Saturday, May 21, 2022

Dynamis Prepares To Open Doors To North Carolina’s Premier Luxury Winery


North Carolina wine lovers, get ready to take things up a notch! June 1 Dynamis Estate Wines will open their tasting room. 

Dynamis Wine Estate

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Driving up the curving roads to Dynamis Estate, the latest addition to the North Carolina wine scene, the sense of anticipation grows. We are in the Swan Creek AVA, which also includes such standout wineries as Shadow Spring, Raffaldini, and Piccione. The road to the top passes through fruit trees and immaculately groomed grapevines. Dynamis Estate Wines is located at the pinnacle, and that is the lofty place they hope to maintain both literally and figuratively.

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We were treated to a preview tasting at the Dynamis tasting lodge. The lodge is a historic building with beautiful views of the vineyard, and it will eventually be replaced by a new tasting room.

The estate is in the highest spot in Yadkin Valley, on the easternmost outcropping of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The tasting room itself sits at 1,650 feet. “To have a premium wine brand, you need to have a premium site,” said winemaker Mat Worrell. He handles winemaking duties along with Katy Kidd. Their task is an arduous one, to craft wines that are measured not against those in North Carolina, but the best in the nation.

Elevated Wine Experience

One of the reasons that the high elevation is so important, is that it allows longer hang time for the red grapes. One of the failings of some North Carolina reds is that they are unable to stay on the vine long enough to develop rich flavors. The slope provides excellent drainage, and the mountaintop breeze chases the humidity which might cause early ripening or disease.

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Dynamis offers a compelling white wine, a 2020 Sauvignon Blanc that is fermented in a concrete egg. It has tastes of apricot and peach with a creamy texture. The body is somewhere between the crispness of stainless steel and the warmer tones of oak aging. In my mind, it’s a great place to be. SRP $35

There will always be at least one white on the tasting menu, but the focus is on complex red wines. The 2019 Merlot opens with a delicious flavor of jam accented with herbal notes. This is no weak-kneed Merlot, but a full-bodied wine. SRP $50

Complex Red Wines

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is a bold wine, made using free-run juice. This is considered the very best juice that comes out of the grape press. Since no pressure is applied, you get the best expression of the wine and no harsh flavors that you get when the press presses harder and harder.

It ages for 22 months in new medium-char French oak barrels. The first impression is, “Wow.” The tannins are really beautiful and unexpected in a North Carolina Cabernet, which is one of the most difficult grapes to grow in the state. It has a touch of Petite Verdot (4%). It's elegant and powerful with vanilla and dark fruit. SRP $100

Dynamis will always have two red blends each year. The 2019 Alpha is a blend of Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet. This wine leads with red fruit. It’s a panorama of Dynamis vineyard blocks and winemaking techniques. A silky mouthfeel rolls into wild cherry, red currant, and vanilla. SRP $95

The pinnacle of Dynamis Estate Wines is the 2019 Mountain. It is the very best of the vintage with specially selected blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot grapes. It’s fermented in a combination of stainless steel and oak. Aging is done in oak barrels of various sizes and toast levels. It’s powerful and focused on black fruit with blackberries and toffee flavors. Dynamis is defined as limitless power and the might of the mountain is certainly harnessed in this bottle. The commitment to excellence in every step has resulted in a complex bottle seldom seen in North Carolina. It has a rich, savory finish. SRP $125 ($150 for the gold label first edition).

Like the wines, the premise of Dynamis is audacious. It seeks to offer only the best of the best for wine aficionados in North Carolina and beyond.

The Tasting Lodge is open 11 to 5 Wednesday through Sunday. Tastings are by appointment only. A 60-minute tasting of current releases is $45 per person. A guided 90-minute tasting with a wine ambassador is $55.

Friday, May 13, 2022

Dry Creek Vineyard Celebrates 50 Years Of Innovation And Excellence

Dry Creek celebrates with a special anniversary edition of its signature Fumé Blanc.

Setting Sail With Fumé Blanc

Years ago, before I had any notion of becoming a wine writer, I was perusing a shelf at a wine shop hoping to find something interesting for dinner. At that time, my definition of “interesting” included being reasonably priced.

I was attracted to a bottle with a boat with a billowing sail. It was Dry Creek Vineyard’s Fumé Blanc. My wine knowledge then was pretty limited and I didn’t even know what grapes were in it. Well, we loved it and this version of Sauvignon Blanc has been a staple for us ever since.

We aren’t alone in our love of Fumé Blanc and this year there is special cause for celebration. It’s the 50th anniversary of Dry Creek Vineyard.

Dry Creek Vineyard is one of the last, truly-private family wineries in Sonoma County. They consistently produce 90-plus rated wines.

The Roots Of Dry Creek Vineyard

It all began 50 years ago with David Stare and a dream. Stare traveled to Germany after completing his engineering studies. It was there he developed his interest in wine. Soon after his family spent two weeks in France, where he developed a love of Loire Valley and Bordeaux wines.

His path then led west to California where he discovered a rundown 55-acre prune farm in the Dry Creek Valley region of Sonoma County that was to become his dream location. He purchased the orchard and began planting the region’s first vines since Prohibition. Stare was determined to plant Sauvignon Blanc, despite the advice of several famed vineyard experts who warned that the variety was “inappropriate” for the region. He ignored the warning and plowed ahead and established an iconic and innovative Dry Creek winery. Today Sauvignon Blanc is the most widely planted grape in Dry Creek Valley.

Here’s a look at two 50th-anniversary Dry Creek Vineyard releases:

2021 Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County

Before even tasting a drop, you can tell that this is a special wine. On the reverse side of the front label is a drawing of the 1972 Fumé Blanc label. The front of the label has a nice embossed 50th-anniversary seal. The reverse of the back label has three historical photos.

While there are aromas of cut grass and grapefruit, don’t expect a New Zealand-style Sauvignon Blanc. Upon sipping, a lovely balance of acidity and tropical fruit is evident. Bright notes of tangerine and a cooling minerality keep you reaching for one more glass. This wine is our favorite California Sauvignon Blanc and at $16 it is an amazing value. I also place this in the “people pleaser” category: no matter your guests’ wine knowledge or palate, they are sure to love it.

2021 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg

There just isn’t enough good quality Chenin Blanc, like this bottle, to go around. If you only know Chenin from inexpensive bottles from South Africa or perhaps overly sweet Vouvray, you’re in for a treat. This wine reflects the Loire Valley-inspired roots and has been produced every year since the winery was founded. The grapes come from the Wilson Ranch in Clarksburg.

On the nose, there are melon and white blossoms. Finished in stainless steel, it is a refreshing wine, with flavors of peach and lemon. It has a soft texture and a lower ABV of 12%. Wonderful with seafood or as an aperitif, the SRP is $16.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

Friday, May 6, 2022

Overmountain Vineyard: North Carolina Winery Visit


This family winery proves to be a perfect oasis during our road trip through the mountains.

Wine Oasis At Overmountain

Tryon, North Carolina, is called the “friendliest town in the South.” We didn’t visit the town of Tryon proper, but our latest winery stop had a Tryon address – and we came away impressed.

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We were on the road to Asheville for a concert and a stay in a cabin. Wineries weren’t on the agenda, but after about three hours on the road, I became parched. I became especially thirsty when I saw the sign for Overmountain Vineyard.

Overmountain Vineyard is located on a 70-acre farm in the Tyron Foothills of Polk County. The focus is on handcrafted French-style wines made from their 18 acres of vines. The tasting room opened in 2010.

It was a radiant day with blue skies the shade of which you can only find in North Carolina. We rumbled up the driveway past impressive landscaping and rows of vines. A bit of apprehension hit when I saw “by reservation only.” Yikes! We had no way of knowing that just from the highway sign. I knew from its reputation that we certainly wanted to visit Overmountain and we were graciously shown a table on their covered patio.

Wildfire Alert!

I decided on a tasting while the Green Dragon opted for a glass of chilled rosé. My first wine was the 2020 Chardonnay. This is a crisp, unoaked (our preference) wine. Floral notes paired nicely with citrus and apple.

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The 2020 Wildfire Rosé was next. Although billed as a Provence-style rosé, this is made with Cabernet Sauvignon and so is a bit heartier than the French wine. Fleshy flavors of strawberry and kiwi combine in total refreshment. The wine on the inside is matched with a very cool label of a horse (with wildfire in its eyes).

Next in the tasting flight was Sofia, a white Port-style wine. It is named for Sofia Lilly, who along with her father Frank, handles the winemaking duties. Just recently I tried my first white Port and wanted to see how this one stacked up. This is fortified estate Petit Manseng. I found the flavors to be delightfully light with the accent on tropical fruit.

The only red I tasted was the Patriot Red and it was my favorite wine. A 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this dazzled us with succulent fruit and a smooth finish.

I will be chastised for this by my friend Arthur Barham (of Merlot2Muscadine), but I wasn’t looking forward to the last wine – a 2019 Muscadine. Mark, our very helpful tasting room server, quickly assured me that this was a dry Muscadine made from the Scuppernong variety. Well, he was right. The wine was light, dry, and cooling with a flavor that reminded me the the Labrusca wines made in Ohio and New York from Catawba and Niagara grapes.

May is North Carolina Wine Month, so this is the perfect opportunity to visit Overmountain Vineyard. You’ll be glad you did. PS – don’t forget the reservation!