Cherry Creek Cellars Scores Michigan Governor's Cup Win with Cool Climate Pinot Noir

Cherry Creek Cellars Owner Patrick Spensley and winemaker Kyle Baker produced the 2025 Michigan Governor's Cup-winning wine, a cool climate Pinot Noir.

Pinot Noir is a finicky grape that drives vineyard managers mad and the wine-loving public wild. Notoriously difficult to grow, Burgundy, California, and Oregon produce sterling examples of this variety, so you may be caught off guard to hear of an award-winning Pinot Noir from Michigan. 

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Michigan has been a rising star in the growing cool climate wine movement. Most vineyards are located within 25 miles of Lake Michigan or Lake Erie, and the insulating effect makes it an ideal location for cool-climate varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. While climate change has created havoc for many traditional wine-growing regions, Michigan has actually gained four extra weeks of growing season due to rising temperatures.

Cherry Creek Cellars 2022 Charamar Pinot Blanc and
Governor's Cup-winning 2023 Charamar Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir’s ascent in Michigan was validated at the 2025 Taste Michigan Governor’s Cup Competition, organized by the Michigan Wine Collaborative. Earning the Michigan Governor’s Cup winner (best of show) for 2025 was Cherry Creek Cellars, with their 2023 Charamar Collection Pinot Noir. It ranked the highest out of 154 entries from 33 wineries submitted to the competition. The Governor’s Cup is Michigan’s only statewide industry-driven wine competition.

Cherry Creek Cellars, with its distinctive historic schoolhouse tasting room, is located in Brooklyn, Michigan, and is part of the River Raisin Wine Trail. Patrick Spensley is the owner. His introduction to the wine industry was while traveling abroad in New Zealand. He spent 10 months working off and on in vineyards and cellars while exploring the country. 

Upon return to the US, he served as vineyard manager and winemaker at Cherry Creek under the former owners before purchasing the operation. “It really was the perfect situation, an established business with a loyal customer base and great wines, my real job was just to keep the train on the tracks and bring a few new ideas and events into the mix,” he said.

How exactly is winemaking in Michigan different from New Zealand? According to Spensley, much of it is the same. “In my mind, the major difference is just the climate and, therefore, the profiles in the wines produced,” he said. “New Zealand is known for amazing Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, but I wouldn’t ever try to tell you that our Pinot or Sauv Blanc is similar to the wines they are producing there. However, I would tell you that you could line ours up next to one of theirs and experience two very different, but equally great wines.”

In the glass, the light garnet color of the Charamar Pinot Noir was a surprise. Sipping provides delightful notes of raspberry and cherry, with hints of earthiness and silky tannins. It’s juicy and savory with the right touch of richness.

“Personally, I think there are some amazing Pinot Noirs in Michigan,” said Spensley. “Sure, some years the weather/climate doesn’t cooperate, but that's true of any wine region around the country or even the world. In other years, we produce amazing Pinot Noir across the state. In our experience, our best Pinots are typically lighter-bodied than most, but that allows a lot of the rest of what makes Pinot Noir so special to shine through. The Charamar Pinot is light-bodied, but full of fruit; it has enough tannin and acid to hold up to the right pairing; the barrel notes are present and not overshadowed by the other components.”

The Charamar Collection is Cherry Creek’s premium line of wines. It typically, but not always, features vinifera grapes. It's named after the family farm Spensley grew up on and features small batch runs of their best wines.

We also sampled the 2022 Charamar Pinot Blanc, a lively white with just a whisper of sweetness. It is crisp with plentiful minerality and peach and white floral notes.

Cherry Creek Cellars vineyard

Cherry Creek’s location in South Central Michigan limits the varieties they can grow, so they rely on contracts with other vineyards around the state. The estate vineyard exclusively features cold-hardy hybrids like Frontenac and Adalmiina, among others, that mostly end up in blends. Most contracts are with growers of premium vinifera from the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, though they do get some fruit from the Leelanau Peninsula. All the grapes in their wines are proudly grown in Michigan.

The hybrid grapes provide challenges of their own, but according to Spensley, their resilience is unmatched. “In my 15 years here, we’ve had some brutal winters, but the vines wake up in the spring like nothing ever happened,” he said. “I love our vines and working in the vineyard when I’m not pulled in 100 different directions.” He notes that some of their most popular wines are produced with hybrids.

Cherry Creek Cellars historic schoolhouse tasting room

Their charming tasting room is a historic one-room schoolhouse. Square footage is limited, but they have an exceptional outdoor space used year-round with bands and live music in the summer and igloos and events throughout the winter. A winemaker dinner series is offered as well as a regular café menu of shareable dishes.

As if sipping the tip-top wine in the state isn’t enough, Cherry Creek also offers cider and beer. “We have four to five staple ciders and a couple of rotating taps, depending on the season,” said Spensley. “Like our wines, they range from dry to sweet and feature some fun and unique flavors. We chose to offer ciders (and beer) because they fit our 'something for everyone' mantra. We understand that not everyone is a wine drinker, but we promise that whether it's wine, beer, or cider, we have something on our list that you’ll enjoy. Honestly, our list is probably too big for a small winery, but it's our mission to make sure everyone walks away having enjoyed their time here.” 

Hestan Wines Highlight Festive Spring Dinner

We celebrate Spring with four premium wines.

“Spring Into Fun” was the theme of our recent wine dinner, which featured wines from Hestan Vineyards paired with gourmet small plates. Hestan is a picturesque Napa estate named for owners Helen and Stanley Cheng whose passion for fine wine and love for Napa Valley's charm led them to purchase the former cattle ranch in 1996. Stanley pioneered hard-anodized cookware in the 1970s, so we saluted this wine with a culinary tour de force. 

The evening began with some Premier Cru Champagne with panko-coated cauliflower florets and chimichurri two ways. Our daughter Rachel provided the amuse-bouche as well as the dessert. Delicious!

Prosciutto-wrapped asparagus spears in puff pastry appetizer were paired with the 2022 Hestan Sauvignon Blanc. This complex wine gets six months of aging in stainless steel and neutral oak. It has aromas of white blossoms and flavors of pear, honeysuckle, and lemon.

The 2020 Hestan Chardonnay comes from the San Francisco AVA. Appropriately enough our next dish was accompanied by homemade sourdough bread made with a starter from San Francisco. The garden salad was dressed with tarragon vinaigrette and the bread was served with truffle oil. This Chardonnay has ample oak and offers notes of apricot, vanilla, and toast.

The stunning 2019 Vincent Christopher Pinot Noir was our next wine offering. It is a single-vineyard wine from Sonoma Coast made with Dijon clones 113 and 828. The label was created for the Hestan line of Pinot Noir and is named for the Hestans’ two sons. Our dish was served with seared snapper and fruit salsa made with apple, strawberry,
and basil. We tip our hats to winemaker Jeff Gaffner for creating a beautiful mélange of cranberry, black cherry, cedar, and herbal tones. I would have enjoyed sipping this all night.

The 2019 Hestan Grenache, served with grilled skirt steak and Mojo sauce, surprised our guests. They didn't expect the intensity and rich flavors. The wine is made with whole-cluster fermentation and is aged 15 months in neutral oak.  It was an ideal match with the wine displaying pure raspberry flavors, plum, and herbal notes. 

Hestan Vineyards delivered a premium wine experience that delighted our dinner party guests.

Blindfold 2021 Blanc de Noir White Pinot Noir

You may need to do a doubletake on this photograph. Yes, it is a bottle and glass of Pinot Noir, but it is a glowing, platinum gold color.

This is the Prisoner Wine Company’s white Pinot Noir, Blindfold. It is also labeled Blanc de Noir, meaning a white wine created from red grapes.

I picked this up from the closeout section of a local grocery. They have some very good wines so I usually swing by the wine section to look for bargains.

Red wines derive their color from contact with the grape skins (maceration). For white wines, the grapes are pressed and the skins are removed before fermentation.

My experience with white Pinot Noir is mixed at best. While it is cool to have a Pinot Noir that is white, I’m still looking to sip a great wine. Blindfold falls short of that mark.

Let me explain. The SRP for this Blanc de Noir is $35 but I picked it up for half price. For under $20, you can pick up a lower-end Oregon Pinot Noir that will satisfy you in every way and deliver a wine that checks all the varietal hallmarks.

Blindfold isn’t a great white wine and certainly isn’t a great Pinot Noir. For that matter, it isn’t 100% Pinot Noir. It has small amounts of Viognier and Gewürztraminer.

I opted to chill the wine, but let it warm a bit more than I would for, say, a Sauvignon Blanc. The aroma gives no hint that it is mostly Pinot Noir. Instead, there are citrus notes.

This isn’t a wine that tastes like a red but simply looks white. It drinks like a white wine with notes of white blossom and peach. Also, the wine is lacking in the texture and depth that make Pinot Noir a special wine.

Blindfold isn’t terrible, but it is a disappointment at $35. If it weren’t a white Pinot Noir, it would be a non-descript white wine. To amuse dinner guests, you could serve this and have everyone try to guess the variety. Instead, I would suggest picking up a nice French Chablis or Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

South African Dinner Dazzles With Tasteful Dishes And Stark-Condé Wine

Stark-Condé South African Wines

Wines from South Africa find the sweet spot between Old World winemaking techniques and New World flavors.

Stark-Condé Syrah

Diverse Roots

When we were invited to sample a selection of South African wines from Stark-Condé. It was the perfect occasion to throw an aandete partytjie (dinner party) pairing these delicious bottles with elegant dishes.

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Stark-Condé is a family business that encompasses a story of diversity as well.

South African patriarch Hans Schroder was raised in Stellenbosch. In the 1960s while attending university in Japan, Hans met and married fellow student Midori Maruyama. At the time, their marriage was illegal in Hans’ native South Africa due to the apartheid regime’s Prohibition of Mixed Marriages Act so the young couple settled in Japan. They remained in Tokyo for the next nearly three decades where they raised three daughters.

South African dinner and scallop entree

In the late 1980s and with the changes on the horizon in South Africa, Hans and Midori decided it was time to return to his native country. They purchased the Oude Nektar farm in 1989 and focused on growing grapes. In 1998, eldest daughter Marie and her American husband José also relocated to South Africa to join the family – and the family business, where with an artisan’s attention to detail and a purist’s approach in the cellar, José slowly developed Stark-Condé’s wines.

Gary and Diane and Bobotie

Today, Stark-Condé wines and the family of brands includes Stark-Condé, MAN Family Wines, Lievland Vineyards, Essay, and KaraTara. The range has something for everyone, from wine novice to lovers of classically styled wines.

Celebrating South African Wine

Friends enjoying dinner and sosatie kabob

To make a six-course meal possible, we enlisted the culinary expertise of our guests, inviting them to create a dish for an assigned wine. Our guests were Kyle and Natalie Hampton, Arthur and Mary Barham, Rob and Chris Rudloff, and Gary and Diane Wessell. Of course, this would not have been possible without the cooking and organizing of my wife, the Green Dragon.

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After a bit of bubbly, we uncorked our first SA wine: the 2021 Warrelwind Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, from MAN. Warrelwind is a whirlwind in Afrikaans, and this was a beauty, with an accent on herbaceousness and rich tropical notes. A nice accompaniment to the fresh Caprese Salad.

South African Chenin Blanc

Chenin Blanc is one of South Africa’s most well-known wines, and we featured two on our menu. The first was the 2021 Monk Stone Chenin, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, from Stark-Condé. This is a complex wine aged in amphorae and second-use oak. It has lovely nectarine and apple flavors with notes of wet stone. The tasty leek and asparagus quiche was a perfect partner, not overpowering the delicate tastes of the wine.

The 2021 Essay (“S A” get it?) is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, and Viognier from the Coastal Region. This wine is slightly off-dry with generous fruit and a palate of pineapple and guava. It is a dynamite food fine and glasses were refilled and the bottle emptied as we tasted the succulent seared scallops and shrimp served with oranges and rocket salad. At an SRP of $11.99, this is a steal.

Bobotie is a South African casserole with minced beef at the bottom and a thin layer of egg custard on the top. Diane and Gary seasoned it to perfect. The KaraTara Pinot Noir was striking with the bobotie. I couldn’t imagine a better match. A touch of pepper is typical from Pinots in this area and it really worked with this dish. It also had classic cherry and strawberry notes.

Exploring South African Cuisine

Sosatie is a lamb kebab from South Africa with Cape Malay roots. Arthur whipped this up with three different sauces, including one with apricot. In the past, the only really good Pinotage I’ve had is what I tasted in South Africa. The Lievland Bushvine Pinotage from Paarl turned my preconception upside down. This was an elegant Pinotage with luscious raspberry and hints of oak and vanilla. It is a smooth and savory wine. SRP is $18.99.

Caprese salad and rich dessert

Do they love dark chocolate in South Africa? We don’t know, but the Green Dragon decided that a Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake would be the ideal pairing with the 2018 Stark-Condé Syrah. She was right. The key to pairing with Syrah is to have dark or bittersweet chocolate desserts. Something sweet would be a recipe for disaster. This was a scrumptious highlight of the evening. The Syrah is one of the best I’ve tasted this year, rich with dark fruit and jammy currant. The tannins are silky smooth and there is a touch of savory mushroom on the close.

Our guests were quite tickled with the fantastic food and wine feast, but we were not done. As we continued to savor the cheesecake, I opened a bottle of Amarula. Amarula is often shared during a South African braai, a gathering of friends and family around a wood-fired grill. The creme liqueur is made from the Marula fruit, which is the favorite food of African elephants. It is creamy with a fruity, toffee-like flavor.

It was an evening to remember thanks to a culinary marriage of great food and exemplary South African wines.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Nysa Wines Offer A Glimpse of Willamette Valley Greatness

Dundee Hills is the epicenter of Oregon Pinot Noir. Now we know why.

In Greek mythology, Nysa is a secret land full of lush fruit trees and vineyards where young Dionysus, the god of wine was raised. The forces emanating from Mount Nysa are said to be powerful. We found ourselves falling under the spell of three new wines from Nysa – actually from Nysa Vineyard, the Willamette Valley winery in the Dundee Hills.

The family-owned operation was begun in 1990 when owner and winemaker, Michael Mega purchased a parcel of orchards high with the goal of creating a world-class Pinot Noir. The goal creating wines of complexity, concentration, and balance while using minimalistic winemaking techniques and organic farming.

The grapes are grown at 600 to 720 feet elevation. Nysa case production is under 1,000, but that may soon change as wines will soon be available outside Oregon in shops across the US in such wine-loving states as California, Texas, New York, North and South Carolina, and Illinois.

We had the opportunity to taste the 2019 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the 2016 Pinot Noir, all from Dundee Hills. Dundee Hills is where Oregon Pinot Noir first gained its worldwide reputation.  Early pioneers such as David Lett of Eyrie, Dick Erath, and the Sokol Blossers planted many of Oregon’s first vineyards.

To taste the Chardonnay and 2016 Pinot, we planned a special dinner, an amazing meal with Duck Breast l'Orange entrée. Duck is a perfect pairing with Pinot Noir, whose fruity notes play perfectly with the rich dark meat. I wasn't sure about Chardonnay.

The Chardonnay uses grapes from the Nysa estate block of Wente clone vines. This wine went through malolactic fermentation and then spent 10 months in neutral French oak barrels. We discovered that this Willamette Valley Chard with beautiful tropical fruit notes and a taste of honey worked wonderfully with the duck, asparagus, and mushroom risotto.   

The 2016 Nysa is an amazing Pinot. It is a blend of different vineyard blocks throughout the estate. The grapes were fermented in small lot bins before aging in French oak (25% new). Light garnet in the glass with the perfect touch of acidity, delicate layers of red fruit, dry herbs, leather, and nuanced earth tones show through. This was an ideal pairing and just an exceptional wine. 

We got a look at the younger 2019  Nysa Pinot. On the palate, there are beautiful smooth red cherries a touch of baking spices, and a touch of minerality. Tasty now, we expect this vintage to rock after another two or three years of aging.

Nysa Pinot Noir ranges from $75 to $105, and Chardonnay starts at $65, all depending on the vintage.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Wines For Animal Lovers: Sipping These Great Values Benefits Four-Legged Friends

We love California Cab and Oregon Pinot Noir, especially when they support charities that help animals.

Time was when an upstart wine from Australia planted a picture of a kangaroo on its label and conquered the American wine market. After the success of Yellowtail, many animal labels emerged: birds, bears, cows, mice, and pigs. Animals can make an attractive label, but it is what is inside that is the primary attraction for me.

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We recently popped open two wines with an animal theme but with a difference. The labels aren’t simply to draw in the curious, but to celebrate their commitment to helping four-legged friends.

Firesteed 2021 Pinot Noir, Oregon

Firesteed winery in Oregon’s Willamette Valley produces an array of Pinot Noir and other wines like Pinot Gris and Riesling. It also has some AVA-specific Pinot Noirs, that highlight select vineyards in Willamette. They also offer a wallet-friendly Oregon Pinot Noir from several sites around the state.

We opened this 2021 Pinot Noir and immediately found a satisfying wine that delivered a great Oregon Pinot experience. The price is a mere $17 and for that, it was surprising to taste cherry notes with a healthy earthiness. Toast and spice round out a silky palate.

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Not only does Firesteed deliver a great QPR (quality price ratio), but a portion of each sale benefits our animal friends. The winery has partnered with Dreamer Horses Colorado,which provides boarding for retired horses on a 100-acre pasture on a family cattle ranch. Firesteed also contributes to the support of retired horses as they live out their best lives surrounded by fresh grass, sunshine, and equine friends.

Bar Dog 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, California

Bar Dog’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the statewide California AVA is a smooth drinking Cab we paired with grilled blue cheese burgers and sweet potato fries. The inspiration for the wine’s name comes from wine creator Terry Wheatley who has a Boston Terrier on her Central California ranch. The dog is a constant companion, like my dog Amber who is laying patiently a few feet away from me while I write this post.

The wine is a delicious everyday drinker. There are no complex layers but at a price point of about $12, it is what you expect it to be: a loyal, friendly, and tasty friend. The expressive flavors of black cherry, cocoa, and vanilla provide plenty of satisfaction right now. There are no heavy tannins and no need to age this wine, which we would suggest should be consumed within three years.

The Bar Dog certainly elevated our burgers-on-the-patio dinner. The winery also takes its commitment to animals beyond the bottle label. For the love of dogs and all they bring to our lives, Bar Dog wines has committed to supporting rescue shelters across North America in partnership with the Petfinder Foundation. The Petfinder Foundation awards grants funded by Bar Dog wines to shelters, helping them provide pet food, supplies, and veterinary treatment for dogs awaiting adoption.

Full Disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

German Pet-Net And Rosé Bring Thrills In The New Year

The year 2023 is off to a great start. We celebrated the advent of the new year with two great German wines. 

We really love pétillant naturel wines. Roughly translated as “naturally sparkling,” these wines are bottled during initial fermentation whereas most wines are bottled after fermentation. Instead pet-nat wines use the carbon dioxide that is a byproduct of fermentation to create blessedly delightful bubbles.

Brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand create certified organic and vegan wines using wild yeast in the Pfalz region of Germany. We started our celebrating with their funky Weingut Brand 2019 Pet-Nat. Made organically with a Silvaner and Pinot Blanc, this was an explosion of mineral and zesty citrus flavor. In the glass it was foamy and hazy. It is one of the best sparkling wines we've had. Hats off, Brand brothers.

We followed this with the 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé from Meyer Näkel. The wine comes from the Ahr region. The Romans began cultivating grapes in this area more than 1,000 years ago. The region has been focused on Pinot Noir since the 1700s.

Meyer-Näkel is a fifth-generation family. When Willibald Näkel established the vineyard with his wife Paula Meyer, they focused on dry red wine, something quite unusual for the time. Today the estate is run by his son Werner, his wife, and daughters. The winery produces about 10,000 cases per year, mostly Spätburgunder, which is what Pinot Noir is called in Germany.

The Pinot we tasted is a beautiful coral pink rosé. It's dry and smooth with an explosion of berries. If you haven’t yet tried German Pinot Noir, you are missing out. We suggest you start with this bottle, which costs $28 and is available at Wine.com.

These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Angela 2015 Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton 1.5 L

I felt so guilty. For many years I have only patronized two on-line wine retailers (as we’ll as my favorite local shops). An ad from WTSO (Wines ’Til Sold Out) caught my attention and I was hooked. Like some other sites, they offer a showcase deal several times a day, where you can snag a $100 Napa Cab for $29.99. They also have some “last chance” and premium wines so you always have a selection. The event that put me over the top was the Magnum Marathon.

For 24 hours, magnums were going to be offered at cut-rate prices with new bottles being offered every hour. I was locked in I also tuned in my wine tasting buddy Arthur, who is now known as the Wine Bandit. I scored four magnums including this single vineyard Pinot from Willamette Valley. This was the most expensive at $43. I also purchased a Sonoma Cabernet from a favorite AVA (Moon Mountain, a Rioja, and a Provence Rosé. The last two bottles were $27!

So this certainly endeared me to WTSO. The Angela 2015 Pinot Noir  is a single vineyard bottling from the Yamhill-Carlton AVA in Willamette Valley. I took it on a weekend reunion with friends in the Asheville area.

This is a real beauty that still is holding together, perhaps it is in a magnum. The magnum has twice as much wine as a normal bottle but exposes about the same amount of wine to air. So, the aging potential is better.

To me this was deliciously smooth with delicate red cherry and strawberry flavors. The body is medium-light with a tad of earthiness and notes of cherry cola. Angela is a project of Ken Wright and Antony Beck, son of Graham Beck, a South African winery owner and business magnate. The value of this magnum is sky high!

Since I have you thinking about magnums, let me share the main reasons you should love magnums:

1. Bring on the party! Magnums are impressive and perfect for entertaining.
2. Right sized. For a dinner party of six to eight people, a magnum is just the right size. For larger parties, it means fewer bottles to open.
3. Better aging. As mentioned above the greater wine to air ratio means better and longer aging than 750 ML.

Magnums can be pricey, but there are bargains out there! Poppppppp…. That’s the sound of me opening another magnum. Cheers!

Iris Vineyards 2020 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

A good value Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is always a reason to celebrate. During a recent webinar with the International Food, Wine, and Travel Writers Association, we explored the 2020 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Iris Vineyard. It has a $24 SRP and over-delivers with soft fruit notes balanced nicely with an underlying earthiness. Winemaker Aaron Lieberman explained that 2020 was a tricky vintage, which was marked by wildfires. This caused some adjustments to the picking and fermentation decisions, including extra time in oak barrels.

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Iris is a family-owned estate winery in the foothills of the Oregon Coast Mountain Range, in southern Willamette Valley. The tasting room is 30 minutes southwest of Eugene, Oregon. It is located on the 870-acre estate, with almost 50 acres of vineyard framed by restored woodlands.

This wine uses grapes from five different vineyards that span the Chehalem Mountain, Eola Hills, McMinnville and Yamhill-Carlton AVAs in Willamette. Despite a challenging harvest, we’re happy to say the end result is a highly enjoyable wine that can pair with everything from a nice stew to a charcuterie board.

These Romantic Red Wines Won Our Hearts

Want to be loved on Valentine’s Day? Open one of these four bottles.

If there is any day that calls for wine and roses, it’s Valentine’s Day. Or wine and chocolates, or wine and a gourmet dinner, or… you get the picture. Wine! We present to you four wine styles and four great wines to make your romantic evening a success.

Kara-Tara 2019 Pinot Noir, Western Cape, South Africa

We love Pinot Noir for special dinners. It is less bulky than say a Cabernet Sauvignon and has nuanced flavors that can pair well with salmon or lighter meat entrees. This Pinot Noir from South Africa comes with a twist. The grapes are sourced from three vineyards in the Western Cape, including Elgin. The vines are dry farmed (no irrigation) and 20% of the wine was whole-bunch fermented. We like that process (where the grape clusters aren’t destemmed) as it gives more complexity.

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In the glass, the wine is a pale ruby. On the nose, there are earthy aromas. When I first had this wine a year ago I had to check the label. It is so unique I had to make sure I was sipping Pinot Noir. On the palate strawberry and cherry components are evident along with earthiness and tea leaf. The attention-grabber is the chord of peppery spice, which I’ve never had in a Pinot Noir before but which is typical of Elgin. SRP $21.99.

Tinto Negro 2017 Limestone Block Malbec, Tunuyan-Mendoza

Soft, juicy and wonderful, Malbec is almost a no-brainer when it comes to selecting a wine loved by all. This Argentinian Malbec from the famed Mendoza region pushes all the right buttons. The vines come from an elevation of 4,000 feet at the foot of the Andes. The soil has rocky patches and a subsoil of round rocks, which give the wine a unique character.

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In the glass, this is a purple of medium depth with a light rim variation. On the nose, there are wafts of jamminess. Sipping provides the mineral flavors imparted by limestone, plus delicious red fruit and sweet notes of oak. This is a dry wine with floral accents provided by a dash of Cabernet Franc in the mix. An all-around winner at $21.99.

Boekenhoutskloof 2019 The Chocolate Block, Swartland, South Africa

A great pick for your romantic meal is a Bordeaux-style blend (usually Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cab Franc) or a Rhone blend (Syrah and Grenache). The Chocolate Block has a special place in our hearts. We first tasted it while on safari in South Africa at a private camp near Kruger National Park. Being surrounded by wild animals always makes the wine taste better!

This wine leads with Syrah (71%) and Grenache (11%) but isn’t a true Rhone-style blend as it includes Cabernet Sauvignon. Cinsault and Viognier are also in the mix. Viognier is a white wine, but some amounts are sometimes added to Rhone wines for the aromatics.

The wine is deep garnet in color. This is a big wine both in terms of alcohol (14.5%) and tannins. It opens with flavors of plums and cocoa. Included in the spectrum of flavors are oak, dried herbs, and smoke. The flavors are intense but focused with layered elegance and a nice long finish. Of our four recommendations, this has the biggest body, and so would pair perfectly with a juicy steak. This safari-tested wine has an SRP of $37.99.

Borgo Scopeto 2018 Chianti Classico

For an outstanding dinner partner, all you really need to know is the Black Rooster. That is the symbol of Chianti Classico wines, crafted primarily from Sangiovese in the historic heart of the Chianti region. It is a wine that pairs perfectly with your pasta and Italian entrée. We paired this wine with Eggplant Parmigiana and Tortellini di Torino from a local Italian restaurant.  

The wine has intense flavors of cooked cherry with ample vanilla notes. Oak highlights the dry and elegant finish. There is plenty of fruit here and a smooth body. Chianti Classico is one of our “go-to” wines and this one is eminently pleasing. SRP is $20.99.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Blanc Or Noir: German Wines To Delight

The wines of Germany aren’t limited to Riesling. We enjoyed a pair of Pinots certain to please.

It may be surprising to learn that Germany is a top-producing Pinot country. Pinot Noir, also known there as Spätburgunder, is the most widely produced red wine in Germany. In fact, Germany only trails France and the US in production of Pinot Noir. We’ve found Spätburgunder to be rich and delicious with high-quality bottles more affordable than you would expect.

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Pinot Blanc tends to float under the radar with Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Noir getting most of the spotlight. Germany loves Pinot Blanc, however, and is the world’s largest producer of this wine. The German name for the grape is Weissburgunder.

We opened a couple of bottles over the holidays to learn more about these wines so popular in Germany.

Selbach Oster 2017 Pinot Blanc, Mosel – The Selbach family has owned vineyards in Germany’s Mosel region since 1661. The estate includes old, ungrafted vines on south-facing slopes. The soil is mineral-rich rocky, slate soil that retains the heat. This golden-colored wine is medium-bodied with mineral notes, and comforting lemon and apple notes. This is a perfect wine for Chardonnay drinkers wishing to explore other options. The low percentage of alcohol means this is food-friendly, especially with fish dishes. Price is about $20.

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Weingut Burg Ravensburg 2017 Sulzfeld Pinot Noir, Baden – The name translates to Ravensburg Castle Winery and it is a member of the Association of German Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), which brings together the best wine producers in Germany. This German Pinot Noir wine has wonderful roasted aromas with delicious components of cherry, black currant and plums. It has more of an earthy characteristic than previous Spätburgunder we’ve tried and it’s quite lovely. The ABV is also at the lower end of the scale at 12.5%, meaning this is a versatile wine that can pair with pork and light meat entrees or with salmon or other fish dishes. At about $22, this is a great buy.

This pair of wines can match beautifully with your next meal. Be adventurous and uncork a bottle of German Pinot.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Utopia Vineyards Crafting Heavenly Pinot in Oregon’s Ribbon Ridge AVA

Ribbon Ridge is the smallest Oregon wine-growing region, but its reputation for great Pinot is boundless.

Horse Pasture To Pinot Paradise

“Utopia means trying to achieve perfection,” says winery founder, owner, and winemaker Dan Warnshuis. “What else would you aim for?” That’s what Warnshuis has been doing since Utopia Vineyard and Winery’s first commercial vintage in 2006. It is a family-owned producer of small-lot, premium wines specializing in world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The estate is located in what many wine lovers certainly consider utopia – the Ribbon Ridge AVA in Northern Willamette Valley, Oregon, known for its high-quality wines. Ribbon Ridge is a six-mile ridge in the Chehalem Mountains region, located about 20 miles southwest of Portland and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean.

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Warnshuis’ route to winery ownership is a circuitous one. After growing up in California’s San Joaquin Valley, he attended Michigan State on a full scholarship for swimming. After graduating he relocated to Silicon Valley to begin a successful career in the technology sector. It was living in wine country that changed the trajectory of his life. He began as a collector, amassing thousands of bottles. Deciding to look at wine from a business perspective, he dreamed of creating his own wine label.

What was a horse pasture became Utopia Vineyard in 2002. “I knocked on the owner’s door and he sold it to me,” said Warnshuis. “It wasn’t on the market at all…[but] this place checked all my boxes.” After the soil tests confirmed the plot’s potential and the serendipitous sale went through, Utopia Estate Vineyard was born.

The soil is indeed special. The 18.9 acres of southeast-facing slopes have marine sedimentary soil. The region was a seacoast some 50 million years ago and, as Warnshuis puts it, it’s like a strip of coastline got left behind. The finely textured soil provides excellent drainage and conditions, including ample moisture from the Pacific Ocean, and results in grapes with exceptional complexity. As the vines struggle to get nutrients, they gain concentrated flavors and spice and floral accents.

Diversity Works In The Vineyard Too

Clonal diversity is another key to the wine that is capturing awards and the hearts of Pinot Noir aficionados. After three major plantings in 2002, 2005, and 2010, the vineyard today is comprised of 12 different Pinot Noir clones and three low-yielding Dijon Chardonnay clones. In addition to Dijon 115, 667, and 777, Pommard, Wadensville, and Swan Pinot Noir clones, five different Heirloom clones are part of the plantings.

Warnshuis personally oversees the management of the vineyard, the harvesting, and the winemaking process. Utopia is 100% dry-farmed and the fruit is always painstakingly harvested by hand using only small snip tools to pick one bunch at a time. The notoriously finicky Pinot Noir grapes arrive at the winery in less than an hour and are placed in temperature-controlled storage until ready for processing.

Utopia is known for high-quality wines and a large percentage of its output is sold to restaurants. The annual production is 2,500 to 3,000 cases, all done onsite. The winery makes a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Rosé, and a Pinot Noir Blanc each year, but is best known for its four estate Pinot Noirs, each created with a distinct blend of vineyard clones.

Estate Pinot Noir Excellence

The Estate Pinot Noir ($48) is a blend of 12 different clones, something that sets it apart from most other Pinot Noirs. In many Oregon vineyards, two to three Pinot Noir clones are the norm. To sip it is to experience the breadth of the vineyard in its bright cherry and berry flavors, perfumed bouquet, and outstanding balance.

Paradise ($65) is a reserve estate Pinot made from the best barrels from the three best blocks in the vineyard. Grapes are whole-cluster pressed, adding texture and character to the wine. This has a dark cherry profile with plum and savory notes and a dash of vanilla. The current vintage is 2018, but we sipped the 2016 at the winery tasting room and it was divine. Wines are available at the tasting room or online and past vintages are available, including the 2016 (for $75).

The Clone 777 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ($65) is a single clonal bottling of the Dijon 777 clone, one of the most important clones in the Utopia vineyard. It is savory with spice and floral notes and its structure lends itself to extended aging.

Visitors to Utopia (or online purchasers) get to experience Eden firsthand. Eden Estate Reserve Pinot Noir ($100) is the pinnacle of Utopia winemaking, crafted from the 100% Pommard clone, the building block for many of Burgundy’s Grande Cru Classe wines. This is a bold power Pinot that is 100% Pommard, 100% whole cluster, and 100% new Burgundian oak. We tasted the 2015, a complex wine with layers that open up as you savor it: black cherry, oak, vanilla, and spice float over notes of leather.

The Utopia tasting room is located 30 minutes outside Portland and has a daily tasting flight hosted by Warnshuis. It offers a sweeping view of the vineyard as well as outdoor games like bocce. There are comfortable Adirondack chairs crafted out of wine barrels if you choose to simply soak in the surroundings and enjoy your wine.

Umpqua Valley A Surprising Find In Oregon Wine Country

The first of our two-part look at Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, a region ripe with innovation and diverse grape varieties.

Oregon wine continues to grow in popularity and reputation. The state has 21 AVAs and contributes more than $7 billion annually to the Oregon economy. Much of the buzz focuses on Willamette Valley and its Pinot Noir, but further south in Umpqua Valley, there is a world of quality wine unknown to most wine lovers.

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The Umpqua Valley sits between the Cascades to the east and the Coastal Range to the west. It stretches 65 miles from north to south and is 25 miles wide and is nestled between Willamette Valley to the north and Rogue Valley to the South.

Its wine history dates back to the 1880s, when German immigrants established the first vineyard and winery, producing an estimated 22,000 gallons of wine. The region has quite a few firsts. Between 1959 and 1961, Richard Sommer, a winemaking pioneer in the Umpqua Valley planted 36 acres of vinifera grapes, including Oregon’s first Pinot Noir, despite warnings from his U.C. Davis educators that grapes will not grow in Oregon.

The Umpqua Valley AVA was founded in 1984 and innovation continued. In 1984, Abacela Winery planted the first Tempranillo in the Northwest. In 2001 the winery planted the first Albariño vines in the Northwest. In 2003-2005, Steve Reustle of Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards planted and produced the first commercial Grüner Veltliner.

The region historically was home to vineyard plots of five to 30 acres. Today larger vineyards from 100 to 200 acres are planted. The number of grape varieties has expanded to include Syrah, Tempranillo, and Grenache. In fact, the 30 family-owned wineries of Umpqua Valley grow 40 different wine varieties.

We recently had a chance to tour Umpqua Valley during the Wine Media Conference in an excursion hosted by the Umpqua Valley Winegrowers Association. Here’s a look at five impressive Umpqua Valley wineries and we’ll continue with winery reports in our second part.

Meadows Estate Winery - 175 Hogan Road, Oakland, Oregon

Formerly MarshAnne Landing, this winery was purchased by Dexter and Marilyn Meadows in 2019. Meadows Estate Winery is 17 acres of deep, cobbled volcanic soil and features 10 varieties. We tried the first two wines that are “their own,” the 2017 White Grenache and the 2017 Syrah Rosé. The focus is on Rhone and Bordeaux varieties. Be sure to check out the Cote du Umpqua, a Rhone-style blend of 50-50 Grenache and Syrah.

Their goal is to produce “out of this world” wines. With a stylish tasting room that features a deck with scenic views and beautiful estate wines, Meadows Estate Winery is ready for liftoff.

Brandborg Vineyard and Winery - 345 First Street, Elkton, Oregon

Brandborg Vineyard and Winery are located in Elkton, the coolest and most maritime climate in the Umpqua Valley. I was familiar with their elegant Pinot Noir but got my introduction to their Alsace-style white wines during my visit. With just a touch of sweetness, their Bradley Vineyard Riesling is one of the top sellers in Oregon. The 2015 Bradley Vineyard Gewürztraminer is an award-winner with citrus and green apple notes.

The array of 11 different Pinot Noir includes the 2014 Ferris Wheel Pinot Noir, limited to 465 cases and supple with blackberry, spice, and cherry notes.  The Ferris Wheel Vineyard is the most westerly in Umpqua Valley and stands at 1,000 feet and just 30 miles from the ocean. For a treat, try the 2018 2018 Fleur de Lis (White) Pinot Noir.

Bradley Vineyards and River’s Edge Winery - 1395 River Drive, Elkton, Oregon

We tasted wine from these outstanding wineries at River’s Edge. Bradley Vineyards was founded by John and Richard Bradley and sold almost all of the crops to wineries around Oregon. When friends opened the River’s Edge Winery, it provided an opportunity to begin producing a small amount of wine under the Bradley Vineyard label.

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Our tasting began with the River’s Edge 2019 Aligoté. There’s not much of this white grape to be found in the US market. It’s light and crisp with a delicious minerality. In a bottle with a distinctive piece of art, the River’s Edge Cascade is a Pinot Noir pet nat wine with just the right amount of bubbles and a nice unfiltered texture.

The 35th Leaf Edition (it’s their 35 harvest) 2018 Skin Contact Gewürztraminer from Bradley takes Gewürz and stands it on its ear. The unique orange color comes from skin contact during primary fermentation. The bouquet is a blast of roses, which gives way to tree-fruit and spicy flavors. Their 2018 My Bon Pinot Noir uses Pommard and Wadenswil clones. It’s a classic beauty.

Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards - 960 Cal Henry Road, Roseburg, Oregon

Our lunch stop was at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards and, if I had my way, I would still be at the winery! Owner and winemaker Stephen Reustle has carved an impressive wine estate in the shadow of Tyee Mountain. There are 14 grape varieties planted among the 40 acres of vines. The complex includes a winery and tasting cave as well as an observation deck and amphitheater.

Inside the wine cave, we were treated to a gourmet meal with a salmon entrée. In 2005, Reustle became the first winery in the US to commercially produce Grüner Veltliner. The 2018 Grüner has a big mouthfeel and round mineral flavors, perfect for our fish dish. We closed with a cheese course that featured the 2019 Syrah. Their 2012 Syrah took the title of Best Syrah in the World in the 6 Nations Wine Challenge. It’s a savory wine with blackberry and cocoa notes.

There is indeed a Prayer Rock, a large boulder at the top of a south-facing slope that served as a meeting place for Stephen and his son. Reustle Prayer Rock is an answer to a wine lover’s prayer.

More fun in Umpqua Valley in the second part of our story, coming soon.

Ziereisen 2016 Talrain Spätburgunder, Baden

Pork and Pinot – it’s a beautiful thing, especially with a gourmet-prepared smoked pork shoulder.

A German Surprise

When we arrived at our friend’s house, our hosts were befuddled. I announced that I had brought a bottle of Spätburgunder, and Tony and Amy exchanged puzzled glances.

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They aren’t alone. Even though Spätburgunder is Germany’s most popular red wine, most people haven’t heard of it. They haven’t heard of it, that is until you tell them that Spätburgunder is German for Pinot Noir.

Spätburgunder is a delicious secret to most people. While the prices of Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Carneros, and Russian River Valley continue to escalate, German Pinot Noir represents a marvelous value. I’ve also found the quality to be excellent.

The True Star

While the 2016 Talrain Spätburgunder is indeed newsworthy, the true star of the evening was the smoked pork shoulder prepared by Tony. Tony, who teaches physics at a local university, has developed his own scrumptious technique for smoking pork.

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The secret is in the sous vide technique. The meat is vacuum-sealed in plastic and then placed in a water bath where it is cooked with a low-temperature immersion circulator cooker. This allows precise control over the temperature.

It’s a two-part process with the final cooking being done in a smoker to give the meat a nice “bark” and the smokiness we all crave. When the meat came out of the smoker (and after a brief rest) the meat fell off the bone – ready for the hungry guests.

The Pairing

While Amy and Tony took care of the many details of the dinner, I focused on the critical task of uncorking the Spätburgunder and pouring!

Talrain is a vineyard located on the lower hills of the Black Forest in Baden. It is layered with limestone and iron-rich clay with an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet.

Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and 30% of the grapes are pressed whole-cluster. The ABV is a low 12%, meaning it won’t overpower your meal. This is a light and fresh wine with good acidity and aromas of forest and flowers. On the palate, there is wild strawberry and spice with juicy mineral notes. It’s an elegant wine.

In case you are wondering about the sauce, it started with a base of sweet sauce which was precisely attuned with hot sauce, vinegar, and some mustard. The meal was over the moon good.

WIYG – A Cavalcade Of Wine Reviews

WIYG? That’s a question we are often asked. Here’s a look at what's in our glass.

What the heck is a cavalcade and what’s it doing in my wine blog? Well, if you must know, it is defined as a formal procession of people walking, on horseback, or riding in vehicles. Many years ago there was a variety TV show called Jackie Gleason’s Cavalcade of Stars. I never saw the show and my introduction is veering into the weeds quickly, so I’ll simply say that I’m proud to present a cavalcade of wine so that I can catch up on wines that we’ve tasted but haven’t yet been reviewed. So, ta da, here is the cavalcade…

Nadia 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard

Although we carefully cellar our wine, when you dip back 10 or more years, the quality can be hit or miss. With Nadia, it was a big hit. We love Napa Valley, but it is nice to explore Cabernet Sauvignon from other regions.

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We were rewarded with a rich, rich, body. The wine has lovely notes of caramel and plum. This is a single vineyard Cab from Santa Barbera County, a wonderful – and less explored – part of California wine country.

2007 Long Shadows Wineries Syrah Sequel, Columbia Valley

This is a wine from one of the coolest wineries around: Long Shadows. Long Shadows pairs international winemakers with the fantastic vineyards of Washington State. The winemaker of Sequel Syrah is John Duval, the former winemaker for Penfolds Grange in Australia.

We purchased two bottles, drinking one in 2013 and the last seven years later. Alas, the wine didn’t hold up. The wine is still broodingly dark, but the fruit has all but disappeared with some olive notes and faint blueberry left. Time to get a new vintage.

Winemaker Selection 2018 Pinot Noir, Hawkes Bay

This wine goes into the “why not” category. I picked this up for less than $8 at the Lidl grocery store. Hawkes Bay is perhaps New Zealand’s best known region for red wine. We weren’t expecting much based on the price, but were pleasantly surprised.

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The Winemaker Selection isn’t complex, but is varietally correct and quite satisfying. Notes of smoke and raspberry carry this medium-light bodied wine. Low price but super high QPR (quality price ratio).

Gran Corte 2015 Red Blend, Valle de Colchagua

This wine comes from the southern reach of Chile and sounded like a winner with a promising blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, and Syrah. Gran Corte, in Spanish, designates an assemblage of high quality wines. This wine weighs in at 15% ABV and the bottle has a bit of heft too.

This is another wine from Lidl and I thought I’d opt for quality by spending a few dollars more. This cost about $13. However, it was a bust. The wine was grapey, which is a funny thing to say about a product that is entirely made of grapes. It had no refined flavors – strictly one dimensional with weak bleary flavors.

Beaux Frères 2014 The Upper Terrace 2014 Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge

The Upper Terrace rocked it from first drop to last. The wine comes from the uber-cool Ribbon Ridge AVA, which is part of the beloved Willamette Valley AVA in Oregon. The wine is unfiltered, unfined and unparalleled. On the nose there are sour cherries. On the tongue there are earthy plum notes and black tea leaves. It has a divine, lush texture and finished with a touch of spice.

Beaux Frères was one of the earliest wineries in Oregon, founded in 1986 by Michael G. Etzel, and brother-in-law (Beaux Frères in French) wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr.

El Viejo del Valle 2019 Chardonnay, Central Valley

El Viejo del Valle means Old Man of the Valley. This Chilean Chardonnay, with 1950s-style Chilean street graffiti on the label, was a sub -$10 buy on sale at Great Grapes in Cary. The wine, imported by the French company Boutinot, is unoaked with pure notes of apple and pear. It is lively with a crisp finish. Fruit for this 2019 vintage comes from the Central Valley and an old vines vineyard beneath a volcano.

Chilean wines represent great value. Many of the white grapes take on different flavor expressions in the unique Chilean climate.

Tenet 2014 The Pundit Syrah, Columbia Valley

With all the political fireworks, we’ve just about had our fill of pundits – except when it comes to The Pundit, a Syrah from Washington’s Columbia Valley. It’s a blend of 88% Syrah, 6% Grenache, 4% Mourvedre,  and 2% Viognier.

We paired it with Beef Bourguignon and the red cherry, blackberry and earth undertones of the wine melded beautifully with the dish. The label art is captivating, so much so you’ll feel you’re being watched. It explodes with flavor and is refined by aging in French oak and concrete. A true beauty.

Cavalcade out!