Fall Into These Superb Napa Reds From Hestan Vineyards

This trio of Napa reds offers power and grace just right for the fall season.

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Hestan Vineyards is a solar-powered estate nestled in Napa Valley’s Gordon Valley region. Established in 1996 by Helen and Stanley Cheng, the property was once a working cattle ranch. Today, it’s home to organically farmed vineyards and gardens, reflecting the Chengs’ enduring appreciation for Napa’s landscape and their commitment to sustainability. Stanley, known for pioneering hard-anodized cookware and founding Hestan Culinary, a brand known for chef-driven kitchen appliances, brings a thoughtful precision to the estate’s winemaking philosophy.

We had the opportunity to taste three magnificent reds from Hestan’s fall release: the 2021 Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 Stephanie Malbec, and 2021 Stephanie Prorietary Red Wine.

The Stephanie Proprietary Red Wine is a bold yet polished blend of 39% Petit Verdot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, and smaller amounts of Merlot and Cab Franc. The wine is aged 50/50 in new and neutral French oak. There are silky black cherry notes laced with minerality and floral accents. Limited to 486 cases, this small batch wine retails for $75.

We paired the superb 2021 Napa Valley Malbec from Stephanie with a pan-fried pork chop and a garlic wine reduction sauce. Home-made French fries and fire-roasted corn rounded out the dish. This sensational Malbec boasts a rich, luxurious mouthfeel with flavors of black fruit, blueberries, cassis, and cocoa. The finish is long and delicious.

I brined the chops for an hour in sea salt, herbs de Provence, and a pinch of brown sugar. The seasoning was smoked paprika, thyme, and rosemary from the garden, plus salt and pepper.

The robust seasoning of the juicy chops paired wonderfully with the Stephanie Malbec. We highly recommend this exceptional wine. SRP is only $55.

The Stephanie wines are named for Stanley and Helen’s only daughter. The bottle features a golden silkscreened harp in a nod to Stephanie’s musical talents. 

This line is crafted by acclaimed winemaker Jeff Gaffner. He is known for his work with Bordeaux varieties, producing elegant and refined wines. Jeff started at Chateau St. Jean, working with legendary winemaker Richard Arrowood to produce the winery’s 1996 Cinq Cepages, saluted as Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator Magazine. We only wish these wines were available in magnum format.

Thomas Brown is the winemaker behind the renowned Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon. He is one of Napa Valley’s most exciting winemakers with an impressive array of accolades. Among his accomplishments are unprecedented double 100-point scores from the Wine Advocate’s Robert Parker. Thomas joined the Hestan team in 2009. 

The 2021 Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon appears destined for greatness as well. The wine is crafted for intensity as well as long-term aging. Made with 100% Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a big wine that is enjoyable now, but can age gracefully for 10 years and beyond. 

On the nose, there is the aroma of cassis and crushed herbs. Robust dark plum, black cherry, and cedar flavors anchor the palate. The tannins are structured with minerality and vibrant acidity, providing complexity. The finish is long and gripping.

There were 1,267 cases produced, and the wine is aged in 75% new French oak. This latest vintage of Meyer Cabernet is priced at $90.

These selections from Hestan’s fall release reflect precision, depth, and a clear sense of place. From the expressive Meyer Cabernet to the graceful Stephanie reds, each bottle speaks to the estate’s commitment to stewardship of the land and the talent behind its label. These are wines to enjoy now, and to revisit as they evolve.

Judgment of Paris Anniversary Tasting Highlights French and California Wines

We offer our version of the historic Judgment of Paris tasting in which California wines earned their place on the world stage.

The shockwaves on May 24, 1976, started in Paris and rippled around the world. On that day in a blind tasting, French wine experts judged red and white wines from California superior to first-growth and other renowned bottlings from Burgundy and Bordeaux. We set out to stage our own event on the 48th anniversary of the original tasting.

There were two blind tastings in what has become known as the Judgment of Paris, one of top-quality Chardonnay and the other of red wines. Organized as a publicity stunt by British wine merchant Steve Spurrier, many expected a bad showing by the US wines to accelerate the downfall of American vineyards, instead a Napa Valley wine rated best in both categories.

California long had a reputation for unremarkable wines, sometimes marketed with misleading labels like Burgundy, Chablis, or French Colombard. The Judgment of Paris was the shot heard ‘round the world. In an instant, California wine producers learned they could compete with the well-established French wineries. Winemakers across the globe realized their potential as well.

My good friend Arthur Barham (of Merlot2MuscadineMerlot2Muscadine) was inspired after watching Bottle Shock, the 2008 movie that dramatized the Judgment of Paris tasting from the perspective of Bo Barrett of Napa’s Chateau Montelena. We spoke and agreed a JOP anniversary dinner would be a marvelous opportunity for our first full-fledged collaboration.

We decided on a smaller group of four couples (compared to some of our other soirees) and the focus would be a celebration of French and American wine with gourmet food pairings. The event would be held at Arthur and Mary’s house. Each course would feature a California and French wine.

Oh, yes. To kick the event off in style, we would feature sabrage, the opening of sparkling wine with a saber. It was Arthur’s brainstorm to do a double sabrage with each of us opening a bottle -- one French, one American -- simultaneously. It could either be a spectacular prelude to dinner or an embarrassing “fail” circulated on social media. You can see the results here:

We decided to dig deep into our cellars to pick our French and American wines.  The double sabrage featured Korbel Brut (US) versus Bourgeois-Boulonnaise Champagne Premier Cru Tradition Brut. Both are made with the méthode champenoise. The Premier Cru Champagne is made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, while the Korbel has Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Colombard, and Pinot Noir.

The appetizers, courtesy of Sanjay and Michelle, were Chicken Reshmi Kabab, Paneer Tikka, and Gobi Manchurian (deep-fried marinated fried cauliflower florets, onions, chili, and soy sauce). These paired well with the bubbles and the latter was a spot-on match with the next two wines. On the French side, we served an old favorite, the Château Paradis La Grande Terre Côteaux Aix en Provence Rosé 2023. For the American side, we offered the Curran 2022 Grenache Gris from Santa Barbera. This was my first taste of the Curran and I loved the pale rose quartz color and white raspberry flavor.

A most unique salad, La Salade Mentonnaise, was served next. Menton is the Lemon Capital of France and this salad featured plenty of citrus with fennel, orange, artichoke, pine nuts, lemon zest, and orange vinaigrette. Prepared by Amy and Tony, this was a light and playful pairing with the 2020 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du- Pape Blanc and the Chateau Montelena 2021 Chardonnay. Chateau Montelena was an original participant in the Judgment of Paris and bested the French opposition.

Petite Steak Bites with Béarnaise Sauce, baked polenta & roasted asparagus was the featured entree. We paired this (prepared by yours truly) with a beautiful Chateau Beau-Site Saint Estephe 2016 and a 2015 Pursuit Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Both wines feature Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, although the Bordeaux has 60% Cab and the Pursuit has 81%. Each wine was decanted for two hours.

The red wine lovers had been waiting for this dish, steak and two great red wines! I sipped the Bordeaux first, and the Beau-Site (named because its vineyards are on one of the Medoc’s highest points) began with rich flavors of blackberries, plums, and leather. The Pursuit offers more of a new world character, with bold waves of black cherry, plums, and baking spices predominating along with subtle cigar box notes.

As we continued sipping the red wine and revisiting the others, we compared notes and debated the merits of each wine. Meanwhile, Arthur was preparing dessert: a mouthwatering Grilled Fruit Kabob Medley with Chantilly Cream.

Early on Arthur and I had discussed what wines to serve with the final course. I suggested that after having eight wines, we should go with just one dessert wine (from anywhere). After all, the original Judgment of Paris wasn’t a dessert wine contest.

The final wine was the 2019 Paxxito from Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia. This is one of Arthur’s favorite dessert wines and I was bowled over by it during a visit to the winery earlier this month. It was a palatial ending to a memorable wine dinner.

Who won the judgment this year? The Americans seemed to hold a slight edge
but with many crossovers. One guest who spends every summer in Europe was a strident supporter of France. How fortunate we can freely enjoy wines from both countries.

Thanks to all who attended and to compadre Arthur for this great collaboration.

Hestan Wines Highlight Festive Spring Dinner

We celebrate Spring with four premium wines.

“Spring Into Fun” was the theme of our recent wine dinner, which featured wines from Hestan Vineyards paired with gourmet small plates. Hestan is a picturesque Napa estate named for owners Helen and Stanley Cheng whose passion for fine wine and love for Napa Valley's charm led them to purchase the former cattle ranch in 1996. Stanley pioneered hard-anodized cookware in the 1970s, so we saluted this wine with a culinary tour de force. 

The evening began with some Premier Cru Champagne with panko-coated cauliflower florets and chimichurri two ways. Our daughter Rachel provided the amuse-bouche as well as the dessert. Delicious!

Prosciutto-wrapped asparagus spears in puff pastry appetizer were paired with the 2022 Hestan Sauvignon Blanc. This complex wine gets six months of aging in stainless steel and neutral oak. It has aromas of white blossoms and flavors of pear, honeysuckle, and lemon.

The 2020 Hestan Chardonnay comes from the San Francisco AVA. Appropriately enough our next dish was accompanied by homemade sourdough bread made with a starter from San Francisco. The garden salad was dressed with tarragon vinaigrette and the bread was served with truffle oil. This Chardonnay has ample oak and offers notes of apricot, vanilla, and toast.

The stunning 2019 Vincent Christopher Pinot Noir was our next wine offering. It is a single-vineyard wine from Sonoma Coast made with Dijon clones 113 and 828. The label was created for the Hestan line of Pinot Noir and is named for the Hestans’ two sons. Our dish was served with seared snapper and fruit salsa made with apple, strawberry,
and basil. We tip our hats to winemaker Jeff Gaffner for creating a beautiful mélange of cranberry, black cherry, cedar, and herbal tones. I would have enjoyed sipping this all night.

The 2019 Hestan Grenache, served with grilled skirt steak and Mojo sauce, surprised our guests. They didn't expect the intensity and rich flavors. The wine is made with whole-cluster fermentation and is aged 15 months in neutral oak.  It was an ideal match with the wine displaying pure raspberry flavors, plum, and herbal notes. 

Hestan Vineyards delivered a premium wine experience that delighted our dinner party guests.

Marqués de Cáceres Wines, Spanish Cuisine Highlight Dîner en Blanc

Wines from Rioja and Rueda featured at fashionable dinner.

Whenever I receive a group of wines to review, we usually gather friends and hold a wine dinner. That was the case with wines we received from the well-known Spanish winery Marqués de Cáceres. My wife, the Green Dragon, decided to add a twist, “We’re going to make this a dinner in white!”

Dîner en Blanc is a worldwide event spanning six continents in which people have a meal dressed in white in a temporary dining setup in a public space. Diners are required to provide their own food, tables, chairs, and tablecloths. So, I guess we properly should have called our event  Dîner en Blanc-ish, because we certainly weren’t going to ask our guests to sit outside in January.

This sent me on a quest for things not normally in my wardrobe, like white shoes, white pants, and a white belt. I’m sure our guests faced a similar sartorial dilemma.

Our wine lineup included a Cava, two whites from the Rueda region, and a rosé and two reds from Rioja. Guests at the dinner were asked to choose a wine and prepare a small plate to pair with it.

Marqués de Cáceres was founded by Enrique Forner in 1970. He was exiled to France during the Spanish Civil War and founded a wine business in the Rhône and Loire valleys. He later purchased two chateaux grand cru classé in Bordeaux.

Under the guidance of daughter Christina Forner, who took over the winery operation in 2007, the winery expanded into Rueda and later expanded into Ribera del Duero. Today, the wines can be found in 120 countries, and 50% of the production is exported.

As the crowd gathered and oohed and aahed over the white outfits and the stunning table decorations, we popped open the Marqués de Cáceres Brut Cava. Cava is one of my favorite sparkling wines because it is made in the traditional method, just like champagne. The energetic bubbles and creamy froth added to the festive mood as we munched on delicious Belgian endive and radicchio stuffed with either brie cheese, walnuts, and drizzled honey, or whipped feta scattered with capers and red pepper flakes. Thanks to Ronda and Joe, who traveled from Savannah to attend, for this dish.

The next course featured grilled shrimp atop a citrus salad of naval and blood oranges, shallots, olives, thinly sliced fennel, and red onion. This provided an ideal pairing for the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Rueda. Rueda is crafting some of the most interesting white wines in Spain. The rocky soil forces the grapevine roots deep below, digging through sandy, stony soil for water and nutrients. This results in delicious minerality in Rueda wines.

The Sauvignon Blanc is rich and herbaceous with notes of peach and pear. If you are a Sauvignon Blanc fan, give it a try. Alison created this tasty salad.

Verdejo is by far the most planted variety in Rueda. The 2022 vintage we sampled was youthful and tasty with lime and mineral notes with a slight floral accent. The grapes are harvested at night to preserve the fresh flavors. Our next dish, Salmorejo, is a traditional chilled soup made with tomato and bread and has a thick texture. Our dish was topped with chopped egg and Serrano ham. The acidity and refreshing flavor of the Verdejo were perfect to cut through the creaminess of the soup. Gracias to the Green Dragon for this dish.

Expect the unexpected with my good friend Arthur Barham of Merlot 2 Muscadine and his wife Mary. They transported us to the Spanish seaside with a show-stopping paella of saffron-infused rice cooked with chicken, chorizo, and shrimp. The dish was presented in individual cast iron pans. This popular Spanish dish was matched with the 2022 Rioja rosé. The wine is a delicate pale coral color with intense red berry flavors and great acidity. This was a truly inspired pairing.

As Rueda is known for its white wines, Rioja is recognized around the world for its red wines. The region is a DOCa, the highest quality category in Spanish wine regulation. The harvesting of wine in the area dates back to the time of the Phoenicians. The preeminent grape is Tempranillo with Garnacha a distant second.

The 2019 Rioja Crianza is mostly Tempranillo with small amounts of Garnacha and Graciano. It is aged for 12 months in oak barrels and another year in the bottle. I was pleasantly surprised by its silky texture. It was a grand match with the Ibondigas en Salsa de Almendras, tender pork meatballs poached in a creamy almond sauce accompanied by an assortment of vegetables. Diane and John made this masterpiece that melts in your mouth.

The 2017 Rioja Reserva is a bold wine made only in the best vintages from vines between 45 and 50 years old. The wine is aged for 20 months with an additional two years of bottle aging. The result is a superior wine with solid tannins yet smooth ripe fruit flavors. This wine required something bold, and Green Dragon served up smoky lamb chops with Patatas Bravas (grilled potatoes with a spicy sauce). The strong flavors of the lamb were balanced nicely by this big Spanish red.

Thanks to all our friends for making this a truly fantastic event!

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Ca’ Del Lago 2021 Lugana

With our daughter, a very accomplished vegan chef, in town. Her creation needed a special bottle, so we reached for a white wine from Lugana in Italy. The Lugana region is in the northern part of the country, on the south shore of Lake Garda and near the Dolomite Mountains.

The grape is Turbiana, thought at one time to be Trebbiano or a clone of Verdicchio. Testing has since proven it is it’s own distinct variety (although closely related to Verdicchio). The cooling winds from the Dolomites and the moderating effect of the lake allow the grapes to develop wonderful structure. The mineral-rich soils, mixed with clay, help impart a unique flavor profile.

Chef Rachel whipped up a plant-based meal that featured Caldo Verde, a Portuguese potato soup with greens and (vegan) sausage. In addition o a salad with lemon vinaigrette dressing, we enjoyed Bolhinos de Arroz, which are herbed rice cakes.

The wine has a nice structure, so much so that it might appeal to those normally favoring red wine. Tropical notes of pineapple, mandarin orange, and stone fruit give a pleasing mouthful of flavor. The fruit and acid are in good balance – no jarring acidity here, just a smooth ride. A thread of minerality gives a refreshing lift to the finish.

Subtle flavors of the vegan cuisine were a nice match for the Lugana. The 2021 Ca’ del Lago Lugana was a steal for $12.99 at Lidl. In fact, we enjoyed this wine so much I went back and purchased a couple more.

Lugana is a wine not widely distributed in the US. When you see it, don’t hesitate. Buy several and you’ll be pleased you did.

Texas Heritage Wines Deliver Distinctive Fall Flavors

In the 1970s, the wine industry in Texas made a profound shift. Rather than chasing popular grapes unsuited for the Texas soil and climate, they began planting “grapes that love our state and thrive in our culture and climate,” as Texas Heritage Winery puts it.

We had a chance to sample three wines from this outstanding Lone Star State winery and came away impressed.

Viognier is a Rhone grape that has found a welcome home in Texas. It is the most-produced white grape in the state. The 2022 Wildseed Farms Viognier is delicate and crisp with notes of lemon and honeysuckle. At 11.7% ABV, it is perfect for pairing with seafood or light dishes with aromatic herbs. It is priced at $30.

We paired the Viognier with a butternut squash bisque. The acidity of the wine cut through the creaminess of the soup for a delightful pairing.

The 2020 Gotneaux Creek Vineyard Syrah is the only Syrah produced by Texas Heritage. It spends 30 months in neutral oak. “We don’t oak a lot,” says co-founder Susan Johnson. “The grapes are great enough to speak for themselves. We let the true character of the grapes shine through.”

If you haven’t tried Texas Syrah, prepare yourself for a real surprise. This bottle is smooth and expressive. Some Syrah can be too big and brambly, but this is delicious with rich blueberry and plum notes. You get a nice dash of pepper on the long finish. SRP for this bottle is $42.

Alicante Bouschet is a large-cluster, thick-skinned grape that can be somewhat of a problem child. Thankfully, the 2019 vintage saw no difficulty in the vineyard and Texas Heritage produced this outstanding 2019 Estate Alicante Bouschet from the oldest part of their vineyard. It won Reserve Texas Class Champion at the 2022 Houston Rodeo Uncorked and Double Gold at the 2021 Harvest Terroir.

Alicante is a true tenterer, a rare grape that has red flesh and red skin. This is a full-bodied wine that needs at least 45 minutes in the decanter to help tame it. It is fruit-forward with an incredibly deep and dark ruby color. There are floral notes and lush black cherry and currant flavors. This is a perfect sipping wine.

We paired the reds with a wild boar and pasta entree and enjoyed a sunny and warm fall day on the patio. The Alicante Bouschet sells for $48. In fact, Texas Heritage specializes in producing really good wines at affordable prices. No bottle is more than $50.

Texas Heritage wines are available online via their website. It’s a perfect introduction to the noteworthy wines of Texas.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Nysa Wines Offer A Glimpse of Willamette Valley Greatness

Dundee Hills is the epicenter of Oregon Pinot Noir. Now we know why.

In Greek mythology, Nysa is a secret land full of lush fruit trees and vineyards where young Dionysus, the god of wine was raised. The forces emanating from Mount Nysa are said to be powerful. We found ourselves falling under the spell of three new wines from Nysa – actually from Nysa Vineyard, the Willamette Valley winery in the Dundee Hills.

The family-owned operation was begun in 1990 when owner and winemaker, Michael Mega purchased a parcel of orchards high with the goal of creating a world-class Pinot Noir. The goal creating wines of complexity, concentration, and balance while using minimalistic winemaking techniques and organic farming.

The grapes are grown at 600 to 720 feet elevation. Nysa case production is under 1,000, but that may soon change as wines will soon be available outside Oregon in shops across the US in such wine-loving states as California, Texas, New York, North and South Carolina, and Illinois.

We had the opportunity to taste the 2019 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the 2016 Pinot Noir, all from Dundee Hills. Dundee Hills is where Oregon Pinot Noir first gained its worldwide reputation.  Early pioneers such as David Lett of Eyrie, Dick Erath, and the Sokol Blossers planted many of Oregon’s first vineyards.

To taste the Chardonnay and 2016 Pinot, we planned a special dinner, an amazing meal with Duck Breast l'Orange entrée. Duck is a perfect pairing with Pinot Noir, whose fruity notes play perfectly with the rich dark meat. I wasn't sure about Chardonnay.

The Chardonnay uses grapes from the Nysa estate block of Wente clone vines. This wine went through malolactic fermentation and then spent 10 months in neutral French oak barrels. We discovered that this Willamette Valley Chard with beautiful tropical fruit notes and a taste of honey worked wonderfully with the duck, asparagus, and mushroom risotto.   

The 2016 Nysa is an amazing Pinot. It is a blend of different vineyard blocks throughout the estate. The grapes were fermented in small lot bins before aging in French oak (25% new). Light garnet in the glass with the perfect touch of acidity, delicate layers of red fruit, dry herbs, leather, and nuanced earth tones show through. This was an ideal pairing and just an exceptional wine. 

We got a look at the younger 2019  Nysa Pinot. On the palate, there are beautiful smooth red cherries a touch of baking spices, and a touch of minerality. Tasty now, we expect this vintage to rock after another two or three years of aging.

Nysa Pinot Noir ranges from $75 to $105, and Chardonnay starts at $65, all depending on the vintage.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Virginia Petit Wines Offer Glimpse Of Old Dominion Wine Excellence

Petit Verdot and Petit Manseng showcase Virginia’s award-winning winemaking.    

Four Hundred Years of Winegrowing History

Virginia may seem like an uncommon choice for wine lovers. Not if you’ve had a chance to taste its delicious wines that blend the subtlety of the Old World with the boldness of the new.

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The state boasts more than 5,000 acres of grapes and has a history that dates back to 1619 when the House of Burgesses passed a law requiring each household to plant 10 grape vines for the purpose of making wine.

Founding father Thomas Jefferson experimented with winemaking and in 1873 a Virginia wine was chosen as the Best Red Wine of All Nations at the Vienna World’s Fair. The wine industry struggled through Prohibition and world wars and in 1979 there were just six wineries in operation. Thankfully for us, wine in Virginia is thriving today.

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There are currently more than 300 wineries in Virginia and the quality is better than ever. We recently uncorked bottles from two award-winning Virginia wineries, Jefferson Vineyards, and Veritas Winery, in conjunction with a webinar by the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association.

Jefferson Vineyards 2021 Petit Manseng

The site of Jefferson Vineyards was owned by Thomas Jefferson and was later given to Italian viticulturist Filippo Mazzei who formed the Virginia Wine Company. Unfortunately, the vines were later trampled by the horses of a Hessian General during the American Revolution, ruining the labor of four years. In the 1980s vineyards were reestablished and in 1993 the business name was changed to Jefferson Vineyards. Jefferson is recognized for having one of the region’s most consistent records for producing quality wines.

We decided to taste the 2021 Jefferson Petite Manseng with Ricotta Gnudi with Quick Tomato Confit & Fresh Corn. This is a recipe created by Haidar Karoum specifically for Virginia Petit Manseng. I’m told by one of my Italian tennis buddies that the dish is pronounced like “naughty.” This was one of the very best culinary creations we’ve tasted in a while.

It was a perfect match for the Petit Manseng. The wine offers notes of smooth pineapple, white peaches, and honeysuckle. It blended nicely with the ricotta dumplings and cherry tomatoes. The Petite Manseng has no jarring acidity, just a gorgeous, luscious finish.

Veritas 2017 Petit Verdot

For the Veritas 2017 Petit Verdot, we prepared hearty Herb & Garlic Marinated Lamb Chops with Pine Nut Couscous and Broccoli Rabe. My first experience with a single varietal Petit Verdot was many years ago at Flying Fox, a Virginia winery with a family connection to Veritas winemaker Emily Pelton. Although you are more likely to encounter Petit Verdot as a blending ingredient in a Bordeaux-style wine, on its own it shines as a luscious wine.

A 20-year-old family business,  Veritas is on the leading edge of the Virginia wine industry. With over 50 acres in the Monticello wine region, it produces a complex portfolio of wines ranging from sparkling to beautifully balanced red wines.

The Veritas Petit Verdot exudes generous black fruit notes of currant and blackberry whilst smooth tannins and a touch of tobacco create a posh finish. This wine includes 15% Merlot and is aged in 50% new French oak for 16 months.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as part of an educational program.

Moon Mountain District Wines Sky High With Premium Quality

Moon Mountain District Dinner

Moon Mountain District crafting premium reds from mountainous perch in Sonoma County.

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Vino-Sphere Publisher

Ten years ago I tasted my first wine from Moon Mountain, buying five bottles from the Moon Mountain Vineyard winery. The luscious wine soon ran out and to make matters worse, I learned the winery was closing. My lingering fears were unfounded as Repris Wines purchased the property and continued and expand the reputation of the legendary vineyard and wine from this special slice of Sonoma continues to flow.

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The Moon Mountain District AVA, formed in 2013, is in a mountainous region in the very east of Sonoma County. It is made entirely of hillside vineyards, some incredibly remote, with iron-rich volcanic soil. A clear view of San Francisco 50 miles south is not uncommon.

Moon Mountain wines

Wines made there have been famed since the 1880s. Phil Coturri, vineyard manager and pioneer of organic and biodynamic winegrowing in California, explains the uniqueness this way, “The multiplicity of slopes, aspects, exposures, and elevations, combined with volcanic soils enlivened with organic matter and enhanced by complex cover crops creates flavors as unique as the terroir found in the Moon Mountain District --  of course, the attitude of the winegrower adds additional spice.”

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We recently celebrated these magnificent wines with the Red Side of the Moon: A Moon Mountain AVA Dinner, pairing six wines with tasty gourmet dishes. These are premium red wines and most have limited production. Although these are "big" wines, we were impressed with the richness and balance that translated to grace and power. We decanted each wine for at least an hour.

Kamen Cab, Lasseter Syrah and stew

Our group included wine writers Dathan and Jen of Triangle Around Town and Arthur and Mary Barham of Merlot2Muscadine as well as friends Robert and Linda. Each wine was served with a specially crafted dish.

For “lift-off” on our voyage to the Moon, we started with a sparkling Grüner Veltliner Sekt (more on that in a separate story) and the Reprise 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Heritage Clones. This was paired with Vadouvan Spiced Carrots & Radishes and a cheese selection. The unique French spices, a take on Indian masala, created a complex blend of smokiness and sweetness that worked wonderfully with both wines.

Moon Mountain diners

The Repris Cabernet uses the Moon Mountain Clone evolved in volcanic soil over four decades. It includes some of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in California and delivers a wine that delighted the group with aromas of dark fruit and sweet spices. This is a savory wine that immediately opens your eyes to the glorious potential of Moon Mountain District.

Pairing six big reds with a dinner menu can be ticklish, but the Green Dragon was up to the challenge. Our next dish was a Beef & Vegetable Stew and a Thai Quinoa Crunch Salad (prepared by me). The stew was a lighter affair just perfect for the Kamen 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain and the Lasseter 2018 Syrah Moon Mountain.

Faces at the Red Side of the Moon dinner

The Kamen captured fans right away with raspberry and violet notes riding on complex dark chocolate layers. Minerality and smooth tannins make for a great finish. The Lasseter was the only non-Cabernet wine and provided a nice contrast with a decided Old World vibe and brambly notes of sweet oak and blackberry. At this point, our guests have become avid Moon Mountain admirers.

All six wines have ABV levels above 14.5% and two have more than 15%, so it was time for a pause. Arthur presented his intermezzo, a chilled fruit soup duet. We enjoyed a Peach & Champagne Shooter and a Pear, Prosecco & Mint Spoon. Now that’s the way to cleanse your palate!

Peach & Champagne Shooter and a Pear, Prosecco & Mint Spoon

Two very special wines were teed up for our next entrée: Seared Duck Breast with Port & Cherry Sauce. What a refreshing food pairing. The duck offers a delicious change from steak, with its rich meat and robust flavor.

Louis M. Martini Monte Rosso and Duck

The Louis M. Martini 2018 Monte Rosso Vineyard has the vineyard’s signature spice and sweet oak aromatics. Topping out at 16.1% ABV, I wondered if this would be too “big,” but it proved to be big, balanced, and agile – like the Yankees Aaron Judge. Monte Rosso has been producing award-winning wines for three generations. This is a bottle that can and should be aged to fully integrate the tannins.

Stone Edge Farm Winery is an interesting producer that is focused on organic grapes and high environmental standards. It produces energy independent of the power grid and has a carbon footprint below zero. However, my main interest was its 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon. This has 4% Malbec and 1% Cabernet Franc, which fine-tunes the powerful Cabernet flavor. On the tongue, there are baking spices, ripe cherries, and tobacco.

Red Side of the Moon and chocolate

For our “wine-down,” we moved out to the patio and amidst the torch flames enjoyed a selection of Dark Chocolate Truffles and Caramels. Our final Moon Mountain District wine was the B Wise 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain. A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, just over 500 cases were produced. After five big reds, could the B Wise still delight? Yes, with exceptional balance, jammy goodness, dark fruit, and hints of leather this was a perfect wrap-up to the evening.

The greatness of these wines is undeniable right now, even though most are designed to age, some up to 20 years. The warmer climate, longer growing season, and rocky high-altitude soils make Moon Mountain wines a memorable treat. If you are unfamiliar with this unique region, the Moon Mountain District Winegrowers Association website provides a nice background.

Full Disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Roundup Event Captures The Best of Premium Texas Wine

Cactus, cowboys, and tumbleweeds? If that is your vision of Texas, get ready to expand your mind.

Roots Of Texas Wine

The first vineyard in North America, it is said, was established in Texas by Spanish missionaries in 1662. Today Texas has more than 500 wineries and the wine industry contributes more than $13 billion in economic value annually. It is the fifth-largest wine-producing state in the US, and boy are those wines good!

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The state of Texas is actually bigger than France with plenty of geographic diversity to grow grapes. To explore more deeply the Lone Star State winemaking tradition, we created a food and wine experience. The Texas Wine Roundup featured a selection of fine Texas wines paired with artfully prepared small dishes.

Texas Roundup Wineries

Here’s a capsule on the four Texas wineries showcased at our roundup:

Wedding Oak Winery has its main winery in San Saba. It specializes in Mediterranean-style wines with heavy influences from the Rhone Valley. The winemaker, Seth Urbanek has worked at wineries in Champagne, Australia, and New York’s Finger Lakes before moving back to his home state. His talent has elevated Wedding Oak to recognition as one of the top wineries in the country.

  

Texas Heritage Vineyard, located in Fredericksburg, just celebrated its fourth anniversary and is already racking up lofty awards. For two years in a row, their tasting room has been voted by the Fredericksburg Standard as the Reader’s Choice Best Winery Tasting Room. They are gaining national notoriety for impressive wines made with Portuguese varieties such as Souzao, and Italian grapes like Barbera and Sangiovese.

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Kerrville Hills Winery is located just north of Kerrville. Texas wine industry icon John Rivenburgh purchased the winery in 2019 and has put in a significant effort into building a portfolio of top-notch Texas wines. He is well known for his impressive Semillon, Mourvèdre, and is widely recognized as a leading evangelist of Tannat.

Fall Creek Vineyards is the closest winery to Austin. It is one of the oldest and most storied wineries in the state with incredible wines that have graced the table of presidential inaugurations. Winemaker Sergio Cuadra was recruited to move to Texas from a prestigious winery in his home country of Chile 10 years ago and has made a big imprint on the Texas wine industry.

Food And Wine Lone Star State Style

We invited four other couples to join us for the wine dinner and only one had tasted Texas wine before. Our guests created dishes to reflect Texas and match with a Texas bottle. The result – combining friendship, delicious food, and premium Texas wine – was a smashing success.

We opened with Cowboy Caviar bites and shrimp & avocado bites. This was paired with the Fall Creek 2021 Sauvignon Blanc and Wedding Oak 2021 Terre Blanc, a blend of Roussanne and Marsanne. The spritely Sauvignon Blanc carves its own path with lemon and white peach and a nice soft finish. The full-bodied Terre Blanc is golden yellow and barrel-aged with plenty of green apples and pear flavor.

The Rivenburgh 2021 High Plains Vermentino by Kerrville Hills Winery was light and crisp with a kiss of fresh apple. This was paired with Southwestern Fish Tacos with Apple Fennell Slaw & chipotle dressing artfully prepared by Arthur (merlot2muscadine.com).

The amazing Texas Heritage Vineyard 2019 Merlot was a silky intro to the reds. Its cherry notes are unified with the organic chicken thighs with porcini and cherries. This is a robust Merlot with beautifully extracted red fruit flavors.

A pinnacle for the evening was the limited 2021 "Alamo" Cabernet Sauvignon. Some of the grapes came from Fall Creek’s Oxbow Vineyard, which was land originally owned by Alamo hero William B. Travis. A portion of the sales of the wine will go to help operate and maintain the Alamo. This Cab has rich, deep, cherry and plum notes with a touch of light oak. It blended deliciously with Smoked Beef Brisket & BBQ Sauce with skillet-fried potatoes.

I had thought about having a palate cleanser at this point (five wines consumed) in the dinner. However, my wife, who had slaved for days to set everything up, protested. I decided that cornbread would be a great Texas-style “sorbet.” Our friends made tasty Borracha (drunken) Beans over cornbread, which accompanied the inky Texas Heritage 2019 Petite Sirah, which has blueberry and chocolate notes.

The grand finale was Wild Boar Ragù Pappardelle matched with the decanted Wedding Oak  2020 Tannat The wild boar was shipped in from Texas by D’Artagnian Gourment Meats. We also tasted the Kerrville Hills Winery Tannat as well. Texas Tannat is the most elegant expression of this grape I've tasted. Deep, powerful plum flavors and dark fruit tamed the raging bull (which had been simmering for 5 hours).

Although most were unfamiliar with Texas wines, everyone came away dazzled by the range and quality of these great wines. Thanks to the wineries for making this extravaganza possible. A tip of the Stetson to our posse of guests, who also helped prepare the meal: Phyllis The Filly and Bronco Bud, Ambush Arthur and Maverick Mary, Tombstone Tony and Alamo Amy, Lawless Laurie and Jedidiah Jeff. The hosts had to have outlaw names too – Wild Dave and Calamity Kathy.

Even if we all can’t be Texans, we can at least savor these brilliant Lone Star wines.

Full disclosure: The wines were received as marketing samples.