Canyoning In Costa Rica With Desafio Adventure Company

Canyoning combines rappelling, ziplining and splashing through scenic streams and gorges.

A New Adventure Sport

During our recent trip to Costa Rica, which was BC (before coronavirus), we tried something completely new. While traveling we like adventure. Usually it is rafting, hiking, snorkeling or maybe ziplining. Costa Rica has a well-deserved reputation for adventure sports, so it was time for our initiation into canyoning.

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Canyoning, also known as canyoneering, is relatively new on the scene. It started as an exploration sport, like caving or mountaineering. It’s been around for 15 or 20 years.

Canyoning is the descent of a river system or gorge using various techniques including swimming, walking, rappelling, jumping and climbing. It’s the mashup of all those things that gives the sport its unique appeal.

Our adventure took place in the Arenal Volcano region of Costa Rica. The excursion organizer was Desafio Adventure Company, which we give high marks. From our lodgings at Hotel Campo Verde we were transported on a shuttle bus, then transferred to an open-air vehicle more suited to rough terrain.

Lost Canyon and its waterfalls were the setting for our first foray into canyoning. After getting outfitted with a harness with various dangling metal attachments, we got a safety briefing. After a short ramble through the woods, we reached the first rappelling station. This is only about 10 feet high, really a warm-up to make sure you feel comfortable on the larger waterfall rappels.

They Want Us To Do What?

When we arrived at the next stop, my initial though was, “They want us to do what?” From the top of a 150-foot waterfall, a wooden platform looks out over a cascading waterfall and a flowing stream way down (to my eyes!) at the bottom.

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At this point I should mention that with our outfitter, safety is the top concern. You are securely hooked into a safety line and have a team of trained guides standing by. You can still expect a few butterflies as you stand on the top of the platform and the guide says, “Jump.”

You control your descent by controlling the tension on the rappelling line as you descend. After clearing the rocks and splashing water at the top,  I was dangling in midair. At this point, I released the rappelling line and grabbed a black safety line. My rappel then turned into a zipline, as I whirred across the stream below and past the tropical rain forest foliage.

You can expect to get soaked during canyoning. We dressed in quick-dry clothes, a swimsuit and sport sandals. I lathered up with sunscreen, thinking I’d need to protect myself from the brilliant Costa Rican sun – but our activity was mainly in the shade of the rainforest.

Ready, Set, Plunge

We clamored over boulders and splashed along the rushing stream until the guide told us to halt. At this next point we would leap into a six-foot-deep pool of water. This isn’t something I would normally do with a hardhat and a heavy harness, but a helpful guide was there to lift me out after the immersion into the cool mountain water.

Although the waterfall rappels were certainly high points, just navigating through the stream in the midst of a lush rainforest was uber-cool. We were with a small group, so we had chances to talk about our thrills and spills of the day.

As we balanced our way through the swiftly-flowing stream, I noticed one of the guides lying sideways in the stream. Odd, I thought, but the guide told us to keep hiking. His purpose became clear as we neared a narrow pathway cut through solid rock. The guide told us to sit and brace ourselves.

The chap we passed earlier was actually creating a human dam. On a signal, he moved out of position and released the torrent of water. We were battered with a rush of cold, frothing water that engulfed us. Quite a memory.

The highest waterfall is 200 feet and at this point we felt comfortable with the technique and could enjoy the ride so much more. I felt like a tropical bird soaring over the water and through the dense vegetation.

After the last waterfall, we were ready to ascend from the canyon and dry off. All that rappelling and zipping takes you down, down, down to the bottom of Lost Canyon. Back at base camp there was a chance to shower and dry off. We capped our experience with a delicious buffet meal at Desafio headquarters. Since the other members of our group were on a different tour, only three of us enjoyed the tropical feast. Almost a private gourmet meal!

We want to offer a tip of the cap to Green World Adventures which made the arrangements for transfers, lodging and excursions during our trip.

Canyoning is a great sport. Seek it out on your next travel adventure.

Hiking Costa Rica’s Arenal Volcano

Arenal is the most famous and most photographed volcano in Costa Rica.

Explosions And Burning Ash?

Costa Rica has more than 200 volcanic formations, but only six are considered active. Without question, Arenal is the most famed. Once upon a time, the volcano spewed lava on a daily basis -- but its last eruption was 2010. That’s good news. During our recent visit to Costa Rica, we wanted to visit Arenal, but that wouldn’t be possible if there was any chance of explosions and blankets of burning ash.

For our excursion to Arenal, we stayed at Campo Verde on the outskirts of La Fortuna. We arrived late at night and rolled our luggage along a walkway for several hundred meters before we found our bungalow. The lodging is rustic but comfortable -- offering air conditioning and a small porch to view the surroundings.

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When we awoke and walked to the main building for breakfast, we were bowled over by an amazing sight. We were surrounded by a lush landscape of trees and manicured flowers and towering in the near distance with a prominent strand of smoke, was Arenal.

For our Costa Rica trip, we booked through Green World Adventures. They made arrangements for our lodging, transfers, and worked with local companies for the excursions. We were very pleased with them and saved more than $2,000 compared with the outfit I was originally considering. Our hike at Arenal Volcano was with Desafio Adventures. Desafio is a quality operation.

We had the best of both worlds on our trip. It was personalized -- not a mass of 20 or 30 people milling around -- but for the excursions, we were booked into tours that featured small groups. This was perfect for chatting and making friends. For the hike up Arenal, it turns out that we had a personal tour guide. It was just me, the Green Dragon, and tour guide Steven.

A Rarified View

We were blessed with good luck. The night before on the road to Campo Verde we spied Arenal in the distance swathed in clouds. The day of the hike, the mountain was fully visible in all its glory -- a rarity we were told.

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Before trekking to the summit of the trail, you should be sure to have a broad-brimmed hat, sunglasses, plenty of sunscreen and a full water bottle. There are hiking sticks at the foot of the trail if you so choose.

Before embarking on your volcano trip, you should understand that you won’t be looking over the rim of the crater into a steaming pool of lava. It just isn’t safe. Instead the trail summit takes you to the base of the volcano with great views of the stones and hardened lava flows covering the side of the mountain.

If you enjoy birdwatching, as we do, you may want to bring your binoculars. We saw some amazing birds including a Jacamar, Boat-billed Flycatcher, White-throated Magpie Jay, Red-cheeked Woodpecker, and Montezuma Oropendola.

Hitting The Trail Summit

The hike takes about three hours for a round trip. Most of the way is like a nature trail and isn’t challenging, but there’s plenty to see and enjoy. About a third of the way up the trail becomes steeper with switchbacks and loose rocks. It’s not supremely challenging, but it can get long and hot.

As you move up the mountain, vegetation starts to thin out. Huge volcanic rocks, tossed by a savage eruption in 1968, litter the landscape. The summit of the trail gives you a perfect view of Arenal and a chance to sit and enjoy the view. Turn away from the volcano, if you can, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning look at Lake Arenal.

Campo Verde is close to a couple of restaurants and our outing worked up an appetite. We visited the Steak House Mirador Arenal, just a few steps away from the camp. The food was good, but we were especially thankful for the cold beer. I had a cold bottle of Pilsen and of the three local brews I tried, I rank it the best -- especially after a long, hot hike!

Arenal Volcano is an iconic attraction in Costa Rica. The power and beauty of Arenal, as well as the flora and fauna, make this a must-see destination for your next South American trip.

Costa Rica’s Monteverde Cloud Forest: Ziplining With The Original Canopy Tour

Looking to spot exotic animals in the cloud forest, zip through the lush treetops, or gallop on a sunset horse ride? Monteverde offers all this and more.

And Away We Go…

No adventure tour in Costa Rica would be complete without ziplining. We first zipped through the treetops in Ohio’s Hocking Hills and found the combination of speed, height and scenery to be marvelous. While in Monteverde, we hooked up with The Original Canopy Tour for our forest zipline experience. OCT is the originator of the canopy tour concept. The founders of the company moved from Canada to Costa Rica with the idea of creating an exhilarating experience while raising environmental awareness.

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The cost of the canopy tour is about $50 and you can book online. This is a half-day tour and you should be reasonably fit and comfortable with standing at heights of more than 100 feet. Be sure to wear closed toed shoes. Bring insect repellant and sunscreen. You can forget about your camera. I brought a small digital camera that had a wrist strap, but had almost no chance to use it. They have a professional photographer and the cost is a very reasonable $20. You’ll have lockers to stow your gear before heading out.

The zipline course is located in a 70-acre private reserve of the Monteverde Cloud Forest. After we were fitted with a harness and got a safety briefing we began with a vigorous hike up a hilly trail that winds through the woods. One of the nice things about the OCT is that it isn’t just ziplining. They have a few twists – like the Tarzan swing, which was the first course feature. This helps chase away the butterflies as you leap off the tower and take high, sweeping swings through the forest.

The canopy tour was part of the Eco-Adventure tour we booked with Green World Adventures. They did an outstanding job making all arrangements for our trip.

Into The Scary Tree

The course has 14 cables, but one of the most unique features doesn’t involve zipping. The Scary Tree is a large Strangler Fig tree that has overtaken a ficus tree resulting in a soaring tree with a hollow inside. Once atop the platform on the tree, our guide said the next step was to rappel – straight down -- from our 150-foot perch. This was different from our past rappelling experience as the guide was in control the whole way – and it seemed like he let me plummet for a good while before slowing my decent. I loved it!

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Once on the bottom, we had to get back to the platform in order to continue zipping. To do that we clamored up rope netting into the hollow tree. When you come out the opening, the path to the top is a vertical rope ladder. After that we were ready to get on the zipline and feel the wind blowing in our faces.

The longest cable is more than a half-mile long. For this one we were instructed not to brake as we would need all our momentum to make it to the next platform. I followed all the instructions. I swear I did. Still, I came up a bit short and finished the last 15 feet or so by pulling myself hand-over-hand to the platform.

The Original Canopy Tour is a first-class operation and an exhilarating experience. We recommend it highly.

Tree House Restaurante

After a pulse-racing morning, we decided to enjoy a relaxing lunch in Santa Elena. One place had caught our eye as we drove past, the Tree House Restaurante and Café. The main feature of the restaurant is a giant ficus tree that grows right up through the middle of the restaurant and up to the roof. The first order of business was liquid refreshment.

We enjoyed two of our favorite local beers: Pilsen and Imperial. I first had Imperial after I got tossed into the Pacaure River during our rafting trip. As the first into the water, I had to buy beer for the rest of the crew.

We decided on burritos and they did not disappoint. The quality of the food, the surroundings and excellent service makes this a sure-fire pick for a meal during your visit to Monteverde.

After the short walk back to Villa Lodge we decided we had time for a nighttime activity. Through the front desk we were able to book a night tour of the Monteverde Cloud Forest.

My wife had her heart set on seeing a sloth and I figured the best way was to do a night walk. The evenings can be cool in the cloud forest, so dress accordingly. The weather can be changeable, too. We had a rain shower while waiting for our shuttle bus, but didn’t encounter any on our tour. The tour provides flashlights, but I brought my own.

Monteverde Night Walk

The tour cost is $25 and if you are expecting to see a menagerie of animals, keep your money in your wallet. We had the misfortune of having an unenthusiastic and just not very good guide. His name was Gopher (although the spelling may be suspect). This activity is very popular and the woods were crawling with other tour groups.

Other guides were animatedly talking to their people while Gopher spent a lot of time explaining why we might not see anything and then asking us to keep moving along. Other guides had spotting scopes they set up for their guests to use. Gopher appeared to have one in his pack, but he never got it out.

On the bus back to the hotel others were talking about how they saw tarantulas and how amazing they were. We got to see the legs of a tarantula before Gopher said, “She’s not coming out, let’s move on.”

We did see a green vine snake in a distant tree, a stick bug, a few birds sacked out for the night and the back two-thirds of a White-nosed Coati. No sloths.

Walking around in a Costa Rican cloud forest at night with flashlights is fun and that’s probably worth $25 a head. Dial down your expectations and you’ll have a good time and might, just might, see some amazing animals.

Monteverde is natural Costa Rica at its best. Your options to explore are plentiful and fantastic memories are guaranteed.

Costa Rica's Monteverde Cloud Forest: Horseback Riding With Equus

Looking to spot exotic animals in the cloud forest, zip through the lush treetops, or gallop on a sunset horse ride? Monteverde offers all this and more.

Into The Cloud Forest

San Jose may be Costa Rica’s capital and largest city - but visitors to this Central American country will only find spectacular scenery and wildlife by venturing forth into the hills and forests. We had the good fortune to visit Costa Rica during February, which is during the country’s dry season and was before the coronavirus sent the US and world into a tailspin.

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We booked our trip through Green World Adventures, which handled our lodging, excursions and all our transfers. It is a super way to travel and gave us the best of both worlds. We traveled as a couple (and not a large group) but made plenty of friends on the excursions we participated in. Our tour was called Eco-Adventure, and it certainly was.

Monteverde, or Green Mountain, is a major destination for adventurers. After crossing Lake Arenal in a ferry, we bumped and rumbled to Santa Elena, a small town adjoining Monteverde, and prepared for a horseback riding outing.

We stayed at Villa Lodge, which is on a gravel road that is under construction and lies just a short walk from restaurants and the main part of town. The inside is spacious and includes a television, refrigerator, and microwave. There is no air conditioning, but a standing floor fan provided a nice breeze. Breakfast was included, and we enjoyed the beautiful dining spot and friendly service.

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One evening the Green Dragon, my wife, called me to look outside. A cow was wandering the side of the street. We were told this is common. In other parts of Costa Rica we’d see horses as well as cows meandering while searching for the tastiest grass.

Giddyap Horsey

Action was on our agenda and soon after checking in we were off to ride horses. Equus was the excursion provider and promised “gentle” horses. This was important to me since I had only been on a horse one other time in my life. That was in summer camp when I refused to ride ponies with the other grade school kids and demanded a ride on Big Red.

The horses were being assigned and riders and horses cantered to the trailhead. I wondered what sort of horse would be left in the corral, since only me and another poor soul had yet to be given rides.

Before long I was in the saddle of Carmelo, who like Carmelo Anthony of the NBA (remember that?) is a bit long in the tooth. My wife was riding Hernando and, with me holding my breath, we rode down the trail.

The sweeping countryside was amazing. We were riding at the perfect time as the sun was starting to sink. Its rays made the foliage glow with golden hues. Carmelo plodded along at first, but then displayed the spirit of Rocky Balboa, passing pokey horses dawdling in a stream. We then burst up a steep hillside to pass a passel of horses on their way to our sunset overlook.

The horses are sure-footed. I was surprised how they navigated rugged slopes and put their hooves in just the right spot, avoiding ruts and piles of rocks.

Back at the starting point, we turned in our helmets and enjoyed a cup of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice. My knees were a bit wobbly after the ride, but it was a marvelous experience that I thoroughly enjoyed.

Casillero Del Diablo 2017 Reserva Cabernet Costa Rica Limited Edition, Chile

Mardi Gras Far From Home

Mardi Gras has always been a special celebration for us. We’ve loved New Orleans since the first time we visited. Since then we’ve marked the occasion with celebrations large and small. This year was different.

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We decided to take an eco-adventure to Costa Rica. This Central American country is about as far away from good grape growing territory as you can get. Pineapples, watermelons, bananas, mangos, and papaya -- that’s a different story. The fruit is incredibly fresh and delicious.

The wine in Costa Rica primarily comes from Chile. While we didn’t comb through wine and liquor stores, I didn’t see any US wine on the shelves at the places we did go.

The Search For Vino

When we stopped at a supermarket in Santa Elena for some provisions on Fat Tuesday, I slid down the beverage aisle to see what the options might be. There were several South American wines that seemed very interesting.

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This bottle caught our eye because our friends are big fans of Casillero Del Diablo. What made me pull the trigger was the beautifully ornate bottle. The artwork includes toucans, blooming flowers and lush vegetation in an ornate and very Central American design. This is a limited edition Costa Rica release and that sealed the deal.

Although this is a reserva wine, it won’t blow your doors off. The reserva term indicates that the alcohol level is at least 12% but doesn’t require any special aging.

That being said, it is an enjoyable wine. For a Cab, it is light and fruit-forward. There are juicy flavors of plum and cherry and some wafting notes of oak. It was quite a treat in our bungalow room in Monteverde as we celebrated Mardi Gras 3,500 miles from home after a nighttime stroll through the cloud forest.

Casillero Del Diablo wines deliver great value for the dollar. While the entry range will satisfy your everyday drinking needs, the winery offers several ranges of quality with some nice bottles on the upper tiers.

Whitewater Rafting Costa Rica’s Pacaure River With Exploradores Outdoors

Our whitewater adventure was rolling right along – then we encountered the rapids called Graveyard…

Costa Rica White Water Excitement

White water rafting has always held an appeal for us since we first dipped our toes into the rushing waters of West Virginia’s New River. We’ve been rafting about a half dozen times, but never outside the US. When we booked our travel to Costa Rica, one of the main attractions was the chance to raft the Pacuare River.

Our Costa Rica travels began in San Jose where we overnighted at Hotel Auténtico. The next morning we boarded the Exploradores Outdoors van for our trip to their Exploration Center, the launching point for their raft trips.

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We started by fortifying ourselves with gallo pinto, the staple breakfast for Costa Rica which is rice and beans mixed with onions and peppers. It was quite good -- and we would need the energy for what lay ahead.

Our guide Roy was funny and obviously an expert rafter. We got the safety rundown as our bus rumbled to the river. He covered the basics of paddling, the various commands he would use, and safety instructions in the event someone went into the river. He also mentioned that drinks were on the first person to go overboard.

Packed With Rapids

The Pacuare River flows about 80 miles from the Costa Rican hills to the Caribbean. The one-day raft trip would cover 18 miles packed with 38 rapids. For the trip you’ll need the right rafting clothes, including light shoes that will stay on in the water, a quick-dry shirt, swimsuit, and sunscreen. There are lockers at the Exploration Center, so you can stow your luggage or change of clothes. At the half-way point, we would stop for lunch.

On either side of the river, tropical forest and steep green walls bracket the river. The weather had been mostly dry prior to our trip, but two days before the area had gotten a substantial rain -- which meant good rafting. During the first part of our ride, we practiced the various commands, such as “get down” where we would all crouch in the center of the raft while Roy guided us through a particularly rough passage.

You Ain’t Seen Nothing Yet!

The section of the Pacuare we were rafting has Class III and IV rapids. The top classification for commercial rafting is V, which we’ve done a few times. Soon the water was churning and slapping over the edges of the raft as we paddled in rhythm.

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“Wow, was that a Class III?” someone asked. “No,” Roy responded. “That was a one.” We strapped on our helmets a bit tighter and paddled on.

There’s nothing like the exhilaration of being on a raft navigating through jutting rocks, riding high on a rapid’s swell then plunging down into the spray. Meanwhile, you’re paddling like crazy with your fellow rafters. The rapids come fast and frequent, but there are still opportunities to savor the beauty of the river and the forest beneath the impossibly blue Costa Rican sky.

We also had the opportunity to swim in the river, or more accurately drift in the current, in the calmer sections. The Huacas Waterfall plunges 100 feet into the river and you can paddle underneath to get an invigorating shower.

It’s Called Graveyard For A Reason

There are many named rapids including Pinball, Double Drop, and Bye Bye Burrito (which is right after the mid-way lunch stop). The lunch was a nice break to refuel with some tortilla wraps, fresh fruit, and cold drinks. One rapid that I won’t soon forget is Graveyard.

The key step to stay locked in the raft is wedging one foot under the inflatable strut in front of you and your other foot under the strut behind you. Maintaining that while all heck breaks loose is the trick.

Our raft went nose down into Graveyard. It hit a rock or wall of water and momentarily compressed. When it did, my foot pushed down on the raft bottom, freeing it from its locked-in position. The raft uncoiled and I saw the front paddler lurch over backward toward the water. My wife then splashed down.

I was catapulted out of the raft, twisting in the air for a moment I could see the sunshine reflecting on the cascading water. Then I plunged in, enveloped by a swirl of foaming water and bubbles.

When I resurfaced, I was about 20 feet from the raft, still clutching my paddle. I tried swimming to the raft but had no luck against the swift current. I made my way to a safety kayak and tried holding fast to a rock, but soon slid off into the roaring current. The second time was the charm, as I locked onto the kayak and was soon hoisted back into the raft.

Never before had I been tossed from a raft, but the Pacuare was a worthy opponent, full of exciting rapids and rocky challenges. Thanks to the safety briefing and professionalism of the Exploradores Outdoors crew, I never felt unsafe despite bobbing like a cork in the swirling chaos.

It was a trip to remember. I know my raftmates certainly will -- I had to buy them each a cold Imperial beer when we got back to base camp!

Both Exploradores Outdoors and Green World Adventures (who put together our Eco Adventure) are highly recommended.