which less than 350 are planted. Compare that with the Columbia Valley AVA, which also includes parts of Washington and Oregon, at more than 11 million acres of which roughly 60,000 are under vine.

The quality tops the charts: Four perfect 100-point wines were made using Rocks District grapes -- and the Rocks District is the only Oregon AVA to produce any 100-point wines. How can such a small space so captivate wine lovers?

Hallowed Stones Soil SMA Singular Soil

Other AVAs include patchworks of different soil types, but the Rocks District boasts the largest percentage of a single soil type of any AVA. What soil it is! The AVA boundaries are based upon the geographical distribution of the Freewater soil series, which comes from the cobblestone-rich gravels deposited by the Walla Walla River. The cobblestones consist entirely of basalt, a dark-colored, volcanic rock whose origins are the Blue Mountains.

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The soil would seem a very unlikely candidate to farm anything, let alone world-class wine. The fields are filled with softball-size cobblestones that seem to make any planting or tilling a gargantuan task. Therein lies the secret.

The cleared soil between rows of vines absorbs solar radiation and transmits it to the roots and low-hanging fruit to encourage early bud-break and growth. The surface stones help moderate the effects of cool weather by radiating warmth at night. The mineral elements in the weathered basalt? Well, the resulting flavors are sublime.

Finesse In A Glass

Watermill Winery is producing Rock District wines that positively shine. I enjoyed a lovely tasting and tour during my visit. Cabernet Franc is always a favorite with us, so I purchased a bottle that we opened recently.

Watermill Hallowed Stones Cab Franc and Beef Stroganoff SMAndrew Brown is the winemaker for the 2017 Hallowed Stones Cabernet Franc of which 250 cases were produced. It is 100% Cabernet Franc from the Freewater Cobble soil of the Rocks District. It gets 11 months of aging in French oak, (30% new).

In this Cab Franc creation, the vegetal notes are dialed-back in favor of a flowing minerality. There are precise chords of raspberry and blueberry with some savory notes.The ABV is 13.9%, but the wine is approachable and balanced so well we gave it nary a thought.

The wine is truly finesse and grace in a glass. We paired the wine with vegetarian beef stroganoff and it melded wonderfully with the creamy sauce.

Both the 2017 and 2018 vintages are available from Watermill at $40. I’d suggest the 2017 while you can get it. The Hallowed Stone series also features Syrah and Tempranillo. It’s time to rock out!

Friday, June 19, 2020

Oregon’s Rogue Valley A Treasure Trove Of Wine and Natural Wonders

Crater Lake is the gem of Southern Oregon

Oregon is an increasingly popular destination for visitors from around the world. The appeal includes unspoiled nature, fantastic food and wine, wine wine!

Rogue Valley wine from Irvine & RobertsThe Wonders Of Southern Oregon

Rogue Valley Oregon is considered a paradise for many reasons. The wild and scenic Rogue River runs from the iconic Crater Lake to the Pacific. Attractions that bring droves of tourists include the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and the Pacific Crest Trail.

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The Rogue Valley AVA is on the ascent and wine lovers are discovering that the unique climate and varieties set it apart from other regions in the state. During a recent International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association webinar, Oregon’s Rogue Valley was highlighted. A representative from Travel Medford and winemakers from the Rogue Valley Vintners talked about the unique attractions and wine of the area.

Medford – The Heart Of Rogue Valley

Medford offers a vibrant downtown and an ideal jumping off point for exploring Rouge Valley attractions. Less than an hour-and-a-half away is one of the biggest of them all.

Irvine & Roberts 2017 Estate Pinot Noir with Pork Chops

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Crater Lake National Park features the deepest lake in the US. Its brilliant sapphire blue water and stunning setting attract scores of artists, photographers, and sightseers and inspire visitors from around the world. The park offers hiking for all levels, boat tours, and a 33-mile road around the lake that offers awesome views of the lake’s volcanic scenery. About 7,700 years ago, a violent eruption collapsed an ancient volcano forming the lake. Today, visitors marvel at the panoramic views and natural formations of Wizard Island and Phantom Ship.

The Table Rocks are one of the most popular hiking locations in the Rogue Valley, with over 45,000 visitors annually. Two trails, Lower Table Rock Trail and Upper Table Rock Trail, were cut across the plateaus' slopes in the early 1980s by the Youth Conservation Corps, Boy Scouts, and the Oregon Department of Forestry. Upper Table Rock and Lower Table Rock are two prominent volcanic plateaus created by lava flow approximately seven million years ago.

Founded 1935, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF) has grown from a three-day festival of two plays to a nationally renowned theatre arts organization that presents an eight-month season of up to 11 plays that include works by Shakespeare as well as a mix of classics, musicals, and world-premiere plays and musicals. The 2020 season has been cancelled due to COVID-19, but there is plenty more to see and do in the area. You can start planning now for the 2021 season.

Agricultural tourism opportunities include gourmet food purveyor Harry and David. The business was started in 1910 and brothers Harry and David Rosenberg rose to success by marketing juicy and sweet Rogue Valley pears as luxury items around the world.

Trophy-winning Rogue Creamery, founded in the 1930s, continues to thrive and their cheeses are sold worldwide. The creamery produced the first blue cheese cultured in caves west of the Missouri River. Rogue Creamery was also the first US Creamery to earn the title of World’s Best Blue Cheese.

Anchor Valley WinesRocking The Rogue

What could go better with cheese than premium wine? With about 55 wineries spread over four wine trails and Medford, Rogue Valley is a wine lover’s delight.

The Rogue Valley AVA is the southernmost wine region in Oregon. As a result, many grapes thrive here that are little seen in other parts of the state. There are more than 70 different grape varieties and 4,860 acres of vines.

The most widely planted red varieties include Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Malbec. Higher temperatures (Medford is less than 30 miles from California) allow the production of robust, flavorful reds from grapes that are difficult to ripen in northern Oregon. The most common white varieties planted include Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Viognier.

There are many wineries to like in Rogue Valley. We had the chance to sample wines from two and came away impressed.

Irvine & Roberts is an ultra-premium winery in Ashland. The 80-acre ranch features a high altitude vineyard that produces wine with depth, flair and elegance. We paired the 2017 Irvine & Roberts Pinot Noir with Pork Chops and Sunflower Gremolata. The Pinot has an intriguing complexity with harmonious flavors of cranberry and spice with a silky, savory finish. Honestly, we were dazzled by this wine. Irvine & Roberts also offers a single-varietal Pinot Meunier, a rare find for wine lovers who enjoy this red grape that is a traditional ingredient in Champagne.

Anchor Valley has its tasting room in historic Jacksonville.  The winery opened in 2018 and scored a Double-Gold medal with their first Pinot Gris. Their 2018 Pinot Gris is superb Oregon Pinot Gris with minerality, green apple and a taste of citrus. As if to demonstrate the versatility of wines from the Rogue Valley, the 2017 Petite Sirah is inky dark with a velvety finish with a focus on a mélange blue and black fruit flavors.

Whatever you seek in your next trip to Oregon, be it outdoor adventure, world-class attractions, or incredible wines, you can find it in Rogue Valley. Your best source for information on the Rogue is the Travel Medford site.

Full disclosure: Wine was received as a marketing sample.

Friday, December 6, 2019

White and Sparkling Wines To Highlight Your Holiday Feast

Left Coast Cellars Blanc de NoirThe month of December into January is a time for soirées and entertaining. Here are some stellar picks for your holiday party table.

Bring On The Bubbles!

Sparkling wine brings a luster to your holiday bash. Consider Left Coast Cellars 2013 Blanc de Noir, a traditional method sparkler. This wine is from Oregon’s newest wine region, the Van Duzer Corridor in Willamette Valley.

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Blanc de Noir indicates white wine made with red grapes. Willamette Valley is known for its Pinot Noir and those acclaimed grapes are used in this Blanc de Noir. We just loved the full flavors of apple and raspberry paired with outstanding perlage (bubbles!).

A mere 135 cases were produced. The SRP is $55. Left Coast Cellars also makes an array of Pinot Noirs that are ideal for entertaining.

Domaine Rombeau 2015 AndréaGet Your Grenache Blanc Going

We have increasingly been popping the cork on Grenache and Garnacha, two different names for one great grape. It is one of the oldest and most widely planted grapes in the world.

In France’s Rhône Valley, Grenache is a primary grape, typically paired with Syrah. It is also part of the GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blends popular worldwide. Garnacha is grown in almost every area of Spain and graces the well-regarded wines of Priorat and Cariñena.

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While most Grenache is of the red variety, white Grenache/Garnacha is making a name for itself with high-quality wines. We popped open the Domaine Rombeau 2015 Andréa from France's Cotes du Roussillon region. It was a perfect match with our holiday turkey.

This is a unique white Grenache blend with 31% White Grenache, 29% Grey Grenache, 14% Marsanne, 13% Malvoisie, and 13% Vermentino. This had a full body and complex structure with grapefruit and peppery notes. It has a golden hue and is a limited production wine. Only 3,000 bottles were produced.

Blue Fish Riesling and General Tso's CauliflowerRiesling Rendezvous

With the varied meals that accompany your holiday festivities, remember one word: Riesling! We love Riesling for its food-friendly nature and the broad range of styles. You can opt for a bone-dry bottle or a range of choices up to a sweet late harvest wine.

Germany built its wine reputation on this grape and its a good choice when making your wine selection. For a recent vegan feast prepared by our daughter we opted for the 2018 Blue Fish Riesling from Pfalz.

Our meal included General Tso’s Cauliflower with rice and green onions along with a Napa cabbage salad and chile garlic edamame.

Riesling is a classic pairing with spicy foods. Blue Fish is a dry Riesling with a nice balance. It has flavors of lemons and peaches with a thread of minerality. At under $10, this is an outstanding buy!

Thursday, November 7, 2019

What’s In Your Glass? Here’s A Look At What We’re Drinking Now

WIYG 110619WIYG? That’s a question we are often asked. Here’s a look at what we’re sipping.

Rabbit Ridge 2014 Allure de Robles, Paso Robles

This Rhone-style blend from Paso Robles is primarily Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre with some other unspecified varieties as well. I picked this up for $12.99 and it outperforms at this price.

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Much deeper in essence than you might expect, with a woodsy flavor and strawberry notes. The wine is barrel-aged, and there is a nice touch of vanilla and oak.

Schöne Tal Cellars 2016 Pinot Noir, Meredith Mitchell Vineyard, McMinnville

This single vineyard Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley is a sensational wine. Priced at $50, it comes from a biodynamic site.

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Minimal intervention and natural fermentation are used. The wine is balanced  featuring gorgeous raspberry flavors stitched together with rustic herbal notes. Our first taste from this winery and it won’t be our last.

Skinner Vineyards Smithereens 2016 Red Blend, El Dorado

Smithereens refers to the blasting used in mines to reach gold deposits. The El Dorado region of California is gold country, and we struck paydirt with this wine.

A blend of 51% Grenache, 31% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 5% Counoise, this is a ripe and delicious wine that I purchased online. It was a steal at $12.99 as it retails for more than $20. The wine has spice notes and rumbling dark cherry and cranberry. A lilting minerality keeps it juicy. A surprisingly great purchase.

Stoller 2017 Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills

One of our favorite Willamette Valley wineries, I rarely see Stoller on the wine shop shelves. When I did, I grabbed this bottle for $25. If you can’t visit their winery, the next best thing is uncorking Stoller along with a delicious meal.

This is Stoller’s entry level Pinot Noir, but terming it thus does it injustice. This is a very good Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It is highlighted with bright red fruit and a taste of cola. Great balance and silky tannins make this an ideal wine for your salmon or pork entree. Aging is primarily in neutral French oak, ensuring that this is a very nuanced wine. While the reserve level Stoller wines will launch you into the stratosphere, this bottle will give you  nice ride up into the clouds.

Tuesday, July 23, 2019

Wine And Cider Fortunes Boosted By Oregon Collaborative Efforts

Son of Man Cidery - Oui Wine Bar

Busting into the craft beverage market, be it wine or cider, can be an expensive and daunting proposition. In Oregon entrepreneurial souls share resources, combine marketing efforts and collaborate for success.

All Together Now

Wine collaboratives are a common thing in Europe. Individual winegrowers don’t have the wherewithal to pay for all the equipment to vint or store their wine, let alone market it. So, these farmers become part of a commune or collaborative where the costs can be borne collectively.

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During our recent visit to Oregon we saw two impressive examples of cooperation.  Son of Man Basque cidery in Cascade Locks and the Southeast Wine Collective in Portland provide collaboration that is boosting craft cider and wine and feeding the entrepreneurial spirit.

Son Of Man… And Family

Jasper Smith is a cider maker, albeit an unconventional one. Not content to make your typical hard cider and open a tasting room in Portland, or say Hood River, he decided to focus on sagardo, a Basque-style cider. For his tasting room, he picked out a large warehouse building in Cascade Locks. The facility can easily accommodate 150 for events.

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Son of Man opened in the summer of 2018. Making sagardo requires four months of fermentation in oversized oak barrels called foeders. It is dry, complex and is a perfect complement for a good meal. Using wild fermentation, Oregon apples and no filtering or fining, Son of Man Sagardo is a tart treat.

But don’t just pour yourself a glass. Heavens no. To truly enjoy sagardo, you must use the “long pour.” Hold your glass as far away from the bottle as possible, or if you are at Son of Man, get ready to catch the stream of cider shooting straight from the spigot. The long pour aerates the cider and creates its signature bubbles.

As if this wildly successful cider startup isn’t enough, the Son of Man building also houses two small production wineries rapidly gaining notoriety: The Color Collector and Buona Notte. Bethany Kimmel is the owner and winemaker for The Color Collector (TC Collector to friends). Her focus is Gamay Noir, of which there is roughly 30 acres planted in Oregon. The grape is low in alcohol, but high in acidity and fruit. The small production runs are avidly sought by a growing circle of wine connoisseurs.The 2017 TC Collector Gamay Noir undergoes carbonic maceration before being lightly pressed and aged in neutral oak. It’s one reason Gamay is creating excitement in Oregon.

Graham Markel is the force behind Buona Notte wines, a critical favorite that is showing up in area wine shops such as Park Avenue Fine Wines in Portland. The wines are crafted from Italian varieties Sangiovese and Dolcetto with Sauvignon Blanc also offered. The Rosa Rosé of Dolcetto beautifully blends acidity and structure to create a perfect pairing with grilled fish. The grapes come from the Columbia Gorge AVA, which includes portions in both Oregon and Washington. The Cento Per Cento Sangiovese is another beautiful bottle showing graceful cherry notes with a dash of spice. Buona Notte also produces Vermouth, made from rosé of Pinot Noir with herbs and botanicals.

Southeast Wine CollectiveSon Of Man Cider is an appealing destination with cider, wine and special events. Although it is located in an unassuming warehouse building, the rear doors open to a beautiful view of the Columbia River and is close to the attraction of the Cascade Locks.

Keeping Portland Collaborative

With the cost of a single French oak barrel ranging up to $2,000, it’s no surprise that winemaking is an expensive proposition. Portland’s Southeast Wine Collective is helping wine creatives by sharing resources, trading knowledge and bolstering spirits.

The Southeast Wine Collective is an urban winery and custom crush facility that also features Oui! Wine Bar and Restaurant where you can taste the wines produced onsite. SWC was founded by Kate Norris and Tom Monroe and opened in 2012.

Division Winemaking Company is the winery of Kate and Tom and is based at the SWC facility. SWC offers state-of-the-art equipment and highly skilled staff needed for everything from harvest crush, fermentation, blending, and aging to filtration and bottling. At any given time, there are member wineries and others that utilize the custom crush services. After their launch, some wineries build their own tasting rooms or production facilities and move to the “alumni” category.

During our visit, Day Wines, Gamine, Viola Wine Cellars and Esper Cellars wines were tasted in addition to those from Division. Standouts included the Day 2018 “Babycheeks,” a rosé of Malbec, Tannat, and Cabernet Franc from the Rogue Valley; Gamine 2016 Grenache; a delightful Esper 2007 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley; Viola 2017 Aromatica Traminette, Columbia Gorge; and the Division 2012 “Deux” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley.

With so many member wineries and space at a premium in its urban location, keeping the wine production process flowing is a challenge. Production equipment, barrels and bottling must be tightly scheduled.  “We’ve learned to make wine by playing a grab game of Tetris,” said Monroe. “That’s the price you pay for having a winery in your neighborhood.”

The Southeast Wine Collective brings wine country to urban Portland, another example of how creativity and collaboration equal beautifully expressive wines in Oregon.

You may also enjoy:

Cross Border Cooperation Fuels Oregon And Washington Winemaking

Kiona Vineyards and Hightower Cellars Deliver Excellence In Washington’s Red Mountain AVA

Daring And Diverse Wine Flows From The Columbia Gorge AVA


Monday, July 15, 2019

Chardonnay Showcase Reveals Winners From Oregon, California, North Carolina And Italy

Chardonnay Showcase

During our recent tasting event, the Chardonnay showcase attracted attention to some tasty new Chardonnay releases.

California And Then Some

Chardonnay is the most popular white wine in the world. It’s by far and away the most popular wine in the US, continuing a decade of supremacy that has featured sales increases every year. While California is the acknowledged Chardonnay leader, we made some tasty discoveries from other regions during a recent tasting.

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Due to my wife’s involvement in a local women’s group, we ended up hosting a Sip, Sup and Support tasting for a local school clothing and supplies drive. With nearly 40 in attendance, we had some enthusiastic supporters of this charity work. Having an assortment of amazing wines didn’t hurt either.

We decided to showcase five outstanding Chardonnay releases. Four are domestic, from California, Oregon and North Carolina. For kicks we added an Italian Chardonnay.


Swordplay To Start

This will come as no surprise to anyone who has been in or around North Carolina these past couple weeks: It is sweltering hot. It was so hot, I saw a squirrel picking up nuts with a potholder in the backyard.

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You get the picture. Thankfully, I had our Chardonnay chilled in ice for more than four hours before our guests arrived.

After successfully sabering a bottle of French sparkling wine with a US Coast Guard officer sword and enjoying some sparkling wine, it was time to move to the Chardonnay showcase.

We had a pair of entries from Oregon. I’ve visited Oregon twice this year and one of the hot – or should I say cool? – trends is Chardonnay. Growers there have planted clones that thrive in cool climates and the results are delicious.

Our Chardonnay Showcase

Here’s a capsule look at our five Chardonnay wines featured in our showcase:

Regina di Cipro ChardonnayCameron Hughes 2017 Lot 672 Chardonnay, Rogue Valley, OR - A delightful surprise, this wine is on the Chablis side of the Chardonnay spectrum. Light with bright citrus fruit, mouthwatering pear flavor and plentiful acidity. If you don’t know Rogue Valley, Oregon’s southernmost wine region, this is a good reason to explore it. Cameron Hughes is a négociant and doesn’t own vineyards or a winery. Instead they specialize in locating superior quality at palatable prices under their own label. A steal at only $14 SRP with a value two or three times that.

Marshall Davis 2017 Chardonnay, Yamhill-Carlton, OR -- Chardonnay is a rising star in Willamette Valley. This micro-production (150 cases) wine is barrel fermented and aged 16 months in mostly neutral oak. Grown on gently sloping hills and planted in shallow volcanic topsoil, this Chard delivers flowing minerality, pear notes, tropical fruit and perfect balance. An example of the new winning style of Oregon Chardonnay. SRP $39.

Dry Creek Vineyards 2917 DCV Estate Block 10 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley -- Luxurious, handcrafted wine from one of America’s top Chardonnay regions. The balance is impeccable with the perfect touch of oak rounding out a rich glass of roasted pear, lime, and apricot flavors. Grapes are whole cluster pressed to extract complex flavors. A smooth and limited-production success at SRP $34.

Surry Cellars 2015 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Yadkin Valley, NC – Yes, America, high-quality wine is being produced in North Carolina. This wine is made by students at Surry Community College studying at the Shelton-Badgett NC Center for Viticulture and Enology, a winery and teaching facility. Oaky Chardonnay fans in our group loved this wine, which has lush flavors with deep oak notes. It was barrel-aged for two years and underwent battonage to develop a deep golden hue and full-bodied flavors. It looks like the future of wine in North Carolina is in good hands.

Peri Bigogno Regina Di Cipro 2016 Chardonnay Montenetto di Brescia IGP – The “Queen of Cyprus” is a light and breezy Chardonnay from the Old World. In addition to pineapple and apricot flavors, there is a distinct savory aspect to this medium-bodied wine. This Chardonnay is aged in stainless steel to maintain the fresh, crisp flavors. It’s also the lowest ABV of the group at 12.5%. SRP is $22.

There’s no better time to pop open a nicely chilled bottle of Chardonnay. Whether you like deeply oaked Chardonnay, more balance, or a stainless steel finish there is a bottle for you at a price that’s easy to swallow.