Kuhlman Cellars Elevating Texas Wine

Grapevines were planted in Texas more than 100 years before they were planted in California. Today the Lone Star State ranks fifth among US states in wine production.

Wines As Big As Texas?

Texas calls to mind barbecued brisket, rodeos and Lone Star beer. It’s not primarily linked with fine wines. Texas, though, is a surprising state. Its wine is too.

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We recently uncorked a couple of bottles from Kuhlman Cellars, a winery sitting on seven acres of vineyards in Texas Hill Country. Bénédicte Rhyne is the winemaker, with training in Burgundy and experience at Ravenswood in Sonoma.

With some warm North Carolina weather in January, I was anxious to fire up the grill. Some nice charred burgers seemed ideal for a wine from Texas. Our burgers were accompanied by root vegetable fries (parsnips, carrots, sweet potatoes and beets). Not sure how the parsnip fries would go over with the rodeo crowd, but they were a tasty treat for our meal.

Reserve Merlot With Angus Burgers

The 2016 Reserve Merlot has deep oaky flavors derived from 30 months in French barrels. The AVA is Texas High Plains, which covers eight million acres – and yet is just the second largest wine region in Texas. We found this paired famously with the expertly grilled (if I say so myself!) burgers.

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The Reserve Merlot, which has a production of 410 cases, is on the earthy side of the spectrum. There are notes of tobacco and graphite mingled with deep cherry flavors. As the wine unwound, our appreciation for it grew.

Riding high with the Longhorn spirit, we opened the 2017 Sangiovese. We found this to not be as well suited for my robust Angus burgers. The Sangiovese grapes come from the Newsome Vineyard, which sits at about 3,700 feet in the Texas High Plains. This is one of the most successful vineyards in Texas.

Even Better The Second Time ‘Round

The following evening we poured a couple of glasses of the Sangiovese. We were pleasantly surprised to discover we really enjoyed it much more the second night. The wine, a light ruby in the glass, was delicious. It is light to medium-light in body and has brilliant acidity washed with sour cherry notes.  We found this to be a very nice wine to sip on its own.

You won’t confuse this with Chianti Classico, but the Kuhlman Sangiovese has its own unique and enjoyable style. It’s a limited production wine with just more than 300 cases produced.

The Sangiovese is priced at $38 while the Reserve Merlot has an SRP of $34. While the two wines we sampled from Kuhlman Cellars use grapes sourced from Texas High Plains, the winery also has their own Hill Country AVA vineyard, which provided 27 tons of fruit this year.

Texas and Kuhlman Cellars are producing some eye-opening wines. Sip some of the Lone Star State and you’ll be impressed.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a media sample.

Top Barbecue Cities For 2020 Listed

While barbecue hotbeds rate high on the list, several unexpected cities make their case for BBQ cred.

When we moved from Ohio to North Carolina, we left a locale great for ethnic food and ice wine. We landed smack-dab in the middle of barbecue country.

Apartment Guide recently released their list of The Best Cities for Barbecue. As I read the article I was as anxious as if I had ordered a rack of mouthwatering baby back ribs slathered in tangy sauce.

Barbecue is an important part of the history and heritage of North Carolina. There is a division in the state almost as significant as the Mason Dixon Line – the divide between the red Lexington-style sauce of the west and the vinegar and pepper based sauce of the east. I was curious to see how North Carolina rated in the list of top barbecue locations.

Imagine my surprise to discover that Gary, Indiana, and Decatur, Illinois, ranked higher than any city in North or South Carolina. Furthermore, Gary and Decatur also ranked higher than Kansas City! Wow, that’s almost unbelievable.

For its study, Apartment Guide scoured the nation and found nearly 6,300 cities in the U.S. with at least one barbecue restaurant. It then calculated the percentage of barbecue establishments to the total number of restaurants in each of those towns to determine the cities with the highest ratio of BBQ restaurants.

Here’s a list of the top 10 cities:

1. Memphis TN
2. Minnetonka MN
3. Desoto TX
4. Decatur IL
5. Bowie MD
6. Decatur AL
7. Kansas City KS
8. Saint Cloud FL
9. Smyrna GA
10. Gary IN

No argument about Memphis. Not only does it have the highest ratio of barbecue restaurants in the nation, but it also has the third overall most barbecue joints behind only the much larger Houston and Chicago. There are 142 barbecue restaurants within the city limits, there's amazing pulled pork, ribs and dry rub around every corner. I’d also give them extra points for the blues – smoky Memphis blues and barbecue are a natural fit.

The highest ranking NC city is High Point, checking in at number 18. Rocky Mount earned a 26 rating. St. Louis or Austin?  They didn’t even make the list of top 50 cities.

I guess there is a difference between “best barbecue cities” and “cities with the best barbecue.” A key metric in the report is the number of barbecue restaurants as well as the per capita barbecue restaurants. You’ll have a hard time convincing me that Gary, Indiana, is a better barbecue city than Austin, Texas. If you are in Gary or Minnetonka, MN, though, it sounds like you’ll have a pretty good chance of finding a barbecue restaurant.

For the full listing and additional information, check out Apartment Guide Best Cities for Barbecue. Let the debate begin!

Photo Credit: davidstewartgets Flickr via Compfight cc

“Wine Country Table” Highlights Recipes, Regions And Agricultural Bounty Of California

Janet Fletcher explores recipes that celebrate California’s sustainable harvest

Janet Fletcher is the author or co-author of nearly 30 books on food an beverage. Her latest effort, Wine Country Table: With Recipes that Celebrate California’s Sustainable Harvest by Wine Institute, Rizzoli, 2019, is a delicious look at the wineries, recipes and agricultural bounty that makes California one of the world’s greatest gastronomic destinations.

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More than a cookbook, Wine Country Table includes fabulous photos by Robert Holmes and Sara Remington that bring the text and recipes to life. In addition to 50 recipes, the book features 23 profiles of wineries and farms that practice sustainable farming.

Napa Valley and Sonoma garner the bulk of international attention, but this book does a balanced job of covering wine regions that stretch the length and breadth of the Golden State. For the Inland Valley area, for example, Heringer Estates of Sacramento Valley and Lucas Winery of Lodi are profiled accompanied by sidebars on Couture Farms asparagus and Enzo Olive Oil Company. Among the recipes in the section are Breakfast Bruschetta, Kale Salad with Red Grapes, Walnuts, and Feta, and Chinese Chicken Soup.

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The style of the book invites you to wander through the pages with a glass of California wine. Each recipe has a wine pairing suggestion. The Gilroy Garlic and Potato Soup will pair perfectly with a glass of California Grenache, Carignane or GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blend. The arresting photo of the soup with a soft-yolk egg on top will have you grabbing a corkscrew and heading to the kitchen.

Wine Country Table is a great purchase for your wine-loving friends or your own coffee table. The list price of the book is $45 and is available on Amazon.

The book was produced in collaboration with Wine Institute, an advocacy group of nearly 1,000 California wineries and affiliated businesses. The organization’s website is a wealth of information about California wine and wine in general.

Jeff Runquist And The Quest For Authentic Excellence In Wine

Signature wines are fine, but exploration keeps you fresh and alive.

Deep Roots In Winemaking

Award-winning winemaker Jeff Runquist is on top of his game right now. Jeff Runquist Wines in Amador County was named winery of the year in an international competition and took the lion’s share of honors in the prestigious Critics Challenge and San Francisco Chronicle wine competitions.

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Although he focuses on a few select competitions, the accolades are telling. They are the result of years of trial and experience in the California wine industry. Runquist is an overnight success 37 years in the making.

He began in 1977 as an intern with Paul Masson while studying at UC Davis. Stints at Montevina in Amador County and Napa Valley Cooperative Winery followed. In 1990 he became winemaker at J. Lohr and soon got the itch to make his own wine. In 1997 he released 700 cases of Zinfandel under his own label.

“Jerry Lohr planted in Greenfield (in Monterey County) in the ‘70s,” recalls Runquist. “He was the only person who planted more than 250 vines who didn’t go bankrupt. Jerry was nimble. He took the rootstock and grafted to cooler climate varieties. You’ve got to have the right grapes for the right climate. If not, it’s like pushing water uphill.”

Being Nimble And Curious

Jeff Runquist Wines relies on 16 growers from different parts of Northern and Central California. It’s one reason he is able to be nimble and versatile.

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“I built the winery on a bare piece of ground,” says Runquist. “I didn’t have any vines and when I started I didn’t have two nickels to rub together.”

He didn’t want to risk the investment of planting a vineyard and instead looked to source his grapes. “I thought I’d focus on Zinfandel, but I was offered Sangiovese and Barbera,” Runquist said. The availability of an assortment of grape varieties plus his own curiosity resulted in a wide-ranging portfolio of wines.

Many a winemaker would have been satisfied to hang their hat on Zinfandel. Instead, Runquist uses up to 25 different varieties. “It’s like a chef,” Runquist explains, “you may have a signature dish, but don’t you get tired of it?” Working with the different grapes keeps him fresh, alive and inquisitive.

“I have the growers and enthusiasm,” said Runquist explaining the wide range of his limited-production wines. “I like to try things. Sometimes these are things we’ve tasted elsewhere, sometimes it’s a dare or a challenge.”

He explains it is part of his business model. If you want to learn about red wine, he says, you can join the JRW wine club and receive 12 or 24 bottles a year – each different. Indeed, the list of 2020 JRW releases includes rare gems like Teroldego, Charbono, Alicante Bouschet, Muscat Canelli, Dolcetto, Tannat, Graciano, and Touriga in addition to acclaimed Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Barbera. Some releases are less than 125 cases.

Grounded In The Foothills

He could have starred anywhere in California’s wine country, but Runquist chose Amador County in the Sierra Foothills. “This is where I grew up making wine,” he said. “It’s an interesting area. I’ve always felt most welcomed here and economically it works.”

Growing Zinfandel in the area can sometimes be a challenge, but the Barbera is magnificent. “I probably drink the most of Barbera,” Runquist said. “We also make some outstanding Dolcetto. It’s got more color and substance than any I’ve tasted.”

Amador County also provides varied microclimates that yield different nuances to the same grape. The Massoni Ranch Vineyard has a low elevation and its Zinfandel is supple with black fruit. The Nostro Vino Vineyard, on the other hand, is the last to warm up and is picked about a month later than Massoni Ranch. Cooler nights create more acidity and a balanced, darkly colored wine. All told, JRW produces five different Zinfandels plus a Primitivo.

The Dick Cooper Vineyard is famed for its Barbera. “We’ve made Barbera from six or seven other sources,” said Runquist, “Dick’s always has a little extra top note of lavender and violet that you don’t get at other vineyards.”

Runquist sees experimentation with different varieties in the future for Amador County. “The trend is to look for an alternative to Zin,” said Runquist. While the quality is outstanding for Zinfandel, Sangiovese, and Barbera, there has been little expansion in Zinfandel plantings and other red grapes, such as Rhone or Spanish varieties, are being explored. No one has yet found “the” white grape for the region.

Quality In The Glass

A sip of the 2018 Dick Cooper Vineyard Barbera neatly clarifies the excitement around Jeff Runquist Wines. It swaddles your palate with a velvety texture of ripe, red strawberries and raspberries. Toastiness and a touch of earth give a bottom end to the flowing, rounded wine. There are no harsh tannins to interfere with your enjoyment. That’s a theme with JRW.

The wines are all barrel-aged and there are subdued tannins that provide a unifying structure. While the wines can certainly age, they are drinking beautifully right now.

“Our goal is to create a rich, full-flavored wine,” said Runquist. “We try to pack in as much flavor as possible and keep the tannins to a minimum. We want a representation of the grape, not shoe leather, chalk or dust.”

Full disclosure: Wine was received as a marketing sample.

WIYG – We Answer The Age-Old Question: What’s In Your Glass?

WIYG? That’s a question we are often asked. Here’s a look at what we’re sipping.

Castel Grisch 2017 Merlot, Finger Lakes

Castel Grisch is one of the first wineries we visited in the Finger Lakes about a decade ago. It was founded in 1983 by a Swiss German couple and the building suggests a Swiss chalet. It’s got a great perch on the western shore of Lake Seneca and we like it as a spot to unwind without the pressing crowds of some of the larger tasting rooms.

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Riesling is the calling card of the Finger Lakes, but we were attracted to this Merlot. It’s juicy with nice minerality and a touch of mint. There’s a hint of oak and round notes of plums and berry.

Famille Perrin 2016 Côtes du Rhone Réserve

This wine wraps the best white Rhone grapes -- Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier -- into a refreshing blend. California may have its Rhone Rangers, but France’s Rhone Valley is the unrivaled home base for refreshing white blends like this. Pops of lime mingle with fresh floral aromas and a nice minerality.

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This is an example of a great winter white and is a great alternative for those looking for a different white wine. Adding to the delight, this wine can be purchased for under $10.

Hans Wirsching 2017 Silvaner, Franken

Silvaner may play second (or third) fiddle to Riesling in Germany, but in Franconia it has been making great wine for centuries. The Wirsching family has been making wine since the 1630s and Silvaner plays a key role in their estate vineyard. Silvaner has a full body, but less acidity that Riesling. This wine is golden in color with balanced acidity and peach and herbal notes. We savored it with a delicious meal of garlic teriyaki barramundi with caramelized leeks, smoked sausage and Tuscan sea sale. On the side we had citrus honey-glazed carrots. This is a VDP wine, a designation reserved for Germany’s top estate vineyards.

Full Disclosure: Some of this wine was received as a marketing sample.

The Many Faces Of Garnacha And Grenache

Whether you call it Grenache or Garnacha, the grape is one of the oldest and widest planted in the world. We uncork three bottles to explore this popular grape.

From Workhorse To Wonder

As one of the world’s most popular grapes, Garnacha can be found far and wide, from Europe to the US and South Africa to Australia. The largest concentration of vineyards are found in Spain (where it is called Garnacha) and France (where it is called Grenache).

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Displaying ripe, fruity and aromatic aromas, it is often blended with other grapes that have more tannins or color. GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blends are popular across the globe. Old-vine Grenache is highly prized for its concentrated flavors. Known at one time for inexpensive, high-alcohol wines or being used mainly in blends, today winemakers are crafting expressive and unique Grenache wines.

Garnacha/Grenache is actually a family of grapes that includes Red Grenache, White Grenache (Grenache Blanc), Grey Grenache, Alicante Bouschet (Garnacha Tintorera) and Hairy Grenache. I haven’t yet tasted Hairy Grenache, which is a mutation of Red Grenache that is resistant to drought.

Getting Into Garnacha

Outstanding examples of Grenache can be found in the southern Rhône Valley and the Roussillon region in France, Australia and Spain’s Priorat region. Grenache is a popular pick for rosé wines. We recently tasted through three enjoyable bottles.

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Château Rombeau 2015 Andréa Vielle Vignes, Côtes du Roussillon -- This is a funky White Grenache that is a delight. It is a blend of 31% White Grenache, 29% Grey Grenache, 14% Marsanne, 13% Malvoisie, and 13% Vermentino. We enjoyed this with a turkey dinner and the savory notes blended perfectly. There are grapefruit highlights and peppery touches. It’s a unique glass that shows how beautiful wines with White Grenache can be.

Paniza 2015 Última Garnacha, Cariñena -- This is a flavor-packed full-bodied wine with deep cherry flavors and chocolate and earth flavors. The finish is long and coating. Última is a limited edition, made from the last Garnacha grapes of the season, harvested in the highest parts of the vineyard. It will make you a Garnacha believer.

Viñas del Vero 2016 La Miranda Secastilla Garnacha, Somontano -- This wine comes from the Somantano region in northern Spain at the base of the Pyrenees Mountains. It is a blend that includes Syrah and Parraleta, a native Spanish grape. This wine has a full body with berry and plum flavors with an enjoyable earthiness.

Garnacha/Grenache is on the upswing. From 2014 to 2016, its market share has grown by 34% in terms of value. Since it’s yet to become a mainstream variety in the minds of American consumers you can easily grab a bottle for less than $25. There are many tasty options in the $15 range.

Call it Grenache or Garnacha, it’s just the wine to please your curiosity and appreciation for good wine.

Full disclosure: These wines were received as marketing samples.

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Perfecting Pinotage: South Africa’s Signature Red Wine

Pinotage is a South African original – a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. With the right crafting, the grapes produce deep, smoky delight.

In Search of A Heartier Pinot Noir

We can thank Professor Abraham Perold for the delectable Pinotage grape. The first professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University in South Africa, he sought to create a hearty grape with the qualities of Pinot Noir.

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Pinot Noir makes some of the world’s finest wines – but is notoriously hard to grow. Perold created a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir. Cinsault is a sturdy French grape used abundantly in Languedoc-Roussillon reds and rosé from Provence. Perold apparently planted four seeds from his new grape and then forgot about them. Luckily some colleagues later rescued the seedlings and the most robust was dubbed Pinotage. (In South Africa, Cinsault is called Hermitage.)

Today, Pinotage is one of the most widely planted grapes in the country and one of the “Big Six” of the South African wine industry. It is not susceptible to mildew and ripens early in the season, avoiding many pests and diseases that strike other late harvested grapes.

Our experience with Pinotage has been mixed. I’ve had some bad bottles of Pinotage, ones that had off-putting odors and flavors. Thankfully the story continues. When we visited South Africa, we were able to taste a wide range of Pinotage that was flavorful and elegant. We are now on the Pinotage bandwagon.

A Grilled Steak And A Big Red

We recently discovered four new South African Pinotage offerings. To taste Pinotage in style we fired up the grill and cooked an inch-and-a-half Porterhouse steak. I heated the grill to (almost) maximum in order to get a nice sear. After cooking each side for a couple of minutes I added a nice coating of olive oil and Tuscan sea salt to create a flavorful crust. A couple of other steaks joined “Big Daddy” on the grill.

Our choice for the Porterhouse was the 2016 Ashbourne Pinotage from Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. This is a limited production beauty, with just 224 cases produced. It is aged for 16 months in French oak and is enhanced with malolactic fermentation. This is a bold yet graceful wine, which is what we love about South African wines in general.

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There are notes of tea and earth while ripples of blackberry and dark cherry permeate the glass. A perfect pick to go with our hearty wine. Retail price is $57.99.

Following next was the 2017 Lievland Bushvine, a blend of 88% Pinotage, 9% Cinsault, and 3% Shiraz. The wine is made from unirrigated bush vines from the Paarl region producing small, concentrated berries.

This is a smooth wine with savory earth notes accented by black cherry and menthol touches. This is a modern style with pure drinking enjoyment and no off-key notes. The finish has a dash of vanilla. SRP is $18.99.

Two Other Pinotage Options

We can recommend two other Pinotage bottles for your enjoyment. The 2018 Southern Right Pinotage, Walker Bay, has complex berry notes with ample red fruit and earth. SRP is $32.99. A part of your purchase goes to help preserve the rare Southern Right whales.

The 2017 MAN Family Wines Pinotage is an affordable intro to Pinotage at $11.99. It is a soft wine that emphasizes the Pinot Noir characteristics of the wine. It’s from the Agter-Paarl area of South Africa.

If there is a mid-point between Old World and New World, South African wines are it. The classic French influence is strong, dating to the Huguenots settling in the Cape of Good Hope in 1688. Yet the wines themselves display the rich, ripe fruit that highlights New World winemaking.

Pinotage, after being overlooked for many years, is now being embraced and is earning top wine awards in South Africa. It’s a wonder that a wine springing from Pinot Noir and Cinsault can display much more power than its parent grapes.

Pop open a Pinotage and don’t forget the steak!

Full disclosure: These wines were received as a marketing sample.

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