Reyneke Biodynamic Winegrowing Yields South African Gems

A stranger to South African wine? Whet your appetite with these picks.

Ancient Practices For Modern Wine

Biodynamic methods have been at the cutting edge -- some might say the outer fringe -- of winegrowing for many years. Rather than a new technique, it harkens back to age-old cycles of agriculture.

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Biodynamic farming, while very similar to organic farming, is unique in that it conceives of a vineyard as an entire ecosystem on its own. Biodynamic practices also incorporate ancient ideas like astrological influences, natural preparations to protect and aid the vines, and lunar cycles. No synthetic chemicals are used in the farming of the grapes, and oftentimes animals like cows, alpacas, and sheep are used to complete the vineyard ecosystem and increase biodiversity.

There are now more than 4,500 certified biodynamic wineries worldwide in more than 50 countries. Reyneke Wines in Stellenbosch has the distinction of being the very first winery certified as biodynamic (by Demeter International) in all of South Africa.

The Reyneke team is led by Johan Reyneke who took over farming activities on the family farm more than 20 years ago and produced the first wine. He gradually moved from conventional farming practices to organic and now to biodynamic principles.

Sustainable Wine Ecosystem

At Reyneke, the farm is seen as an ‘individuality’. It needs to be self-sustainable and self-supporting. Why? If the farm can produce its own fertilizer and compost, this means it’s less dependent on trucking-in fertilizer in clouds of diesel exhausts. If the farm is self-sufficient, their own cow manure ‘costs’ the same every day, no matter the price of oil.

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The vineyards are herbicide, fungicide, and pesticide-free. Instead, companion plants are used to out-compete the weeds and natural predators (like ducks) are used to combat pests.

Is all the care that goes into growing the grapes reflected in the glass? We recently opened a selection of Reyneke wines to find out.

First of all, we are mighty fans of Stellenbosch and South African wines. We find that wines from here have Old World sensibilities with the bold flavors of the New World. Our faith in this great wine region was borne out with the Reyneke wines.

The 2018 Vinehugger Red is a blend of 85% Shiraz and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an explosion of red fruit and spice flavors with several layers. It’s a smooth wine with light tannins courtesy of 25% aging in used oak barrels. This is amazingly good for $14.99.

The white counterpart is the 2018 Vinehugger White, which is 100% Chenin Blanc. This is a fresh and vibrant surprise for anyone whose love of white wine has been dulled by nondescript Chardonnay. There are flavors of apricot and citrus and lip-smacking acidity. The finish is 80% stainless steel and 20% mature oak barrels. This wine was a favorite as we wrapped up a long, hot day on the patio. SRP is $16.99.

Reyneke also offers its 2018 Chenin Blanc, a top of the line South African Chenin that has captured a slew of awards. The grapes come from vineyards planted in the 1970s and the wine is aged in second use French oak and larger 2,500-litre casks. It is aged on the lees for 10 months to give added complexity. Pear, grapefruit, and melon flavors abound in this delightful wine. SRP is $33.99.

A Spectacular Syrah Wine Dinner

We selected the 2017 Syrah for a special wine dinner. This wine retails for $28.99. A third of the grapes are crushed by foot and all are then fermented in concrete tanks. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and gets 14 months in oak and another three months in stainless steel.

This is biodynamic winemaking at its best. All the nuances of the wine are present with rushing blueberry and raspberry fruit notes and a complex undercurrent of savory herbs and pepper. The tannins provide a nice structure without being overbearing.

We had to up our culinary game to match this fine wine. Our meal was a succulent Seared Duck with Date Jus and Parmesan Foam with Smashed Fingerling Potatoes. My diet lately has been pretty regulated with mostly plant-based dishes. For the night, though, we reveled in the rich duck breast with the sweet date sauce. The fingerling potatoes were cooked in duck fat -- oh, the delicious decadence! The Syrah was bold enough to stand up to the richness for a divine pairing of biodynamic goodness and fine dining.

I’ve never been sure how much difference the practices of biodynamic winegrowing really makes. One thing that has always been certain is that when you are meticulous in the details and show care for the earth, the quality and love shine through to the wine. We heartily recommend Reyneke wines!

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Hanna 2014 Bismark Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Moon Mountain District

As big as a battleship, this delicious mountain Cabernet Sauvignon comes from one of our favorite AVAs.

Under The Spotlight

During our last visit to Sonoma, we had an exceptional visit to Hanna Winery. The spotlight event was a wine pairing lunch hosted by Christine Hanna that featured Hanna wines with some succulent dishes. For us, the spotlight shone brightest on the 2014 Bismark Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the Moon Mountain District.

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Years ago we enjoyed wines from the Moon Mountain Vineyard. They were exceptional. When they closed, we lost our lifeline to wines from this exceptional area in the Mayacamas Mountains that lie between Napa Valley and Sonoma.

In 2013 the Moon Mountain District was established as an AVA. Although one of our favorite wineries was gone, wines created from that special terroir are still available. Hanna makes an impressive line of Moon Mountain AVA wines from their Bismark Mountain Vineyard, which is located in rugged terrain in the Mayacamas Mountains. The vineyard, located on the Sonoma side of Mt. Veeder, is so remote, there are no roads.

A Legendary Wine

We tasted and were blown away by the 2014 Bismark Cabernet Sauvignon. Last week we had a chance to open another bottle as we shared a virtual dinner with good friends Glorious T and The Cabernetor, who were with us on our trip to Hanna’s Alexander Valley tasting room.

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The Bismark Cabernet is as big as the legendary German battleship. With that in mind, we decanted the bottle for an hour.

The wine is dark ruby in color -- almost inky. We noticed some sediment in the decanter as we poured our first glass. Supple and elegant, the wine ripples with power. Sturdy tannins provide the underpinning for earthy and red fruit flavors. Baking spice, plums, and mountain brambles add interest to this mountain-style Cab. The body is full-plus and the intensity and finish are also big.

Over The Moon

To accompany our Bismark Cab, the Green Dragon prepared Vietnamese Shaking Beef (you may know it as Bò lúc lắc). This is a dish of grilled beef tenderloin cubes mixed with peppers, onions and savory sauces served on a bed of lettuce. It gets its name from the the shaking of the pan as you grill the cubes of meat. The Bismark paired with this dish was enough to trigger euphoria.

This is a wine to buy in multiples. Get several bottles. Enjoy one now and let the others mellow and evolve. The 2014 vintage of the Bismark Cabernet Sauvignon was limited to 500 cases. The current vintage is 2016 and it retails for $70.

We were “over the moon” with this powerful yet elegant wine. Explore the moon with your own bottle.

La Petite Ferme 2013 The Verdict, Franschhoek

An anniversary dinner during COVID-19 lockdown? Here’s how we handled it.

A Milestone Event During A Crisis

Celebrating a milestone wedding anniversary and a coronavirus lockdown don’t go hand in hand. Normally we’d be jetting to Paris and eating at an exclusive restaurant while I shower my wife with expensive gifts. Hmm, not quite, but we certainly would go out to a nice eatery for dinner. We also had planned a tour through national parks in Utah for this timeframe. Even Dr. Anthony Fauci couldn’t save this year’s celebration, though.

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Although confined to our home, we had a balmy day -- just perfect for a romantic dinner on the patio. The Green Dragon, my lovely and talented wife, started preparations for a wonderful meal. For hours she worked singlehandedly in the kitchen on this culinary masterpiece.

Meanwhile, I did the really hard work. I grated several tablespoons of cheese and had the all-important assignment of picking the wine. To my credit, I did procure a very nice bouquet of roses and bought the very last anniversary card in the store.

A Menu To Savor

The menu was a masterpiece. The entree was pork tenderloin stuffed with spinach and mushrooms topped with a sherry cream sauce. Accompanying the meat was a perfectly crisped three-cheese potatoes gratin. For dessert, we enjoyed a beautiful vegan Berry Blackout cake with a chocolate strawberry sauce.

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The tablecloth was spread and the sun was shining as I uncorked our selected wine: The Verdict, 2013 vintage, from La Petite Ferme winery in Franschhoek, South Africa. We bought the wine during a tour of South African winelands five years ago.

After heading up winding mountain roads and navigating down a steep, narrow driveway, we came to La Petite Ferme. La Petite Ferme is a winery known not only for its wine but its fine cuisine. We were surprised to see we were the only car in the small parking lot.

We later learned that tastings were by appointment only. Graciously, the cellar manager agreed to do an informal tasting for us. What luck! The wines were inspired. We learned inside tales of making wine in South Africa, including how baboons would sneak down the hillsides to eat Chardonnay grapes. Apparently, they have refined taste.

And The Verdict Is…

There were many well-crafted wines, but we decided on The Verdict when Sonja, our host, told us this was a wine that can “take it all through the night.” We carried it back from South Africa (along with many more) in a checked bag.

The Verdict is a luscious blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is aged 17 months in oak. Five years of aging turned the wine into an even more amazing treat. The Cab Franc contributed spice and pepper to dark fruit and deep cherry flavors. It is soft and silky on the tongue. The wine is lively and vibrant, a testament to quality South African winemaking.

With meals like this, we just may make it through this crisis after all. Stay safe, everyone.

Bodega San Valero Delivers Cariñena Wine Goodness To The World

Located in the Aragón region of Spain, Bodegas San Valero is both a historic winery and a pioneering wine group that includes 500 winegrowers.

75 Harvests

In 1944 a group of 60 winegrowers in Cariñena, who mainly produced bulk wine, founded Cooperativa Vinícola San Valero. Seventy-five harvests later, that number has grown to 500 members who are focused on technology and vineyard management to produce quality wines.

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Cooperatives allow grape growers to band together to share production facilities and market their wines more efficiently. Under the banner of Bodega San Valero, Cooperativa Vinícola San Valero has been exporting its wine for 25 years reaching more than 30 countries.

Bodega San Valero and its partners cultivate more than 8,500 acres on a high plateau in the Cariñena wine region. The vineyards are planted at 2,600-foot altitude with a significant diurnal temperature swing and cool, dry Cierzo winds from the north. The conditions, along with mostly stony soil, result in wines with fresh minerality, structure and deep expression.

During our recent #winestudio education program we were able to experience the breadth and quality of the Bodega San Valero wines. Our culinary team created outstanding dishes to pair with these Spanish beauties.

Cava In Cariñena?

We flagged Cariñena as an up and coming region in a recent story. We love Spanish wines and bottles from Cariñena display variety and an ever-improving quality. What caught me off-guard was learning that Cava is produced in the region.

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During my visit to Spain, I toured wineries in Penedès – the home of Spain’s famous sparkling Cava. Ninety-five percent of Spanish Cava originates in Catalonia – but it is produced in Cariñena as well. Bodegas San Valero has several labels, including Grand Ducay, which is its Cava brand.

We sampled the Grand Ducay Brut Nature Blanco and Rosado. Both are made in the traditional method with fermentation in the bottle. The Blanco is made with Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel.lo, traditional Cava grapes. The Rosado, a beautiful rosé sparkler, is made with Garnacha (Grenache).

Paired with Maryland-style lump crab cake, tri-color potatoes and roasted broccoli and cauliflower, both wines were delicious. At a price tag of $11 SRP, these are affordable enough to make any day special with bubbles.

Don’t Forget The Garnacha

One of the hallmarks of the wine revolution in Cariñena is the diversity of grapes and wines produced. You best not forget the reputation of the region was built on Garnacha and its namesake grape, though.

We uncorked wines from three different vintages: The Celebrities 2019 Garnacha, Celebrities 2016 Old Vines Garnacha and the 2017 Cariñena. Our culinary team whipped up gazpacho, rosemary grilled lamb chops and vegan Patatas Bravas.

The 2019 Garnacha is smooth and accessible, while the Cariñena is a spicy and engaging wine. Formerly a workhorse grape added to blends, the Celebrities single varietal Cariñena shows it can shine on its own. My favorite was the Old Vines Garnacha – the extra aging and select vines make this refined and elegant. All three of these bottles retail for $15, an amazing value.

International Varieties Emerge

Our Cariñena education continued as we uncorked a quartet of bottles featuring international varieties. Featured wines were the 2018 vintages of the Celebrities Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. We capped our tasting adventure with 500 Manos, a special Bordeaux-style blend. Affordability is the byword in Cariñena, with the Celebrities Merlot, Syrah and Cab just $15 and 500 Manos $5 more.

For the Celebrities wines we dined on Estofado de Carne con Verduras, Spanish beef stew with vegetables. We also enjoyed Papas Aliñás, Andalusian-style potatoes popular as tapas. The 2018 Celebrities Merlot has warm notes of red berries, cherry and cedar with noticeable tannins. Certainly a step up in complexity from a simple Merlot. The Cabernet has a black fruit profile with blueberry, cassis and blackberry. There are loose tannins and a smooth texture.

The culinary team (and I) picked the Syrah as the favorite of this trio. It has bold flavors of plum and raisin with some spice on the back end.

The 500 Manos is a special bottle. Its label has a close-up photo of a hand (“manos” is hands in Spanish) clenching some soil. The 500 hands represent members of the cooperative.

It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. This is a limited production of 98,000 bottles and Bottle #56 sure tasted fine. It has an initial rush of ripe berries and rhubarb followed by dusty earth notes and beautiful tannins. An expressive and refined wine – it is usually shared just with the Bodegas San Valero partners.

Not only did we enjoy a tour of Cariñena wine – but grand epicurean tastings as well. Our meal for the 500 Manos was NY Strip Steak served with Thai Green Chile Pesto, lemon-parsley potatoes and grilled corn with lime compound butter. The wine and meal were spectacular.

The wines of Bodega San Valero pulse with the flavors of adventure and life. They are fun, affordable and eminently food-friendly. Explore these tasteful Spanish wines and unlock a new experience.

Tasty Product Line Helps Everyone Love Their Veggies

Plant Junkie offers a line of vegan dressings, spreads and vinaigrettes.

By Rachel Nershi

A Twist On A Classic

As a long-time vegan, cook/baker, and certified Vegan Health Coach, I am always excited to see new plant-based products and companies popping up. One brand that I’ve recently discovered is Plant Junkie and their line of spreads, dressings, and vinaigrettes. Their playful packaging is eye-catching and clearly labels their products as 100% plant-based, gluten-free, and non-GMO. After checking out the ingredient list, I was sold and ready to dive in and give them a try.

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Turmeric Black Pepper Ranch is a fun twist on a classic. With the anti-inflammatory benefits of turmeric as a bonus, I knew it was going to be good. It has a creamy, pourable consistency and a pretty golden color. The unique flavor profile features turmeric, black pepper and a nicely balanced acidity level. I love it on spinach salad and as a dip for raw veggies. Now I find myself craving this non-traditional Ranch dressing all the time!

Vegan Love

Next, I put the Spread & Dressing to the test, which is their plant-based mayo-style spread made from avocado oil. I have come to love vegan mayo for its versatility in creating creamy sauces and dressings, so I had high hopes for this better-ingredient version. Right off the bat, I noticed the smooth and spreadable texture was perfect for sandwiches and burgers.

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I also used it in a dressing for coleslaw, which was a delicious success. Since traditional mayo is made from eggs and oil, it contains cholesterol and is high in calories and fat. This version is cholesterol-free and the avocado oil is a healthy fat that you don’t have to feel guilty about.

Tangy Plus Mellow Equals?

Plant Junkie also has a couple unique vinaigrettes in their line-up, and I tried them both. The Thai Peanut Vinaigrette has a smooth creamy consistency from peanuts and has a little zing and heat to it. The Chili Pomegranate Vinaigrette is equally tangy, with mellow heat from chilies and the slight sweetness of pomegranate. These interesting vinaigrettes will ensure that your salads are fun and flavorful.

After trying these new-to-me products, I can say that I’m proud to support this company that seems to genuinely care about providing items made with quality ingredients that are good for us. Many of Plant Junkie’s products feature avocado oil, apple cider vinegar, chia seeds, coconut aminos, and a few are lightly sweetened with coconut palm sugar. I can recognize every ingredient on the label, and can tell that they have not been highly processed. As a health coach, I would 100% recommend their products to my clients or anyone who wants to jazz up their salads, sandwiches, and more with the tasty products that Plant Junkie has to offer.

Rachel Nershi is a professional cook and baker and certified Vegan Health Coach. You can learn more about her and plant-based lifestyle coaching at: https://earth-n-oven.com/

Full disclosure: These products were received as marketing samples.

Virtual Dinner Party Lets Us Drink Wine Together – Digitally

Hunkered down during the coronavirus lockdown? Try a virtual wine dinner with friends.

Internet Helps The Wine Flow

In this time of COVID-19 and social distancing, the opportunities to raise a glass of wine together are almost nonexistent. Thankfully my wife and I are in the coronavirus oblivion together and we can uncork a bottle whenever the mood strikes us. We do miss sharing a bottle with old friends.

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The business world has moved online with telecommuting, Zoom meetings and apps to order meals and goods delivered to your doorstep. Wine tasters, including us, have followed suit.

Last week we were able to “have dinner” with our good friends Steve and Tracey who live hundreds of miles away in Ohio. The “Cabernetor” and “Glorious T” have been part of our tasting team for years, even before this blog was founded more than a decade ago.

Our dinner was a virtual one but in this time of pandemic lockdown, it was a joyous and welcome thing. I had to pick out a pair of special bottles for the occasion.

Bottles With A Story

Dipping into the wine cellar, I first plucked the Meeker Vineyard Combination Code Three. The bottle is special to us since it was a gift from Steve and Tracey on the occasion of my “landmark” birthday a few years ago. Not only that, but they picked the bottle up when the four of us visited La Scola Italian Grill in Toledo for a tasting of Meeker wines paired with some crazy good food.

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The Combination Code Three back in 2016 was paired with slow-roasted poblano infused short ribs. Last week our pairing was peppercorn beefsteak with mushroom wine reduction sauce, Hasselback potatoes, and grilled Brussel sprouts.

Once we both joined the Zoom meeting, Steve and Tracey popped open a rosé Champagne. As the screen showed us opening the Meeker Combination, Steve slipped off-camera and soon returned with another bottle of Meeker Combination! Both bottles were signed by Molly Meeker, who owns Meeker Vineyard along with husband Charlie. Each of our bottles was signed by Molly and Charlie.

It was truly a special moment, although we were huddled separately in our foxholes, figuratively, we were able to enjoy the same wine through a digital connection. The Meeker Combination is 60% Syrah, 20% Petite Sirah and 20% Barbera -- a smooth and luscious wine that blended seamlessly with our steak. It brought back great memories -- I was sorry to learn that La Scola closed last year.

Just One More

Perhaps we should have stopped at one bottle, but we didn’t. We don’t have to drink all of the wine in each bottle, I reasoned to Green Dragon, my wife. With that logic firmly in place, I uncorked the World’s End If Six Was Nine 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. This also had a special connection for our group.

I picked up the World’s End (an unfortunate name perhaps considering the current situation) at a tasting at Walt Churchill’s Market in Maumee. Back in 2013, Austin Beeman was the wine manager at Churchill’s and he hosted an iconic Cabernet Sauvignon tasting. Austin went on to manage marketing at Bonny Doon winery and then fill key management roles at a Toledo-area distributor.

The tasting that day, which Cabernetor and I attended, was breaking the bank before any bottles were purchased. For a two-ounce sample of the top iconic Cabs, it was $25 a sip!

The 2009 vintage is one of my favorites for Napa Valley and Steve and I purchased bottles of the World’s End If Six Was Nine. The bottle I opened last week was Napa Cab at its rollicking best: bold tannins with currant, chocolate, and waves of vanilla. The wine has small amounts of Cab Franc and Merlot. A dynamite bottle.

Is a virtual dinner a replacement for a face-to-face meal? Certainly not, but it represents a lifeboat in a sea of uncertainty and negative news. Imagine if this pandemic occurred in 1970 or 1980. Today’s technology allows us to keep in touch and boost the spirits -- as well as one more reason to uncork a special bottle.

Cheers to good friends and to a quick end to the current crisis.

Kosher Wine Selections Brighten Fall Season

These four kosher wine selections are ideal for the holidays.

An Evolving Wine Category

Once upon a time, kosher wine meant sweetened wine made with Concord grapes. Those times are long gone.

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Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, signals the launch of new products that demonstrate the variety and quality of kosher wines. These are wines that appeal to Jews and non-Jews alike. To kick off the fall season we hosted a special wine dinner with kosher wines spanning three continents.

The Inside Story On Kosher Wine

As mentioned, the quality of kosher wine continues to rise. It is still a wine segment that is misunderstood.

“When it comes to taste, there’s no difference between kosher and non-kosher wine,” says Jay Buchsbaum, Director of Wine Education at Royal Wine Corp., the top kosher wine purveyor in America. “In fact, many kosher wines are award-winning - beating out their non-kosher competitors for top varietal prizes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and rosés as well.

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“There’s a common ‘urban legend’ that wine is rendered kosher after being blessed by a Rabbi – that is incorrect. Actually, for a wine to be made kosher, there are strictly supervised purity guidelines that need to be followed from the moment the grapes enter the winery to when the wine is bottled,” adds Buchsbaum.

To be considered kosher, Sabbath-observant Jews must supervise and sometimes handle the entire winemaking process, from the time the grapes are crushed until the wine is bottled. Any ingredients used, including yeasts and fining agents, must be kosher.

When kosher wine is produced, marketed, and sold commercially, it will bear kosher certification granted by a specially-trained rabbi who is responsible for supervision from start to finish.

Hello Fall

Fall in North Carolina arrived on September 23. You wouldn’t know if by the thermometer, which was registering sultry temperatures in the high 80s. Undaunted by that, we gathered a group of friends for a special dinner to welcome autumn.

Although we’re not Jewish, we’ve come to appreciate the wines of Israel and the improving quality of kosher wines in general. For our dinner, we sampled: Herzog NV Lineage Momentus, USA; Netofa 2016 Latour Red, Israel; Chateau Royaumont 2016 Lalande de Pomerol, and Mt. Tabor 2018 Chardonnay, Galilee.

For our dinner, my wife, the Green Dragon, whipped up a culinary masterpiece. We started the festivities (of course) with bubbly. For the appetizer, we had chicken liver paté and spicy eggplant caviar on bruschetta. We popped open the Herzog Lineage Momentus. Once the wire cage was removed, I noticed the cork started inching itself out of the bottle – it should have been a warning. I popped open the bottle and the foaming froth, although quite festive, splashed onto the floor.

A Perfect Bubbly Pairing

Paté and sparkling wine are a spot-on pairing, and this was delicious. The Momentus, which has a reasonable SRP of $20, is off-dry. That pinch of sweetness helped make it a perfect pairing.

Our next course featured the Mt. Tabor Chardonnay with Cream of Cauliflower & Fennel Soup, along with a salad of Fall Lettuces with Pear and an Asiago Crisp. This Chard is unoaked – just how we like it. There are notes of apple and melon, and some citrus too. A very tasty wine with an SRP of around $15.

Our next course was a masterwork that required two bottles of red: the 2016 Chateau Royaumont 2016 Laland de Pomerol and the Netofa 2016 Latour Red from Israel. The main course was Pan-Seared Hanger Steak with Porcini Merlot Reduction Sauce & Roasted Fingerling Potatoes. I can only assume that the smashing success of this dish was due to the outstanding way I sliced the potatoes (since the Green Dragon did everything else!).

A Pair Of Reds

The Chateau Royaumont is a Right Bank Bordeaux wine, meaning it is Merlot-centric. In this case, the blend is 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. It’s outstanding. The body is light with polished flavors of cherry and raspberry. The tannins are dialed back and the Merlot swirls with a silky finish. It’s a complex and balanced wine that retails for about $38.

Netofa has a more robust take on a red blend with its Latour. This is a Rhone-style blend of Syrah and Mourvedre. It has hearty flavors of dark cherry and briar with a foundation of earthy notes. The tannins, enhanced by aging in oak barrels, can stand up well with grilled meats or even wild game. The cost is about $27.

We wrapped up our dinner with assorted chocolates as we sipped red wine. The evening continued as more corks popped open and flames flickered on the tiki torches on the patio. Many thanks to our dinner guests Connie, Cecil, Laure and Jeff who helped us savor and critique these excellent wines.

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Willamette Valley Overflows with Dining and Lodging Options

Shrimp and Stoneground Provolone Grits with King Estate Willamette Valley
Pinot Gris at Oregon Electric Station - Photos by Dave Nershi

Planning a trip to Oregon Wine Country? Here's where to stay and eat.

By Dave Nershi, CSW – Publisher

Willamette Valley is a slice of wine heaven nestled 30 miles south of Portland, Oregon. Oregon is the fourth largest producer of wine in the US. Most are small, family-run operations that produce less than 5,000 cases yearly.

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The lush valley, is 150 miles long and 60 miles wide, and produces some of the best Pinot Noir in the world. Its agricultural bounty includes hazelnuts as well as hops for the burgeoning craft beer industry. Whether you are visiting Oregon Wine Country’s more than 500 wineries or taking in its other many attractions, we’ve got the scoop on where to stay and eat.

The good news is this scenic locale is overflowing with great lodging and dining options. There is something for every budget and every palate. Here are some top picks from our recent visit.

Abbey Road Farm features silo sleeping accommodations

You've Never Stayed Anywhere Like This Before

Abbey Road Farm in Carlton is home to the Silo Suites Bed & Breakfast. The farm has goats, sheep, chickens and ducks and some of the most unique sleeping accommodations you’ll find in the region.

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The five suites are in three recommissioned grain silos and feature foam topped beds, Jacuzzi tubs, luxurious bedding and ambient floor heating. Breakfast by innkeepers and chefs Eric Bartle and Sara Kundelius is sumptuous. Enjoy selections such as huckleberry pancakes, Porchetta and breakfast frittata – prepared beautifully in cozy surroundings with a scenic view.

A salmon starter at Subterra in Newberg

Within a short drive from Carlton is Subterra – A Wine Cellar Restaurant in Newberg. Subterra is a noteworthy dining experience in an unruffled, relaxing cellar setting. Service is impeccable and the wine list is award-winning. The menu is a masterful mix of classic and Northwest contemporary cuisines with an emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients.

You can warm up your palates with small plates such as melted brie and maple bourbon fig jam and the devilishly good crispy pork belly confit with ginger pineapple relish.

Entrée choices includes cassoulet, the hearty French white bean stew, and Seafood Zarzuela. The wine list has ample variety to perfectly pair with each dish. Two selections we especially enjoyed were the 2017 Illahe Willamette Valley Gruner Veltliner and the 2014 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir, McMinnville.

Dining In Dundee

Dundee is the location for two other standout dining picks. The Babica Hen Café buzzes with activity and serves up breakfast until 2 o’clock, with eight different waffle choices including Banana Chocolate Crunch and Lemon Berry Almond Crumble. Lunch, featuring an assortment of salads and filling sandwiches, and dinner are also served.

Dundee Bistro spaghetti with halibut

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The Dundee Bistro is a gourmet delight that is part of the Ponzi family enterprise that includes Ponzi Vineyards. The bistro menu includes superb pasta dishes and acclaimed pizza as well as classic cocktails, microbrews, Italian coffee and an inspired wine list with an emphasis on local Pinot Noir.

Try the oyster of the day with apple and shallot mignonette sauce for starters with the 2017 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Gris and finish with the Cascade Natural New York Steak and a hearty red. For a glass of wine with friends, try the adjoining FratelliPonzi Food & Wine Bar and browse the selection of artisan foods including the FratelliPonzi extra virgin olive oil from Michel and Rebecca Ponzi's estate in Italy overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

McMinnville Top Lodging Picks

Youngberg Hill is a premier Willamette Valley destination

You can indulge yourself at Youngberg Hill, a wine country inn and vineyard in McMinnville. Perched on a hilltop with sweeping views of rolling vineyards, the inn is part of a 50-acre estate. The on-premises tasting room features award-winning wines from the organically farmed estate vineyards.

The inn features nine luxuriously furnished guest rooms, many with panoramic views. The breakfast room and wrap around deck are ideal for watching the sun rise over the vineyards. Breakfast selections may include savory French toast or their famed salmon hash.

Quality is impressive with the Youngberg Hill wines. Don’t leave without picking up a bottle of the Aspen Chardonnay and Jordan Pinot Noir. The inn is convenient to 100 different wineries and tasting rooms in Willamette Valley.

Luxurious accommodations at the Atticus Hotel

If you prefer to stay in historic McMinnville, consider the Atticus Hotel. This boutique hotel opened in Spring 2018 and provides a luxury option within walking distance to 18 tasting rooms and 35 restaurants in this vibrant small town. The Atticus rooms feature fireplaces with handcrafted mantles, original pieces from local artists and enough panache to make your stay a memorable one.

An attractive dining option in downtown McMinnville is The Barberry. Located on “America’s Favorite Mainstreet,” the restaurant sources 95% of its ingredients locally. Its mission is to become the best restaurant on the West Coast and it’s the place to come whether you dress up or go casual.

Elegant dining at The Barberry in McMinnville

The menu includes fresh seafood and steaks as well as oysters on half-shell year-round. Wine pairing meals are available, and the wine list is award-winning. The Barberry is also known as a Great Bourbon Bar of America. It has a collection of 225 whiskeys and bourbons. Upstairs the 1882 Grille has a rooftop deck and 15 beers on tap.

Eugene? You Bet

Stellar food and lodging make Eugene a must-visit destination at the southern end of Willamette Valley. The Inn at the 5^th is a AAA 4 Diamond award winner located within the historic 5^th Street Public Market. With complimentary wine upon arrival, a fireplace in your room, and luxurious amenities, you may never want to leave this urban resort. If you do, you are only steps away from a wine tasting room and boutique shops and eateries.

Inn at the 5th is an urban resort in Eugene

A nearby dining favorite is the Oregon Electric Station, located in a 1912 former train station. It’s easy to get on board with their standout seafood, beef and pasta dishes. Try the Shrimp & Stoneground Provolone Grits with a glass of King Estate Pinot Gris for a perfect pairing. Finish up with the Peanut Butter Bar, with layers of ganache, peanut butter and Oreo cookie crust.

A stylish omelette at Marché 

For French-inspired cuisine, Marché is just steps away from the Inn at the 5^th. The menu is based on foods you would find at a farmers market, with the emphasis being fresh and local. Get a jump start on your morning with a breakfast of croissant French toast with caramelized bananas, toasted coconut and crème fraîche. With a cup of Coffee Plant Roaster espresso, you’ll be ready to face the day.

Whatever your plans, there’s a bounty of dining and lodging opportunities in Willamette Valley. For additional information, check the resources at the Willamette Valley Visitors Association.

Bistecca alla Florentina and Il Poggione 2016 Rosso di Montalcino

Sangiovese and a juicy steak is a marriage made in heaven. So with an uncorked bottle we fire up the grill to cook a famous Italian dish.

Bistecca alla Florentina

Bistecca alla Florentina is an Italian dish with English roots. In the early 19th Century, the English settled in and around Florence and introduced new cuts of beef, including the T-bone and porter house steaks. Bistecca alla Florentina, or Florentine steak, was born.

The cut is a porterhouse of T-bone with as large a fillet (tenderloin) as possible. Most of the Bistecca alla florentina sold in Florence is Spanish Beef. The meat should be kept at room temperature for 10 hours or so before grilling. Traditionally, the thickness should be “three fingers.” We ordered our 1 1/2 inch-thick bone-in porterhouse (about 3.5 pounds) from Pat LaFreida online. The meat was cut and shipped in an ice-gel pack and never frozen.

Trial By Fire

The traditional Tuscan Bistecca alla Florentina recipe calls for cooking over charcoal, preferably hardwood. Since I have a natural gas grill, that wasn’t an option.

I cranked the grill up as hot as it has ever been, in the neighborhood of 650 degrees. We were going on faith in the recipe, since I’ve never cooked a large steak like this before.

After about 7 minutes I flipped it to the other side using tongs, as opposed to a fork, which would release that precious juice. On the seared side I poured some Il Poggione olive oil and Tuscan sea salt.

When the other side was done, I flipped the steak on end for a few more minutes before entering into the house triumphantly. It was a monolithic masterpiece!

Wine Pairing Perfection!

We’ve enjoyed some superlative wine pairing dinners over the years, but the pairing of the Il Poggione 2016 Rosso di Montalcino and the bistecca was off the charts. The meat was smoky and the charred crust and juicy meat exploded with flavor. “That chef was truly amazing.”

Our meal was accompanied with roasted broccoli and potatoes. We had a nice loaf of crusty Italian bread with an olive oil dipping sauce.

Rosso di Montalcino is sometimes called a “baby Brunello” after the highly regarded Brunello di Montalcino. The Il Poggione Rosso is 100% Brunello (the local name for Sangiovese). The wine is matured for 12 months in large oak barrels before undergoing bottle aging.

This is a silky wine with flowing flavors of red berries and sour cherry. The oak aging provides a welcome structure. To have a bite of steak in your mouth and sip in the Rosso di Montalcino was euphoric.
The Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino has an SRP of $27.

When you can enjoy it with a beautiful steak it is priceless!

Full disclosure: We received the wine as a marketing sample and the steak was provided gratis.

Technorati Tags: Sangiovese,Italian wine,recipe,wine tasting

Three Rivers Winery, Walla Walla: A Wine And Culinary Experience

Like the rivers for which it is named, Three Rivers Winery was flowing during our recent visit. The streams of premium wine were accompanied with superb culinary creations.

The Mystery Winery Revealed

One of the highlights of the Wine Bloggers Conference, held last month in Walla Walla, Washington, is the mystery bus tour. You line up and hop into a vehicle not knowing where you’ll end up. It’s a good surprise because your final destination will be a winery.

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This year instead of a rickety school bus, we were whisked away by limo to Three Rivers Winery. It was an evening of not-soon-to-be-forgotten wine, food and frolicking.

Three Rivers is named for three of the three most prominent rivers in Eastern Washington: Columbia, Snake, and Walla Walla. It was founded in 1999 and is best known for wines made with red Bordeaux grape varieties. It is part of the Foley Family Wines group, which includes a number of prominent California wineries and a trio in the Northwest.

The winery is set on a knoll overlooking surrounding vineyards and nearby Mill Creek. The building includes the production and storage facility, a tasting room and private meeting room. We met winemaker Holly Turner on the expansive porch and enjoyed a glass of the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc.

A Culinary Tour De Force

Our group of about 20 stepped inside the tasting room, which features vaulted ceilings, a stone hearth fireplace, and rustic timber beams. Notes of jazz wafted from a trio as we surveyed a table adorned with grape vines and so many wine glasses that we knew something special awaited.

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Turner began her winemaking work at Chateau Ste. Michelle before heading to Argentina to work at Bodega la Rural. It was her experience there that triggered her interest in Malbec. Under her guidance, Three Rivers has earned dozens of 90-plus scores in the wine press.

The Pacific Northwest is known not only for standout wine, but a vibrant food scene. Executive Chef Matt Antonich was equal to the stellar lineup of wines, presenting a five-course meal of succulent treats.

The wines for the evening are limited production, like most are in Walla Walla, with the majority being under 150 cases. While we enjoyed an excellent 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Three Rivers estate vineyard, the bulk of grapes come from some of the top vineyards in the Columbia Valley, such as Bacchus, Gamache, Seven Hills, Sagemoor and Weinbau. The fine-tuned blending of different grapes and vineyards is truly exceptional.

While reds from Washington State generate the most buzz, let’s give the white wines their proper due. After enjoying the refreshing, floral Sauvignon Blanc, our first course was pan seared Saffron Scallops over Alaskan king crab risotto and Reserve Chardonnay saffron beurre blanc served with the 2016 Reserve Chardonnay.

I would have considered it a fantastic evening if I only had the first course and the Chardonnay! The Chard blended magnificently with the scallops, remaining delicate with just the right oaking.

Later our dinner would be bookended with another white, the 2017 Riesling finished in steel with 3.7% residual sugar paired with a poached green Bartlett Pear served with – get this -- huckleberry mousse and a dollop of vanilla bean Frangelico cream.

Enter The Entrées

The red wines and the culinary team flexed their muscles with the three middle courses – each served with two wines. Our Rocky Mountain Elk Chop was served atop Asian short rib fried rice with a huckleberry Malbec gastrique and a fresh chanterelle elk demi-glace. This amazing dish was paired with the 2015 Walla Walla Syrah and 2016 Malbec. The Syrah dazzled with raspberry, dark fruit and cocoa. It has 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to add to the intrigue. The Malbec shows the high potential for the grape in the Columbia Valley.

After an interesting intermezzo called Lemon Herb Bees Knees (an adult slush mixed with lemon, herbs, local honey and gin) we were treated to the next course: Cabernet Braised Lamb Shank. This dish featured blue cheese corn grits, roasted butternut squash and toasted black truffle squash seeds. Coincidently, this is what we typically have around our house on Tuesdays – as if!

Two Cabernets were poured for the lamb. The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is from the Three Rivers estate winery and the 2015 Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon is from the Seven Hills Vineyard. Deep rich and dark, each was a powerful and perfect match for the meat.

Although it sure didn’t taste it, the next dish was meatless Impossible Mole Empanadas. Impossible Burgers are a meatless sensation that feel, taste and even “bleed” like burgers, but are plant based. The empanadas were served with classic red mole, tomatillo verde, and a chipotle lime sour cream.

For this Southwest style dish, two superb reds were featured. The 2015 Svelte is a 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot Blend. The 2016 Trivulet is a 51% Cabernet Franc, 49% Merlot blend. These two wines illustrate why Three Rivers is known for the mastery of blends. The Svelte has coffee, cocoa and spice notes and won over the dinner table immediately. The Trivulet is a treat with blueberry flavors washing over a smooth texture.

This was an astonishingly wonderful wine dinner. Although far from New Orleans, it reminded me of the Cajun world lagniappe, which means giving something extra. Four courses would have been outstanding; our chef went above and beyond and served five. One outstanding wine with an entrée would have been expected and welcome – but we had two premium wines instead!

Bravo Three Rivers! This is a winery to visit and the wines are to savor and buy repeatedly.

Technorati Tags: Wine Bloggers Conference,Walla Walla Valley,Washington State wine,Cabernet Sauvignon,Malbec,Syrah,Chardonnay,wine,wine tasting

Rías Baixas Albariño Impresses With White Wine Artistry

Albariño is Spain’s greatest white wine. It’s home is in Rías Baixas in the northwestern region of Galicia. We uncorked 11 bottles to learn the secrets of this refreshing grape.

Albariño Extravaganza

When we were invited to participate in an online tasting of Albariño from Rías Baixas, we were all in. Albariño is one of our favorite white wines and my visit to Rías Baixas a couple years ago etched memories of lush landscapes, stormy seas and friendly people. We had just one problem.

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The virtual tasting, courtesy of Rías Baixas Wines and Snooth, the popular online home for wine lovers, featured 11 bottles. That’s a daunting task, even for us. So the invitations went out for an evening of Albariño. Our dinner party totaled 11 persons, forming a neat symmetry with our 11 bottles. (No, we didn’t sit there and each drink a bottle!)

Culinary treats were provided by our guests and the Green Dragon. The Green Dragon prepared broiled octopus (pulpo) and a seafood paella. Our top-chef guests brought a multitude of treats including crab cakes, bacon-wrapped figs, Spanish olives, Manchego cheese, salad and Galician almond cakes. I was focused on my critical tasks: chilling down the wine and uncorking and unscrewing the bottles.

Sipping The Best Of Spain

Some people go ga-ga over an oaky bottle of Chardonnay. That’s not our palate profile. Oak can cover a multitude of sins and tends to blot out the fresh and delicate fruit of a white wine. So, we love white wines with crisp flavors, minerality and a minimum of oak aging.

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I had six bottle stashed in the refrigerator and the rest in a cooler of ice. Rob provided a random number and that was the bottle I poured. That worked fine until about wine number six, when I realized we’d be tasting wine until a week from Tuesday. From that point on I offered a choice of two bottles at a time, and the guests could circle back to try the second one.

There were a number of take-aways from our wine dinner. First, Albariño is a versatile wine that pairs magically with seafood. I had a steady diet of octopus while in Spain, and the charred octopus was a brilliant pairing. Many of our guests hadn’t tasted Albariño before and so there were several who discovered a new favorite wine. The third insight is that winemaking techniques, different growing areas and (in some cases) blending can create surprising differences in the wine.

Most of what we tasted were 100% Albariño, but a pair from the O Rosal growing area featured a blend of Albariño, Loureiro and Caiño. Most have a lower alcohol percentage than typical wine at about 12.5%, which helps it be more food friendly.

Tale Of The Taste

Here are our tasting notes from our Rías Baixas event (with growing region and SRP):

1. Condes dei Albarai (Val do Salnés) - $15 Given a “we like” thumbs up from our group, the Albarai uses vines older than 20 years and has tropical fruit notes.
2. Bodegas As Laxas (Condado do Tea) - $18 Offers nice fruit on the back of the palate. Fresh flavors of apple and apricot.
3. Don Pedro de Soutomaior (O Rosal) - $18.99 Named for a noble Galician warrior and knight whose victories were attributed to rising early. Lipsmacking good with smooth flavors of green apple. Great packaging!
4. Pazo Señorans  (Val do Salnés) - $25 This was my favorite.Aged five months on the lees, this has a complexity and herbacious, grassy notes that elevate it.
5. Valmiñor (O Rosal) - $18.99 A 100% Albariño from O Rosal. Melon and grapefruit flavors.
6. Señorío de Rubiós Robaliño. (Condado do Tea) - $18 This was an early favorite with our group. Great acidity and vivid flavors of citrus and peach. A top pick.
7. Altos de Torona (O Rosal) - $20 This was the number two top choice. It’s bottle is most distinctive and has flowing flavors of green apple. Good acidity (a bit too much for some guests).
8. Nai e Señora (Val do Salnés) - $15.57 Nai is a tribute to contemporary women. That and its stylish label made it a favorite with all the women who started singing “Nah na na na, hey hey hey, good bye! Tropical and aromatic.
9. Fillaboa (Condado do Tea) - $20 Good acidity with elegant flavors of pineapple and citrus.
10. Paco & Lola (Val do Salnés) - $21.99 A distinctive polka dot label and irresistible flavor palate of citrus and intense tropical fruit make this a favorite.
11. Terras Gauda (O Rosal) - $23.99 Here is the O Rosal blending at its best. There is fruitiness from Albariño, intense aromatics from Loureiro and structure and exotic fruit notes from the Caiño.

Albariño from Rías Baixas is a perfect wine for warm weather sipping or pairing with your casual meals, particularly seafood. The cost is wallet-friendly. Our bottles started at $15 and topped out at $25 – not bad for one of the world’s best white wines. Snooth is offering a special deal on Albariño and you can find it here. It is also widely available in wine shops. Don’t forget the octopus!

Technorati Tags: Albarino,Spainish wine,white wine,wine tasting

Southeast Asian Vegan Feast A Tasty Test For Wine Pairing

Sweet, sour, salty and spicy – Southeast Asian cuisine can be all that in one bite. So when we hosted a vegan dinner with dishes from that region, the challenge was on to find just the right wines.

Asian Adventure On A Hot Plate

Hiking through the rainforests of Southeast Asia, driving a motorbike on the jungle roads of Vietnam, splashing in the waters of a pristine beach. It all sounds idyllic. Of course it does – unless you are the somewhat nervous parent of the young lady doing it all!

Our daughter Rachel returned jet-lagged, but safe and sound from her recent trip halfway around the globe. She not only had loads of stories and photos from her trip with her boyfriend Jason, but returned with a taste for the savory flavors of the region.

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Rachel is a vegan baker and chef with baking and cooking experience around the US, especially in locations with ski boarding slopes. Now she’s launching her own enterprise called Earth N Oven. Following her return from abroad, she presented an evening of food, wine and conversation for our party of eight.

What Wine Goes With Fermented Soybeans?

Any chump can find the proper wine to pair with juicy steak (bold Cabernet Sauvignon). How about picking a wine to pair with a Spicy Lao Cucumber Salad and Green Mango Salad from Thailand? That was one of the challenges facing me as I looked over the plant-based menu developed by Rachel that featured dishes from Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Indonesia.

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This was a creative enigma I was ready to unravel. Two things were in my favor. First, the Indonesian Tempeh Satay was going to be marinated and then cooked on the grill – giving it a hearty (dare I say) meat-like character. Second, I had ordered some white wine online and one of the bottles was a French Petit Manseng from Jurancon, a sweet wine that would pair well with our dessert.

Versatile Vegan Openers

T

he meal planning was orchestrated by Rachel and much of the work was done the evening before. As the appointed hour neared, the Green Dragon and her sister Janine were chopping, slicing, cleaning and providing support. Meanwhile, I was watching a very important basketball game… (NO, that’s a joke, I was assisting also.)

Our arrival wine was the 2016 Andreola Valdobbiadene
Prosecco Superiore Más de Fer. This is a “rive” wine, with the village name designated on the bottle. It paired with the Vietnamese Mushroom Pho which was garnished with peppers, bean sprouts and greens.

The crisp Prosecco had notes of honeysuckle and apple and provided the right contrast with the soup. This was a great pairing – to the extent that I soon needed to open a second bottle of Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, this one from Grandi Mori.

The next dish – a pair of spicy Asian salads – was a treat for the eyes and mouth. From Laos and Cambodia, the two salads offered a delightful mix of textures, color and flavors including mango, cucumber,peanuts and grape tomatoes. My pairing choice was the standout 2016 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc from Hanna. It had just the right blend of acidity and bright flavors of melon and lime.

Cambodian and Indonesian Eats

The evening belonged to Rachel and her fantastic dishes. My small culinary role was to broil the tempeh outside on the grill. I did the job masterfully, if I do say so myself.

The grilling was done so well someone seeing a photo on Facebook thought that some meat sneaked in to the vegan-only happening. The Indonesian tempeh was skewered and served over absolutely delicious pineapple fried rice or, as I like to call it, Nasi Goreng Nanas.

This was the heartiest of the plant-based dishes on the program, so I dialed up a superlative red to go with it. The choice was the 2009 Lorenzi Estate Zinfandel Signature Series Reserve, from Temecula. When we visited Temecula a couple years ago, this was, hands-down, the best wine we tasted. It is an epic wine with majestic notes of raspberry and blackberry with waves of vanilla. This was decanted and enjoyed to the last drip.

Our group was loving the food and the vino. Tales of adventure from Southeast Asia were related by Rachel. The tapestry of varied foods, cultures and people were reflected well in beautifully prepared and presented dishes.

The Best Pisang Goreng Ever

For the closing act, we enjoyed a sweet treat. Fried Banana served with date caramel and whipped coconut cream was paired with the golden yellow 2015 Domaine Nigri Jurancon Toute une Histoire Petit Manseng.

I hadn’t realized this was a sweet wine when I purchased it online – but I was glad I had, because I had no other dessert type wines on hand. It turned out to be a blissful pairing. The bananas were incredibly delicious and the Petit Manseng had just the right sweetness level to work with the dessert.

Picking the wines for a plant-based meal is tricky, but very rewarding. Thanks to Rachel Nershi of Earth N Oven, her sous chefs, and all our guests for the event. The beauty, flavor and downright healthiness of the meal was amazing.

Technorati Tags: vegan,foodie,wine and food pairing,Zinfandel,Sauvignon Blanc,Prosecco