Portuguese wine has earned worldwide acclaim. The country’s Port wine is rich with history and lush flavors, and the bold reds of the Douro Valley are memorable. The wines of the sun-drenched southern coast of Portugal’s Algarve region, as we were to discover, have irresistible charms of their own.
Setting the Scene: The Coastal Charm of Carvoeiro
The Algarve stretches along Portugal’s southern edge, with limestone cliffs, sea breezes, and a thoroughly natural landscape that welcomes you and mellows the mind. After flying in from Porto, we stayed in the quaint coastal town of Carvoeiro, at the Pestana Palm Gardens. The town is known for its beach, famous boardwalk, and striking sea caves.
Our plan included three wineries with lunch in Estômbar tucked in. First on our list was Morgado do Quintão. Unlike the US, where billboards herald nearby wineries and carefully placed signs guide you along, we trundled along in our rental car, kicking up dust from the bouncy dirt roads and relying on our GPS and good fortune to find our destination.
Morgado do Quintão: Ancient Vines and History in the Shade of Ancient Olive Trees
Morgado do Quintão has twice won the Revista de Vinhos award for Best Wine in Portugal, considered the Oscars of the wine world in Portugal. It was one of the first vineyards in the Algarve to export to the US, and is served at several 3-star Michelin restaurants.
Our tasting was set in a courtyard underneath massive olive trees, one of which is an impressive 2,000 years old. In dappled sunlight beneath the blue Portuguese sky, we tasted our first wine as chickens strutted by.
The 2024 White is 100% organic and made with Crato Branco, a grape that thrives in hot climates. The bright yellow wine is dry with light floral notes and hints of the sea.
Palhete is a traditional Portuguese wine wherein red grapes are co-fermented with a small amount of white grapes, producing a light red wine. It is a rustic style of wine now very much in fashion. The grapes are Negra Mole plus Crato Branco. Negra Mole is a thick-skinned grape thought to be a cross between Pinot Noir and Grenache. Some believe the grape got its start in the Algarve.
Copper orange in color, the wine is finished in stainless steel. It features muted fruit notes and a lively acidity.
The 2024 Clarete features grapes from the second-oldest Negra Mole vines in Portugal. Grown in sandy clay soil close to the ocean, the resulting wine was outstanding. Low in tannins and medium-bodied, this wine is light in color and delivers strawberry and red currant flavors with a touch of spice at the finish. Like many Algarve wines, it is low in alcohol (12%) and is a perfect match with white meat and fish entrees, especially sardines.
The 2021 Castelão was the most engaging wine in our visit and the flagship wine for Morgado. Castelão is a black-skinned grape that can produce both rustic wines and age-worthy bottles. Firm tannins were noticeable, along with deep notes of plum and currant laced with tobacco accents. Deep ruby in the glass, this wine has a long, balanced finish.
Our delightful tasting was €30 per person and included the wines plus regional breads, estate olive oil, and a refreshing afternoon next to the vineyard.
A Detour Through Estômbar: Dust Roads and a Riverview Oasis at Casa do Rio
We booked a late-morning tasting at Morgado do Quintão, so we had a couple of hours to find lunch in nearby Estômbar. Kicking up a vortex of dust and gravel, we set out. The countryside is unspoiled by things like billboards or... road signs. As a result, we frequently had to pause and ask ourselves, is this even a road? Bush branches whacked our windshield and side while we traversed ditches and rocks that looked ominous from our tiny rental sedan.
Upon arriving in Estômbar, we headed to the address I had Googled for our lunch destination. We inched down a narrow one-way street with cars parked on both sides. Our intended cafe didn’t look so good. There was no sign of activity, and although Portugal is extremely safe, I would have wanted a beefy-looking companion to enter the place.
Through random turns and blind luck, we arrived at a real gem, Casa do Rio. This is a superb restaurant with a spectacular view of the Arade River. It provided a true fine dining experience with stylish surroundings, top-notch food, and attentive staff. I enjoyed an Ovos Moles com Presunto (sweetened eggs with ham) appetizer and my wife dined on a succulent salmon entree. We could have spent the afternoon there – but more wineries beckoned.
Quinta dos Vales: Where Winemaking Meets Monumental Sculpture
Quinta dos Vales was easily the most eclectic winery we visited during our whole Portugal escapade. What began as a fruit farm in the 1940s, growing lemons, limes, and oranges, started growing grapes in the 1980s, with the wine mostly sold in bulk.
A lasting imprint was made on Quinta dos Vales when Karl Heinz Stock, a German entrepreneur, sculptor, and designer, bought the estate. Today, the landmark winery fuses wine and monumental outdoor sculpture. We booked the winery tour and tasting (€36 pp).
The climate at Quinta dos Vales is mild with very sunny conditions, resulting in beautiful, fruit-forward wines. There are 22 hectares under vine, with the white grapes being harvested in August and the reds in September. All the harvesting is done by hand. Reds get nine to 18 years in Hungarian oak, American oak being deemed too heavy.
Selecta White is a “terrace wine” made with Alvarinho, Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Castelão. This is a nice citrus/green apple sipper.
The 2024 DUO Rosé features two well-known Portuguese grapes. Touriga Nacional brings the black fruit and spice, while Touriga Franca is milder, creating a nice balance. This light salmon colored wine pairs well with shrimp, salad, or pizza.
The next wine was the Grace 2017 Touriga Franca. The Graces are the sculptor’s pride and joy, abstract statues of rotund, naked women that playfully dance around the winery grounds.
Although I’ve had a good share of Touriga Nacional wine, Touriga Franca was new to me. It is rare to have a single varietal Touriga Franca, and this was a dazzler. Deep violet in color, it weighs in at 14% ABV, shattering my view of Algarve wine as being lightweight. It has substantial tannins with luscious black raspberry and plum on the palate.
The 2016 Grace features Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional. In a country and region where Cabernet Sauvignon is nearly invisible, Alicante Bouschet fills the leading role admirably. It’s a grape that needs plenty of sun exposure, and the Algarve is amply blessed in that regard.
This wine is a “wow,” with its very dark ruby color leading you into a complex, dense palate of ripe dark fruit, dark chocolate, and spices. It’s an intense, silky wine and a steal at €24.90.
Stock sees wine and art as both needing patience, precision, and creativity. The artful grounds and distinctive wines deliver those qualities in spades.
Off again we raced to Quinta do Francês, our final stop for the day.
Quinta do Francês: French Influence and Schist Soils in the Odelouca Valley
Quinto do Francês is a scenic, peaceful winery located in the Odelouca Valley. The soil is schist, which retains heat, drains well, and imparts mineral characteristics in the wine. The winery was founded by Patrick Agostini, a doctor who graduated from the University of Bordeaux. The French influence is evident in the choice of grapes cultivated, including Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.
We enjoyed the casual vibe, which included not having to make a reservation. The Odelouca White, which is a Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend, began our tasting. This is a light, smooth wine with pear and pineapple notes.
My wife is a Sauvignon Blanc fanatic, so we tried the Quinta do Francês version. Unfortunately, this wine was unremarkable.
To wind up our day of tasting, we enjoyed one of the finest wines of the day: the 2023 Quinta do Francês Vinho Tinto. It’s a red blend of Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira, and Aragonês. Aragonês is also known as Tempranillo, and Trincadeira is a Portuguese red grape that is also used in Port production.
The Vinho Tinto is deep ruby in the glass with flowing red fruit flavors, floral notes, and spice. This is an expressive and elegant wine that gains from extended oak aging (up to 20 months). Like all the wines at Quinta do Francês, this is reasonably priced at €16.
From our perch overlooking the vineyards, with bottles of wine spread out before us, we could have settled in for hours. Sunset was approaching, though, and it was time to be homeward bound.
Tasting wine in the Algarve is an invitation to experience ancient grapes and traditional winemaking methods. Whether you prefer light, subtle wines that reflect the sun-drenched seashore, or complex, elegant bottles that reveal deeper character, it’s all here in the Algarve. The warmth of Portuguese hospitality and the region’s stunning settings combine for an experience that lingers long after your last glass.
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