Champagne Region Targets Sustainability In Face Of Changing Climate

Infographic courtesy Champagne Bureau, USA

Will climate change impact your bottle of bubbly? Champagne growers move toward sustainability.

Earlier Harvests Recorded

At a time when it seems the global fight against climate change is more urgent than ever, the Champagne region of France remains committed to sustainable development in winemaking. The houses and growers of Champagne are actively engaged in innovative techniques and initiatives to reduce their carbon footprint and mitigate environmental harms related to climate change. With Earth Day around the corner, pop  a bottle of bubbly and check out this information about sustainability efforts in Champagne.

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Global warming is a local reality for Champagne. As you may have heard, the 2018 harvest season was the fifth time harvest began in August in the last 15 years. While great for grape yields, bumper harvests also signal a changing climate that winemakers must adapt to.

Champagne Leads The Way

In 2003, Champagne was the first wine-growing region in the world to conduct a carbon footprint assessment. The resulting carbon plan has enabled the region to reduce the emissions generated by each bottle of Champagne by 20 percent over the last 15 years. Currently, Champagne wineries also treat and reuse 100 percent of their wastewater and treat and recycle 90 percent of their industrial waste.

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Champagne’s sustainability goals include lowering its total carbon footprint 75 percent by 2050 and using zero herbicide products by 2025. One hundred percent of Champagne vineyards have committed to continuous improvement and there is optimism that these goals are attainable.
More than 20 percent of the Champagne vineyards have already been environmentally certified, and 15 percent are certified in sustainable viticulture. This number is expected to grow as the region works toward reaching the goal of 100 percent environmental certification by 2030.

Rodney Strong 2015 Upshot, Sonoma County

This red blend from Sonoma packs a surprise. A white grape is part of the mix. Can you guess which one?

Rodney Strong Upshot - Photo by Dave Nershi

Dance Of The Grapes

Rodney Strong Vineyards began 55 years ago when celebrated American dancer Rodney Strong embarked on a second creative endeavor: winemaking. Through the years Rodney Strong has earned recognition for exceptional single vineyard and reserve wines. Though its portfolio covers the high end quite nicely, Rodney Strong recently debuted a reasonably-priced, fun red blend – Upshot.

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By my reckoning, the majority of US red blends are Bordeaux-style blends made mostly with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

The percentages of each will vary and other grapes will be added in too. In California there is a wealth of Zinfandel, the closest thing we have to an “American” grape (although it’s actually an ancient Croatian variety). The upshot of this is, well, wines like Upshot.

And The Mystery Grape Is…

The Zinfandel for Upshot comes from Rodney Strong’s Hubbard Ranch vineyard. It makes up 44% of the blend with 29% Merlot, 15% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 5% Riesling. All the grapes are from Sonoma County, with the majority from Alexander Valley and Knights Valley.

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Surprising to us was the addition of Riesling, a white grape. Some of the finest Rhone wines are made with Syrah with a dash of the white Viognier. In this case, the Riesling adds the fun and some floral aromatics. This also contributes to a silky texture.

On the palate Upshot is rich with dark cherry notes and black fruit. There is a bit of spice. Upshot has a healthy 14.5% ABV, which contributes to a full body. The tannins are dialed back and the finish is lingering.

For a $28 SRP, this is a slice of the good life in California’s wine country. Upshot is a tremendous choice to pleasantly surprise guests at the next dinner party – or to pop open for some casual sipping if you can’t wait that long.

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Willamette Valley Overflows with Dining and Lodging Options

Shrimp and Stoneground Provolone Grits with King Estate Willamette Valley
Pinot Gris at Oregon Electric Station - Photos by Dave Nershi

Planning a trip to Oregon Wine Country? Here's where to stay and eat.

By Dave Nershi, CSW – Publisher

Willamette Valley is a slice of wine heaven nestled 30 miles south of Portland, Oregon. Oregon is the fourth largest producer of wine in the US. Most are small, family-run operations that produce less than 5,000 cases yearly.

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The lush valley, is 150 miles long and 60 miles wide, and produces some of the best Pinot Noir in the world. Its agricultural bounty includes hazelnuts as well as hops for the burgeoning craft beer industry. Whether you are visiting Oregon Wine Country’s more than 500 wineries or taking in its other many attractions, we’ve got the scoop on where to stay and eat.

The good news is this scenic locale is overflowing with great lodging and dining options. There is something for every budget and every palate. Here are some top picks from our recent visit.

Abbey Road Farm features silo sleeping accommodations

You've Never Stayed Anywhere Like This Before

Abbey Road Farm in Carlton is home to the Silo Suites Bed & Breakfast. The farm has goats, sheep, chickens and ducks and some of the most unique sleeping accommodations you’ll find in the region.

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The five suites are in three recommissioned grain silos and feature foam topped beds, Jacuzzi tubs, luxurious bedding and ambient floor heating. Breakfast by innkeepers and chefs Eric Bartle and Sara Kundelius is sumptuous. Enjoy selections such as huckleberry pancakes, Porchetta and breakfast frittata – prepared beautifully in cozy surroundings with a scenic view.

A salmon starter at Subterra in Newberg

Within a short drive from Carlton is Subterra – A Wine Cellar Restaurant in Newberg. Subterra is a noteworthy dining experience in an unruffled, relaxing cellar setting. Service is impeccable and the wine list is award-winning. The menu is a masterful mix of classic and Northwest contemporary cuisines with an emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients.

You can warm up your palates with small plates such as melted brie and maple bourbon fig jam and the devilishly good crispy pork belly confit with ginger pineapple relish.

Entrée choices includes cassoulet, the hearty French white bean stew, and Seafood Zarzuela. The wine list has ample variety to perfectly pair with each dish. Two selections we especially enjoyed were the 2017 Illahe Willamette Valley Gruner Veltliner and the 2014 Coeur de Terre Vineyard Heritage Reserve Pinot Noir, McMinnville.

Dining In Dundee

Dundee is the location for two other standout dining picks. The Babica Hen Café buzzes with activity and serves up breakfast until 2 o’clock, with eight different waffle choices including Banana Chocolate Crunch and Lemon Berry Almond Crumble. Lunch, featuring an assortment of salads and filling sandwiches, and dinner are also served.

Dundee Bistro spaghetti with halibut

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The Dundee Bistro is a gourmet delight that is part of the Ponzi family enterprise that includes Ponzi Vineyards. The bistro menu includes superb pasta dishes and acclaimed pizza as well as classic cocktails, microbrews, Italian coffee and an inspired wine list with an emphasis on local Pinot Noir.

Try the oyster of the day with apple and shallot mignonette sauce for starters with the 2017 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Gris and finish with the Cascade Natural New York Steak and a hearty red. For a glass of wine with friends, try the adjoining FratelliPonzi Food & Wine Bar and browse the selection of artisan foods including the FratelliPonzi extra virgin olive oil from Michel and Rebecca Ponzi's estate in Italy overlooking the Adriatic Sea.

McMinnville Top Lodging Picks

Youngberg Hill is a premier Willamette Valley destination

You can indulge yourself at Youngberg Hill, a wine country inn and vineyard in McMinnville. Perched on a hilltop with sweeping views of rolling vineyards, the inn is part of a 50-acre estate. The on-premises tasting room features award-winning wines from the organically farmed estate vineyards.

The inn features nine luxuriously furnished guest rooms, many with panoramic views. The breakfast room and wrap around deck are ideal for watching the sun rise over the vineyards. Breakfast selections may include savory French toast or their famed salmon hash.

Quality is impressive with the Youngberg Hill wines. Don’t leave without picking up a bottle of the Aspen Chardonnay and Jordan Pinot Noir. The inn is convenient to 100 different wineries and tasting rooms in Willamette Valley.

Luxurious accommodations at the Atticus Hotel

If you prefer to stay in historic McMinnville, consider the Atticus Hotel. This boutique hotel opened in Spring 2018 and provides a luxury option within walking distance to 18 tasting rooms and 35 restaurants in this vibrant small town. The Atticus rooms feature fireplaces with handcrafted mantles, original pieces from local artists and enough panache to make your stay a memorable one.

An attractive dining option in downtown McMinnville is The Barberry. Located on “America’s Favorite Mainstreet,” the restaurant sources 95% of its ingredients locally. Its mission is to become the best restaurant on the West Coast and it’s the place to come whether you dress up or go casual.

Elegant dining at The Barberry in McMinnville

The menu includes fresh seafood and steaks as well as oysters on half-shell year-round. Wine pairing meals are available, and the wine list is award-winning. The Barberry is also known as a Great Bourbon Bar of America. It has a collection of 225 whiskeys and bourbons. Upstairs the 1882 Grille has a rooftop deck and 15 beers on tap.

Eugene? You Bet

Stellar food and lodging make Eugene a must-visit destination at the southern end of Willamette Valley. The Inn at the 5^th is a AAA 4 Diamond award winner located within the historic 5^th Street Public Market. With complimentary wine upon arrival, a fireplace in your room, and luxurious amenities, you may never want to leave this urban resort. If you do, you are only steps away from a wine tasting room and boutique shops and eateries.

Inn at the 5th is an urban resort in Eugene

A nearby dining favorite is the Oregon Electric Station, located in a 1912 former train station. It’s easy to get on board with their standout seafood, beef and pasta dishes. Try the Shrimp & Stoneground Provolone Grits with a glass of King Estate Pinot Gris for a perfect pairing. Finish up with the Peanut Butter Bar, with layers of ganache, peanut butter and Oreo cookie crust.

A stylish omelette at Marché 

For French-inspired cuisine, Marché is just steps away from the Inn at the 5^th. The menu is based on foods you would find at a farmers market, with the emphasis being fresh and local. Get a jump start on your morning with a breakfast of croissant French toast with caramelized bananas, toasted coconut and crème fraîche. With a cup of Coffee Plant Roaster espresso, you’ll be ready to face the day.

Whatever your plans, there’s a bounty of dining and lodging opportunities in Willamette Valley. For additional information, check the resources at the Willamette Valley Visitors Association.

Blue Rock Wines Deliver Old World Style And Memorable Taste

Blue Rock Vineyard Wines - Photo by Dave Nershi

Blue Rock Vineyard was first settled by Italians who worked at a nearby winery. The winery maintains that Old World character and even the original olive trees, which are now more than 140 years old.

Sonoma Smooth

Over the last oh-so-many years of uncertainty in the world, one thing has remained sure: Baby Blue is a remarkable Sonoma blend. I first discovered this sterling Blue Rock Vineyard wine during a board meeting in Orlando.

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As executive director, I was in charge of making dinner arrangements and selecting the wine. Baby Blue, a blend of the five five Bordeaux grapes plus Syrah, caught my eye and was ordered up for the notoriously thirsty board members.

Baby Blue was silky smooth and, at less than $30 (although liberally marked up at the restaurant), was an astounding value. Since then, we’ve enjoyed this wine frequently.

Beyond Baby Blue

We recently had the opportunity to taste three current releases and one was quite a surprise. I like Blue Rock for a number of reasons. Paramount is the great wine and I also dig the minimalistic packaging. Elegant, clean and striking – like the Blue Rock wines.

New Orleans crayfish with Blue Rock Cabernet
Sauvignon and Baby Blue Blanc

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Until recently, I’ve thought of Blue Rock mainly as a red wine producer, but they have white wine in their portfolio. For the first time, we tasted a Blue Rock white wine – the 2017 Baby Blue Blanc. This is a blend of 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier.

We popped open the Baby Blue Blanc and the 2015 Cabernet at our Mardi Gras party. Lesson One: Baby Blue Blanc goes quite well with crayfish and other spicy Cajun food!

This is a clean, precise wine. The acidity is softened by the Viognier, which also adds some nice aromatics. Barrel fermentation and whole cluster pressing give a nice complexity.

It’s an appropriate partner for the original Baby Blue – approachable and each glass beckons another. It retails for $24.

Baby Blue’s Big Brother

Blue Rock Cabernet is an impressive wine. Get this. The 2015 Cabernet is 98.9% Cabernet Sauvignon with less than 1% each of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, Malbec and Syrah. I’m not sure what 0.05% of Malbec contributes, but who am I to argue with the delightful final results?

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There were 934 cases produced. Grapes all come from the Blue Rock estate vineyards in Alexander Valley.

Blue Rock Cabernet Sauvignon is more substantial that its Baby Blue sibling. There is an emphasis on dark fruit, blackberry and cola. The tannins are silky and so this wine is ready to drink now or age for a few years. SRP is $49.

The 2016 Baby Blue is a blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 6% Syrah, 6% Malbec 5% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The pieces fit together for a wine that is impressive with rich flavors and a sinfully smooth texture.

Blue Rock Vineyard wines are memorable and the perfect pick for your next special occasion.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

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Dry Creek Vineyard 2014 The Mariner, Dry Creek Valley

A blind tasting reveals The Mariner as a top pick among red blends.

The Captain Wore A Mask

When it was our turn to host the local wine group’s tasting we decided the theme would be red blends. A fun twist to the tastings is that these are done blind. We usually feature four different wines.

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Dry Creek Vineyard 

I selected Tannat blend from Uruguay, a Super Tuscan and a Washington State Merlot blend. For the fourth spot, I rotated three different wines. One was a Bordeaux and the other two were from California. Each wine was snuggled inside a cloth sack with a letter: W, I, N or E.

This was the perfect opportunity to share one of our favorite wines – The Mariner from Dry Creek Vineyard in the Dry Creek Valley region of Sonoma

Navigating Great Flavor

The Mariner is a proprietary blend that Dry Creek Vineyard debuted in 2004. Like a mariner keeping the ship off the dangerous rocks during a billowing storm, so a winemaker has to successfully navigate through the ups and downs of a vintage. In the case of 2014, Sonoma was experiencing the third year of the California drought. Although the grapes ripened at sugar levels lower than normal, the fruit tasted beautiful. In December, well after harvest, the winery had 20 inches of rain in less than two weeks – a welcome relief.

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Our red wine blind tasting lineup

The 2014 blend for The Mariner is 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 9% Merlot, 8% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. That’s the highest percentage of Cab I’ve tasted in a Mariner.

The poor blend from Uruguay and even the Super Tuscan were completely blown out of the water, so to speak, by The Mariner. The Mariner gave a good broadside of complex spice flavors woven with dark, rich fruit.

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The tannins of the 2014 The Mariner give enjoyable structure and the promise of an even more beautiful wine in five to eight years. The Mariner is aged in French and Hungarian oak, 40% of it new, for 19 months.

The Fuquay-Varina Wine Tasting Group

With an SRP of $50, we consider The Mariner to be a standout value among quality California reds. We suggest laying a few bottles down to age. If you don’t have the patience, that’s fine because it drinks beautifully right now. We suggest decanting for 45 minutes or so.

Tasting blind or with eyes wide open, our tasting party guests are ready to join The Mariner’s crew. One bottle and we think you will be too.

Full disclosure: This wine was received as a marketing sample.

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Australia Vacation: Daintree Rainforest

The Daintree Rainforest, on the northeast coast of Queensland, Australia, is part of the oldest continuously surviving rainforest in the world.

Famed Clohesy River Fig Tree

Journey Through The Past

The second leg of our recent Australian trip was in Queensland. We had a free day before heading to Adelaide, so we decided to go really “old school” and visit the Daintree Rainforest.

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The rainforest, named for Richard Daintree, an Australian geologist and photographer, covers 460 square miles. It is a beacon of biodiversity, with a dozen families of primitive flowering plants and seven ancient fern families. Within the refuge of the rainforest, many of these plants maintain their ancestors’ primitive characteristics.

We booked our tour with Discovery Tours Australia and our tour guide Warren showed up with another couple in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. This is how we like it. No giant tour buses with megaphones and scads of tourists – just a small group splashing and bumping along the backroads of an ancient forest.

Daintree Rainforest

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While rainforests cover only about 2 percent of the world’s surface, they include about 50 percent of the species found on earth. Humans rely on rainforests to produce most of Earth’s oxygen. One tree produces about 260 pounds of oxygen a year. The fresh oxygen during our trip was energizing.

Along The Rainforest Road

Our first stop was an overlook of Barron Falls to observe where the Barron River cascades down craggy rock formations. The viewing point is reached by a short trail that passes by a variety of trees and ferns, including the giant King Ferns, a prehistoric species that grows up to 16 feet tall.

The road we were on ranged from a nice wooded path with a shaded canopy of trees and Emerald Doves flittering to and fro. Occasionally it was reduced to a muddy mess blocked by streams one to two feet deep. As responsible passengers we urged Warren to splash through the creeks and gun it up the steeper slopes.

Our highlight was a hike on the Clohesy River boardwalk to view the soaring strangler fig trees. These trees shoot their roots downward while also growing up toward the top of the forest canopy. They envelop the host tree and sometimes, as in the case of the giant we saw, kill it. This leaves a central cavity. In the case of the Clohesy strangler fig, it is big enough to provide a shelter for sleeping or a campfire. Of course, that’s not encouraged.

Mist rises in Daintree Rainforest

It’s easy to see how this tree could be the inspiration for the Tree of Life in the movie Avatar, a tidbit related by Warren. Just off the boardwalk, we could view a large earth mound that serves as a nest for the peculiar looking Australian Brush Turkey that we earlier saw along the road.

A Glimpse Of Prehistory

Laughing Kookaburra in an old gum tree

Sunlight filtered through the towering trees and ferns and exotic bird calls sounded from from somewhere in the foliage. The air was damp and fresh with wisps of mist rising skyward. It is easy to picture this as a prehistoric landscape.

As we emerged from the shade of the rainforest, we stopped at Copperlode Dam, where a scenic lake provides the water supply for Cairns. In the eucalyptus tree the Laughing Kookaburra had a perfect vantage point overlooking a beautiful Australian vista.

Daintree Rainforest is a World Heritage site and an outstanding attraction in the Cairns area of Queensland. It’s inspiring, rejuvenating and a reminder why stewardship of our earth’s resources is increasingly important.

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Vilarnau Delivers Unique Cava Flavor And Style

It’s hard to choose just one favorite sparkling wine, but if pressed, we’d say Cava. Here are two new top Spanish picks.

Sparkling Style

One of the reasons we love Cava is that this sparkling wine is made in the traditional method, just like the famous bubbly from Champagne. Having visited Spain and the famed Cava region of Penedès, we also are fans of the people and the modern style that permeates all aspects of life there.

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The Vilarnau family settled in Penedés in the 12th century and has been producing Cava since 1949. It is a small, artisan operation with a winery interior designed by artist Antonio Miró and the outside displaying clean, modern design.

When we opened the package from Vilarnau Cava, it was a delight for the eyes. The two Cava were special Trencadís editions, with splashy and spectacular labels.

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Trencadís is a mosaic created from tiny fragments of broken ceramic tiles, roof tiles or pottery. It was used in the modernist artistic movement in Catalonia. The Vilarnau Trencadis editions certainly should win an award for their design –  if they haven’t already.

Cava Under Cover

You can’t judge a book by its cover – or wine either. The impressive art did put smiles on our faces even before we popped the corks, though.

Romance and rosé from Vilarnau

We sampled the Vilarnau Rosé Delicat Brut Reserva and the Vilarnau Brut Reserva. The Brut Reserva is made with 50% Macabeo, 35% Parellada and 15% Xarel-lo. These are the three classic varieties used in Cava, although others have also been approved for use.

This is a wine with a lovely froth and dry finish. There is a creamy texture with a hint of citrus. Both bottles are Reserva wine, meaning it must be aged for at least 15 months and be no sweeter than Brut. The Brut Reserva retails for $14.99.

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The Rosé Delicat is quite different from the Reserva Brut. It is made with 85% Garnacha (known in other places as Grenache) and 15% Pinot Noir. Upon sipping, this reminded me of the Spanish approach to rosé. The wines are often called rosado and have a deeper color than the light salmon color seen in rosé from France’s Provence region.

Like rosado, this has a more powerful fruit flavor than you might expect. It has an intense strawberry flavor mingled with floral notes. This is mixed with the delightful bubbles that tingle and tease. It was a perfect pour for Valentine’s day and, I would suggest, any other romantic evening.

These bottles are perfect sips of Spanish style. They add good taste and beauty to any occasion.

Full disclosure: We received these bottles as a marketing sample.

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