The World’s Oldest Wine and a Georgian Supra

We host a celebration of Georgian food and wine with an Old World style.

In 2015, archeologists digging in a Neolithic site near the Republic of Georgia capital of Tbilisi, made a remarkable discovery. They unearthed ancient clay vessels called qvevri containing residue of grape seeds and juice that were radiocarbon dated to 6000 BC. It’s considered the oldest evidence of winemaking, earning Georgia the sobriquet of the birthplace of wine.

Eight thousand years later, the egg-shaped qvevri is still used to make wine, making 8,000 years of unbroken tradition. That’s worth celebrating, and we did during a recent supra, a traditional Georgian-style feast that blends food, wine, poetry, and philosophy into an unforgettable experience.

The supra was a collaboration with good friend Arthur Barham of Merlot2Muscadine. We previously partnered on an epic Judgment of Paris anniversary dinner. With input from Tom “Tommo” Williams of Eat This! wine tours in Georgia, with whom I worked on a webinar for the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association, we set about meticulously planning our supra.

Our dinner party of 12 included good friends well-known for high-level culinary chops. Each couple was assigned a traditional Georgian dish, which Arthur and I paired with a Georgian wine. We incorporated Tommo’s input from half a world away. 

The toastmaster and culinary guide for the supra is the tamada. He is the mood maker that keeps the energy flowing and sets the tone with heartfelt toasts. The tamada weaves in stories, humor, and even poetry. Arthur and I shared the role, using a stole around the neck to indicate who was the tamada.

Arriving guests were greeted with a special treat, an Arthurian Pomegranate Mimosa. The sparkler featured a frozen cylinder of pomegranate juice that released its chilled goodness as you sipped. Just perfect, as we learned about the history of Georgia, its wine, and its culinary roots. Pomegranates symbolize fertility, good fortune, and prosperity in Georgian culture.

The group enthusiastically learned the toast of Sakartvelos Gaumajros (Victory to Georgia!). I can still hear the shouts of Gaumajos (cheers) echoing in the house.

First Course

Kachapuri & 2021 Marani Gemieri White Blend, Kakheti

Diane and John Bomba

Kachapuri is Georgia’s beloved national dish. It’s a boat-shaped bread filled with cheese (Diane created a special blend) and topped with an egg. She finished toasting the bread to a golden brown and then sliced the bread, breaking the yolk, resulting in a gooey, comforting, heavenly bite. This was paired with the Marani Gemieri, a blend of Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Tsolikauri. This wine had a slight pop of fruitiness for a spot-on pairing. 

The first rule of supra is that no one drinks until the tamada toasts. Here is the toast for this course:

Let us lift our glasses to the One who gave us the vine and the grain, the wisdom to ferment joy, and the hands to shape khachapuri. May this wine from Kakheti reflect the light of His grace, and may this bread remind us that every meal is a blessing. To the Creator of flavor, fellowship, and feast—may His presence dwell among us as richly as this table. Amen and Gaumarjos 

Second Course

Pkhali & K’Deda Qvevri Dry Amber Wine, Tsinandali NV 

Diane and Gary Wessel

Pkhali is a vibrant and flavorful Georgian appetizer made from finely chopped vegetables blended with ground walnuts, garlic, herbs, and vinegar. Diane crafted this dish into a feast for the eyes. The rounded pkhali were sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. Qvevri wine can be tannic and oxidized. For almost all guests, this was the first taste of such a wine. The wine ferments on the seeds and skins, and in this case, yields a nice caramelized aroma. This wine is 100% Rkatsiteli. 

Toast: Let us raise our glasses to peace—not just the silence after storms, but the quiet strength that grows like herbs in the garden of our hearts. As we taste Phkali, may we remember that even the humblest leaf can nourish the soul. And as this amber wine from Tsinandali touches our lips, may it remind us that time and patience turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. To peace in our homes, in our country, and in our spirits. Gaumarjos!

Third Course

Kharcho & 2023 Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Saperavi Argo

Kathy and Dave Nershi 

This is a hearty Georgian soup that blends beef, special spices, rice, and a tangy plum or tomato base into a rich, comforting dish. Kathy used a tomato base, then added pureed plum as an accent. The deep, rich soup was a perfect partner for the Saparavi Argo. More than a year ago, I gifted this bottle to Arthur. I was captivated by the ceramic jug, which features two scenes from the Greek myth of Jason and the Argonauts. Jason’s quest for the Golden Fleece takes him to the eastern coast of the Black Sea, which is modern-day Georgia. This Saparavi is full-bodied with deep blackberry notes and earthy tones.

Fourth Course

Satsivi & 2022 Teliani Valley Tsolikouri

Natalie and Kyle Hampton

This classic Georgian dish features poultry and is served cold in a rich walnut sauce. Natalie chose chicken for this version. The green apple and tropical fruit of the Tsolikouri were a great counterpoint to the richness of the sauce. This was my first taste of 100% Tsolikouri, and I enjoyed the minerality.

Toast: Let’s drink to new life, joy, and the future of our children.

Fifth Course

Mtsvadi & 2022 Shumi Iberiuli Mukuzani & 2019 Marani Mukuzani

Arthur and Mary Barham

Mstvadi is Georgia’s answer to the ultimate grilled meat experience—a rustic, flavorful shish kebab that’s deeply woven into the country’s culinary soul. Arthur took this to an artistic level, presenting marinated pork tenderloin flavored with pomegranate molasses and garlic. It was served with pickled red onion in small cast-iron skillets. Mukuzani was first produced in 1888 and is one of Georgia’s most celebrated wines, considered the Grand Cru of Georgian reds. It is aged in oak barrels for at least three years. To quench our guests' insatiable thirst for premium red wine, I also uncorked the Marani 2019 Mukuzani, allowing us to contrast vintages. Both were exquisite.

Toast: To the women at our table and in our hearts—like Mukuzani, they are bold, refined, and unforgettable. As we raise our glasses before the fire-kissed mtsvadi, let us honor the warmth they bring, the wisdom they share, and the beauty they embody. May their laughter echo like the clink of crystal, and may their strength be as enduring as the vine. Gaumarjos!

Sixth Course

Medovik & 2023 Marani Tvishi 

Michelle and Bryant Harrison

Medovik is a classic Russian honey cake popular in Georgia. It's known for its delicate layers and rich, creamy filling. Michelle outdid herself with this decadent cake that was at least 10 layers, with a creamy filling and delicate texture. The magnificent cake was paired with Tvishi, a medium-sweet wine from Tsolikauri grapes. It’s known as Georgia’s “golden whisper of sweetness.” There are blossoms and tree fruit on the nose with pear and honeyed sweetness on the palate. It is elegant and delicate, with a long finish.

Toast: A guest is a gift from God—may our guests feel honored and welcome. Gaumarjos!

With the group properly sated with multiple toasts, good wine, and mouth-watering food, we were treated to impromptu poetry readings by Natalie and Bryant. They hadn’t known they would be reciting poems, but I like to keep guests on their toes! Bryant read Rivers of Memory, and Natalie treated us to Fields of Gold.

   

As a special bonus, Natalie had brought some homemade Georgian red wine from a church friend. It tasted delightful and well-made. She also brought a glass-stoppered flask that contained some clear spirit, chacha perhaps. Chacha is a clear, high-proof liquor distilled from grape pomace. This tamada wasn’t ready for such a high-test libation, so I continued to sip my Saparavi.

With lightning flashing and thunder booming, it was time for the final toast:

Let us raise our glasses one final time, not in farewell, but in honor of the moments we’ve shared. May the laughter echo beyond these walls, may the wine we’ve drunk nourish our spirits, and may the memories we’ve made tonight live long in our hearts. To friendship, to love, to peace – and to the road that brings us together again. Gaumarjos!