Montepulciano Wine Showdown Highlights Beauty Of This Italian Grape

An epic wine throwdown showcases an Italian grape you shouldn’t overlook.

Battle Of The Wines

When Dathan Kazsuk and Jen Primrose host a wine tasting, it is not to be missed. They are the creative forces behind Triangle Around Town, the popular website that features wine, beer, food, and travel with an emphasis on North Carolina and the Raleigh area. The theme on this occasion was Montepulciano.

Never Miss A Beat – Follow Vino-Sphere On Facebook

Montepulciano is the second most widely-planted red grape in Italy. It’s second in parade order behind Sangiovese. Montepulciano is gaining a foothold in the US and in North Carolina as well. The Old North State has at least a couple of wineries that specialize in Italian varieties and do a bang-up job: Raffaldini and Piccione.

This was a blind tasting of six Montepulciano wines paired with pizza – which is a highly rated food and wine combination. A couple other great wines were worked in as well.

First of all, it’s difficult to dislike any bottle of Montepulciano. The most famous area for Montepulciano is the Abruzzo region in central Italy. In fact, all the “Monte” was from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC with one exception. Arthur and Mary Barham (of Merlot2Muscadine) brought a shining example from North Carolina. I almost committed a major error. As I grabbed a bottle for the tasting from the top shelf at the wine shop, I mistakenly latched on to a bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This was a rookie mistake that I’ll blame on rushing. Vino Nobile is actually a Sangiovese clone that comes from the town of Montepulciano. In an ironic twist, no Montepulciano grapes are grown in the town of Montepulciano.

Here’s the breakdown from this momentous tasting, shown in the random order we tried them.

Masciarelli “Marina Cvetic” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2017

Keep up with the latest. Follow us on Instagram!

This was the only Italian Riserva we tasted. Riserva Montepulciano must be aged for at least three years with six months of that spent in oak barrels. Cherry notes prevailed with medium tannins that added a drying element. It is an elegant and relaxed wine with violet highlights. The finish was short. SRP $21.99. Panel ranking: 5 of 6.

Raffaldini Montepulciano Riserva 2015, Swan Creek

Coming from a famed North Carolina winery, this was also the highest-priced bottle at $35. Its flavor was in contrast to the other five wines, with an aggressive, zingy intensity. Some of that may have to do with the 15.10% ABV. The wine is deep and dark, perhaps due to Raffaldini’s use of the appassimento process of using partially dried grapes. Great tastes of raspberry and spice. Panel ranking: 3 of 6.

Dragani Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2019

Ruby and purple in the glass, this has tastes of dark fruit and a bit of spice. This was much lighter than the two wines we tasted prior. This wasn’t impressive and, in fact, was sort of “blah.” SRP $13.99. Panel ranking: 6 of 6.

Torre Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017

Deep garnet color in the glass with a light rim variation, this wine really demonstrated great balance. Torre had a slightly sour and tangy taste of black cherry and plum. There’s also a touch of baking spice. I found this to be a nice pairing with our vegetarian pizza. SRP $12.99. Panel ranking: 4 of 6.

Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2019

At this point in the tasting, I don’t think anyone could pronounce “Zaccagnini,” luckily we were tasting it blind so this was good ol’ Number Five. Opaque ruby in the glass, this one provided sizzle and tang on the palate. The flavors are bright and carefree red fruit and crushed cherries. The finish is dry and smooth. A young wine, but aging could make it even better. SRP $16. Panel ranking: 2 of 6.

La Fiera Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2020

This is a medium-light-bodied wine that’s deep ruby-red in color. There is a fruity aroma and a sour cherry palate. The tannins and alcohol are dialed back in this pleasant sipper. SRP $9. Panel ranking: 1 of 6.

Montepulciano Musings

First, major thanks to Dathan and Jen for hosting the tasting and rounding up the lion’s share of the wine. This was a fun exploration of a great grape. The results were eye-opening. First, the group really enjoyed the North Carolina Montepulciano and recognized it as being different from all the other Monte wines. I actually rated it as my second favorite.

The other takeaway is that price isn’t everything when selecting your wine. The top-ranked wine was the least expensive. Even though I rated it as my least favorite, it captured enough points from the other panelists to rise to a first-place position. For the record, I selected the Torre Montepulciano as my top pick, just edging out Raffaldini. The Torre is only $12.99, so there are plenty of bargains out there for Montepulciano.

Montepulciano is a great pick for a smooth red Italian wine without the extremes of heavy tannins or jarring acidity. Not only is it an easy-to-like grape, but the price tag is easy to swallow as well.

Sunshine Bay 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

Sometimes we drink glamorous wines and other times…

Living The High Life

One of my friends frequently expresses that he is envious of my role as a wine writer and a reviewer of some really great wines. How I wish his imaginings were true.

Keep up with the latest. Follow us on Instagram!

We aren’t chauffeured around in a limo to a private jet that flies us to exclusive wine galas where ultra-premium wine flows like water. I don’t lounge around all day in a tuxedo sipping grower champagne from the finest crystal. If only.

While we do get to taste and write about some really wonderful wine, there are times when the Green Dragon roars and demands that we stock up on inexpensive, everyday vino. Her drink of choice while soaking in the tub is Sauvignon Blanc.

That brings us to our wine of the day: Sunshine Bay 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region. This fell into the shopping cart at Aldi. At $7.95, if it were a complete bomb, it wouldn’t be too much of a loss.

Three Winning Wine Regions

I put Marlborough in the same category as Willamette Valley in Oregon or Horse Heaven Hills in Washington. It’s not that they share similar climates or soil – but rather that just about every bottle that comes out of these regions is a winner. Marlborough has about two thirds of all the grapevines in New Zealand. Most of it is Sauvignon Blanc, but the region is also the largest grower of Pinot Noir in the country.

Never Miss A Beat – Follow Vino-Sphere On Facebook

Just like Provence locked into the flavor formula for rosé, New Zealand perfected the taste profile for Sauvignon Blanc that captured a massive world market. Sunshine Bay sticks to the playbook and has produced an entirely drinkable wine that differs little from wines two or three times the price.

This is a wine that doesn’t deceive the sniffer. One smell of the cut grass aroma tells you this will be a classic Marlborough Sauv Blanc. It’s pale straw in color and almost certainly is aged strictly in stainless steel to keep the fresh bouquet and bright flavors. On the palate, you get a heaping helping of acidity that combines with the grapefruit flavor to deliver the trademark zing. There are also some floating peach notes.

The body is medium with an ABV of 12.5% keeping things light and lively. It’s a dry wine but rewards you with some nice fruit. This works well on its own or is a fine pick with shellfish, barbeque chicken, or chicken fajitas.

Sunshine Bay is a steal at $7.95. If you are looking for different expressions of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, check out French Sancerre or California. Chile also has some unique tasting Sauvignon Blanc and is right-priced.

These Romantic Red Wines Won Our Hearts

Want to be loved on Valentine’s Day? Open one of these four bottles.

If there is any day that calls for wine and roses, it’s Valentine’s Day. Or wine and chocolates, or wine and a gourmet dinner, or… you get the picture. Wine! We present to you four wine styles and four great wines to make your romantic evening a success.

Kara-Tara 2019 Pinot Noir, Western Cape, South Africa

We love Pinot Noir for special dinners. It is less bulky than say a Cabernet Sauvignon and has nuanced flavors that can pair well with salmon or lighter meat entrees. This Pinot Noir from South Africa comes with a twist. The grapes are sourced from three vineyards in the Western Cape, including Elgin. The vines are dry farmed (no irrigation) and 20% of the wine was whole-bunch fermented. We like that process (where the grape clusters aren’t destemmed) as it gives more complexity.

Never Miss A Beat – Follow Vino-Sphere On Facebook

In the glass, the wine is a pale ruby. On the nose, there are earthy aromas. When I first had this wine a year ago I had to check the label. It is so unique I had to make sure I was sipping Pinot Noir. On the palate strawberry and cherry components are evident along with earthiness and tea leaf. The attention-grabber is the chord of peppery spice, which I’ve never had in a Pinot Noir before but which is typical of Elgin. SRP $21.99.

Tinto Negro 2017 Limestone Block Malbec, Tunuyan-Mendoza

Soft, juicy and wonderful, Malbec is almost a no-brainer when it comes to selecting a wine loved by all. This Argentinian Malbec from the famed Mendoza region pushes all the right buttons. The vines come from an elevation of 4,000 feet at the foot of the Andes. The soil has rocky patches and a subsoil of round rocks, which give the wine a unique character.

Keep up with the latest. Follow us on Instagram!

In the glass, this is a purple of medium depth with a light rim variation. On the nose, there are wafts of jamminess. Sipping provides the mineral flavors imparted by limestone, plus delicious red fruit and sweet notes of oak. This is a dry wine with floral accents provided by a dash of Cabernet Franc in the mix. An all-around winner at $21.99.

Boekenhoutskloof 2019 The Chocolate Block, Swartland, South Africa

A great pick for your romantic meal is a Bordeaux-style blend (usually Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cab Franc) or a Rhone blend (Syrah and Grenache). The Chocolate Block has a special place in our hearts. We first tasted it while on safari in South Africa at a private camp near Kruger National Park. Being surrounded by wild animals always makes the wine taste better!

This wine leads with Syrah (71%) and Grenache (11%) but isn’t a true Rhone-style blend as it includes Cabernet Sauvignon. Cinsault and Viognier are also in the mix. Viognier is a white wine, but some amounts are sometimes added to Rhone wines for the aromatics.

The wine is deep garnet in color. This is a big wine both in terms of alcohol (14.5%) and tannins. It opens with flavors of plums and cocoa. Included in the spectrum of flavors are oak, dried herbs, and smoke. The flavors are intense but focused with layered elegance and a nice long finish. Of our four recommendations, this has the biggest body, and so would pair perfectly with a juicy steak. This safari-tested wine has an SRP of $37.99.

Borgo Scopeto 2018 Chianti Classico

For an outstanding dinner partner, all you really need to know is the Black Rooster. That is the symbol of Chianti Classico wines, crafted primarily from Sangiovese in the historic heart of the Chianti region. It is a wine that pairs perfectly with your pasta and Italian entrée. We paired this wine with Eggplant Parmigiana and Tortellini di Torino from a local Italian restaurant.  

The wine has intense flavors of cooked cherry with ample vanilla notes. Oak highlights the dry and elegant finish. There is plenty of fruit here and a smooth body. Chianti Classico is one of our “go-to” wines and this one is eminently pleasing. SRP is $20.99.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

Exploring Obscure Grapes Has Its Rewards

Break out of your comfort zone with an exotic exploration of unique grapes.

A number of years ago I decided to join the Wine Century Club. To join, you must document tasting at least 100 different grape varieties. Luckily for me, I was able to review my blog, which I’ve been publishing since 2009, and was able to generate a list of more than 150 grapes that I’d tasted. I was quite proud when my certificate (finally!) arrived.

Keep up with the latest. Follow us on Instagram!

I’ve always had a soft spot for the underdog and that goes for many things, including sporting events and grapes. Finding and tasting a new grape is the equivalent of hacking your way through the Amazon jungle to find the ruins of an ancient civilization. OK, maybe it’s not quite the same, but it certainly is cool. We recently went exploring and discovered two fine wines sporting exotic grapes.

If it weren’t for the loss of life and property, I’d be applauding volcanic eruptions. That smoke and brimstone means more volcanic soil, causing the grapevines to struggle and produce truly sublime wine. A case in point is Italy’s Mount Etna. Mount Etna is an active volcano and it erupted last year. It is one of the world’s most active volcanos and injured 10 people and a CNN news crew in 2017.

Never Miss A Beat – Follow Vino-Sphere On Facebook

Mt. Etna also has some very unique grapes, including Carricante and Catarratto, which were blended in the Etna Bianco DOC Ayunta 2019 Piante/Sparse we recently tried. Carricante is the native and main grape in Etna white wines. White wines are less than 10% of the production of the Etna DOC, so this wine is a rarity. Catarratto is the most popular white wine in Sicily but traditionally plays just a supporting role in Etna white wines. The wine is golden in color and a bit lean. It has good acidity, fresh minerality on the nose, and subtle pear and chalk notes. Wine from high-altitude vines and volcanic soil is always unique and always a treat. The SRP is $32.99.

On the red side of the tasting table was Weingut Leo Hillinger 2019 Small Hill Red, from Austria’s Burgenland region. Burgenland is famed for its red wines and is in contrast to the rest of the country where white wines, particularly Gruner Veltliner, rule. St. Laurent is a highly aromatic dark-skinned grape. It is believed to have resulted from a crossing of Pinot Noir and an unknown second parent. St. Laurent also played a role in another grape we love: Zweigelt, which is a cross between St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch.

This is a velvety-smooth red wine which we could easily drink all day. It has ample blackberry flavors with juicy red cherries and just a dusting of earth. The tannins are polished. Quite a steal at $14.99.

Both wines were purchased at Great Grapes in Cary. Thanks to Arthur and Mary Barham for joining the fun.

If you’ve gotten in a rut, drinking the same old grapes, we encourage you to explore the wide and wild world of grapes.

Vintage Sonoma County Pinot Noir An Elegant Experience

Sonoma County wine shines in these two bottles of Pinot Noir.

A Tale Of Two Regions

There’s nothing like Pinot Noir to accompany a meal, sip by itself, or just to ward off the wintertime blues. We recently opened two bottles of single-vineyard Sonoma County Pinot Noir from two regions – one we know well and one that’s new to us.

Keep up with the latest. Follow us on Instagram!

Russian River Valley is one of our favorite wine regions and the Pinot Noir from there is extraordinary. When we last visited Sonoma a few years ago, we stopped at Balletto and tasting their wonderful range of wines.

Sonoma’s Russian River Valley earned AVA status in 1983, and comprises 15,000 vineyard acres. By far, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel top the charts in this region. The heart-shaped AVA doesn’t follow the path of the Russian River exactly, but reflects a sweet spot that’s cool, but not too cold.

Balletto Vineyards started as a vegetable farm in 1977. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s additional land was purchased and by 1994 it was the largest vegetable farm in Northern California – producing more than two million cases of vegetables per year at its peak.

After weathering several storms and foreseeing California’s growing water shortage, John and Terri Balletto made the decision to convert to grape growing. Wine grapes are less water-dependent than other crops. We’re quite glad they made the change. Today Balletto produces 20,000 to 25,000 cases of premium wine.

Rugged And Remote

The Fort Ross-Seaview AVA was carved out of the larger Sonoma Coast AVA in 2011. It is remote and rugged and few of its wineries are open to the public. It does produce some of Sonoma County’s most sought after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Although just a few miles from the chilly Pacific, its 500 vineyard acres bask in warm sunlight and it is above the damp belt of fog that often covers the Russian River Valley.

Never Miss A Beat – Follow Vino-Sphere On Facebook

Wayfarer Vineyard was founded by acclaimed Napa winemaker Jason Pahlmeyer. After vintage upon vintage of powerful red wines, he became enchanted with Pinot Noir and the wines of Burgundy. Helen Turley, who made wines for Pahlmeyer, learned that Wayfarer, an organic farm on the remote Sonoma Coast was for sale. Pahlmeyer purchased it, completed planting in 2002, and released his first Wayfarer wine in 2014 (earlier wines were labeled Pahlmeyer).

Honestly, the price tag for Wayfarer Pinot is a bit above my usual range. I acquired it through Underground Cellars, where you make a purchase without knowing the specific bottles you will receive until after you make the purchase. (Although you will see the large listing of bottles from which your bottles will be selected.) I was really pleased when I learned I bought this beauty.

Balletto 2014 Pinot Noir Burnside Road Vineyard

Bright cherry flavors enhanced with lavender and violets. This is a medium-weight Pinot with spicy accents and a delicate finish. Pleasing oak lead into the finish.We were very pleased with the condition and this single-vineyard wine could have aged even more. It’s become even more beautiful than when we tasted it at the winery in 2018. There were 630 cases produced.

Wayfarer 2012 Pinot Noir Wayfarer Vineyard

We didn’t realize it at the time, but we were sipping history. This bottle is from the first vintage of Wayfarer Pinot Noir. It includes Jason Pahlmeyer’s signature on the label (just printed, not signed). This is a blend of the vineyard’s 12 clones. It offers black cherry and light oak with elegant fresh red berries. Dazzling from the first sip, it’s a lovely ride through the mid-palate, and right on to the end. The acidity keeps it vibrant and the minerality gives it an exotic allure.